I wouild
recommend a temperature controlelr soldering iron a little
hotter than normal (I use a #8 tip in my Weller TCP). A fine tip too. I
also find that dismantling the solder sucker and putting a smear of
vaseline (petroleum jelly) on the washer helps a lot. As I mentioend in
an earlier posting, a new, find nozzle on the sodler sucker helps a lot.
That's the same iron I use. Will try the trick with the jelly on the
The Weller TCP is very commonly used by serious enthuiasts, university
labs, small companies, etc over here. I find the stnadard #7 tip is
colder than I would like. I fit a #8 tip and find it much easier to use.
piston ring - good idea.
I find it helps a lot. Put a smear on the O-ring of the end cap if you
have one in your solder sucker, to imporve the seal there.
I would recomend taking the keyboard apart anyway
and inspecting these
disks. You can then see if any are likely to be 'active'.
Incredibly enough, the foam disks are just fine. None of them have
Sometiems they are :-)
Is the silvering OK. The visible (towards the PCB) side of the disk
assembly should look metalic, there's a conductinve layer on the top side
of that plastic disk (it increases the capacitance between the PCB tracks
when you press the key). I've sene keyboards where the foam looks fine,
but he silvering has vanaished. Obviously then the keys don't work.
decayed at all. Even with the circuit board lifted
clear of the plungers,
it's still complaining about no keyboard attached. Continuity between the
keyboard and the stereo phone plug is fine. I believe the edge connector
between the chassis and the motherboard is shot. Fortunately, all the
interconnects between the CRT housing and the motherboard connector are
ribbon cables, so it's at least feasible to cut the connector off and
crimp a new one on.
If you're unlucky the corrosion will have crept along the wires inside
the insulation and you;'ll have open-circuits in the cable? Hos is the
cable attached at the other end? Is it possible to replave the cable and
connector?
I have some olde-fashioned WD40 that doesn't gum
up at all. Just lubed
I am amazed... Be warned tha the 'gumming up' is not instant, it will
occur after days/weeks in my experience.
and cleaned the mechanism. The drive now loads slick
as anything and
spins for a second or two afterwards. I think that's autonomic behavior
from the drive PCB itself. The system doesn't seem to recognize that a
Yes, I thimnk it is.
I think this means the disk-inmseted sensort is working, and that you;re
using DD (not HD) disks. The latter have a hole in just the 'right' place
to avoid tripping the disk inserted sensor.
drive is attached, providing more ammunition for my
theory that the
motherboard connector is shot.
It's certianly worth checking...
-tony