On December 18, 2009, Normand Fisher wrote:
> Hi Mike,
>
> I have an old 861C (and a 874A) which are very noisy and trigger off
> after a short period under load. Would you, by chance, have a copy of
> the schematics?
>
> Or matter of fact any knowledge as to the cause of noise(old capacitors?
> ...).
Your best bet wouls be to post to Classiccmp Classiccmp mailing list at
cctalk at classiccmp.org.
Most of my DEC manuals are in Storage tub in the garage.
--
Collector of vintage computers http://www.ncf.ca/~ba600
Machines to trade http://www.ncf.ca/~ba600/trade.html
Chuck writes:
> On 18 Dec 2009 at 23:47, Alexandre Souza - Listas wrote:
>> I still think that nothing beats SD. It **will** be the standard
>> in two or three years.
>I'd really like to know that the things will be available in 10 years
>in capacities that will still work what's designed today. Can one,
>for example, still get 16MB CF cards?
>If all that the unit can handle is FAT32, what does one do when the
>only cards available use exFAT?
Rather than try to decide on the "one right way" to do things
going into the future, don't all of us in fact end up diversifying
into what's available now and then shifting up to new interfaces
over time as they become proven?
I mean, ten years ago I was enamored of MO disks as the "one right
way" of storage. It's not that the conclusion was really wrong, but
that's not the way the majority of the market moved. (I note
that medical imaging still is a big user of MO disks.)
Twenty five years ago I might've decided that DEC RC25 carts
were the way to go. Hah! How wrong would that decision would've
proved to be!
What's most astonishing: what used to fit on 10,000 9-track tapes,
literally filling an entire moving truck, now comfortably fits on a
1 terabyte portable hard drive that is just a little bigger than
pocket sized. That's mind-blowing.
Tim.
I just did a search for pdp 8A prom images and could not find
any. I'm sure I just looked in all of the wrong places
Any help, Looking for 158a2 and 159a2
- Jerry
Contact the person below ...
>To: jfoust at threedee.com
>From: Edwina Williams <Wmsedw at aol.com>
>Subject: Old Computer to recycle
>Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 11:43:20 -0500
>
>Dear Jeff,
>
>I have a Maxum 286 turbo computer, which was purchased at 47th Street
>Photo in New York in the 1980's. I believe that Maxum was a 47th
>Street Photo brand. It comes with a Maxum Enhanced keyboard and Amdek
>Video 310A monitor, which has the amber letters. Word Perfect for IBM
>is installed and some other programs. There is also an Epson LG 500
>printer, which takes the paper with holes and also single sheets.
>
>I probably have some of the literature too.
>
>Although the computer was originally a 286, it stopped working at
>some point. I was in graduate school at the time, and spent $900 to
>get all my data back and installed on a new 386 drive. So it is now a
>386.
>
>The computer goes right on, powers up, and works perfectly. It also
>works perfectly with the printer. This old computer was easier to
>write on, and I think I did better writing on it, than the Macbook
>Pro that I use now.
>
>I hate throwing things out that still work, but these have to go. Are
>you interested, or do you know anyone who may be?
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Edwina Williams
I have both an old 861C and a 874A which are very noisy and trigger off
after a short period under load. Would someone, by chance, have a copy of
the schematics?
Or matter of fact any knowledge as to the cause this behavior (old
capacitors? etc...).
Many thanks
Normand
I was thinking recently, and I know that the general threshold for
discussion on this list is ten years, but is that enough?
As it stands, given the rule of a minimum of ten years, most early
Pentium III PeeCees are listworthy for discussion.
I have a Dell OptiPlex GX110 that could be discussed here; the machine
is twelve years old, and if I am not mistaken, twelve is greater than
ten. (For those of you that live in alternate realities in which twelve
is *not* greater than ten, please disregard this whole email.) I also
have an Apple iMac G3 Rev. B that could be listworthy, as it is eleven
years old.
In just two more years time, the world's most popular computer operating
system (as of the time of this email's writing) would be perfectly valid
to discuss, even as "on-topic". 2001 to 2011 is ten years, isn't it?
I know that it's not a strict and absolute rule, being more just a
guideline than anything, but still, is ten years enough?
Personally, I'd give it fifteen, possibly twenty years for some piece of
computing history to be considered listworthy.
