So, it looks like I have a lot less to do with this
machine than
I thought. I do want to convert the unit back to NTSC and I
have not tested the serial or cassette ports though.
Since the machine is basically working, it shouldn't be too hard to sort
out any problems with these interfaces. You have enough oerking to be
able to write values ot the interface ports and see what happens...
Anyway, I'm going to do some cosmetics next. The keyboard is
filthy, so a disassembly and wash is in order. Next, most of the
If you remove the keycaps (and IIRC they just pull off), make a diagram
before you start. So you don't have to send out the sort of message I
sent out once when restoring an HO9185 (the keys on that fall out when
you remove the PCB...) -- 'Can somebody please tell be the order of the
keys in the first 2 rows of the keybard'. :-)
I normally use graph paper for this. I draw the key positions
approximsately using either 1cm or 1/2" squares for each normal-size
key.. 'Aproximately' means I tesnd offset the rows of the QWERTY section
by hald a key width for each row, rather htan the exact ammount. It's
clear enough. And then I writei n each 'box' on hthe graph paper the
markings on the key. After I've completed the cleaning, I file that sheet
in the service manual for the machine for next time I have to do a repair.
perforated metal ventilation panels have fallen out.
I have them
all. It looks like they were glued in place with hot-melt glue.
Is that how they were originally attached?
I can't remember,but the reason I am replying here is that I have an
intense distrust of glues. If it were my machine, I would drill small
holes and use nuts and bols (M3 over here, I guess 4-40 is about right
too) to hold the grilles in place. It may not be originial, but I am not
running a museum, I run the machines :-). And I don't want metal objects
floating around inside...
-tony