Hello,
I would be interested in any details you have regarding the Acorn teletext
adapter.
To find out why, look at:
http://www.heyrick.co.uk/software/ttx/
Thank you,
Rick.
--
Richard Murray
<heyrick(a)merseymail.com>
--------------------------------------------------------------------
FREE eLearning courses for Merseyside SMEs
Register NOW at: http://www.training.connect.org.uk/elearning-mm/
Improve your productivity, profitability and competitiveness through learning
What's more astounding is the number of page views: 761.
Rich
Original Message-----
From: cctalk-bounces+AEA-classiccmp.org
+AFs-mailto:cctalk-bounces+AEA-classiccmp.org+AF0-On Behalf Of John Allain
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 4:06 PM
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: truckload of PDP stuff
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem+ACY-item+AD0-4122358161
Winning bid: US +ACQ-1,275.00
Another, gulp... Successful rescue+ACE-
John A.
Tonight, on Green Acres (on the TV Land channel), they're showing a
1950/1960s minicomputer or mainframe with several tape drives, etc.
Does anyone know what type of computer it is? The show will probably
be repeated sometime tomorrow (probably sometime between 4:30 and 6:30
PM EST, I think). Anyone interested in taking a look to see what it
is, or know what it is from tonight's show?
--
Copyright (C) 2003 R. D. Davis The difference between humans & other animals:
All Rights Reserved | My VAX | an unnatural belief that we're above Nature &
www.rddavis.org | runs VMS & | her other creatures, using dogma to justify such
410-744-4900 | doesn't crash!| beliefs and to justify much human cruelty.
In a message dated 4/15/2004 6:13:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ehl(a)envirohealthlabs.com writes:
<< Yes, I am interested in QIC-80 Tapes. Please tell me how many tapes you
have in total. Please give me your phone number. I will be pleased to call you.
>>
I have many types of QIC80 type tapes. Tell me which type (2120XL,
2080,DC2000 for example) and I will check what I have.
On Apr 14, 19:55, Antonio Carlini wrote:
> > I know quite a bit about this actually, because my dad owned
> > a fire extinguisher company. The reason you use foam to
> > combat a liquid fire is to smother it,
>
> I've been on the "Fire Warden" course at a local station
> precisely once, so I'm afraid that I have to disagree
> with you slightly.
>
> The contents of the extiguisher are entirely immaterial.
> The extinguisher is just there to act as a propellant
:-)
> And the powder ones are allegedly good for annoying the
> neighbours and rendering anything in the room utterly
> useless in the future.
I couldn't possibly admit to knowing ;-)
> It's a pity that page about lighting a barbie with LOX
> has been taken down ...
You've been watching Brainiac, haven't you?
BTW, did anyone tape "The Best of Brainiac" on Sky last night?
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
absolutely proprietary. Proxim created what was called the Open
Air standard and it predates 802.11b. It will only talk to another
Proxim PC Card, ISA bus card, or PCI bus card that is made by
Proxim.
best regards, Steve Thatcher
>--- Original Message ---
>From: "Joe R." <rigdonj(a)cfl.rr.com>
>To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
>Date: 4/14/04 7:01:54 PM
>
I found one of these today. Is anyone familar with them? This
one is a 16
>bit ISA card and I can't find anything about this model on the
net. Does
>anyone know if it's compatible with the current wireless LAN
cards?
>
> Jo
I gound one of a Disktwin card made for the Apple computer today. It was
made by Golden Triangle Computers. From what I can find on the net it was
used to write to TWO hard drives simultanously. Is anyone familar with it?
I'd like to know more about it.
Joe
On Apr 14, 10:09, ben franchuk wrote:
> Paul Koning wrote:
>
> > You mean you want the tools used to be open source? If you find
any,
> > please let us all know -- I have looked and found nothing.
>
> The tools would be nice open source. No I want my data open source
> as much as possible.
> Ben.
http://bach.ece.jhu.edu/~haceaton/pcb/
It's been around for years.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Hi
I need 10.20 and all compliers can you help me.
______________________________________________________________________
This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System.
For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
______________________________________________________________________
>The contents of the extiguisher are entirely immaterial.
>The extinguisher is just there to act as a propellant so
>that you can amuse yourself pushing burning cardboard
>boxes and/or burning wastebins around while awaiting the
>professionals. They bring huge hoses so they can make
>the burning stuff really fly :-)
And Water Can extinguishers are for chasing people around and soaking
them on hot days (or in the dead of winter).
And CO2 is used to chill beers, and spray at probies to watch them scream
like little girls. (or at the probies girlfriends to give them hard
nipples, insuring that they will never return, and we will all later
bitch, while drinking our chilled beers, that we can never get women to
hang out at the station).
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Yes, I am interested in QIC-80 Tapes. Please tell me how many tapes you have in total. Please give me your phone number. I will be pleased to call you.
Thanks.
Vino
Vinod
>No, if there were too little (but there was enough oxygen and heat) it
>would flash off. Too little fuel is never a reason for something not
>to ignite, though it may prevent sustained burning.
Um, yeah, I believe that is what I said on the very first reply of mine.
