25 Apr
2017
25 Apr
'17
6:51 a.m.
On 4/25/17 8:57 AM, Paul Koning via cctalk wrote:
A water trap/oil filter is a trivial thing to add. Most come with
a
regulator which is handy.
However, Generally the water and oil content is low to start with
unless the compressor
is seriously worn or your taking air form the bottom of the tank.
Normally its good
practice to drain the tank of water anyway. I've painted a few things
in my day like
racing cars.
The alternate is a canister of nitrogen gas or cans of "air". The
quantity needed
is not all that great.
Even after all that I'd still dry it with a little heat (oven at 180F or
a clean empty
container in the sun.
I've used the dishwasher (sans caustic dish detergent) for cleaning then
in the
oven to dry for radios, computer boards, analog boards, and assemblies
that can trap water. Things that turn or move like switches (open wafer
for example)
need to have contact treatment and bearing lubrication afterwards.
Allison
On Apr 25,
2017, at 6:06 AM, Pete Turnbull via cctalk <cctalk at classiccmp.org> wrote:
On 25/04/2017 10:08, jim stephens via cctalk wrote:
Worse yet, a lot of compressors have oil in their air. You can attached a
dryer/filter to the compressor outlet to block that. Compressors intended for air brush
use tend to be set up that way, and/or use a mechanism that doesn't use oil (such as a
diaphragm pump). On 4/25/2017 1:39 AM, Pete Turnbull via cctalk
wrote:
> "Little residue" would be more accurate, and some of that residue
> will be water (look up "azeotrope") - plus you need a lot of
> alcohol for something the size of a PDP-8 backplane. Blow dry,
> even after an alcohol rinse.
I should perhaps have mentioned that the idea is
to flush the remaining
water or alcohol out by blowing, not evaporate it like your hairdresser
would :-) And you ought to use dry air, ideally - most compressors have water in their
air. paul