24 Oct
2011
24 Oct
'11
2:26 p.m.
In the case of
your HP250, even thoguh you are not running it it could
still be an implosion risk without the correctl-bonded faceplate.
Hmm, I wonder if it's worth worrying about - I suspect that the chance is
so small that other threats are far more likely, but still... I
don't know how the faceplates are/were normally stuck in place at
assembly - did they apply bonding compound to the front of the CRT and then
press the plate into it, or did they suspend the plate in front of the CRT,
seal around the edges, then pour/inject the bonding compound into the
resulting gap?
ALmost certialy they applied the bonding stuff to one of the parts (which
one I can't say) and then put them together.
I'm liking Chuck's window film suggestion more and more, because even if it
can be done without trapping air, there's no guarantee that whatever
So do I. And I think it would be safe. My father worked on high vacuum
systems for many years and he says that putting ordinary sticky tpe on
the outside will support the glass sufficiently to prevent a violent
implosion. It's prevent the bits flyign too far. Obviosuly you don't want
a CRT screen covered with sellotape, but I would guess this window film
would be enough.
substance is used won't deteriorate 5 or 10 years
down the line - and I'd
rather not chance whatever modern bonding stuff was used being even more
difficult to remove than the original.
Good point. There appear to be some nice UV-curing adhesives used for
assmebling lens elements, but unlike the old Canada Balsam, they're
impossible to shift. I don't think I'd want to have my CRT reassembled in
a way that I couldn't fix it again if need be.
-tony