I have an Amiga keyboard (pcb says A3000) where the four
keys 1, q, a and z doesn't work. The rest of the keyboard
functions well.
This happened after a longer period where I didn't use the keyboard.
Does anybody have any ideas of things to check out to try
to get this working again?
Most keyboards I know of one exception [1]) have the keyswithcs arranged
in a rectangualr matrix. The 'column' lines are scanned (each one is
driven in turn), and the row lines are tested by the keyboard cotnrolelr
to see if any swithces are closed
[1] The kleyboard for the hP9816.
In gneral,. individual keys that have failed mean a problem with those
swithces. A comlete row or column of the matrixx not working oftne
indicates a problem with the logic circuitry associateds with that row or
column.
Now 4 rows is rather too few (8 is more common), so perhaps an eitrie
column isn't missning. but of course you don't have to ahve a swithc at
every possiton. Perhaps the matrix is electrically 16*8, giving places for
128 keys, but only, say 101 are used. That could result in a column with
only 4 switches in it.
Needless t osay a schematic, including a matrix layout, is very useufl,
but I assume you don't ahve one, and have no chance of getting it.
Do you know how thw keyboard works mechanically, If there are individual
keyswitchs solder to the PCB, you can use an ohmmeter to test each switch
and see if it closes in the obviosu way. You can also trace the PCB
tracks between the switchs and back to the control electronics to see if
there are any breaks. If you can identify what drives the columns (it may
an putput poert on a microcontrolelr, or a separate TTL decoder IC to
save pins on the microcontrolelr), you can see if each column is being
driven using a 'scope or logic analyuser.
If it's a membrane keyboard, identfuable by flexible plastic 'tails' with
conductive traces on them plugged into sockets on the control pCB, then
first make sure those are seated properly. Some mambrane assemblies are
held together by lots of small screws, others are heat-staked. If the
former, you could caefully take it apart (make a diagram of where the keys
go, jsut in case things come loose), and inspect the membrane sheets.
Maybe the defective keys need cleaning, maybe there's a break in one of
the traces (the _condcutive_ silver paint sold for repairing traces, etc
is useful for reparing this.
If it's a Keytronics capacitive unit, identified by the PCB under hte
keys with apparanetly nothing soldered to it in that area, remove the PCB by
taking out all the scresws. You can now inspect the foam/mylar pad
assemblies. Perhaps you have some decayed foma, or the meralisation ahs
disappearsd from the faulty keys.
-tony