9 Apr
2011
9 Apr
'11
10:12 a.m.
On Fri, 8 Apr 2011, John Robertson wrote:
Most assuredly. Today has been set aside as "soak the boards" day.
Neutralization is one thing, but in my experience it does not in itself
remove the green crud.
Any advice for getting that off? I've seen advice to simply scrub with
hot water and detergent, which is probably as good as anything for areas
of the board covered with solder masking. However, I'm still in a quandry
as to removing it from conductive surfaces.
Steve
--
I have two
Lisa 2s in my possession that both exhibit serious corrision
from battery leakage. One is simply bad, the other is about the worst such
situation I've ever laid eyes on.
I was able to remove the battery packs to halt the degradation, but before
I make a bad situation worse I thought I'd ask for some advice on how to
proceed.
I'm also trying to work out what the units might be worth. The deal with
the seller is that I'm free to evaluate their condition and attempt to get
one working unit out of the two. Assuming a nominally functional Lisa 2
with functional 10MB ProFile and fair cosmetic condition, what do folks
think is a fair price for that unit (the owner wants whatever is left back,
functioning or not)?
Prices on eBay are really all over the map, so that's not of much help.
Steve
Depending on the type of rechargable battery used in your Lisa you should
consider doing something to avoid corrosion on the circuit boards. I wrote a
page on dealing with batteries for Pinballs and Jukeboxes, but the info
applies to anything that is battery powered.
http://flippers.com/battery.html
If the battery was Ni-Cad, then the stuff that leaked out was an alkalye
(base) and should be neutralized with a mild acid (white vinegar & h20 50/50)
then rinsed and dried thoroughly.
You really want to deal with this sooner, rather than later...