Tools (was: IBM 5155 analogue display fault

I would agree... I like the Facom combination spanners (ring (==box-end?) at one end, and a hooked open end at the other). They're effectively self-ratcheting and save a lot of time when working in a confined space. Don't be afraid to use 2 different tools to tighten (or loosen) a nut. E.g. a Facom open-end to get it fairly tight, then a ring spanner to get it fully done. The former is a lot better than a flat-at-a-time with a ring spanner :-) I've never found much use for those. The ends are so large they won't fit into the sort of space whrre a ratchet spanner would be useful. Facom (again) do some lovely spanners that are effectively ratchet rings that you can open to fit round a pipe, then clamp onto the union nut to loosen/tighten it. The only problem is that they are _very_ expensive. Very useful... Also : Those ring spanners with a gap in the ring to fit pipe unions (much nicer than using open-end spanners). Similar, but with a flange over one side of the fing so you can force the union nut in place. If you've ever tried to re-fit a Citroen hydraulic union in a confined space you'll know why I have a set :-) I've never needed the 3/8" drive sockets. Where I need more torque than can be applied with a1/4" drive, there's enough room for a 1/2" socket. On the other hand, a 3/8" drive (or adapter) is essential, many timing belt tensioners have a 3/8" hole in the plate which you use to untension or tension them. I've never nneded anything over 3/4" drive to work on a car. The largest torque wrench we have here has a 3/4" drive and goes up to 350lb.ft, so I guess that's strong enough :-) Don't forget the odd sizes. Very few UK spanner sets include 11/32", but I had to dash out and get an open-end spanner in that size to get the back panel off an HP9810 calculator. There are 2 nuts on T-bolts going into the side panels that you have to undo, and that's the only tool that will do it. Fortunately the local (good) tool shop had one in stock, but it wasn't exactly cheap... (but then again, I never mind spending money on good tools). I wonder what's considered to be a reasonable hand toolkit (i.e. not including test gear, soldering tools, etc) for classic computer repair. My starting list would be : Flat blade screwdrives from 0.8mm to 8mm tip width (at least Phillips from size 000 to 2 Pozidrive from size 0 to 2 Torx drivers T6 to T30 (prefereably both L-shapered and handled ones. There are some ball-ended Torx which are very useful if access is difficult) Tamperproof Torx from T10 to T30 Allen hex from 0.05" to 3/8" and 1.27mm to 8mm Ball-eneded Allen hex of roughly the same sizes Socket-set adapter + 'insert bits' for Allen and Torx are very useful if you need to use a torque wrench or similar. Nutdrivers and/or sockets from 1/8" to 1/2" and 3mm to 12mm Bristol spline keys :-) Small precsion pliers for wire-bending, etc Larger long-nose pliers Normal pliers Small slip-joint pliers (CK made/make a lovely pair about 4" long...) Side cutters, end cuters in at least 2 sizes of each (for PCB work and larger wiring) Tweezers. At least 2 pairs of non-magnetic ones. Many of the other tools in my toolbox are not really for computer repair -- things like a Jaxa watch case tool (but it fits the HP01...), a camera lens spanner wrench, valve remover/pin straightener. etc... -tony