17 Nov
2003
17 Nov
'03
6:42 p.m.
On Nov 17, 22:01, Ian Primus wrote:
How do I get the side panel off the Digital rack? They
seem to come
off, and one is loose. I am wanting to remove it, and reattach it so
that it won't rattle. Also, the top panels are a little crooked. I
have
tried to look for how the thing is put together, but
it's hard for
me
to tell, being unfamiliar with racks. What is the
trick to removing
those panels?
There are two or three types. One has panels that pop on using springy
metal fasteners, one has sides that lift up slightly then pull off,
similar to (but not the same as) the taller racks.
What are the preferred types of screws to use for
mounting things in
racks? One of my racks has threaded holes, but the Digital one
doesn't.
Should I just go to the hardware store and get some
1/4-20 nuts and
bolts, or is there a recommended or standard size? Also, what is the
threading on racks with threaded holes? Is this a standard size bolt?
Normally, on those racks, you use clip-on Tinnerman nuts, with 10-32
screws. Some devices use a metal strip with tapped holes to take 10-32
screws. A Tinnerman nut is basically a folded piece of springy sheet
metal with a nut welded onto the back, so that it clips onto the
vertical rail and holds the nut captive and aligned with the hole in
the rail.
Also, I have a Fujitsu Eagle, which, aside from being
very heavy,
also
needs a new set of rails. It has some rails already,
but I don't have
the mating ones to put in the rack. Do most devices take standard
rails, or are there peculiarities to some drives? Will a normal set
of
rails handle a 150 pound hard drive, or do I need
something a bit
more
robust?
Pity you haven't got the original rails, they're really high quality.
Eagle rails are heavier-duty than most, but any really HD rail will be
fine, providing the holes fit.
Does it matter what order I put the hardware into the
rack? I
wouldn't
think that it would, but I'm worried about heat.
Within reason, it doesn't matter. I'd leave a gap above the Eagle. In
case you didn't already know, the rack is measured in "U" (units of
1_3/4"). 3U is 5_1/4". If you look closely you'll see the holes are
not evenly spaced, but in groups of three. The centres of the outer
holes of a 1U space are 5/8" distant from the centre of the middle hole
(and distance from centre of outer hole of one U to centre of outer
hole of the adjacent U is 1/2" ).
On a related note, how should I plug all this stuff
in? I'll have at
least three power cords, one for the computer, one for the Eagle and
one for the tape drive, then there will likely be another drive or
two.
What should I plug these into? Will a heavy duty power
strip handle
the
load, or should I split it up? What about a single
circuit? From what
I
have read, an 11/73 shouldn't draw that much
juice, the only thing I
worry about is how much current the drives need. I'd still imagine
that
a regular household 15 amp line should do it though.
15A should be plenty. I can't remember what an Eagle draws, but my
11/73 system draws less than 4A at 230V, but it has two smaler drives,
not an Eagle. The normal way to wire them up is with a power
controller in the bottom of the rack, at the back. A power controller
is basically a power strip with two sets of sockets (one always on, one
set controlled), a 2-pole (3-pole if for 3-phase) circuit breaker (not
just a switch), and a relay/contacter and associated electronics. A
3-position switch lets you turn the contactor to ON, OFF, or REMOTE,
and there are two or three 3-pin AMP Mate-N-Lock sockets for remote
connections (you can wire the BA11-x switches to turn the contactor on
and off).
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York