Adding machine repair

Here is what I do; but you need to make up your own mind for your needs: As a first pass you could try cleaning solvent used on machinery (automotive) but I would only use fresh solvent and not stuff from a work shop (!). "Stoddard" solvent in the USA is a trade name for a "safer" cleaner with a higher flashpoint. Usually sold in 5 gal cans (Tractor Supply is one place). I haven't had problems with plastics but you will want to be careful and avoid that. Its mild on your skin, and it likes to be warm to work its best so I put it out in the sun for the day. Next would be Naptha - sold in gallon cans and any paint or hardware (lowes/HD) store. Its a mild but slighty oily solvent with a high flash point. Warm is good here. Really nasty stuff I use Spray cans of engine cleaner from the auto store; Gunk is a common brand. Its a solvent with a soap so that you can wash it off with water. It has discolored some case plastics. Simple green is perhaps the safest/cheapest/easiest, and you spray it into tight places, or use it to soak, works well in warm to hot water. Hot water is good to rinse with too as it will dry faster. You have to be able to deal with flash rusting during the drying so the faster you can do that the better. An air blow gun is useful. Orange degreaser works better, its a bit more harsh. Industrial degreasers (purple) are too harsh and discolor metal. I will confess to using a pressure washer and simple green on cabinets, doors, and computer gear including large fixed head disks. Oh and cables. But these were stored in a barn and were used as a restroom by cats, racoons and woodchucks... I would follow all of these up with a spray bath of Electronics parts cleaner - you can get spray cans of this at Electrical supply places, or HD/lowes. put what ever you are cleaning over a pan or sawhorses so the wash can run off the part being cleaned and carry away dirt and oil. Be very careful with this on plastics, especially the typical urethane cases on monitors, computers, etc of the 80s and 90s. This bath should wash away anything left by the solvents and you will then need to oil and lube everything. At this point, any unpainted/unplated steel parts will be vulnerable to rusting so you need to think about how to keep things dry or spray on a fog of some kind of oil. WD-40 is ok for that - i also use it as a solvent/cleaner to wash gum and dirt out of moving parts, but not as a lube. LPS has some better products for inhibiting rust too. I have been using "Super Grease" on my electro/mechanical stuff for the past 10 years with good results. Its a synthetic, food safe, semi clear. HD/Lowes has it in tubes and 1lb can. Its online too, and ebay stores. I stay away from white grease these days but it was typical in the 60s thru 80s. The bicycle folks have some great oils, drip-less and synthetic (wont oxidize and gel into goo with age). Or use good old 3-in-one oil. 3inone is pretty light, some things like larger electrical motors need a bit heaver oil like 30W motor oil . There might be specs on the motor for this, or the documents. In my case I usually have to guess; small light weight gets 3in1, if it weighs over a pound... 30w. Bob.