11 Apr
2001
11 Apr
'01
6:09 a.m.
Look "good" ... ??? ... Depends on your preferences, I guess.
A big part of the question of HOW to go about fixing this is to answer the
question of whether your goal is to restore the KIM-1 to its original condition
for historical authenticity or whether you'd just as soon have something that
works well instead. If the former is your goal, then you've a lot of hunting to
do, but may eventually find out how to modify some other product to fit the
application. On the other hand, there are lots of available keypads, or, if you
prefer, lots of available individual keyswitches with removable/clear-capped
tops, that you can build a really decent and servicable keypad that you can
attach to the auxilliary connector in order to substitute it for the original
without having first to remove the existing keypad. It seems to me that they
should work quite well in parallel.
I don't know that Commodore actually fabricated the keypads themselves, and, in
fact, rather doubt it, so it's likely someone, somewhere, will have used a
similar keypad, or, at least, similar switches, so that will provide you with
amusement at swapmeets and junk sales. Moreover, if you haven't yet looked at
third-party switch catalogs, I'd certainly recommend that so you can explore
replacing the keypad with a possibly more durable and/or convenient, yet
cosmetically similar keypad.
This will require some serious head-scratching.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Archer" <dogbert(a)mindless.com>
To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 1:17 AM
Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
----- Original Message -----
From: Ethan Dicks <ethan_dicks(a)yahoo.com>
To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
--- Richard Erlacher <edick(a)idcomm.com> wrote:
particular
It's pretty hard to tell whether it's the
keypad or the circuit that's
malfunctioning. How did you determine it's the keypad itself?
Looking at the schematic, it appears to be a simple matrix. Short a X and Y line for the questionable key. If it
"strikes", it's the keypad.
If it still flakes out, it could be a component or trace.
Right. It's a 3 x 7 array with 2 keys wired to a 556 for ST (step) and
RS (reset).
I've already tested the broken keys via the edge connector, and they're
working fine. Not that there was too much doubt, as the buttons
involved are either caved in or "feel like they're not connecting
with anything". So a 3x7 + 2 switch setup should do the trick,
but what would look good.
-ethan
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