26 Mar
2015
26 Mar
'15
9:26 p.m.
On Thu, 26 Mar 2015, dave at 661.org wrote:
On Fri, 20 Mar 2015, drlegendre . wrote:
IMO SMD type tantalums are just way too temperamental for these
applications. They are very intolerant of ripple and can only safely be
used at a maximum of half of their rated voltage (according to the product
engineers at both Kemet and AVX).
I have some early 1990s equipment made up of 3 board stacks, and each of
the boards in each device are absolutely loaded with tons of SMD tantalum
capacitors. Each board has at least one SMD tantalum which is either
browning or has failed catastrophically (thankfully the damage to the pc
board substrate looks to be minimal). There is no particular pattern to
the failures either, parts of different capacitance and voltages with
different case sizes.
Rather than solid tantalum, Panasonic SP-Cap or similar aluminum polymer
capacitors are another possibility. These are available in the same SMD
case sizes as traditional solid tantalum parts. For that fact, you might
even be able to find OS-CON parts with the same SMD footprint as the
original SMD aluminum electrolytic parts, too.
For boards that originally used SMD aluminum electrolytic capacitors
though, why not just use new SMD aluminum electrolytic parts? I've been
doing this with good results in other equipment, including industrial
control boards that need to last at least 10+ years in the field. Newer
SMD aluminum electrolytic parts don't suffer from the problems the SMD
electrolytics made in the early to mid 1990s had with faulty rubber seals
(some of which was also due to the use of chlorinated cleaning chemicals
during the manufacture of the boards).
On Fri, Mar 20, 2015 at 6:03 PM, Chuck Guzis
<cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
Now for capacitor choice: would it be better to use surface-mount
tantalums or through-hole electrolytics surface-mounted? On 03/20/2015 02:08 PM, David Griffith wrote:
Would that be the cause of a flicker in the crt?
To me, it sounds as if there's an arc going on in the FBT. But that's
just from general knowledge--I have no experience with Mac SEs.
It's been a while, but as I said, those power connections can cause all
sorts of odd issues. Just carefully & completely re-flow them with some
SN63 material (if you have it, else SN60 will do) and know that it's
one issue you won't have to face.
IIRC, one unit with that problem had flicker, static in the speaker and
also system instability. It was either an SE/30 or a Plus, I had
several of each model at the time.