- test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org - classiccmp.org

by heyrick＠merseymail.com

Hello, I would be interested in any details you have regarding the Acorn teletext adapter. To find out why, look at: http://www.heyrick.co.uk/software/ttx/ Thank you, Rick. -- Richard Murray <heyrick(a)merseymail.com> -------------------------------------------------------------------- FREE eLearning courses for Merseyside SMEs Register NOW at: http://www.training.connect.org.uk/elearning-mm/ Improve your productivity, profitability and competitiveness through learning

21 years, 12 months

3
2
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truckload of PDP stuff

by RCini＠congressfinancial.com

What's more astounding is the number of page views: 761. Rich Original Message----- From: cctalk-bounces+AEA-classiccmp.org +AFs-mailto:cctalk-bounces+AEA-classiccmp.org+AF0-On Behalf Of John Allain Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 4:06 PM To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts Subject: Re: truckload of PDP stuff http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem+ACY-item+AD0-4122358161 Winning bid: US +ACQ-1,275.00 Another, gulp... Successful rescue+ACE- John A.

21 years, 12 months

1
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Vintage Computer shown on Green Acres?

by rdd＠rddavis.org

Tonight, on Green Acres (on the TV Land channel), they're showing a 1950/1960s minicomputer or mainframe with several tape drives, etc. Does anyone know what type of computer it is? The show will probably be repeated sometime tomorrow (probably sometime between 4:30 and 6:30 PM EST, I think). Anyone interested in taking a look to see what it is, or know what it is from tonight's show? -- Copyright (C) 2003 R. D. Davis The difference between humans & other animals: All Rights Reserved | My VAX | an unnatural belief that we're above Nature & www.rddavis.org | runs VMS & | her other creatures, using dogma to justify such 410-744-4900 | doesn't crash!| beliefs and to justify much human cruelty.

21 years, 12 months

4
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QIC80 tapes available

by SUPRDAVE＠aol.com

In a message dated 4/15/2004 6:13:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ehl(a)envirohealthlabs.com writes: << Yes, I am interested in QIC-80 Tapes. Please tell me how many tapes you have in total. Please give me your phone number. I will be pleased to call you. >> I have many types of QIC80 type tapes. Tell me which type (2120XL, 2080,DC2000 for example) and I will check what I have.

21 years, 12 months

1
0
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Flash point, laser fuser and lubrication

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On Apr 14, 19:55, Antonio Carlini wrote: > > I know quite a bit about this actually, because my dad owned > > a fire extinguisher company. The reason you use foam to > > combat a liquid fire is to smother it, > > I've been on the "Fire Warden" course at a local station > precisely once, so I'm afraid that I have to disagree > with you slightly. > > The contents of the extiguisher are entirely immaterial. > The extinguisher is just there to act as a propellant :-) > And the powder ones are allegedly good for annoying the > neighbours and rendering anything in the room utterly > useless in the future. I couldn't possibly admit to knowing ;-) > It's a pity that page about lighting a barbie with LOX > has been taken down ... You've been watching Brainiac, haven't you? BTW, did anyone tape "The Best of Brainiac" on Sky last night? -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

21 years, 12 months

1
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Proxim RangeLAN2/ISA card?

by melamy＠earthlink.net

absolutely proprietary. Proxim created what was called the Open Air standard and it predates 802.11b. It will only talk to another Proxim PC Card, ISA bus card, or PCI bus card that is made by Proxim. best regards, Steve Thatcher >--- Original Message --- >From: "Joe R." <rigdonj(a)cfl.rr.com> >To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org >Date: 4/14/04 7:01:54 PM > I found one of these today. Is anyone familar with them? This one is a 16 >bit ISA card and I can't find anything about this model on the net. Does >anyone know if it's compatible with the current wireless LAN cards? > > Jo

21 years, 12 months

1
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Apple DiskTwin card?

by rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com

I gound one of a Disktwin card made for the Apple computer today. It was made by Golden Triangle Computers. From what I can find on the net it was used to write to TWO hard drives simultanously. Is anyone familar with it? I'd like to know more about it. Joe

21 years, 12 months

1
0
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CAD software..

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On Apr 14, 10:09, ben franchuk wrote: > Paul Koning wrote: > > > You mean you want the tools used to be open source? If you find any, > > please let us all know -- I have looked and found nothing. > > The tools would be nice open source. No I want my data open source > as much as possible. > Ben. http://bach.ece.jhu.edu/~haceaton/pcb/ It's been around for years. -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

21 years, 12 months

3
2
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HP-UX 10.20

by Michel.Arghiriu＠cdicorp.com

Hi I need 10.20 and all compliers can you help me. ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________

21 years, 12 months

1
0
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Flash point, laser fuser and lubrication

by cb＠mythtech.net

>The contents of the extiguisher are entirely immaterial. >The extinguisher is just there to act as a propellant so >that you can amuse yourself pushing burning cardboard >boxes and/or burning wastebins around while awaiting the >professionals. They bring huge hoses so they can make >the burning stuff really fly :-) And Water Can extinguishers are for chasing people around and soaking them on hot days (or in the dead of winter). And CO2 is used to chill beers, and spray at probies to watch them scream like little girls. (or at the probies girlfriends to give them hard nipples, insuring that they will never return, and we will all later bitch, while drinking our chilled beers, that we can never get women to hang out at the station). -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

