19 Apr
2006
19 Apr
'06
3:10 p.m.
Joe wrote....
Is 'your' WD40 the same as the stuff we get in the UK?
The stuff we get over here seems to be a mixture of many different
hydrocarbons, including some waxy ones. After a short-ish time the light
components evapourate and leave the wax behind. Ideal for the original
use (keeping water out), not so good on fine machinery.
I tend to call it 'Wanton Destruction 40', because of this. If somebody
has sprayed it onto, say, a camera or clock, you have to take the whole
thing apart, clean all the bits in a suitable solvent, and then put it
back togyeter. A long job.
Yes, I use WD40. For keeping rust off garden tools, and off my steel
rod/bar stock. I also use watch and clock oils on precision mechanisms,
and propan-2-ol on electrical contacts.
That's good point. A lot of the problems
that I've had with the 1000s
are due to poor contacts on those cards. I've found that if the contacts
are dry it's very hard to seat the cards. Now I take a paper towel and
dampen it with WD-40 and wipe the contacts good with it. It helps clean
the
contacts and it leaves a light film of kerosene (the primary ingredient of
WD-40) on the contacts and makes it much easier to seat and remove the
circuit boards.
WD-40 is basically a light oil with some solvent properties. It is
NOT meant for GOLD contacts, nor electrical use. I don't
know about others practices
or experience, but I wouldn't put WD40 on a gold edge card connector
I would be suprised if it attacked the gold, but I don't think it'll do
much good to the contact!
-tony