It wouldn't catch fire, or not for more than a fraction of a second. The
concern on the original poster was clearly, would the oil catch fire and
cause a problem. My response was, no, chances are there is too little
fuel to create a sustained chemical reaction (ie: start a fire).
Flashing off, won't cause a fire. Chances are, you won't even notice it
did it (other than possibly smell the by products). And depending on the
amount of oil, and what exactly the oil is made of, it may never get the
chance to even flash off... it may "smoke off" instead. As the heat of
the fuser raises to the flash point, the oil becomes unstable and starts
to break down and oxidize. You wind up with smoke (incomplete
combustion), and all potential fuel may in fact oxidize before flashing,
leaving nothing to ultimately flash. (hence the idea, too little fuel, no
fire).
>Three things: chemical reaction is implicit in fuel+oxygen (and
>activation energy). Unless you get into esoteric things like
>substances that interfere with the reaction (like some CFCs can),
>because they change the activation energy.
No, it is four things. It USED to be considered three things... then fire
science got smarter, and realized that chemical reactions, although
implied in the oxidation process, are a VERY important process of the
fire. And attacking it is more common then people thought.
In fact, most normal people that fight a fire are probably in fact
attacking the chemical reaction. Dry Chemical extinguishers don't
actually smother a fire like many people assume, they inhibit
oxidation... ie: they break the chemical reaction. At least here in the
USA, Dry Chemical extinguishers are the most popular form of fire
extinguisher found in homes and offices (standard ABC are Dry Chem in the
USA).
Normal "civilian" ways of combating a kitchen fire:
Spray it with water: removes heat
Dry Chemical "ABC" extinguisher: stops chemical reaction
Towel over the fire: removes oxygen
Turn off the gas on the stove: removes fuel
>I know quite a bit about this actually, because my dad owned a fire
>extinguisher company.
Ahh... ok, had I known that, I might have been more specific in my use of
terms and explanations. I figured I was trying to make this a little more
"layman's". I myself have been a fire fighter for 13 years... so I hope I
know something about the nature of fire (if not, I've wasted an awful lot
of time in classes, and been darn lucky with all the fires I've gone up
against).
>The reason you use foam to combat a liquid fire
>is to smother it, because with an established fire, it's unlikely you
>can get enough water to cool it fast enough, without spreading the
>burning liquid around.
Exactly. (Sorry, I didn't explain the reason behind it, because I didn't
realize I was talking to someone that cared).
>The petrol in bucket of water trick works
>because the petrol layer is very thin and the water prevents it getting
>hot enough before the match goes out.
Except you forget about vaporization. Gasoline (petrol) vaporizes readily
at standard atmospheric pressure. If you wait for too long before tossing
that match into the bucket, you won't be igniting the fuel on the water,
you will be igniting the fuel vapors hovering over the water. The water
won't stop the heat of the match if the match is still 4 inches above the
surface. The vapors ignite... and you get a nice POP and flash as they
expand out of the top of the bucket. I wouldn't want to be standing over
it when that happens.
Depending on how much petrol you use, this could be fun to do... like I
said... you do it, I'll video tape. :-)
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
On Apr 14, 9:53, chris wrote:
> >That's a very poor test,
>
> Its not the most ideal, but I wanted to recommend something he could
try
> easily to give him a quick and dirty answer.
>
> >and the quantity is not what matters to the
> >chemicals partaking (or not) in the reaction :-) The local heat
> >capacity is.
>
> Wrong. You need sufficient fuel to oxygen mix. Too little fuel or too
> little o2, and it won't burn. My guess (and it was a guess, based on
what
> I know about fires), is the 3 in 1 oil that was on the fuser was too
low
> of a quantity to burn freely.
No, if there were too little (but there was enough oxygen and heat) it
would flash off. Too little fuel is never a reason for something not
to ignite, though it may prevent sustained burning.
> The heat capacity is but one factor in starting and sustaining a
fire.
> There are 4 parts needed for a fire: fuel, oxygen, heat, chemical
> reaction. Remove any one, the fire goes out.
Three things: chemical reaction is implicit in fuel+oxygen (and
activation energy). Unless you get into esoteric things like
substances that interfere with the reaction (like some CFCs can),
because they change the activation energy.
> >Pour half a cup of petrol (er, gasoline) into a bucket
> >of water, drop in a match, and watch the match go out...
>
> You do that... I'll video tape.
I know quite a bit about this actually, because my dad owned a fire
extinguisher company. The reason you use foam to combat a liquid fire
is to smother it, because with an established fire, it's unlikely you
can get enough water to cool it fast enough, without spreading the
burning liquid around. The petrol in bucket of water trick works
because the petrol layer is very thin and the water prevents it getting
hot enough before the match goes out.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Another one:
Brian Toubman is selling a very nice, complete S-100 system.
The system is located in Connecticut.
Please contact him directly if you are interested in the system.
More details can be found at
http://vintage-computer.com/vcforum/viewtopic.php?t=915
I have nothing to do with this item or the seller. I am just passing this
on for the benefit of the list (and, obviously, the seller.)