21 years, 12 months

1
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QIC80 tapes available

by ehl＠envirohealthlabs.com

Yes, I am interested in QIC-80 Tapes. Please tell me how many tapes you have in total. Please give me your phone number. I will be pleased to call you. Thanks. Vino Vinod

21 years, 12 months

1
0
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Flash point, laser fuser and lubrication

by cb＠mythtech.net

>No, if there were too little (but there was enough oxygen and heat) it >would flash off. Too little fuel is never a reason for something not >to ignite, though it may prevent sustained burning. Um, yeah, I believe that is what I said on the very first reply of mine. It wouldn't catch fire, or not for more than a fraction of a second. The concern on the original poster was clearly, would the oil catch fire and cause a problem. My response was, no, chances are there is too little fuel to create a sustained chemical reaction (ie: start a fire). Flashing off, won't cause a fire. Chances are, you won't even notice it did it (other than possibly smell the by products). And depending on the amount of oil, and what exactly the oil is made of, it may never get the chance to even flash off... it may "smoke off" instead. As the heat of the fuser raises to the flash point, the oil becomes unstable and starts to break down and oxidize. You wind up with smoke (incomplete combustion), and all potential fuel may in fact oxidize before flashing, leaving nothing to ultimately flash. (hence the idea, too little fuel, no fire). >Three things: chemical reaction is implicit in fuel+oxygen (and >activation energy). Unless you get into esoteric things like >substances that interfere with the reaction (like some CFCs can), >because they change the activation energy. No, it is four things. It USED to be considered three things... then fire science got smarter, and realized that chemical reactions, although implied in the oxidation process, are a VERY important process of the fire. And attacking it is more common then people thought. In fact, most normal people that fight a fire are probably in fact attacking the chemical reaction. Dry Chemical extinguishers don't actually smother a fire like many people assume, they inhibit oxidation... ie: they break the chemical reaction. At least here in the USA, Dry Chemical extinguishers are the most popular form of fire extinguisher found in homes and offices (standard ABC are Dry Chem in the USA). Normal "civilian" ways of combating a kitchen fire: Spray it with water: removes heat Dry Chemical "ABC" extinguisher: stops chemical reaction Towel over the fire: removes oxygen Turn off the gas on the stove: removes fuel >I know quite a bit about this actually, because my dad owned a fire >extinguisher company. Ahh... ok, had I known that, I might have been more specific in my use of terms and explanations. I figured I was trying to make this a little more "layman's". I myself have been a fire fighter for 13 years... so I hope I know something about the nature of fire (if not, I've wasted an awful lot of time in classes, and been darn lucky with all the fires I've gone up against). >The reason you use foam to combat a liquid fire >is to smother it, because with an established fire, it's unlikely you >can get enough water to cool it fast enough, without spreading the >burning liquid around. Exactly. (Sorry, I didn't explain the reason behind it, because I didn't realize I was talking to someone that cared). >The petrol in bucket of water trick works >because the petrol layer is very thin and the water prevents it getting >hot enough before the match goes out. Except you forget about vaporization. Gasoline (petrol) vaporizes readily at standard atmospheric pressure. If you wait for too long before tossing that match into the bucket, you won't be igniting the fuel on the water, you will be igniting the fuel vapors hovering over the water. The water won't stop the heat of the match if the match is still 4 inches above the surface. The vapors ignite... and you get a nice POP and flash as they expand out of the top of the bucket. I wouldn't want to be standing over it when that happens. Depending on how much petrol you use, this could be fun to do... like I said... you do it, I'll video tape. :-) -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

21 years, 12 months

1
0
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Flash point, laser fuser and lubrication

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On Apr 14, 9:53, chris wrote: > >That's a very poor test, > > Its not the most ideal, but I wanted to recommend something he could try > easily to give him a quick and dirty answer. > > >and the quantity is not what matters to the > >chemicals partaking (or not) in the reaction :-) The local heat > >capacity is. > > Wrong. You need sufficient fuel to oxygen mix. Too little fuel or too > little o2, and it won't burn. My guess (and it was a guess, based on what > I know about fires), is the 3 in 1 oil that was on the fuser was too low > of a quantity to burn freely. No, if there were too little (but there was enough oxygen and heat) it would flash off. Too little fuel is never a reason for something not to ignite, though it may prevent sustained burning. > The heat capacity is but one factor in starting and sustaining a fire. > There are 4 parts needed for a fire: fuel, oxygen, heat, chemical > reaction. Remove any one, the fire goes out. Three things: chemical reaction is implicit in fuel+oxygen (and activation energy). Unless you get into esoteric things like substances that interfere with the reaction (like some CFCs can), because they change the activation energy. > >Pour half a cup of petrol (er, gasoline) into a bucket > >of water, drop in a match, and watch the match go out... > > You do that... I'll video tape. I know quite a bit about this actually, because my dad owned a fire extinguisher company. The reason you use foam to combat a liquid fire is to smother it, because with an established fire, it's unlikely you can get enough water to cool it fast enough, without spreading the burning liquid around. The petrol in bucket of water trick works because the petrol layer is very thin and the water prevents it getting hot enough before the match goes out. -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

21 years, 12 months

3
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S-100 System For Sale (CT - USA)

by classiccmp＠vintage-computer.com

Another one: Brian Toubman is selling a very nice, complete S-100 system. The system is located in Connecticut. Please contact him directly if you are interested in the system. More details can be found at http://vintage-computer.com/vcforum/viewtopic.php?t=915 I have nothing to do with this item or the seller. I am just passing this on for the benefit of the list (and, obviously, the seller.) Erik Klein www.vintage-computer.com www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum The Vintage Computer Forum

