-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at
classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Jonas
Otter
Sent: 22 December 2015 21:35
To: cctalk at
classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
On 2015-12-20 23:43, Dave Wade wrote:
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at
classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
>> steven at
malikoff.com
>> Sent: 20 December 2015 22:23
>> To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
>> <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>> Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>>
>> ---------------------------- Original Message
>> ----------------------------
>> Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>> From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
>> Date: Mon, December 21, 2015 3:46 am
>> To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts'"
>> <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>> -----
>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at
classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
>>>> steven at
malikoff.com
>>>> Sent: 20 December 2015 02:10
>>>> To: General Discussion: On-Topic Posts <cctech at classiccmp.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ---------------------------- Original Message
>>>> ----------------------------
>>>> Subject: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>>>> From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
>>>> Date: Sun, December 20, 2015 6:41 am
>>>> To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic Posts'"
<cctech at classiccmp.org>
>>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> --
>>> -----
>>>
>>>> Folks,
>>>>
>>>> I own an EAI TR-10 analog computer which sadly came without any
>>>> patch cables and accessories. Normally this wouldn't be a problem,
>>>> BUT the
>>>> TR-10 comes with special resistive plugs which go at the ends of
>>>> the patch leads. These have a 4mm plug and socket with a 10k or
>>>> 100k resistor in between. I can't figure out a way to easily
>>>> fabricate replacements. I can easily obtain 4mm plugs and sockets,
>>>> and solder a resistor between them, but when I try and mount them
>>>> on a short rigid tube all my efforts fail. The plug and socket
>>>> need to be twisted in opposite
>>> directions and any soldered joint just fails.
>>>> Any usggestions?
>>>>
>>>> Does any one have some of these and if so how are they
constructed?
>>>> Dave Wade
>>>> G4UGM
>>>>
>>> Would you be able to put up some photos of what you have, an
>>> original, and with a ruler included for scale?
>>>
>> I don't have anything! The last picture on this page shows the
>> items:-
>>
>>
http://www.analogmuseum.org/english/collection/eai/tr10/
>>
>> and the plugs on these are standard "4mm" wander plugs, so the part
> containing the resistor must be about 1" to 1.5" long. There is a 4mm
> socket in the end and either a 1k or 10k resistor.
>> Dave
> Ah, ok, now I get it. Could you use two of the banana jack barrels,
> cut in half (machine them would be better) so that they can be
> contrarotated, then superglue or solvent glue the seam when tightened
against
eachother?
> If I cut them with a saw I end up with a gap. SuperGlue does not gap
fill. I
am kind of leaning towards casting resin....
Actually, super glue does gap fill. Use the thick stuff and sprinkle
baking soda
on the glue after applying. It will set rock hard
instantly.
The plastic model crowd use this for gap filling instead of putty
sometimes.
That the stuff they call Gorilla Glue or is that something else?
Jonas
Gorilla Glue is polyurethane I
think. I mean the thick viscosity type of
cyanoacrylate glue you can buy for instance in hobby shops, like this
stuff:
It doesn't really matter which brand, what you want is cyanoacrylate and
not the runny kind. Any decent shop selling models should have it, or a
Games Workshop store (I think it is the preferred glue for building
Warhammer figures).
Jonas