9 Apr
2010
9 Apr
'10
11:17 a.m.
On 9 Apr 2010 at 0:05, Pete Turnbull wrote:
> 600F is about 315C -- just about OK for 60/40 but far too cool for
> lead-free. 800F is just over 425C and bit hot for lead-free; the
Waht is the problem with getting lead-free solder too hot?
And aonther thing that's boethering me. There are many different
lead-free solders out there. How do I know which one I have to use to
reowrk a modern PCB for which there is no service manual available? Does
it even matter?
usual
recommended temperature for lead-free is 380C or a little over
700F. My Weller and Oryx kit is set for 350C for 60/40 and 380C for
lead-free.
I do keep an assortment of tips around; I think that the "one that
comes in the box" is a PTA7, but for fine 63/37 SnPb solder, 700F is just too hot. I don't particularly care for RoHS
solder;
fortunately, the leaded stuff is easy enough to obtain in the US. It
might not be the case in the EU.
It's not hard to get in the UK, and AFAIK it's quite legal to use it for
homebrew projects and reworking stuff that was built before this
ridiculous directive. I don;'t care for the lead-free stuff either.
The last bit of plumbing I did (replacing a well pressure tank) was
done with 50/50 solder and it's the solder that I use when working on
brass musical instruments. It stays "plastic" longer than the
eutectic variety (which has virtually no plastic phase) and can be
tooled while still soft. The amount of lead-bearing surface exposed
to the water supply or musician is very small if things have been
done correctly.
Indeed... Over here it;s illkegal to use leaded solder on drinking water
plumbing. For waht reason $deity only knows. The ammount of lead that
would get into the wanter from the average soldered joint would be
minimal. But then such regulations are rearely made by people who
actually think what's going on.
-tony