24 Jun
2001
24 Jun
'01
11:35 a.m.
Sometimes it helps to remove other parts to be able
to get to the screws
more easily. If the screws holding a chassis to the
cabinet are stuck it
sometimes helps to remove all the PCBs, the CRT,
transformers, etc first,
if at all possible. This may seem like a lot of work,
but it isn't
normally that bad.
-tony
Thanks for your useful suggestions. In a way your last
suggestion is what I ended up doing. After trying some
of your other suggestions, and just before trying the
soldering iron, I took a chisel and whacked the
rectangular brass washer at the centerline of the
screw. It split, as brass is inclined to do, and with
a little prying and hitting I was able to remove it
from underneath the screw. The screw then turned
freely. Once the first screw was out I was able to
pivot the display unit around the other screw which
loosened it sufficiently to allow removal.
The new display works great, except that I'd like to
get a bit more vertical space -- I've got about 5" and
the spec says it should be 6.1". I've turned the
vertical potentiometer on the board up as far as it
will go. My maintenance manual says that the next step
is to move the deflection yoke toward the CRT.
However, the factory, apparently, fixed the yoke in
position filling the space between the top of the CRT
side of the yoke and the CRT with some sort of opaque
rubbery goop, which is still somewhat pliable. (In
fact, every setting on this display was glued into
place in some manner - I had to cut through some glue
just to rotate the vertical potentiometer). The
display that I removed also had the same goop on it.
It seems that if I spent an hour or two with an exacto
knife I could remove most of the goop. Anyone ever
done anything like this or have any suggestions? (Yes,
I know, keep away from that anode!)