Have yuou
checked _all_ the electrolytics, even the low-value ones? On=20
both sides of the isolation barrier.
I've replaced all the electrolytics on
the LV side that I could see. I've
just noticed a 1uF 50V that I missed - I don't think I've got a 1uF 50V 1=
05
deg C in stock though.
I think any 1uF 50V (or higher) would do to prove the point :-).
Have you looked for a current sense=20
resistor that's gone high?
There is some visible heat damage around some
fusible resistors, but they
Sense resistors are not normally fusible (you don't want them going
open-circuit, all hell breaks loose when they do and the output current
tries to flow through the current sense transistor's BE junction).
checked out fine. There are two diodes in the vicinity
of the FRs that I
haven't checked yet. I really need to get this thing back on the bench fo=
r
testing.
This may mean they didn't actually design it,
but bought it in from=20
somebody like Astec who didn't supply schematics.
Looks like that's what
happened - the PSU bears the logo of a company cal=
led
Phihong.
Right. Never heard of them... Of course some companies then went and
reverse-engineereed the unit to put the info in their service manuals.
The Tandy M3 and M4 technical manuals contain what appear to be
reverse-engineered schematics of the Astec PSU boards. Well, they claim
to be PSU schematics, but actually could never have worked as drawn. I
speak from experience, having produced a more accurate (I hope)
reverse-engineered schematic.
What really annoys me is that they went to the trouble
of picking a plast=
ic
that would shatter when you removed the case screws. Needless to say, the
Actually, I object to self-stripping [1] screws going into plastic anyway.
[1] A much more accurate description than self-tapping :-)
-tony