Anyone have any information for this early QIC drive? Model DCD3-
30/90. The controller board is pretty simple--just some 7400 series
TTL, made by Solid State Systems. The most complex IC is an AM27S21
1Kbit bipolar PROM. There's a 220/330 terminator pack near the 50
position header, if that's any help.
Is this a QIC-36 interface drive (50 pin header on the controller
board)?
Thanks,
Chuck
Hi,
I got myself a Commodore 16. It worked on Wednesday nicely, then I tried it
again on Friday and it didn't work. It still gives out sync pulses and colour
burst for the video, but there is only a black screen.
Is this the normal fault for a failed TED? Or could it be that the CPU or one
of the ROMs are dead. I'm asking so I don't waste time on something that can't
be fixed (easily).
Cheers,
Alexis.
I donated the picture , I use my own for measurements and want to keep it in my HP-collection.
Like I said, I've a customer who needs one to get his 3D-measure machine online again .
-Rik
-----Original Message-----
From: "James Gessling" <jgessling at yahoo.com>
To: cctalk at classiccmp.org
Sent: 12/18/2009 0:15
Subject: Re: Wanted : HP 82324 language co-processor board
Maybe you could contact the guy who donated one to the hp museum and get it back. On wait, that's you. What happened there? (if I may ask)
http://www.hpmuseum.net/display_item.php?hw=909
Regards, Jim
Marty writes:
> Does anyone from here have scans or originals of program documents
> from DECUS Catalogs for PDP software from the 60's and 70's? The
> IGDA-Preservation SIG is trying to track down dates of publication for
> some of the game software listed.
Paul Dundas has many chunks of scans from DECUS stuff including some of the original paper documentation. I was very impressed when poking around his collection and found references to SCURT. It was like Homer finding the picture of himself as "Mr. Sparkle" on the Japanese detergent box :-)
All of the PDP-10 10-LIB and 20-LIB tapes are online at http://pdp-10.trailing-edge.com/, much of the low numbered stuff actually comes from PDP-6's. Electronic documentation is often there. In many cases you can trust the timestamp on the tape listings.
The PDP-11 SIG tapes are online at ftp://ftp.trailing-edge.com/pub/ , by the point something hit a SIG tape it usually has the documentation included as an electronic file.
Tim.
Needing space etc...
So the DEC 3000 with OpenBSD on it has to go.
It has a CDROM and DDS-tape unit with 3 or 4 'small' scsi drives in it.
Please contact off-list
If there are no takers I'll part it out and scrap what I don't need.
-Rik
O yes, it's located in the Netherlands near Groningen.
Found during cleanup, a RKV-11 controller.
It's a metal box, similar to a PDP-11/03.
It contains a 4 slot backplane and 4 cards.
One card has at the top 2 Berg connectors.
Box has no front.
Assumed to be working, as it was a shelf spare.
If interested, make an offer off list.
If only the cards and/or BP are wanted, I can disassemble the unit.
Regards,
Ed
--
Certified : VCP 3.x, SCSI 3.x SCSA S10, SCNA S10
Looking at their advertisement it seems that the alignment pack is 'price on
application' and a standard ('refurbished' whatever that means!) pack is an
astonishing $265!
On 17th December Chris Halarewich said:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> http://www.tamayatech.com/parts.php?g=RK05KAC
>
> there they have one for $265 also here they have a whole list here
>
> http://www.tamayatech.com/partsindex/dec_055.htm
>
Bob
I'm back to try this again. I need a boot tape for a HP 3000
Micro GX machine. Does anyone have a working machine
or a tape. I can use almost any media. I had 2 list members
say they would help but they seem to be too busy and its
been 6 months. I would really like to get this going.
Thanks, Jerry
g-wright at att.net
I tried this last week and can't believe no one out there
has any info on this ??? These where at one point some
what common with the Smalltalk folks.
So I will try again I believe there were 4404 4405 and 4406
models. mine is a 4404
Thanks, Jerry
I just heard about this an hour ago. The estate of John Musa (software
engineering old timer) is having a big auction TONIGHT (as in right
now). A friend is there, and he says that their are about 50 box lots
of interesting computer docs.
I suppose I will find out what happens.
Any reports from the field? Did any of us go?
--
Will
Anyone know good sources of information about the Micral V computer
(circa 1978) other than the manual on Bitsavers?
Google shows all kinds of information about the original Micral (1973)
but I can't find anything about this later model.