21 years, 12 months

1
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Tandy 1000TX available for the cost of shipping

by classiccmp＠vintage-computer.com

Rosann (rosann1224(a)rcn.com) is looking to donate her Tandy 1000TX system to a collector for the cost of postage. Please contact her directly if you are interested in the system. More details can be found at http://vintage-computer.com/vcforum/viewtopic.php?t=911 I have nothing to do with this item or the seller. I am just passing this on for the benefit of the list. Erik Klein www.vintage-computer.com www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum The Vintage Computer Forum

21 years, 12 months

1
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IPC Peripherals MCD-1040 4X 7 disc CD changer

by vanmuta＠socket.net

I noticed on a message board that in June of 2003 you posted that you had found an instruction manual for an IPC MCD-1040 7 disc changer. Do you happen to still have the manual, and did you ever get any responses for what kind of cables it used? I recently came upon one the units myself and was wondering the same thing. Kris

21 years, 12 months

1
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blinkenlight console - not only for PDP's !

by GOOI＠oce.nl

Hi all, I finally had some time to work on my "homebrew console" project. It is not yet finished, but the progress is significant enough to report to this group. I completed the wiring of the new sleak design PDP-11/35 console, and debugged the "firmware" of the Motorola M6802 microprocessor. After the console seemed to work as I wanted it (...) [using the built-in debug monitor], it was time to turn to the current SIMH version (3.2-0). I ported my previous thoughts of version 2.10 to this current release, and debugged a little more :-) The progress so far: 1) set the switches to any address, press "LOAD ADRS". result: the position of the switches appears on the ADDRESS LEDs. 2) set the switches [15:0] to any value, press "DEP". result: - the data is stored in the (previously loaded) address. - the data appears on the DATA LEDs. 3) press "EXAM" result: - the address is shown on the ADDRESS LEDs, - the data of this address is shown on the DATA LEDs. 4) when "EXAM" is pressed again after "EXAM" result: the next address is shown (address and data) 5) when "DEP" is pressed again after "DEP" result: the data is stored in the next address. 6) when "EXAM" and "DEP" are toggled following each other result: the address is not incremented. So, LOAD, EXAM, and DEP react as the REAL CONSOLE in combination with the patched SIMH software ! More testing will be done. I thought this progress was nice to mention here; the following items on my list are: - behaviour of CONT, HALT/ENABL, START (and S-STEP!) - ADDRESS and DATA LEDs update automatically when SIMH runs a PDP-11 OS. - shoot a short .mpg to show an "idle pattern" of the console when it is not connected, running in "stand-alone mode". Check www.pdp-11.nl and click the link [homebrew 'PDP-11'] at the left. NOTE: I built this console with my PDP-11/35 as example. PDP-11's are my focus of collecting ... The protocol used between the "front-end" and the SIMH software is simple. I do not see any reason why you cannot hook up a PDP-8 console or even any other blinkenlight console (e.g. HP-1000). I real console (from eBay, I do not support the thought of stripping a fine real machine just for the console ...!) could also be connected, it is just a matter of wiring the switches and the toggles. If there is sufficient interest, I *might* think of designing a lay-out of a single board that contains the CPU and the I/O. Depends on how many of you have interest in this project to keep the cost low. If somebody works where he/she has easy access to a PC lay-out program and etch option (double-sided PCB, with metalisation through the holes), I will gladly assist and provide answers for any related question. kind regards, - Henk, PA8PDP

21 years, 12 months

6
14
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PDP 11/40, VT50 or VT52, LA36

by wacarder＠usit.net

My problem is that I don't have a lot to trade. I do have an old Western Union Baudot (I think 5 bit) teletype machine that I think I'm going to get rid of, but it was mostly for use by deaf people who used it to communicate over the telephone and doesn't interface (as far as I know) to a computer. I have only recently been seriously considering locating an 11/40 and associated peripherals, now that I have a place where I could set it up and work on it. I recently moved from the city back to the country and I built a 30' by 60' building / shop behind my house. Inside I closed off a portion that is climate controlled, which is a good place to house an 11/40. What kind of condition is your spare LA36 in? I suppose I could start my collection with an LA36 and continue searching for an 11/40 to go with it! :-) Ashley -----Original Message----- From: Jay West <jwest(a)classiccmp.org> Sent: Apr 14, 2004 11:29 AM To: Ashley Carder <wacarder(a)usit.net>, "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org> Subject: Re: PDP 11/40, VT50 or VT52, LA36 I have a spare LA36 (maybe an LA120, but I think it's an LA36) located in St. Louis I'd trade off. Jay ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ashley Carder" <wacarder(a)usit.net> To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 10:19 AM Subject: PDP 11/40, VT50 or VT52, LA36 > Does anyone on this list have any of the following > items that they would be interested in getting rid of: > > PDP 11/40 with rack and RK05 drive(s) > VT50 or VT52 DecScope > LA36 Decwriter > RK05 pack with RSTS/E > > I would like to attempt to reconstruct the computer > that my friends and I used in college from 1975-80. > Our former professor who was also director of the > computer center and is now retired has indicated that > he might offer some assistance in reconstructing the > environment if we can find a PDP 11/40. Our college > junked their 11/40 in 1989 or shortly thereafter. The > new generation of computer people there "cleaned up" > old junk and threw away anything that was left from > the 11/40 that we knew and loved. > > We have created a pretty faithful replica using Bob > Supnik's emulator and have it available via TELNET > on the internet. Several of us had complete prints > from the late 70s of all the source programs on the > system. It was running RSTS/E with Basic Plus. It took > a while to find someone with a soft copy of the > Basic Plus version of ADVENTure, but I was able to get > a copy from someone who was in Project Delta and > have loaded that to our RK05 disk image for our > simulated 11/40. > > We would like to get our hands on the real hardware > so we can feel the heat and hear the fans whirring > once again! > > Thanks for any and all help that anyone can provide! > > Ashley > --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

