At 11:33 AM 4/19/06 -0500, you wrote:
Joe wrote...
I just check it over and then power it up if I
don't see any obvious
problems. However Tony D advocates removing all the cards, building a
dummy
load and testing the power supply under load. I, for one, am not that
paranoid. YMMV.
HP's truly are built like tanks (speaking of the 2100A/S and
21MX M/E/F
line) - both electronically and mechanically. I don't worry about powering
them up as much as other brands of boxes. One caution - see my previous
email - do NOT power one up without checking out the inside of the
powersupply to remove the foam and replace it with new foam. If you don't,
your system may run fine once in a while for short durations. Keep it on for
a long time or expect real use out of it and you may be disappointed unless
you take that step.
That's interesting. I don't think I've seen a problem with the foam in
any of the 1000s that I have. Perhaps it's due to the difference in
climate. Still it's a good diea to check.
The one problem that I've had on several
1000s is that
after it's been run a while the EMI filter cap in the power supply blows.
I've had about three of them do this. At least two machines keep on
running
normally after it happend! The other I powered off instantly. This cap
blows after the machines where running anywhere from an hour to several
days.
Odd... I've had truckloads of 21MX's come through here (literally)
that I've
restored... none had this failure mode. Perhaps I was lucky, perhaps it's a
regional thing. Good to keep an eye out for I guess.
That (the EMI filters) seems to be the most common failure that I find.
I've had the same thing on several other computers. Perhaps it's due to the
heat and humidity here.
>> If you don't have the key, you
can carefuly pry it open. The latch is a
>> simple aluminium strap and it will bend easily. After you get it open you
>> can remove the strap and straighten it out and reuse it.
>Yikes... please don't do this. Metal only bends so many times.... but
>besides the metal fatigue issue, more important is that removing the strap
>that the latch connects to takes all of about 30 seconds. It is connected to
>a bolt on the left side of the machine that is accessed from the back of the
>left rackmount flange. Just undo the bolt, door opens and metal strap falls.
You're right about the screws, I had forgotten about that. Most of the
1000s that I find are still in the rack so I can't access the screws so I
have to pry the panel open. You should never have to do it more than once
so fatigue shouldn't be an issue.
BTW perhaps someone should collect all the info in these posts and
create a FAQ about the 1000s.
Joe