20 Nov
2014
20 Nov
'14
11:41 p.m.
I suggest you subscribe to the Greenkeys list. I don't know too much but a couple of
things to know are:
1. The rubber hammer perishes. Do *not* operate the machine without replacing it or you
will cause irreversible damage to the typewheel. There are two ways to do this. One is to
use some PVC tubing, the other is to ask on the Greenkeys list as someone has now
manufactured some completely new rubber hammers.
2. Make sure you grease and lubricate it before turning it on. Turn it over by hand first.
The manuals are available to tell you where to lubricate etc. I can supply copies if
necessary.
3. You will almost certainly need a current loop converter. I was lucky to find one on
eBay which works like a charm, I think there are others. The alternative is to make your
own. There are some designs knocking around that don't seem too complicated.
There are probably lots of other things, checking for excessive wear for example.
I love my Model 33, hearing that sound again is wonderful, it is definitely something
worth getting and looking after!
Regards
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of drlegendre .
Sent: 21 November 2014 06:53
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: What to look for in a Model 33 Teletype - a newb's buyer's guide?
I've gone off the Deep End and now I just have to re-have a Teletype model 33..
I feel awful about what became of the junker I bought for $15 when I was a 13
year-old and wish I still had it today, so I could fix it and put it to use.
So what should a mentally-challenged guy like myself be looking for, in a Model
33 - preferably an ASR model with the paper tape reader?
What does and doesn't go bad? Are there any serious game-changing, show-
stopping or buzz-killing issues that effectively render one of these units as a
parts donor? What differences exist between the various ASR-model units, as
they progress through the years? What does one look for
- and more importantly, what to avoid?
And one more - how do you differentiate a 20mA current-loop model from a
'standard' RS-232 model? Can you tell from the rear panel, or do you need to
go under the hood?