19 May
1999
19 May
'99
1:17 p.m.
Upon the date 07:32 PM 5/19/99 +0100, Tony Duell said something like:
I had no intentions to fix the thing myself. This is a "Mac-free Zone" ;)
If one of the list members does get the system from Paul then they should
save your msg to go by. If they want it fixed before Paul sends it to them,
they should contact me to let me know. His office is just into town. I have
to find just where the heck I put those Torx drivers when I moved my shop
back in March.
BTW, I've had even more experience, in years and number of units worked on,
than you probably have. You are younger than I and I started repairing
televisions back when I was around 15. 31 years. Jeez, that's been a while
now. I'm getting old I guess ;)
-- Chris
-- --
Christian Fandt, Electronic/Electrical Historian
Jamestown, NY USA cfandt(a)netsync.net
Member of Antique Wireless Association
URL: http://www.ggw.org/awa
So, I want to
let you Apple polishers (or "Mac-adamia Nuts" ;-) have a
chance at taking the system. The problem with the main box is probably
simple to fix using parts from another dead box. He says there is just a
spot on the screen about a quarter inch or so in size. The system seems to
act normally otherwise, just that he can't see anything on the screen.
Apparently to me, just the video sweep section on the CRT board failed.
This sounds like the most common Mac+ fault of them all... And it's very
easy to fix. You are working on the PSU/HV board, so you should be
careful, but the capacitors seem to discharge fairly quickly on
switch-off. Perhaps I should say that only people who understand
electronics, work on monitors anyway, etc should try this.
The most difficult part is removing the case. Unplug all the cables, take
off the battery cover, and undo the 5 Torx screws on the back. You'll
need the 'long' Torx driver for the 2 in the handle.
Now look at the vertically mounted PCB - the analogue board. Near the top
is the flyback transformer. And just back from that, near the top edge,
is a 4-pin conenctor that carries the wires going to the scanning yoke.
Take the cardboard cover. There will probably be at least one dry on the
pins of that connector or on the components near it. Resolder them. Check
for burnt pins on the connector as well.
Try again. Most likely the picture will come up. If all you get is a
vertical line, then suspect the 3.9uF reversable electrolytic near that
connector.
If it still doesn't work, get back to me. I know the standard analogue
board pretty well...