Erik Klein
www.vintage-computer.comwww.vintage-computer.com/vcforum
The Vintage Computer Forum
Rosann (rosann1224(a)rcn.com) is looking to donate her Tandy 1000TX system
to a collector for the cost of postage.
Please contact her directly if you are interested in the system.
More details can be found at
http://vintage-computer.com/vcforum/viewtopic.php?t=911
I have nothing to do with this item or the seller. I am just passing this
on for the benefit of the list.
Erik Klein
www.vintage-computer.comwww.vintage-computer.com/vcforum
The Vintage Computer Forum
I noticed on a message board that in June of 2003 you posted that you had found an instruction manual for an IPC MCD-1040 7 disc changer. Do you happen to still have the manual, and did you ever get any responses for what kind of cables it used? I recently came upon one the units myself and was wondering the same thing.
Kris
Hi all,
I finally had some time to work on my "homebrew console" project.
It is not yet finished, but the progress is significant enough
to report to this group.
I completed the wiring of the new sleak design PDP-11/35 console,
and debugged the "firmware" of the Motorola M6802 microprocessor.
After the console seemed to work as I wanted it (...) [using the
built-in debug monitor], it was time to turn to the current SIMH
version (3.2-0). I ported my previous thoughts of version 2.10 to
this current release, and debugged a little more :-)
The progress so far:
1) set the switches to any address, press "LOAD ADRS".
result: the position of the switches appears on the ADDRESS LEDs.
2) set the switches [15:0] to any value, press "DEP".
result: - the data is stored in the (previously loaded) address.
- the data appears on the DATA LEDs.
3) press "EXAM"
result: - the address is shown on the ADDRESS LEDs,
- the data of this address is shown on the DATA LEDs.
4) when "EXAM" is pressed again after "EXAM"
result: the next address is shown (address and data)
5) when "DEP" is pressed again after "DEP"
result: the data is stored in the next address.
6) when "EXAM" and "DEP" are toggled following each other
result: the address is not incremented.
So, LOAD, EXAM, and DEP react as the REAL CONSOLE in combination
with the patched SIMH software ! More testing will be done.
I thought this progress was nice to mention here; the following items
on my list are:
- behaviour of CONT, HALT/ENABL, START (and S-STEP!)
- ADDRESS and DATA LEDs update automatically when SIMH runs a PDP-11 OS.
- shoot a short .mpg to show an "idle pattern" of the console when it
is not connected, running in "stand-alone mode".
Check www.pdp-11.nl and click the link [homebrew 'PDP-11'] at the left.
NOTE: I built this console with my PDP-11/35 as example. PDP-11's are
my focus of collecting ... The protocol used between the "front-end" and
the SIMH software is simple. I do not see any reason why you cannot hook
up a PDP-8 console or even any other blinkenlight console (e.g. HP-1000).
I real console (from eBay, I do not support the thought of stripping a
fine real machine just for the console ...!) could also be connected, it
is just a matter of wiring the switches and the toggles.
If there is sufficient interest, I *might* think of designing a lay-out
of a single board that contains the CPU and the I/O. Depends on how many
of you have interest in this project to keep the cost low. If somebody
works where he/she has easy access to a PC lay-out program and etch option
(double-sided PCB, with metalisation through the holes), I will gladly
assist and provide answers for any related question.
kind regards,
- Henk, PA8PDP
My problem is that I don't have a lot to trade. I do have an old
Western Union Baudot (I think 5 bit) teletype machine that I think I'm
going to get rid of, but it was mostly for use by deaf people who
used it to communicate over the telephone and doesn't interface
(as far as I know) to a computer.
I have only recently been seriously considering locating an 11/40 and
associated peripherals, now that I have a place where I could set it up and
work on it. I recently moved from the city back to the country and I built a
30' by 60' building / shop behind my house. Inside I closed off a portion
that is climate controlled, which is a good place to house an 11/40.
What kind of condition is your spare LA36 in? I suppose I could start my
collection with an LA36 and continue searching for an 11/40 to go with it! :-)
Ashley
-----Original Message-----
From: Jay West <jwest(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Apr 14, 2004 11:29 AM
To: Ashley Carder <wacarder(a)usit.net>,
"General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
Subject: Re: PDP 11/40, VT50 or VT52, LA36
I have a spare LA36 (maybe an LA120, but I think it's an LA36) located in
St. Louis I'd trade off.
Jay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ashley Carder" <wacarder(a)usit.net>
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 10:19 AM
Subject: PDP 11/40, VT50 or VT52, LA36
> Does anyone on this list have any of the following
> items that they would be interested in getting rid of:
>
> PDP 11/40 with rack and RK05 drive(s)
> VT50 or VT52 DecScope
> LA36 Decwriter
> RK05 pack with RSTS/E
>
> I would like to attempt to reconstruct the computer
> that my friends and I used in college from 1975-80.
> Our former professor who was also director of the
> computer center and is now retired has indicated that
> he might offer some assistance in reconstructing the
> environment if we can find a PDP 11/40. Our college
> junked their 11/40 in 1989 or shortly thereafter. The
> new generation of computer people there "cleaned up"
> old junk and threw away anything that was left from
> the 11/40 that we knew and loved.
