90% iso is fine.
I used to service marine gear. During that time I's get one that
had been dunked in the nastiest, saltwater. The procedure was
know to those that did that kind of service.
-First immerse in clean fresh water.
-Open unit to fully expose
-Then drain and repeat with fresh (not reused) water to get the salt out.
-After several rinses a bath in any Isopropanol to kill any bugs that
might
have been in the water. That also means runoff or other sources of
water.
It's critically important to get out salts as many are hydroscopic even
after
drying.
Generally for the last 30 years water and sometimes surfactants are the
common material for cleaning freshly assembled boards. It's also safer
and easiest to dispose of in a safe way.
Bake in an oven at 180F (warm but not hot) to drive out all water.
Replace any paper parts (speaker) or other items that may have been
affected by water and lubricate as needed (shafts, switches, pots).
If the unit hadn't been in the salt for more than a day full recovery was
common. Longer than that and you get electrolysis and parts literally
start falling off the boards.
Water is ok to a point. It should never be allowed to sit as corrosion
is the real problem. With boards and electronics that generally means
electrolytic corrosion as you have dissimilar metals and often the water
is not clean. Clean water is a poor conductor and less a problem so
cleaning with water is least damaging is it's is distilled. Also distilled
will not remain nonionic if the board is dirty, clean it first.
I've cleaned cruddy PDP-8 and PDP11 boards in the dishwasher.
I had a S100 crate that was so filthy I would never bring it in the
house until it got hosed off and initially scrubbed outdoors then
disassembled for a pass through a dish washer. Bake them dry
and they look factory new and have never given problems. I
recently got a ham transceiver that was owned by a smoker and
stored in a dusty dirty garage and ran that through the dish
washer (after removing the tubes, meters and fully opening it up)
after drying and lubricating the tuning mechanism it looks nearly
new save for scratches. When assembled and few known problems
repaired before washing it worked as it should. This was a tube
(valve) radio employing voltages like 150, 300 and 750 so any
conductive path (including dirt) is going to be a real issue.
Cleaning also cleared a few HV arcs that were caused by
the greasy dust when first tested.
NOTE: water is the least caustic and also the least damaging
cleaning material. Many solvents will damage plastics including
older IC encapsulents, plastic cased transistors as well as
adhesives to name a few. Also water (and maybe some mild soap)
will remove soot, dirt, dust, and possible fungal residues (molds).
Some parts like power transformers are a pain to wash but if water has
gotten to them then a rinse and thorough bake is always required.
Water is not the problem but how to deal with all the other things
that come with it or result from it laying in a puddle of dirty water.
Allison
Ben wrote:
N0body H0me wrote:
If you live someplace where there's
agricultural stuff going on, you
can probably get it from a place
that sells farming supplies (I get mine from a
local tractor dealership, for example). Call 'em
up on the phone and ask. . .
Do *NOT* use the stuff you get from the drug stores-- even the 90%
stuff, it still has too
much water for electronics use. The 100% iso
evaporates *completely* at room temprature.
The water content in the other stuff tends to linger. Not good.
What about the
99% stuff?