22 Jun
2004
22 Jun
'04
3:10 p.m.
[Tony Duell]
It's been a while since I had it open, but I'm fairly sure my oven's
door switches don't work that way.
[David V. Corbin]
Well, no; I never submitted an example for testing, so it can't be.
[failure
modes]
Most of the time it's the door interlock microswitches (one of them
is _designed_ to short the mains if the others stick closed), So I yanked
the whole thing, wired the fan and magnetron together (I
almost always used it on high anyway, and lower power settings
worked by imposing a <100% duty cycle on the magnetron), and
controlled it with an ordinary wall light switch, on the principle
that it's too simple for much to go wrong.
A classic example of where a little
knowledge can be very dangerous.
Definitely NOT "UL Approved" or "CE Marked". [your solution APPEARS to have bypassed all of the
safeties (door,
etc.)).
I'm not sure where you saw such an appearance, but it is incorrect. I
may be crazy, but I'm not stupid.
I didn't mention them, because they were irrelevant to my story, but I
did not bypass the safety switches. They were not wired through the
PCB I removed; its _only_ connections to the rest of the oven were (a)
a power feed to run the electronics, (b) an SPST relay (or something
else being used as SPST) to control the fan, and (c) a similar relay to
control the magnetron. Oh, and a flexible-printed-cable to the keypad.
(The beeper was on the PCB.)
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