>
> We have created a pretty faithful replica using Bob
> Supnik's emulator and have it available via TELNET
> on the internet. Several of us had complete prints
> from the late 70s of all the source programs on the
> system. It was running RSTS/E with Basic Plus. It took
> a while to find someone with a soft copy of the
> Basic Plus version of ADVENTure, but I was able to get
> a copy from someone who was in Project Delta and
> have loaded that to our RK05 disk image for our
> simulated 11/40.
>
> We would like to get our hands on the real hardware
> so we can feel the heat and hear the fans whirring
> once again!
>
> Thanks for any and all help that anyone can provide!
>
> Ashley
>
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
I'm interested in the 11/40 Unibus stuff. I just joined the list and I started
another thread with this same title. Do you know if anyone's actually seen
the stuff in this lot? I'm wondering what kind of condition it's in.
Ashley
-----Original Message-----
From: John Allain <allain(a)panix.com>
Sent: Apr 14, 2004 11:25 AM
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
Subject: Re: truckload of PDP stuff
I'm more of a Qbus guy, and this looks to be all Unibus.
(Though I do have 2 Unibussers)
Someone on the list has contacted me stating his
intent to be the winning bidder. Perhaps he (BCC'ed herein)
should make his name public so people can sub-bid to him
for individual machines in the lot.
John A.
Also.... I am in South Carolina, so I will not be able to help retrieve/load/etc, but I am interested in coordinating with others in purchasing some of the PDP-11 items if we can work it out.
Ashley
-----Original Message-----
From: wacarder(a)usit.net
Sent: Apr 14, 2004 9:25 AM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Truckload of PDP stuff
I'm new to this mailing list, but have been following it for a month or more. I'm interested in the 11/40 from the truckload of stuff. I have been wanting to reconstruct a replica of my college computer from the late 1970s. I have recreated it in Bob Supnik's simulator, but would like to be able to get my hands on the real stuff!
Has anyone actually seen the stuff in that "truckload"?
Ashley Carder
>That's a very poor test,
Its not the most ideal, but I wanted to recommend something he could try
easily to give him a quick and dirty answer.
>and the quantity is not what matters to the
>chemicals partaking (or not) in the reaction :-) The local heat
>capacity is.
Wrong. You need sufficient fuel to oxygen mix. Too little fuel or too
little o2, and it won't burn. My guess (and it was a guess, based on what
I know about fires), is the 3 in 1 oil that was on the fuser was too low
of a quantity to burn freely. That does NOT mean it won't smolder, it
just means you won't get a flame. I'd expect that there was a negligible
amount of oil actually on the fuser.
The heat capacity is but one factor in starting and sustaining a fire.
There are 4 parts needed for a fire: fuel, oxygen, heat, chemical
reaction. Remove any one, the fire goes out. All 4 have to be in the
correct "zone" for a fire to happen (what that zone is differs based on
fuel)
>The concrete keeps the oil much cooler than is required
>to *sustain* burning,
That's actually the point of using it. It won't sustain burning. When the
heat source is removed, the fire will go out on its own. However, a match
(which burns upward of 1000 degrees) will be sufficient to test the 320
degree limit of the oil to see if there is enough fuel to start a fire.
>Pour half a cup of petrol (er, gasoline) into a bucket
>of water, drop in a match, and watch the match go out...
You do that... I'll video tape. Gasoline floats on water, unless you
chase that cup of gas with the match, the gas will rapidly move to the
surface and start vaporizing. Your match will probably ignite the fumes
half way into the bucket, resulting in a nice POP as the remaining gas
bursts into flame... right on the surface of the water. Should be for a
fun video to watch. (we carry foam on our fire trucks specifically to
combat situations like gasoline fires... if you have a gasoline fire, DO
NOT add water... you just end up with a bigger gasoline fire.)
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
I'm new to this mailing list, but have been following it for a month or more. I'm interested in the 11/40 from the truckload of stuff. I have been wanting to reconstruct a replica of my college computer from the late 1970s. I have recreated it in Bob Supnik's simulator, but would like to be able to get my hands on the real stuff!
Has anyone actually seen the stuff in that "truckload"?
Ashley Carder
Hi there.
I got a few SGI Indys recently, and I would like to get them to work. I
do not have a Sync on Green monitor, however, I have read that the Indy
outputs a composite signal, not unlike Sun hardware. I have a Sun 13w3
adaptor (which I know does not work in pristine state with the SGI
machine), and I would like to use it to connect my Samsung SyncMaster
750s to my Indy.
*http://groups.google.com/groups?q=Sun+13W3+SGI+Indy&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&selm=3C9C795E.60FCC62%40freenet.de&rnum=6
<--* I found this reference to the pinout of Sun and SGI equipment...but
I can't make heads or tails of what I would to to the adaptor to make it
work with my monitor.
Thanks,
Phil.
Although the CRT in question is off-topic, the question is fairly topical:
Is there any way to remove physical blemishes from the face of a CRT?
I've got a very nice 19" SVGA display that has some scratches on the face.
