As an alternative to the hot wire approach, I placed my moldy PDP-12 CRT+faceplate
into a tub of PROSOCO Dicone NC9 "silicone sealand & adhesive remover."
After about a week, the silicone seal had separated and was easily removed.
I'm not sure how best to remount the CRT with the glass faceplate and metal
surrounding rim
without reapplying a RTV/PVA layer and re-bonding it all with silicone again.
- Robert
p.s. If you're in the Bay Area: there's a gallon jug of leftover Dicone NC9 for
the asking.
On Oct 20, 2011, at 7:34 AM, cctech-request at
classiccmp.org wrote:
Message: 25
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 08:28:56 +0100
From: "Rod Smallwood" <rodsmallwood at btconnect.com>
To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic Posts Only'"
<cctech at classiccmp.org>
Subject: RE: HP screen screen rot
Message-ID: <AA472F3C2B81454EAD4B734855D4D4EE at dorsetsweets.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I have fixed a few Rainbow monitors suffering from screen mould.
It may be crude but I just removed the outer glass by breaking it into parts
and then peeled off the offending plastic layer.
The tube then goes back into the case and you end up with a narrow gap
between the bezel and the tube.
If you are not used to working with glass and CRT's then this way is not for
you
Regards
Rod Smallwood
--- On Mon, 10/17/11, Al Kossow <aek at bitsavers.org> wrote:
From: Al Kossow <aek at bitsavers.org>
Subject: Re: HP screen screen rot
To: cctalk at
classiccmp.org
Date: Monday, October 17, 2011, 8:33 PM
On 10/17/11 5:06 PM, Ian King wrote:
Hello all,
Does anyone have specific experience with addressing
this problem on this machine?
The procedure is removal of the RTV between the safety
glass and CRT separating the two by
cutting through the RTV with a hot wire, then reattachment
at the corners.
There are some examples on the web.