12 Feb
2014
12 Feb
'14
10:36 p.m.
Hi Tony,
Essentially that's what us keyboard geeks call the bolt-mod. Which is a
bit of a misnomer since I haven't actually seen anyone use bolts yet...
I do a screw mod, which is basically the same except I use flat headed
screws coming in from the steel plate side, and no nuts.
I like the spring trick you mentioned, but the only issue I take with
that is the potential to distort the spring if not done carefully. I use
scotch tape to remove all the spring/hammer assemblies row by row, which
also makes re-installing them very simple.
I made a time lapse video of the reconditioning process, and the tape
trick is at 3:43.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JkO35gsIB8
On 02/12/2014 05:02 PM, Tony Duell wrote:
Yup! The shift
keys, enter, and backspace can be rather troublesome. A
good first troubleshooting step is to check if you have some broken
rivets in that area, which is very likely considering the age. If that's
What
is yuor cure fro broekn het-stakes (rivets)? I had to tkae my Type M
totally apert, separatign al lthe pasltic parts and the 3 sheets of
membrane. I then drilled out all the fixing posts and tapped them M2.5.
Put M2.5 screws in from the top, put it back toether, then put M2.5 nuts
on the bottom to hold it. Probably stronger than the original.
Incidentally, if yo do take the thing completely apart, I have found you
can drop the flaps in, then hook the spring over the side of the key
'towor'. This will hold the flaps in place (and prvent them from jumping out
of their 'bearings') while yuo refit the membrane and the metal base plate.
-tony