30 Jul
2019
30 Jul
'19
1:17 p.m.
On 7/30/19 2:58 PM, Brent Hilpert via cctalk wrote:
On 2019-Jul-29, at 6:34 PM, Jim Brain via cctalk
wrote:
Read the manual as it has troubleshooting information and test points.
If you follow that it will bring you to the fault very quickly
I've not seen the switching converter fail but there are many parts of
the regulators that can.
Hint do yourself a favor and expand and print the schematic as at least
B if not D size. it will be easier to follow.
Allison
I have an ill NLS MS-230 Miniscope. Is there
anyone on list that might be interested in getting it running for me? I'm willing pay
for the privilege. I'd like to see the unit working, but I have no experience with
analog scopes, and I'd rather just entrust it to someone who can see it to success. I
did replace the batteries and let it charge for quite a while. The red LED lights up on
the front when on, but no sign of a trace, even when fed a known good 1kHz wave. The CRT
does not appear to be on.
Anyone a fan of these units and might be interested in taking a look?
It's tempting but I'm across the border and some shipping distance away.
Looking at the schematic (readily available online), it's fairly straightforward.
If you're willing to spend a little time on it, you could do the basics and check
for the power supply voltages as listed on the schematic.
The power supply is essentially 3 stages:
1) line -> charging circuit for the batteries,
2) batt -> +5 regulator,
3) +5 -> simple switching supply for +/-7V, +80V, +100V, -720V, 0.5V heater, 12V for
U11.
With nothing on the CRT (esp with the intensity turned full up), suspicion may fall
around the little switching supply.
A key point to note with 'scopes like this is the cathode/heater runs at high
negative voltage relative to GND, rather than the TV/monitor convention of the anode
running at high positive voltage. This is done so the amplifiers to drive the
electrostatic deflection plates can be be operated near GND level rather than having to
raise them way above GND.
So according to the schematic the heater (acting as cathode; either pin) should measure
-720V relative to GND and there should be 0.6V across the two heater pins.
U11 should have 12V across pins 14 & 7, but like the heater, it to is floating at
-720V below GND.