9 Jul
2006
9 Jul
'06
12:33 a.m.
Chuck Guzis wrote:
Thanks, Don! I think I'll try it when I screw up
the courage. What the
heck, if I mess things up, the result is the same--an unusuable piece of
equipment.
It's not rocket science. :> Bit, if you aren't the patient
type or are easily frustrated, don't try it! :<
Just remember that it *does* come apart so if things seem
like they need to be forced, you're doing something wrong!
My I/O is on the other end of the country so I can't take
photos to show you what each part is. But, if push comes
to shove, email me photos of where you're at and I can
point out which part is which, etc.
HTH,
--don
But I think you forgot a very important step:
"First, pour yourself a good stiff drink..."
Cheers,
Chuck
On 7/8/2006 at 8:56 PM Don Y wrote:
> Chuck Guzis wrote:
>> I know this is pretty far OT, but it might help someone with an I/O
>> Selectric too, so I'm posting it here.
>>
>> At any rate, I've got a very nice Selectric II typewriter with a broken
>> drive belt. I've got a replacement, but I'm very wary about taking
>> screwdrivers and whatnot to the mechanical marvel.
>>
>> Does anyone know how to do this who'd care to give me a step-by-step?
> I'd
>> hate to throw the thing out--it is/was a great machine.
> I'm not sure how this is done on a "Selectric II" -- I
> didn't know they made I/O's of the II.
>
> But, on the "regular" Selectric I/O, you remove the cover
> (obviously) and slide the carriage to the far right. This gives
> you access to the left dust cover (be careful not to mangle the
> tapes as you remove that!)
>
> On the left side (YOUR left) of the carriage there is a
> cover over the idler gear. Take it off. While you are there,
> loosen the 2 screws? that hold the bracket carrying the
> C1 contacts and the lower idler gear.
>
> Take off the selection switch assembly. Don't mangle any of
> the blades. Try to notice the positions of the screws that
> mount it (mark them) so you can get a headstart aligning it
> correctly when you reassemble. Use a piece of string/wire
> or rubber bands to hold it out of the way towards the front
> of the machine.
>
> Then, take out the two screws that hold the pusher cam follower
> onto the bottom of the machine.
>
> In the guts of the machine, you have to carefully take off
> the spring and pawl for the cycle clutch. Don't drop the
> spring! :> Or the little horseshoe clip that holds
> the pawl on its fulcrum.
>
> Now, you disembowel the machine :>
>
> First, take off the three screws that hold the cycle shaft
> in place (on the left side of the chassis). Carefully pry
> the plate from the frame of the machine. Slip the spring
> off the positive latch bail (this is the follower that rides
> on the positive cams).
>
> Push/pull the positive bail down and, while holding it there,
> remove the selectors from behind the bail. Now you need
> patience and/or a couple of extra arms...
>
> Push the -5 and rotate 2 links out of the way (hard to describe
> what/where they are... just watch for interference and THINK
> about how you can coerce these things out of the way).
> While doing this, slide the shaft out the left side of the
> frame. You don;t need to pull it all the way out. Just
> enough to get the drive belt off the shaft. Watch for any shims
> that might be there to hold the shaft aligned properly.
>
> To reassemble, just do everything backwards! :>
>
> This is not really a task to be tackled casually. You
> really need to THINK about each step as you are doing it
> so you don't bust anything. And, you want it all to fit back
> together with minimal amount of tweeking required.
>
> Avoid any of the cams that move the tapes since any little
> alteration there will affect printing.
>
> Good luck!
> :>