8 Jan
2006
8 Jan
'06
6:24 p.m.
Tony Duell wrote:
I have never had a glued repair that is as strong as
the original, and
since the mounts cracked ones, they could easily crack again. And a CRT
coming loose is not pleasant!
I suppose that would depends on what's being glued, and what the glue
is. I've had a pretty good expereince with JB Weld, which is a brand of
two-part epoxy. I haven't used other two-part epoxies, so I don't know
if JB Weld is unique.
Is it really that hard to drill a hole along the axis
of a cylinder? I
would have thought a 3-jaw self-centring chuck would have been accurate
enough for this sort of thing (I wouldn't bother trying to centre the
work in an indepenedant chuck). And drill with a twist drill in the
tailstock chuck.
Owning a lathe certainly opens up greater possibilities, However, I
don't own one, and I suspect most here don't either. I had some sort of
premade standoff in mind, and was thinking the problem would be getting
the old mount ground down flat enough.
So make tapered matal pilars. Make the base as wide as
posible (maybe even
wider than the original plastic pillars), and put a decent-sized washer
under the screw head on the otehr side. That should spread the load quite
well.
Tapered mounts will still require a lathe. Washers on the outside
change the look of the machine even further, and may not even fit
readily on the outside. Tapered mounts may not even fit well on the
inside. Remember the base of many mounts is molded into the sides of
the case via webbed supports. This saves space and strengthens the
mounts. I'm not saying a metal mount definitely won't work, but I am
saying the amount of work to overcome its potentially many short comings
is great. Especially since repairing the original won't change the look
of the machine, and should be a good repair if done right. I did like
your idea of putting a reinforcing cloth around the break.
Chad Fernandez
Michigan, USA