They are somewhat invisible unless you happen to be looking at something
at that part of the screen (lower third, right of center).
Can this be buffed out or ... ?
I hope there's a way to do this because I've been wanting to fix the face
of my 35" ProScan TV that has the same problem. You barely notice it, but
it is slightly distracting when you do.
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
On Apr 14, 1:16, der Mouse wrote:
> > Sorry, I don't know what white spirit is called in the
> > States, it's similar to kerosene but lighter and leaves no residue.
> > It's most often used here for thinning oil-based paints, or
cleaning
> > paint brushes.
>
> This is probably the substance I (brought up in the USA of USA
parents)
> learned to call "mineral spirits".
That sounds imminently plausible -- thanks!
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Apr 13, 11:48, R. D. Davis wrote:
> Last night, I made the mistake of putting some 3-in-1 oil (yes, I
> know, it's not a good lubricant) in the bushings around the teflon
> roller (that the heater lamp runs through) in my Laserjet II when I
> disassembled the fuser to replace a worn 14-tooth gear. I should
have
> done a more thorough disassembly and used grease rated for use with
> high temperatures... anyway, what concerns me is the low flash point
> for the 3-in-1 (if what's in the can I used is the same as the spray;
> the spray is all I could find data for, flash point about 101 degrees
> F).
3-in-1 oil is a perfectly good light machine oil. It *is* a good
lubricant -- for the things it was designed for. You shouldn't have
used it where you did, but neither should you have used grease; teflon
bearings are designed to run dry against polished steel.
I'd expect the flash point of the spray is so low because of the
propellant. The flash point of the oil itself will be much higher.
However, you don't really want it in there. The best thing to do is
to disassemble it again and wipe off as much as you can. If necessary,
white spirit (turpentine substitute) will wash out the residue. Sorry,
I don't know what white spirit is called in the States, it's similar to
kerosene but lighter and leaves no residue. It's most often used here
for thinning oil-based paints, or cleaning paint brushes.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
The low flash point of spray is more than likely coming from vehicle used
for spray. As for 3-in-1 oil, I heard there is nothing predictable in that,
they just put any old thing that is at hand; stuff is intended for household
use. A lubrication guy, who is also on Tecscope group, was saying that most
of content of 3-in-1 is vegetable oil. Those oils oxidize easily in air,
what leads to gumming up and higher temperature just speeds up the process.
Regards
Miroslav Pokorni
The 3M have a material for polishing glass in form similar to Scotchbrite. I
do not know the exact name but I believe it is a variation on Scotchbrite.
Actually, material is Scotchbrite with polishing powder imbedded. I heard of
people using it to polish out scratches on eyeglasses.
Regards
Miroslav Pokorni
SGI started out as a startup based on Jim Clark's Geometry Engine work at
Stanford in the early 80's. The earliest products were based on the SUN
(Stanford University Network) CPU board design with some enhancements.
http://futuretech.mirror.vuurwerk.net/iris-faq.html
appears to be the only copy of the original FAQ I helped with years ago.
>From: "Scott Stevens" <sastevens(a)earthlink.net>
>
>On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 16:08:17 -0400
>Jim Donoghue <jim(a)smithy.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm trying to find a Z80 disassembler for Linux. There are a bunch of
>> DOS ones out there, doesn't do me any good. A long time ago I had
>> downloaded one that was source and compiled it, but I can't remember
>> what it was. Anybody know of one?
>>
>> Jim
>
>Anything as simple as a Z80 disassembler is a stdin/stdout app anyway.
Hi
It is interesting that my definition of a disassembler is
quite a bit different than yours. I would call this a code
lister. A disassembler includes comments, selecting data types,
labeling branching and entry points and statistical cross referencing
( usually as comments in code ). This is often an interactive
process.
I guess writing one's own disassemblers tends to spoil a person.
Dwight
On Apr 13, 14:43, chris wrote:
> >Correction. I just learned that the flash point for 3-in-1 oil is
305
> >degrees Fahrenheit. If I recall correctly, the Laserjet II's fuser
is
> >heated to 320 degrees F., so... still, not good.
>
> put a little on a non flammable surface (like concrete), just a small
> amount (comparable to what you put on the fuser)... touch a match to
it.
> If it doesn't ignite, you should be good to go on the fuser. Matches
burn
> hotter than 305 degrees. (do NOT do this test on a flammable surface
or
> with anything like a cup or cap of oil... given enough fuel/O2 mix,
the
> match will ignite the oil, and not in a very nice manner)
That's a very poor test, and the quantity is not what matters to the
chemicals partaking (or not) in the reaction :-) The local heat
capacity is. The concrete keeps the oil much cooler than is required
to *sustain* burning, and the hot fuser is not comparable to a slab of
cold concrete. Pour half a cup of petrol (er, gasoline) into a bucket
of water, drop in a match, and watch the match go out...
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Last night, I made the mistake of putting some 3-in-1 oil (yes, I
know, it's not a good lubricant) in the bushings around the teflon
roller (that the heater lamp runs through) in my Laserjet II when I
disassembled the fuser to replace a worn 14-tooth gear. I should have
done a more thorough disassembly and used grease rated for use with
high temperatures... anyway, what concerns me is the low flash point
for the 3-in-1 (if what's in the can I used is the same as the spray;
the spray is all I could find data for, flash point about 101 degrees
F).
