13 Apr
2001
13 Apr
'01
6 p.m.
If you want good key action, check out the old XT and AT/ PS/2 REAL IBM
keyboards for the keyswitches :)
At 06:03 AM 4/13/01 -0700, you wrote:
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Erlacher <edick(a)idcomm.com>
To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 11:12 PM
Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
something
that
and
As far as looking for key switches, for
functionality, I rather liked
Sellam's
suggestion implying that an old PC Keyboard (not
a rarity) might provide
sufficient switches.
That's a great idea. I have a few dead ones in
the boneyard. Might as well tear into one and see
if it can be salvaged.
I'm going to have to learn to desolder I guess. :)
Don't know how I got this far in electronics hobby
building and never had to do any serious parts
removal.
Moreover, with a good software package and a hi-res
printer, you could make key legends that you can
rubber-cement to the
keycaps
and paint over with clear laquer. If you
don't mind that they're less
durable,
you can even use the (clear vinyl, not
"magic") scotch tape to keep from
rubbing
off the legends. The caps come off the keytops,
and if you are careful
you can
do this so it looks good and works very well.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Archer" <dogbert(a)mindless.com>
To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
>
>
> Richard Erlacher wrote:
>
> > Look "good" ... ??? ... Depends on your preferences, I guess.
> >
> > A big part of the question of HOW to go about fixing this is to answer
the
>
question of whether your goal is to restore the KIM-1 to its original
condition
> > for historical authenticity or whether you'd just as soon have
that
opportunity
> came up.
>
> My main interest in the KIM and other really simple machines is as a
> hands-on demo of what being a computerist was like in the early days
> of microcomputers, before the keyboard, box, and monitor
> paradigm took hold. Extra points for toggle switches too. :)
>
> I've seen interest in the thing from visitors who are
> into computers, and so far all were less "what a quaint but completely
> prehistoric piece of junk" than "wow, I can't believe a machine with
> 1/1000th the CPU speed and 1/64,000th the memory can play
> Hunt the Wumpus and other games and they're even a little fun." :)
> It's a tribute to doing an amazing amount with what by modern standards
> seems preposterously little, and I think preserving this realization is
part
works
well instead.
Operational is the main thing, but I'd be thrilled to restore it if the > of what being "into" classic
computers can be about.
>
>
>
> > If the former is your goal, then you've a lot of hunting to
> > do, but may eventually find out how to modify some other product to
fit
the
> > application. On the other hand, there
are lots of available keypads,
or, if
you
> > prefer, lots of available individual keyswitches with
removable/clear-capped
> > tops, that you can build a really
decent and servicable keypad that
you can
>
attach to the auxilliary connector in order to substitute it for the
original
> > without having first to remove the existing keypad. It seems to me they
> > should work quite well in parallel.
>
> Okay. I try the regular electronics outlets. I'll try specifically
keyboard
> manufacturers (ALPs, Cherry, etc. I guess)
and see what I can dig up.
>
> >
> >
> > I don't know that Commodore actually fabricated the keypads
themselves, and,
in
> > fact, rather doubt it, so it's likely someone, somewhere, will have
used a
> > similar keypad, or, at least, similar
switches, so that will provide
you
with
> > amusement at swapmeets and junk sales. Moreover, if you haven't yet
looked
at
> > third-party switch catalogs, I'd certainly recommend that so you can
explore
> > replacing the keypad with a possibly
more durable and/or convenient,
yet
> > cosmetically similar keypad.
> >
> > This will require some serious head-scratching.
> >
> > Dick
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ross Archer" <dogbert(a)mindless.com>
> > To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 1:17 AM
> > Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
> >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Ethan Dicks <ethan_dicks(a)yahoo.com>
> > > To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 1:21 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > --- Richard Erlacher <edick(a)idcomm.com> wrote:
> > > > > It's pretty hard to tell whether it's the keypad or the
circuit
that's
> > > > > malfunctioning. How did
you determine it's the keypad itself?
> > > >
> > > > Looking at the schematic, it appears to be a simple matrix. Short
a
> >
particular
> > > X and Y line for the questionable key. If it "strikes",
it's the
keypad.
> > > > If it still flakes out, it could be a component or trace.
> > > >
> > >
> > > Right. It's a 3 x 7 array with 2 keys wired to a 556 for ST (step)
> > > RS (reset).
> > >
> > > I've already tested the broken keys via the edge connector, and
they're
> > > > working fine. Not that there was too much doubt, as the buttons
> > > > involved are either caved in or "feel like they're not
connecting
> > > > with anything". So a 3x7 + 2 switch setup should do the trick,
> > > > but what would look good.
> > > >
> > > > > -ethan
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > =====
> > > > > Even though my old e-mail address is no longer going to
> > > > > vanish, please note my new public address: erd(a)iname.com
> > > > >
> > > > > The original webpage address is still going away. The
> > > > > permanent home is: http://penguincentral.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > See http://ohio.voyager.net/ for details.
> > > > >
> > > > > __________________________________________________
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> >
> >
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