17 Apr
2005
17 Apr
'05
10:13 a.m.
On Sun, 17 Apr 2005, Jules Richardson wrote:
I've just removed the faceplate on the CRT for an
HP 250 that was
suffering from the dreaded mould. Used a bit of resistance wire as
someone here had suggested, and it was a remarkably easy job. Took
about ten mins to make it all the way across the CRT (although I was
only running from a 10V DC supply - I expect there's a lot of scope for
increasing the voltage without risk of damaging the CRT)
The sealant stuff pretty much just peels straight off the front of the
CRT / rear of the faceplate once the two are separated. A knife blade,
not water, and washing detergent shifted the rest and cleaned everything
up.
Jules,
Thanks for the info. Did you save any of the affected scraps to have
analyzed by a biologist or something? I don't know if you know anyone
over there who would do it for cheap or free but I know someone over here
who can.
Are you certain it was a mold eating at the sealant or was it, as someone
else put forth, a simple delaminating affect which caused the round spots
to appear when the faceplate was pried away from the CRT?
Until some of this gets actually analyzed and confirmed as a mold or
fungus then I won't fully rely that it in fact is such.
I'm not sure about trying to re-seal it; that
could go horribly wrong
and leave air bubbles trapped in there. Not even sure what stuff to use.
Padding the faceplace out as necessary right at the edges (where it
won't be visible when everything's back together) is probably the best
course of action and it'll look as good as new when back together.
If you don't introduce some sort of filler you might have a shadow or
annoying opitcal affect. Possibly.
Next interesting task will be getting the paint off
the 250's console
desk though - seems like when they were scrapped someone just went
around with a spray-can and put big X's on anything that was being
disposed of...
Gasoline (or petrol as you might want to call it :) is supposed to be able
to dissolve spraypaint without affecting the underlying paint. Also, a
naptha solvent should work but only if used carefully (don't apply
directly, apply to a cloth, and work it very lightly and slowly).
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
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