On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 10:20:10 -0800
"vrs" <vrs at msn.com> wrote:
From: "Guy Sotomayor" <ggs at
shiresoft.com>
On Thu, 2005-03-17 at 11:00 -0500, Ashley Carder
wrote:
I do not own a variac, so I will need to get one
of these to
properly reform the TU56 capacitors. I see several different
varieties on eBay. What would I need exactly?
If I'm not mistaken the whole reforming capacitors discussion was
for electrolitic capacitors (ie DC). The motor run capacitors are
AC. I'm not sure the reforming process would be the same (or if it
is even possible).
Anyone want to comment?
I thought the basic structure of the AC electrolytics was that of two
matched DC electrolytics wired in series. If this is true, then I
suppose a current limited AC supply might be able to reform them?
Vince
I doubt if a motor capacitor is made up out of a back-to-back
electrolytic pair. Usually, motor capacitors are some form of 'oil
filled' capacitor or modern variant, and are non-polarized. Usually not
of a high enough value to need to be an electrolytic design.
I have the 'perfect instrument' for testing and restoring capacitors.
It's a US Navy LCR bridge that has built in charging power supply. So
you can install a capacitor onto the 'unknown' terminals, charge it up
to as high as 400 volts DC, while measuring the leakage current. You
can then measure it's capacitance and quality while charged to said
voltage. It's intended for tube-era parts, but will work fine for lower
voltages. The best device to check out and 'form up' electrolytics of
lower voltages (IMHO) is a regular constant-voltage/constant-current
bench supply. You set it up to the working voltage for the capacitor,
then turn the current limiting very low and attach the capacitor. If
the capacitor is 'good' it should charge up to the supplie's set voltage
and stop drawing current. If it draws current for awhile, you're not
going to 'rush' current into it and cause damage.
Important to remember when charging capacitors up is that they then have
a fairly high 'instantaneous' current capability. If you charge, for
instance, a 4700 uF capacitor up to 40 volts, care should be taken not
to short it out. Discharge it slowly through a resistance, say 10K ohms
or so. You might 'melt' whatever shorting item you use if you just
crowbar it, and the hot metal can burn. Fooling around in the lab, we
used to hang big 'computer grade' capacitors (I had a 470,000 uF one)
across regular 'low current' bench supplies to 'arc weld.' You can melt
copper wire with a part like that 'trickle' charging up to 40 volts on
an ordinary supply.
-Scott