Hi
Beside the limeaway, also put the board in a bath of
vinegar ( white distilled ) and water ( 50-50 ) for about
20 minutes. The potassium hydroxide soaks into the fiberglass
boards and will pop out again. Vinegar is one of those
acids that forms a vapor and can get inside of things.
This is also good because it will eventually evaporate.
When mounting new NiCads, put them in a plastic bag and
run single strand insulated wires from the battery to the
board ( you noticed how it went right through multi-strand
wire ).
We have this same problem in pinball machines. Also
replace any sockets that might be suspect and any dip
switches that are near.
Dwight
From: "Joe R." <rigdonj(a)cfl.rr.com>
It's causes by the Potassium Hydroxide electrolyte leaking out of the
NiCads batteries. It forms a complex copper salt hence the greenish color.
I've found that full strength Lime-Away will dissolve it. Use the liquid
stuff, NOT THE GELL, put it on and leave it for a few minutes then brush it
off with an old toothbrush while rinsing it under water. Dry well. Next
time throw those old NiCads out and don't zap them to try and reuse them.
When they start to fail it's time to get rid of them. If you don't they'll
start leaking.
Joe
At 11:54 PM 7/6/04 +0100, you wrote:
Hiya all
I've a number of boards (old PC motherboards, VAXen bulkhead panels /
planars) where the NiCds have 'leaked', covering areas of PCB and
metalwork / screws with a greyish 'corrosion'. What is this, and how
does one clear the boards / metalwork to get rid of it and return to
nice & clean? On the VAX TOY batteries, the corrosion seems to have
followed one battery wire (black, -ve) to the molex connector,
corroding / coating that, and then spreading across the boards...
ta
greg