DEC RD53 Manual

Which should strictly be called an IR-blocking filter I think. After all a 'yellow filter' passes yellow and attenuates other colours, so a 'UV filter' should pass UV (only). :-) Sure. I keep a UV filter on any lenses that I am using. I can't afford to have them for all the odd lenses for even odder cameras that I've collected over the years. Yes, they;'re cheap, but not _that_ cheap :-) Thinking about it. I can see why those are about the only 2 filters you need. Colour correction can be done either in the camera ('white balance') or by processing the digital file. The effect of a cloured filter on B&W film can also be done by processign the digital file I would thinkg. And 'special effect filters' (aka 'image ruiners' :-)) can again be simulated by processing. And one great advantage of doing thati s you have the original unruined image too. But polarising filters make use of a property of the light (direction of the plane of polarisation) which is not recorded by the sensor, so the effect of such a filter cna't be simulated properly by manipulating the digital data. No, I meant flach_bulb_ sync. As in M and FP sync. Where the sync contacts close early to give the flashbulb time to ignite. I was bing somewhat tongue-in-cheek here in that while many of my older film cameras have such synchronisation settings, I don't think I've ever used them. Flashbulbs are very dififcult to get now, and of course each bulb only works once. I am told, though, they were used until quite recently for specialised applciations simply because you can get a much greaer amount of light from one than from a portable battery-powered gas discharge flash unit. I did mention the 'Blad with a digital back as a possible solution to this :-). I was thinking more along the lines of something the size of a normal 35mm SLR though. Particularly for the digital back :-) -tony