21 years, 12 months

2
1
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truckload of PDP stuff

by wacarder＠usit.net

I'm interested in the 11/40 Unibus stuff. I just joined the list and I started another thread with this same title. Do you know if anyone's actually seen the stuff in this lot? I'm wondering what kind of condition it's in. Ashley -----Original Message----- From: John Allain <allain(a)panix.com> Sent: Apr 14, 2004 11:25 AM To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org> Subject: Re: truckload of PDP stuff I'm more of a Qbus guy, and this looks to be all Unibus. (Though I do have 2 Unibussers) Someone on the list has contacted me stating his intent to be the winning bidder. Perhaps he (BCC'ed herein) should make his name public so people can sub-bid to him for individual machines in the lot. John A.

21 years, 12 months

1
0
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Truckload of PDP stuff

by wacarder＠usit.net

Also.... I am in South Carolina, so I will not be able to help retrieve/load/etc, but I am interested in coordinating with others in purchasing some of the PDP-11 items if we can work it out. Ashley -----Original Message----- From: wacarder(a)usit.net Sent: Apr 14, 2004 9:25 AM To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org Subject: Truckload of PDP stuff I'm new to this mailing list, but have been following it for a month or more. I'm interested in the 11/40 from the truckload of stuff. I have been wanting to reconstruct a replica of my college computer from the late 1970s. I have recreated it in Bob Supnik's simulator, but would like to be able to get my hands on the real stuff! Has anyone actually seen the stuff in that "truckload"? Ashley Carder

21 years, 12 months

1
0
0 0

Flash point, laser fuser and lubrication

by cb＠mythtech.net

>That's a very poor test, Its not the most ideal, but I wanted to recommend something he could try easily to give him a quick and dirty answer. >and the quantity is not what matters to the >chemicals partaking (or not) in the reaction :-) The local heat >capacity is. Wrong. You need sufficient fuel to oxygen mix. Too little fuel or too little o2, and it won't burn. My guess (and it was a guess, based on what I know about fires), is the 3 in 1 oil that was on the fuser was too low of a quantity to burn freely. That does NOT mean it won't smolder, it just means you won't get a flame. I'd expect that there was a negligible amount of oil actually on the fuser. The heat capacity is but one factor in starting and sustaining a fire. There are 4 parts needed for a fire: fuel, oxygen, heat, chemical reaction. Remove any one, the fire goes out. All 4 have to be in the correct "zone" for a fire to happen (what that zone is differs based on fuel) >The concrete keeps the oil much cooler than is required >to *sustain* burning, That's actually the point of using it. It won't sustain burning. When the heat source is removed, the fire will go out on its own. However, a match (which burns upward of 1000 degrees) will be sufficient to test the 320 degree limit of the oil to see if there is enough fuel to start a fire. >Pour half a cup of petrol (er, gasoline) into a bucket >of water, drop in a match, and watch the match go out... You do that... I'll video tape. Gasoline floats on water, unless you chase that cup of gas with the match, the gas will rapidly move to the surface and start vaporizing. Your match will probably ignite the fumes half way into the bucket, resulting in a nice POP as the remaining gas bursts into flame... right on the surface of the water. Should be for a fun video to watch. (we carry foam on our fire trucks specifically to combat situations like gasoline fires... if you have a gasoline fire, DO NOT add water... you just end up with a bigger gasoline fire.) -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

21 years, 12 months

1
0
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Truckload of PDP stuff

by wacarder＠usit.net

I'm new to this mailing list, but have been following it for a month or more. I'm interested in the 11/40 from the truckload of stuff. I have been wanting to reconstruct a replica of my college computer from the late 1970s. I have recreated it in Bob Supnik's simulator, but would like to be able to get my hands on the real stuff! Has anyone actually seen the stuff in that "truckload"? Ashley Carder

21 years, 12 months

1
0
0 0

Monitor on SGI Indy

by phirkel＠sympatico.ca

Hi there. I got a few SGI Indys recently, and I would like to get them to work. I do not have a Sync on Green monitor, however, I have read that the Indy outputs a composite signal, not unlike Sun hardware. I have a Sun 13w3 adaptor (which I know does not work in pristine state with the SGI machine), and I would like to use it to connect my Samsung SyncMaster 750s to my Indy. *http://groups.google.com/groups?q=Sun+13W3+SGI+Indy&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&selm=3C9C795E.60FCC62%40freenet.de&rnum=6 <--* I found this reference to the pinout of Sun and SGI equipment...but I can't make heads or tails of what I would to to the adaptor to make it work with my monitor. Thanks, Phil.

