At 8:49 PM +0000 10/29/09, Tony Duell wrote:
I didn't, the minilab did :-)
I took them with an ancient 35mm SLR. The minilab who processed the films
offered to put them on CD-ROM for a little (very little) extra money. And
Here in the US, Costco does a great job in 1 hour and the CD's are
far less than it would cost me in time to the scans myself.
I tend to go to Jrssops (large UK camera shop chain). They do a 30 minute
service (for not much more than the 1 hour service) amd will burn the CD.
It costs \pounds 1 oe 2 for that IIRC. Not much.
Of course I get the negatives, so if I want to make high-tesoultion
scans, I can.
The resolution on the film negatives is
considerably higher than said
scans, but IMHO they were good enough to upload. And of course I have the
negatives if I want to make any larger prints.
Look around, different places scan at different resolutions and
charge different prices. The place I had develop a roll of B&W and
Oh, I am sure there are professional labs that will scan to a much higher
resuloution.
Most of these picures were originally taken to illustrate talks I gave to
HPCC. And the resolution was high enough for that.
I'll stick
to my good old mechnaical Leicas. The later one actually
contains electrical components (the flash sync contacts), the older one
has nothing electrical _at all_.
The biggest advantage to your old mechanical Leica's is that your
50mm Leica lens is a 50mm. On the Micro 4/3rds it would basically be
Err, a 50mm lens is a 50mm lens no matter what you put hehind it :-). The
fact that a 50mm lens is a 'portrait' lens on my Olympus Pen FT doesn't
change the fact that it's still a 50mm lens.
And let's not start the myth that focal length affects perspective...
a 100mm telephoto. I'd like a Leica and am torn
between the M6 or M7
as I like a built in light meter on my 35mm cameras.
I was lucky. I bought a Leica III (not an M3, a 1933 screw-mount thing)
in a local camera shop for a very good price because they said it was
totally jammed. After getting it home, I took off the top cover around
the shutter speed mechanism, removed the second curtain latch, cleaned
it up and put 1 drop of oil on it. Works fine, although sometime I should
strip down the slow-speed escapement (it's sticking a bit). And then the
same shop offered me a jammed M2, which I also bought. After buying the
right ring wrenches, I took that apart too and have got it going,
although the shutter tapers at high speeds. Again, I need to do more work
on it.
-tony