When the printer warms up for a few seconds, there's some smoke. I
was thinking that it might just smoke a bit and then eventually stop
smoking, but I remember, all too well, the time I accidentally spilled
some motor oil on a hot exhaust manifold when I stopped at a service
station on the way to pick up my PDP-11/73 system years
ago... fortunately a rag was able to be used to put out the flames,
and I do mean big bright yellow flames, quickly before any damage was
done. Is this 3-in-1 oil likely to do the same thing in the fuser
assembly? If it wasn't raining outside, I'd be tempted to put said
oil on an old fuser assembly with a scratched up roller, with all
useable parts removed, take it outside, apply power to it, and see
what happens.
--
Copyright (C) 2003 R. D. Davis The difference between humans & other animals:
All Rights Reserved | My VAX | an unnatural belief that we're above Nature &
www.rddavis.org | runs VMS & | her other creatures, using dogma to justify such
410-744-4900 | doesn't crash!| beliefs and to justify much human cruelty.
Hi,
Somebody dropped off the following items (operational condition unknown)
to the Bletchley Park computer museum the other week which we can't
really make any use of:
Two Racal Milgo Omnimux 82 advanced statistical multiplexors
An ACT SDM-T (seems to convert several analogue phone lines to
digital)
An X-TEC Protocol Converter
A Wellfleet Access Node Communications Server
Large industrial rack system with 5" VGA display, Colorado 1440 tape
drive, 3.5" floppy, PSU, and a huge backplane containing 4 PCI slots and
15 ISA slots. We actually have two units, but may be keeping the screen
>from one of them as it could prove useful for something at a later date
- maybe the backplane and chassis is still useful to someone though. I
believe there's the PC-on-a-card board kicking around the office from
one of the racks, the other one arrived with a bare backplane though.
They're free to a good home; comms gear isn't really my thing so I just
grabbed what was on the front labels - if any of the above sounds like
it could be useful to anyone I can always get more details as to exact
model numbers, what interfaces they have etc.
cheers
Jules
I am looking for 1 x part number 21-17311-01 cpu1 processor.
Our company is based in the UK.
Can you supply this part.
Best Regards
Cara Keir
Internal Sales
On behalf of Nessco Limited
Tel no: +44 1224 414143 Fax no: +44 1224 414192
Email:? cara.keir(a)nessco.co.uk
"The information contained in this message is sent in the strictest
confidence and may contain confidential or privileged information intended
for use of the addressee only.? If you have received this message in error
please delete it and any attachments and notify the sender immediately."
>Correction. I just learned that the flash point for 3-in-1 oil is 305
>degrees Fahrenheit. If I recall correctly, the Laserjet II's fuser is
>heated to 320 degrees F., so... still, not good.
put a little on a non flammable surface (like concrete), just a small
amount (comparable to what you put on the fuser)... touch a match to it.
If it doesn't ignite, you should be good to go on the fuser. Matches burn
hotter than 305 degrees. (do NOT do this test on a flammable surface or
with anything like a cup or cap of oil... given enough fuel/O2 mix, the
match will ignite the oil, and not in a very nice manner)
You may not have sufficient fuel to start a chemical reaction. Unless you
soaked the part in oil.
However, regardless of the flammability... its going to smoke, and that's
neither going to smell good, or be very healthy. So you'll probably want
to break it down, clean it, and replace it with a high temp grease anyway.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Hi
If it is a TV, the front is a protective glass and is not
under the tension of the vacuum. Most CRT's for scopes
expect there to be a plastic ridicule in front to protect,
so doesn't have any protective glass. The glass used on TV's
is ordinary plate glass and not tempered so it can handle
scratches without failing. Even a crack will not propagate
to the inside glass.
Dwight
>From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk
>>
>>
>>
>> Although the CRT in question is off-topic, the question is fairly topical:
>>
>> Is there any way to remove physical blemishes from the face of a CRT?
>> I've got a very nice 19" SVGA display that has some scratches on the face.
>> They are somewhat invisible unless you happen to be looking at something
>> at that part of the screen (lower third, right of center).
>>
>> Can this be buffed out or ... ?
>>
>> I hope there's a way to do this because I've been wanting to fix the face
>> of my 35" ProScan TV that has the same problem. You barely notice it, but
>> it is slightly distracting when you do.
>
>If the scratches are minor, so the CRT faceplate is not significantly
>weakend, then there are kits available for polishing car windscreenss
>(Oh, OK, auto windshields, right?). They'd probably help.
>
>If the CRT faceplate is weakened, then replace that CRT before it implodes!
>
>-tony
>
Quick question,
Can one install the SRM OS on a 300 series workstation?
I think I have a Model 360 (it has a 68030 processor,
68882 co-processor, scsi, lan etc).
Anyway, I have a 9144 tape drive and when I try to boot
the SRM tape, it lists it as booting and then blanks
the screen and resets. When I use a hard drive with
Basic 5.13, it boots fine.