21 years, 12 months

2
1
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Removing physical blemishes from CRT?

by vcf＠siconic.com

Although the CRT in question is off-topic, the question is fairly topical: Is there any way to remove physical blemishes from the face of a CRT? I've got a very nice 19" SVGA display that has some scratches on the face. They are somewhat invisible unless you happen to be looking at something at that part of the screen (lower third, right of center). Can this be buffed out or ... ? I hope there's a way to do this because I've been wanting to fix the face of my 35" ProScan TV that has the same problem. You barely notice it, but it is slightly distracting when you do. -- Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org [ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ] [ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]

21 years, 12 months

6
8
0 0

Flash point, laser fuser and lubrication

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On Apr 14, 1:16, der Mouse wrote: > > Sorry, I don't know what white spirit is called in the > > States, it's similar to kerosene but lighter and leaves no residue. > > It's most often used here for thinning oil-based paints, or cleaning > > paint brushes. > > This is probably the substance I (brought up in the USA of USA parents) > learned to call "mineral spirits". That sounds imminently plausible -- thanks! -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

21 years, 12 months

1
0
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Flash point, laser fuser and lubrication

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On Apr 13, 11:48, R. D. Davis wrote: > Last night, I made the mistake of putting some 3-in-1 oil (yes, I > know, it's not a good lubricant) in the bushings around the teflon > roller (that the heater lamp runs through) in my Laserjet II when I > disassembled the fuser to replace a worn 14-tooth gear. I should have > done a more thorough disassembly and used grease rated for use with > high temperatures... anyway, what concerns me is the low flash point > for the 3-in-1 (if what's in the can I used is the same as the spray; > the spray is all I could find data for, flash point about 101 degrees > F). 3-in-1 oil is a perfectly good light machine oil. It *is* a good lubricant -- for the things it was designed for. You shouldn't have used it where you did, but neither should you have used grease; teflon bearings are designed to run dry against polished steel. I'd expect the flash point of the spray is so low because of the propellant. The flash point of the oil itself will be much higher. However, you don't really want it in there. The best thing to do is to disassemble it again and wipe off as much as you can. If necessary, white spirit (turpentine substitute) will wash out the residue. Sorry, I don't know what white spirit is called in the States, it's similar to kerosene but lighter and leaves no residue. It's most often used here for thinning oil-based paints, or cleaning paint brushes. -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

21 years, 12 months

2
1
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Flash point, laser fuser and lubrication

by mpokorni2000＠yahoo.com

The low flash point of spray is more than likely coming from vehicle used for spray. As for 3-in-1 oil, I heard there is nothing predictable in that, they just put any old thing that is at hand; stuff is intended for household use. A lubrication guy, who is also on Tecscope group, was saying that most of content of 3-in-1 is vegetable oil. Those oils oxidize easily in air, what leads to gumming up and higher temperature just speeds up the process. Regards Miroslav Pokorni

21 years, 12 months

1
0
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Removing physical blemishes from CRT?

by mpokorni2000＠yahoo.com

The 3M have a material for polishing glass in form similar to Scotchbrite. I do not know the exact name but I believe it is a variation on Scotchbrite. Actually, material is Scotchbrite with polishing powder imbedded. I heard of people using it to polish out scratches on eyeglasses. Regards Miroslav Pokorni

21 years, 12 months

1
0
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Pre-R3000 SGIs

by aek＠spies.com

SGI started out as a startup based on Jim Clark's Geometry Engine work at Stanford in the early 80's. The earliest products were based on the SUN (Stanford University Network) CPU board design with some enhancements. http://futuretech.mirror.vuurwerk.net/iris-faq.html appears to be the only copy of the original FAQ I helped with years ago.

21 years, 12 months

2
1
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Z80 disassembler for Linux

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Scott Stevens" <sastevens(a)earthlink.net> > >On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 16:08:17 -0400 >Jim Donoghue <jim(a)smithy.com> wrote: > >> I'm trying to find a Z80 disassembler for Linux. There are a bunch of >> DOS ones out there, doesn't do me any good. A long time ago I had >> downloaded one that was source and compiled it, but I can't remember >> what it was. Anybody know of one? >> >> Jim > >Anything as simple as a Z80 disassembler is a stdin/stdout app anyway. Hi It is interesting that my definition of a disassembler is quite a bit different than yours. I would call this a code lister. A disassembler includes comments, selecting data types, labeling branching and entry points and statistical cross referencing ( usually as comments in code ). This is often an interactive process. I guess writing one's own disassemblers tends to spoil a person. Dwight

21 years, 12 months

8
8
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Flash point, laser fuser and lubrication

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On Apr 13, 14:43, chris wrote: > >Correction. I just learned that the flash point for 3-in-1 oil is 305 > >degrees Fahrenheit. If I recall correctly, the Laserjet II's fuser is > >heated to 320 degrees F., so... still, not good. > > put a little on a non flammable surface (like concrete), just a small > amount (comparable to what you put on the fuser)... touch a match to it. > If it doesn't ignite, you should be good to go on the fuser. Matches burn > hotter than 305 degrees. (do NOT do this test on a flammable surface or > with anything like a cup or cap of oil... given enough fuel/O2 mix, the > match will ignite the oil, and not in a very nice manner) That's a very poor test, and the quantity is not what matters to the chemicals partaking (or not) in the reaction :-) The local heat capacity is. The concrete keeps the oil much cooler than is required to *sustain* burning, and the hot fuser is not comparable to a slab of cold concrete. Pour half a cup of petrol (er, gasoline) into a bucket of water, drop in a match, and watch the match go out... -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

