Josh Dersch said:
Just picked up an RL02 for a song. It's a bit
beat up looking, but it
seems pretty clean inside, so far.
Glad it was for a song, and not for money! ;)
It's kind of a moot point at the moment, since I
have no disk packs,
cabling, or interface boards (so I can't use the darned thing until I
complete a scavenger hunt...) but I'm wondering what I should check out
on this machine before I power it on & (eventually) start using it...
Having been through four RL01 in the past 12 months, I might have
something to offer. By no means am I the RL0x drive expert, but
here goes...
For me, the very first thing that is done (after the exterior cleaning,
of course) is the reform the capacitors. These RL0x drives have
two capacitors of interest: a 66,000 uF 30V, and a 22,000 uF 40V.
I suppose it happens all the time, but I don't like to power up
anything until I've removed the capacitors and put them through
the reform(ul?)ation regime.
Don't want to be too pedantic, but here are the steps I took:
- remove the service cover (4 screws), then cartridge door/cover.
- clean the interior as required (vacuum, Windex)
- lift the DC servo PCB, make a note of the connections, disconnect
the power connector
- carefully lift and rotate the box above the head actuator to get
access underneath
- disconnect gounding wires to lugs on I/O PCB in service cover, and
the inside of the rear chassis. You may find another wire to the head
actuator 'box', too.
- remove the four screws on the rear panel to remove the power
supply (the whole rear chassis panel). Be careful as you loosen
screws since the rear panel is top heavy and my tilt out when you
least expect it.
- Now you have full access to the PS and can disconnect and reform
the caps.
While the caps are reforming, here are a few other things you should
consider:
- take a vacuum hose to the inside of the cabinet and then wipe
(windex for me) every surface.
- remove the front bezel/cover to get access to the switch assembly.
- your coarse filter is probably falling apart as mine were. I replaced
the filter with some new-fangled Dupont furnace filter (mumble the
name) which has three components: a rigid plastic stabilizing grid,
a very course filter, and a fine (10 micron) filter mesh. I cut a
rectangle of the fine mesh to fit and held it in place with the
stabilizing grid, alos cut to fit. It works very, very well.
- When the caps are done, put it all back together, and enjoy! :)
I have a couple of drives the sort of quietly squeal a bit when first
spun up, but I never found any information on lubrication, etc., and
they quiet up after about 30 seconds, so I don't worry too much.
Lastly, be cautious around the head actuator. The heads and the
spindle (plate) are carefully aligned, and I wouldn't remove or adjust
either of these. Unless, that is, you have the printsets and proper
tools (which I don't).
Good luck!
- Jared