Am I doing something wrong or does SRM only work with
the HP9826 and similar?
Thanks
Max
Hi Bill
This is a good point. Any polishing will stand out unless
the entire surface is polished. One might even try getting
a little varithane mat finish on a rag and wipe a little
over the scratch. Then wipe around it with some thinner
to remove any excess. It doesn't have exactly the same index of
refraction but it would help hide the scratch.
Dwight
>From: "William Maddox" <wmaddox(a)pacbell.net>
>
>Does the monitor have an anti-glare coating? The various suggestions
>posted for buffing out the damage would seem applicable to an ordinary
>glass screen such as I have seen on older/cheaper small-screen monitors,
>but most newer and large screen monitors have some kind of anti-glare
>coating. The best ones use a metallic coating that is easily damaged and
>looks bad when it is scratched off. You should conside whether removing
>it will make matters worse. Some cheaper anti-glare treatments just put a
>matte finish on the glass, and might not suffer quite so badly.
>
>--Bill
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com>
>To: "Classic Computers Mailing List" <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
>Sent: Monday, April 12, 2004 6:43 PM
>Subject: Removing physical blemishes from CRT?
>
>
>>
>> Although the CRT in question is off-topic, the question is fairly topical:
>>
>> Is there any way to remove physical blemishes from the face of a CRT?
>> I've got a very nice 19" SVGA display that has some scratches on the face.
>> They are somewhat invisible unless you happen to be looking at something
>> at that part of the screen (lower third, right of center).
>>
>> Can this be buffed out or ... ?
>>
>> I hope there's a way to do this because I've been wanting to fix the face
>> of my 35" ProScan TV that has the same problem. You barely notice it, but
>> it is slightly distracting when you do.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer
Festival
>>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> International Man of Intrigue and Danger
http://www.vintage.org
>>
>> [ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers
]
>> [ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org
]
>
>From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com>
>
>On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Dwight K. Elvey wrote:
>
>> It takes quite a bit of elbow grease but yes, it can be done.
>> Usually you use some 10 to 20 micron aluminum oxide to fine
>> grind until you are past the scratch. Then you use rouge or
>> cerium oxide to polish. It is a process similar to what we do
>> to make a telescope mirror.
>
>Do I have to worry about any heat build-up that might cause a fracture of
>some sort?
>
>So sounds good so far. Can I just go to the local telescope store and
>pick up the materials? Can I use my Dremel to do the polishing for me?
>
>--
>
>Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
>
Hi Sellam
You might check at places like stained glass supply stores or
places the do beveled glass. They have polishing compounds that
are designed to be used with a buffing wheel. The technics I
used are designed to end up with a surface that is smooth to
less than 1/8 wavelength of light. You don't need anything
like that for a screen. Most telescope stores don't have supplies
for doing mirrors. I mail order my supplies from places like
Newport Glass or William-Bell.
Check with places that sell and repair window glass. If they don't
have anything there, they'll at least know where to get it.
Dwight
Does anyone have more information about the first SGI machines? I know they
made m68k before the R2000. Anyone actually have one or have more
information about SGIs 1980s (not 70s I presume?) history?
--------
Thanks,
Torquil MacCorkle, III
Lexington, Virginia
Jack, hello. I came across a rather old email regarding aix for ps/2 that
you apparently owned. I'm contacting you on the slim chance to see if you
still had these items and if so, are they still for sale?
Thanks,
Steve Gentry
I'm seeking manuals for the following products for a client:
Probe X [from the Strategic Software Group]
HP GlancePlus
HP PerfView
HP OpenView
IBM Tivoli
IBM Netview
Have you got these? Cool! Let's talk. Send me a message in private
e-mail.
Thanks!
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
Hi there folks.
Way back in the day, 1992 or so, I used to play on my father's SGI
Indigo R3000 at work (the very one which sits beside me at this time;
the story about how I got it is pretty good, ask if you want to hear it)
a flight simulator. The graphics were nothing special, but I do remember
you could fire missiles at targets. Any other details are blurry now,
especially since it has been 12 years since I played that game!
I was wondering if anyone remembered such a game, and possibly it's name
and maybe direct me in the direction as to where I could get a copy. If
you have a copy to sell, I have a PayPal account and money in it to spend!
Thank you!
Phil.
Ed,
You've not responded to my messages regarding the DPS-6. At this point
I'm assuming you're not getting them for some reason, but if you don't
reply to this one by tomorrow then I'll assume you're no longer interested
and will go to the next in line.
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
>From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com>
>
>
>Although the CRT in question is off-topic, the question is fairly topical:
>
>Is there any way to remove physical blemishes from the face of a CRT?
>I've got a very nice 19" SVGA display that has some scratches on the face.
>They are somewhat invisible unless you happen to be looking at something
>at that part of the screen (lower third, right of center).
>
>Can this be buffed out or ... ?
>
>I hope there's a way to do this because I've been wanting to fix the face
>of my 35" ProScan TV that has the same problem. You barely notice it, but
>it is slightly distracting when you do.