21 years, 12 months

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Flash point, laser fuser and lubrication

by rdd＠rddavis.org

Last night, I made the mistake of putting some 3-in-1 oil (yes, I know, it's not a good lubricant) in the bushings around the teflon roller (that the heater lamp runs through) in my Laserjet II when I disassembled the fuser to replace a worn 14-tooth gear. I should have done a more thorough disassembly and used grease rated for use with high temperatures... anyway, what concerns me is the low flash point for the 3-in-1 (if what's in the can I used is the same as the spray; the spray is all I could find data for, flash point about 101 degrees F). When the printer warms up for a few seconds, there's some smoke. I was thinking that it might just smoke a bit and then eventually stop smoking, but I remember, all too well, the time I accidentally spilled some motor oil on a hot exhaust manifold when I stopped at a service station on the way to pick up my PDP-11/73 system years ago... fortunately a rag was able to be used to put out the flames, and I do mean big bright yellow flames, quickly before any damage was done. Is this 3-in-1 oil likely to do the same thing in the fuser assembly? If it wasn't raining outside, I'd be tempted to put said oil on an old fuser assembly with a scratched up roller, with all useable parts removed, take it outside, apply power to it, and see what happens. -- Copyright (C) 2003 R. D. Davis The difference between humans & other animals: All Rights Reserved | My VAX | an unnatural belief that we're above Nature & www.rddavis.org | runs VMS & | her other creatures, using dogma to justify such 410-744-4900 | doesn't crash!| beliefs and to justify much human cruelty.

21 years, 12 months

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Assorted free comms gear etc. (Milton Keynes, UK)

by julesrichardsonuk＠yahoo.co.uk

Hi, Somebody dropped off the following items (operational condition unknown) to the Bletchley Park computer museum the other week which we can't really make any use of: Two Racal Milgo Omnimux 82 advanced statistical multiplexors An ACT SDM-T (seems to convert several analogue phone lines to digital) An X-TEC Protocol Converter A Wellfleet Access Node Communications Server Large industrial rack system with 5" VGA display, Colorado 1440 tape drive, 3.5" floppy, PSU, and a huge backplane containing 4 PCI slots and 15 ISA slots. We actually have two units, but may be keeping the screen >from one of them as it could prove useful for something at a later date - maybe the backplane and chassis is still useful to someone though. I believe there's the PC-on-a-card board kicking around the office from one of the racks, the other one arrived with a bare backplane though. They're free to a good home; comms gear isn't really my thing so I just grabbed what was on the front labels - if any of the above sounds like it could be useful to anyone I can always get more details as to exact model numbers, what interfaces they have etc. cheers Jules

21 years, 12 months

2
1
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12/1148

by cara.keir＠nessco.co.uk

I am looking for 1 x part number 21-17311-01 cpu1 processor. Our company is based in the UK. Can you supply this part. Best Regards Cara Keir Internal Sales On behalf of Nessco Limited Tel no: +44 1224 414143 Fax no: +44 1224 414192 Email:? cara.keir(a)nessco.co.uk "The information contained in this message is sent in the strictest confidence and may contain confidential or privileged information intended for use of the addressee only.? If you have received this message in error please delete it and any attachments and notify the sender immediately."

21 years, 12 months

2
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Flash point, laser fuser and lubrication

by cb＠mythtech.net

>Correction. I just learned that the flash point for 3-in-1 oil is 305 >degrees Fahrenheit. If I recall correctly, the Laserjet II's fuser is >heated to 320 degrees F., so... still, not good. put a little on a non flammable surface (like concrete), just a small amount (comparable to what you put on the fuser)... touch a match to it. If it doesn't ignite, you should be good to go on the fuser. Matches burn hotter than 305 degrees. (do NOT do this test on a flammable surface or with anything like a cup or cap of oil... given enough fuel/O2 mix, the match will ignite the oil, and not in a very nice manner) You may not have sufficient fuel to start a chemical reaction. Unless you soaked the part in oil. However, regardless of the flammability... its going to smoke, and that's neither going to smell good, or be very healthy. So you'll probably want to break it down, clean it, and replace it with a high temp grease anyway. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

21 years, 12 months

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Removing physical blemishes from CRT?

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

Hi If it is a TV, the front is a protective glass and is not under the tension of the vacuum. Most CRT's for scopes expect there to be a plastic ridicule in front to protect, so doesn't have any protective glass. The glass used on TV's is ordinary plate glass and not tempered so it can handle scratches without failing. Even a crack will not propagate to the inside glass. Dwight >From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk >> >> >> >> Although the CRT in question is off-topic, the question is fairly topical: >> >> Is there any way to remove physical blemishes from the face of a CRT? >> I've got a very nice 19" SVGA display that has some scratches on the face. >> They are somewhat invisible unless you happen to be looking at something >> at that part of the screen (lower third, right of center). >> >> Can this be buffed out or ... ? >> >> I hope there's a way to do this because I've been wanting to fix the face >> of my 35" ProScan TV that has the same problem. You barely notice it, but >> it is slightly distracting when you do. > >If the scratches are minor, so the CRT faceplate is not significantly >weakend, then there are kits available for polishing car windscreenss >(Oh, OK, auto windshields, right?). They'd probably help. > >If the CRT faceplate is weakened, then replace that CRT before it implodes! > >-tony >

21 years, 12 months

2
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Installing SRM version 3.12 on HP9000/300 machine

by keith＠saracom.com

Quick question, Can one install the SRM OS on a 300 series workstation? I think I have a Model 360 (it has a 68030 processor, 68882 co-processor, scsi, lan etc). Anyway, I have a 9144 tape drive and when I try to boot the SRM tape, it lists it as booting and then blanks the screen and resets. When I use a hard drive with Basic 5.13, it boots fine. Am I doing something wrong or does SRM only work with the HP9826 and similar? Thanks Max

21 years, 12 months

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Removing physical blemishes from CRT?

