I agree on both points, but if the cable is not longer than a foot or so,
it's likely to work fine. Certainly it's likely that one could figure out a
better way, on a case-by-case basis, but I just wanted to throw a very
general solution at the problem, one which everyone would easily understand.
It won't be hard to improve on that one.
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Duell <ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk>
To: Discussion re-collecting of classic computers
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: EPROM issues, who can burn?
>
> I agree, mostly, with what you've said here, Tony. The easy fix, in many
> cases will be to program the code into several larger but readily
available
> and easily programmed parts, then wire an adapter
from the target board's
> socket to the physical EPROM on the board on which the EPROM resides,
with a
> pair of appropriately sized IDC ribbon cable
headers crimped on the ends
of
the cable.
That should work, even if you have to hang the adapter board
I'd be a little careful about hanging lengths of ribbon cable off an
EPROM socket (the signals on which may well not be buffered). I am not
saying it won't work -- many times it will, but I'd not do it unless
necessary.
Many times there's enough space around the EPROM socket and/or between
the boards in the cardcage to allow for a simpler replacement method. The
fact that most EPROM pinouts are similar helps here. Tricks include :
1) Bending out those pins of the EPROM that are different (high-order
address lines, for example), plugging the rest into the socket and
soldering wires to the ones you've bent out
2) Replacing the socket on the board with a wire-wrap socket. Wrap wires
around the pins that are different, and cut those pins short. Then solder
the remaining pins to the board so that the 'different' ones don't touch
the tracks (the socket is probably about 0.5" above the board). Solder
the ends of the wires to appropriate points. Insert the EPROM.
3) Make an adapter. In the UK you can get pin strips designed to plug
into turned pin IC sockets. What I normally do is replace the EPROM
socket on the PCB with a turned-pin one of the same size. Then take a
piece of stripboard and solder a socket for the new EPROM to it (cutting
the tracks down the middle). Then solder pin strips to the track-side of
the stripboard with one spare hole between the socket pins and the pin
strips. Then cut tracks for the pins you don't want to connect straight,
and then solder wires (wire-wrap wire is good for this) on the track side
of the stripboard to make the necessary connections. Plug the adapter
into the socket on the PCB and plug the EPROM into the socket on the
adapter.
4) Ditto, but etch a PCB rather than using stripboard.
5) Read the tech manual for the machine (!). It's not uncommon for
machines that use mask-programmed ROMs to have some way of using EPROMs
instead. There may be links for this on the board, for example.
> from a hanger in the rack. Packaging problems are what the REAL
engineers
> work hardest at, while the youngsters conjure up
the fancy circuits.
This
> is mostly a packaging problem. The higher speeds
of today's common and
> cheap parts will compensate for the few nanoseconds lost in cables, even
if
some form of
termination has to be introduced.
I'd be more worried about the stray capacitance and noise pickup from the
ribbon cable than the delay it introduces.
-tony