31 May
2005
31 May
'05
3:24 p.m.
On Tue, 2005-05-31 at 08:54 +0100, Gordon JC Pearce wrote:
Well, if you can't make them, buy them :-)
Or lots of cheap crappy spanners that can be
heated up and bent
been there, done that. I have ended up making all sorts of tools for car
work - just don't think I'd be able to make a set of bristol spline
keys... > That'll do nicely for assembly.
> I have encountered VW bus rear axle nuts that needed WELL over 1000 ft lbs
> to break loose. I would never subject a torque wrench or even a ratchet
> to that kind of force. The Craftsman 3/4" breaker bar just bends.
Ouch. Not often I've ever needed more than about 150lb/ft on a car,
exception being removing cylinder head studs that are corroded into engine blocks. I've known 1940's machinery
that's been in that sort of
state though (and heating the right bits with a gas torch has been the
only way to loosen them up)
Yes, but you can't heat things like driveshaft nuts without ruining the
bearings, CV joints, etc.
Hmm, I had to get one of those, can't even remember why now though. I
have a feeling 15/32" isn't that common either.
Probably not, but I've not needed that one yet :-) The 11/32, as I said,
was for a specific job on the HP9810 calculator. It was also needed for
much the same job on the 9830.
Regarding system zero screws, if they're what I
think they are then I
have come across them before - think it was in an old Sun disk unit, but
I'm not certain. A decent pair of pliers with no slop in the joint makes
short work of them though.
The Ferret makes life interesting by putting the screws inside rubber
feet so you can't grab them with pliers (these are the main PCB mouting
screws, BTW, the feet are entirely inside the machine, only there to
prevent you using pliers). I suppose you could tear the feet off, but I
really would rather keep the machine original (and thus get the right
tool from RS).
-tony