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

Hi Bill This is a good point. Any polishing will stand out unless the entire surface is polished. One might even try getting a little varithane mat finish on a rag and wipe a little over the scratch. Then wipe around it with some thinner to remove any excess. It doesn't have exactly the same index of refraction but it would help hide the scratch. Dwight >From: "William Maddox" <wmaddox(a)pacbell.net> > >Does the monitor have an anti-glare coating? The various suggestions >posted for buffing out the damage would seem applicable to an ordinary >glass screen such as I have seen on older/cheaper small-screen monitors, >but most newer and large screen monitors have some kind of anti-glare >coating. The best ones use a metallic coating that is easily damaged and >looks bad when it is scratched off. You should conside whether removing >it will make matters worse. Some cheaper anti-glare treatments just put a >matte finish on the glass, and might not suffer quite so badly. > >--Bill > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com> >To: "Classic Computers Mailing List" <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org> >Sent: Monday, April 12, 2004 6:43 PM >Subject: Removing physical blemishes from CRT? > > >> >> Although the CRT in question is off-topic, the question is fairly topical: >> >> Is there any way to remove physical blemishes from the face of a CRT? >> I've got a very nice 19" SVGA display that has some scratches on the face. >> They are somewhat invisible unless you happen to be looking at something >> at that part of the screen (lower third, right of center). >> >> Can this be buffed out or ... ? >> >> I hope there's a way to do this because I've been wanting to fix the face >> of my 35" ProScan TV that has the same problem. You barely notice it, but >> it is slightly distracting when you do. >> >> -- >> >> Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org >> >> [ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ] >> [ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ] >

21 years, 12 months

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CS/80 protocol

by aek＠spies.com

> Has anyone ever scanned this manual? www.bitsavers.org/pdf/hp/disc/5955-3342_cs80-is-pm.pdf

21 years, 12 months

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Removing physical blemishes from CRT?

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com> > >On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Dwight K. Elvey wrote: > >> It takes quite a bit of elbow grease but yes, it can be done. >> Usually you use some 10 to 20 micron aluminum oxide to fine >> grind until you are past the scratch. Then you use rouge or >> cerium oxide to polish. It is a process similar to what we do >> to make a telescope mirror. > >Do I have to worry about any heat build-up that might cause a fracture of >some sort? > >So sounds good so far. Can I just go to the local telescope store and >pick up the materials? Can I use my Dremel to do the polishing for me? > >-- > >Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival > Hi Sellam You might check at places like stained glass supply stores or places the do beveled glass. They have polishing compounds that are designed to be used with a buffing wheel. The technics I used are designed to end up with a surface that is smooth to less than 1/8 wavelength of light. You don't need anything like that for a screen. Most telescope stores don't have supplies for doing mirrors. I mail order my supplies from places like Newport Glass or William-Bell. Check with places that sell and repair window glass. If they don't have anything there, they'll at least know where to get it. Dwight

21 years, 12 months

1
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Pre-R3000 SGIs

by torquil＠chemist.com

Does anyone have more information about the first SGI machines? I know they made m68k before the R2000. Anyone actually have one or have more information about SGIs 1980s (not 70s I presume?) history? -------- Thanks, Torquil MacCorkle, III Lexington, Virginia

21 years, 12 months

4
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AIX PS/2 v1.2 - four sets of 3.5" floppies in binders

by Stephen_R_Gentry＠LafayetteLife.com

Jack, hello. I came across a rather old email regarding aix for ps/2 that you apparently owned. I'm contacting you on the slim chance to see if you still had these items and if so, are they still for sale? Thanks, Steve Gentry

21 years, 12 months

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blinkenlight console - not only for PDP's !

by uban＠ubanproductions.com

Nice job Henk! --tom

21 years, 12 months

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Looking for a slew of manuals ($$$)

by vcf＠siconic.com

I'm seeking manuals for the following products for a client: Probe X [from the Strategic Software Group] HP GlancePlus HP PerfView HP OpenView IBM Tivoli IBM Netview Have you got these? Cool! Let's talk. Send me a message in private e-mail. Thanks! -- Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org [ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ] [ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]

21 years, 12 months

1
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Flight Simulator for IRIX

by phirkel＠sympatico.ca

Hi there folks. Way back in the day, 1992 or so, I used to play on my father's SGI Indigo R3000 at work (the very one which sits beside me at this time; the story about how I got it is pretty good, ask if you want to hear it) a flight simulator. The graphics were nothing special, but I do remember you could fire missiles at targets. Any other details are blurry now, especially since it has been 12 years since I played that game! I was wondering if anyone remembered such a game, and possibly it's name and maybe direct me in the direction as to where I could get a copy. If you have a copy to sell, I have a PayPal account and money in it to spend! Thank you! Phil.

21 years, 12 months

2
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Paging Ed Sharpe

by vcf＠siconic.com

Ed, You've not responded to my messages regarding the DPS-6. At this point I'm assuming you're not getting them for some reason, but if you don't reply to this one by tomorrow then I'll assume you're no longer interested and will go to the next in line. -- Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org [ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ] [ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]

21 years, 12 months

2
2
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Removing physical blemishes from CRT?