>
>--
>
>Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
Hi Sellam
It takes quite a bit of elbow grease but yes, it can be done.
Usually you use some 10 to 20 micron aluminum oxide to fine
grind until you are past the scratch. Then you use rouge or
cerium oxide to polish. It is a process similar to what we do
to make a telescope mirror.
Dwight
Hi
For anyone wanting a parallel keyboard for their
old project machine or someone wanting to connect
to a Polymorphic video board, there is a pair of
keyboards on ebay at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1247&item=4122846529
I've bought two of these myself and they are excellent
quality keyboards. I have no other connection with the
seller. The boards are early 80's vintage and use
a 8051 technology. The key field appears to be capacitive
so it should last a long time. They run on a single +5V.
Dwight
Hi all,
Doug Ricci, who works in IT at the Johns Hopkins Dept.
of Radiology, is offering a NetFRAME NS400 (s/n
D00453) for free. He says it supported more than 150
users on Novell NetWare from 1991-1998 and cost
$80,000 when it was new! He added, "We can't sell
it-not allowed to. I'd like to give it to a
collector..."
You can reach Doug at DWRICCI(a)jhmi.edu, please mention
that you were referred by me.
Thanks,
Evan Koblentz
Hi everyone,
Having conferred with Jay West, I'd now like to
introduce the readers of this mailing list to a new
publication, the Computer Collector E-Mail Newsletter.
A few of you already know me as evan947@yahoo, the guy
who collects handhelds/PDAs. More than a few of you
know Michael Nadeau, formerly of Byte magazine, who
founded the Classic Tech E-Letter a few years ago.
Meanwhile, I and Sellam Ismail (who EVERYONE knows)
pondered starting a print magazine for the hobby last
fall. Ultimately we decided the hobby just isn't big
enough yet to support that.
Instead, early this year Mike handed over the reigns
of his newsletter to me. For those who don't know me,
besides being a computer collector, I (like Mike) am a
veteran technology reporter. Paid my dues at Gannett
(which owns USA Today and other papers), was a staff
engineer at a product review lab for telecom gear, and
spent 3.5 years at eWeek (formerly PC Week.) I'm 29
and grew up on Apple and Atari.
The first thing I did as the new editor is change the
name. I think "Computer Collector E-Mail Newsletter"
is more intuitive and will help attractive people who
aren't necessarily familiar with our growing hobby.
I also changed some of the fundamentals. Before, the
newsletter had infrequent publishing, and in each
issue an attempt was made to cover all of the news out
there. That's a difficult way to run things. So now,
the newsletter is published every Monday. Also, in
every issue we have one main article (news, opinion,
etc.), vs. trying to be a comprehensive news outlet
every single week.
By "we" I mean myself, Mike, Sellam, and author
Christine Finn (Christine's known for writing the book
"Articacts: An archeologist's year in Silicon
Valley"), and Erik Klein, who runs
www.vintage-computer.com.
Of course we did not want to overlap with this mailing
list. Tech tips are clearly this list's domain. So
with the newsletter we're sticking to the root word:
news. To be crystral-clear, we're not a forum, and
we're not going to duplicate existing efforts.
We also didn't want to duplicate fragment the existing
online classified ads and marketplaces of Sellam's and
Erik's web sites. So instead they each send me their
top three or four ads on alternate weeks, which I
publish in the newsletter. Along with the ads there's
a link that says "click here for more," taking readers
to their respective sites.
So as you can see, we've revamped the old Classic Tech
E-Letter into something that's fresh, consistent, and
clearly carving out its own niche.
Besides the few of us behind the scenes, we also
solicit guest writers. For example, Visicalc legend
Dan Bricklin gave us a column, as did the Digibarn's
Bruce Damer. Macintosh inventor Jef Raskin did an
interview with us. We interviewed the CTO of
Hewlett-Packard's printer division, and even IBM's
David Bradley -- better known as the guy who invented
Ctrl-Alt-Delete. We also went to suburban
Philadelphia to write about a video game conference.
We currently have about 450 subscribers. On our
informational site, which is
news.computercollector.com, there is additional
content. There's a computer history bookstore, a
small but growing page of tales from collectors, an
events calendar, a summary of our articles to date,
and yes, some lame Google ads to help us pay for the
hosting.
Anyway, the newsletter is FREE, and if you subscribe
we promise to never, ever give away your email address
or send you spam. We also would love to have some of
you write guest columns. The slate is wide open;
write about anything you're passionate about in the
hobby. If you're not a writer, then just send us your
ideas for articles, and/or news we should be aware of.
Sometimes, we'll make factual mistakes, and we promise
to be vigilant about identifying and correcting those.
As I told Sellam, I respect and fear that most of the
readers of the classiccmp lists know way more about
computer history than I ever will. So please bear
with us when, not if, we mess up.
Thanks for taking this time to read this long message.
To subscribe to the newsletter, go to our site
(again, that's news.computercollector.com), click the
subscribe link, and just put in your email address.
Thanks again,
Evan Koblentz
PS -- I live in Cambridge, Massachusetts. If you
visit the area and want to chat about vintage
computing over a drink, I'm always interested.