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com> > > >Although the CRT in question is off-topic, the question is fairly topical: > >Is there any way to remove physical blemishes from the face of a CRT? >I've got a very nice 19" SVGA display that has some scratches on the face. >They are somewhat invisible unless you happen to be looking at something >at that part of the screen (lower third, right of center). > >Can this be buffed out or ... ? > >I hope there's a way to do this because I've been wanting to fix the face >of my 35" ProScan TV that has the same problem. You barely notice it, but >it is slightly distracting when you do. > >-- > >Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival Hi Sellam It takes quite a bit of elbow grease but yes, it can be done. Usually you use some 10 to 20 micron aluminum oxide to fine grind until you are past the scratch. Then you use rouge or cerium oxide to polish. It is a process similar to what we do to make a telescope mirror. Dwight

21 years, 12 months

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Parallel Key boards

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

Hi For anyone wanting a parallel keyboard for their old project machine or someone wanting to connect to a Polymorphic video board, there is a pair of keyboards on ebay at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1247&item=4122846529 I've bought two of these myself and they are excellent quality keyboards. I have no other connection with the seller. The boards are early 80's vintage and use a 8051 technology. The key field appears to be capacitive so it should last a long time. They run on a single +5V. Dwight

21 years, 12 months

1
0
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FREE: NetFRAME NS400

by evan947＠yahoo.com

Hi all, Doug Ricci, who works in IT at the Johns Hopkins Dept. of Radiology, is offering a NetFRAME NS400 (s/n D00453) for free. He says it supported more than 150 users on Novell NetWare from 1991-1998 and cost $80,000 when it was new! He added, "We can't sell it-not allowed to. I'd like to give it to a collector..." You can reach Doug at DWRICCI(a)jhmi.edu, please mention that you were referred by me. Thanks, Evan Koblentz

21 years, 12 months

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New vintage computing publication

by news＠computercollector.com

Hi everyone, Having conferred with Jay West, I'd now like to introduce the readers of this mailing list to a new publication, the Computer Collector E-Mail Newsletter. A few of you already know me as evan947@yahoo, the guy who collects handhelds/PDAs. More than a few of you know Michael Nadeau, formerly of Byte magazine, who founded the Classic Tech E-Letter a few years ago. Meanwhile, I and Sellam Ismail (who EVERYONE knows) pondered starting a print magazine for the hobby last fall. Ultimately we decided the hobby just isn't big enough yet to support that. Instead, early this year Mike handed over the reigns of his newsletter to me. For those who don't know me, besides being a computer collector, I (like Mike) am a veteran technology reporter. Paid my dues at Gannett (which owns USA Today and other papers), was a staff engineer at a product review lab for telecom gear, and spent 3.5 years at eWeek (formerly PC Week.) I'm 29 and grew up on Apple and Atari. The first thing I did as the new editor is change the name. I think "Computer Collector E-Mail Newsletter" is more intuitive and will help attractive people who aren't necessarily familiar with our growing hobby. I also changed some of the fundamentals. Before, the newsletter had infrequent publishing, and in each issue an attempt was made to cover all of the news out there. That's a difficult way to run things. So now, the newsletter is published every Monday. Also, in every issue we have one main article (news, opinion, etc.), vs. trying to be a comprehensive news outlet every single week. By "we" I mean myself, Mike, Sellam, and author Christine Finn (Christine's known for writing the book "Articacts: An archeologist's year in Silicon Valley"), and Erik Klein, who runs www.vintage-computer.com. Of course we did not want to overlap with this mailing list. Tech tips are clearly this list's domain. So with the newsletter we're sticking to the root word: news. To be crystral-clear, we're not a forum, and we're not going to duplicate existing efforts. We also didn't want to duplicate fragment the existing online classified ads and marketplaces of Sellam's and Erik's web sites. So instead they each send me their top three or four ads on alternate weeks, which I publish in the newsletter. Along with the ads there's a link that says "click here for more," taking readers to their respective sites. So as you can see, we've revamped the old Classic Tech E-Letter into something that's fresh, consistent, and clearly carving out its own niche. Besides the few of us behind the scenes, we also solicit guest writers. For example, Visicalc legend Dan Bricklin gave us a column, as did the Digibarn's Bruce Damer. Macintosh inventor Jef Raskin did an interview with us. We interviewed the CTO of Hewlett-Packard's printer division, and even IBM's David Bradley -- better known as the guy who invented Ctrl-Alt-Delete. We also went to suburban Philadelphia to write about a video game conference. We currently have about 450 subscribers. On our informational site, which is news.computercollector.com, there is additional content. There's a computer history bookstore, a small but growing page of tales from collectors, an events calendar, a summary of our articles to date, and yes, some lame Google ads to help us pay for the hosting. Anyway, the newsletter is FREE, and if you subscribe we promise to never, ever give away your email address or send you spam. We also would love to have some of you write guest columns. The slate is wide open; write about anything you're passionate about in the hobby. If you're not a writer, then just send us your ideas for articles, and/or news we should be aware of. Sometimes, we'll make factual mistakes, and we promise to be vigilant about identifying and correcting those. As I told Sellam, I respect and fear that most of the readers of the classiccmp lists know way more about computer history than I ever will. So please bear with us when, not if, we mess up. Thanks for taking this time to read this long message. To subscribe to the newsletter, go to our site (again, that's news.computercollector.com), click the subscribe link, and just put in your email address. Thanks again, Evan Koblentz PS -- I live in Cambridge, Massachusetts. If you visit the area and want to chat about vintage computing over a drink, I'm always interested.

21 years, 12 months

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