Maybe you could contact the guy who donated one to the hp museum and get it back. On wait, that's you. What happened there? (if I may ask)
http://www.hpmuseum.net/display_item.php?hw=909
Regards, Jim
Iomega ZIP 100 drives with power supply & Cable (2) $25 each
IOMEGA JAZ & ZIP Disks
One is new and rest have data on them.
Iomega 1GB JAZ disks in individual holders
formatted for IBM Compatibles (4)......$6 each
IOMEGA JAZ empty Holder...................$1
ZIP Disk plastic holder holds six disks.$2
Iomega ZIP 100 in plastic case (13)
formatted for IBM Compatibles...$5 each (3 for $12)
Iomega MAC ZIP 100 Tools disk (2).....$4 each
Iomega MAC ZIP 100 Disk (3)...........$3 each
Iomega ZIP MAC 100 in shrink wrap.....$4
3M XIMAT DC2120 Disk New - $5
Imation Super LS120 Disks (6) $4 each (3 for $10)
www.ehrich.com
my sale items on Amazon
<http://www.amazon.com/shops/geneehrich>http://www.amazon.com/shops/geneehrich
Does anyone from here have scans or originals of program documents
>from DECUS Catalogs for PDP software from the 60's and 70's? The
IGDA-Preservation SIG is trying to track down dates of publication for
some of the game software listed.
Thanks!
Marty
I have the following hard to find older items for sale.
half price for members of Classic Computers List
Iomega ZIP 100 drives with power supply & Cable (2) $25 each
IOMEGA JAZ & ZIP Disks
One is new and rest have data on them.
Iomega 1GB JAZ disks in individual holders
formatted for IBM Compatibles (4)......$6 each
IOMEGA JAZ empty Holder...................$1
ZIP Disk plastic holder holds six disks.$2
Iomega ZIP 100 in plastic case (13)
formatted for IBM Compatibles...$5 each (3 for $12)
Iomega MAC ZIP 100 Tools disk (2).....$4 each
Iomega MAC ZIP 100 Disk (3)...........$3 each
Iomega ZIP MAC 100 in shrink wrap.....$4
3M XIMAT DC2120 Disk New - $5
Imation Super LS120 Disks (6) $4 each (3 for $10)
From: Dave McGuire <mcguire at neurotica.com>
> This discussion about old LEDs makes me wonder...Is anyone aware
> of a mailing list for discussion of vintage electronic components?
Along the lines of vintage components, has anyone seen a change in the
value of vintage equipment when repairs are done with later date code parts?
I'm thinking about a friend of mine who had a Corvette where things like
the date code on the windshield glass made a difference in the value of
the vehicle.
I have a new bounty to post:
I'm looking for CAD Overlay 1.0 or CAD Overlay ESP, published by Image
Systems Technology in the 1988-89 timeframe.
I'll pay $100 for either version, but it must be original with manual.
Please contact me directly if you can help out.
Thanks!
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
(I seem to remember talking about this before, but I can't remember if it
was here or not. Sorry if this is a repeat)
It would be nice to find an ISA bus extender for a price that's close to
what the rest of my collection is worth. :-) I've done some googling and
such things exist. Something like this is what I'm after:
http://www.cyberresearch.net/store/computer-accessories-pc-peripherals/bus-…
...but the price is way out there. Does anyone know where I can get
something like this for a more reasonable price?
brian
Hi,
I'm in the market for a HP 82324A/B/C co-processor board, a customer of us
is using this for het 3D-measurement equipment.
His one burned out a few days ago, so he is searching for a working one.
If you have one and want to part from it, contact me off-list.
At hp-fix_at_xs4all_dot_nl
-Rik
Hi,
I'm in the market for a HP 82324A/B/C co-processor board, a customer of us
is using this for het 3D-measurement equipment.
His one burned out a few days ago, so he is searching for a working one.
If you have one and want to part from it, contact me off-list.
At hp-fix_at_xs4all_dot_nl
-Rik
From: Fred Cisin <cisin at xenosoft.com>
>
>> > Although the computer was originally a 286, it stopped working at
>> > some point. I was in graduate school at the time, and spent $900 to
>> > get all my data back and installed on a new 386 drive. So it is now a
>> > 386.
>
> Are 386 drives still available?
How many do you need/want, and what size :)?
My until-very-recently-working Amdek Color-I RGB Monitor (November 1983) has
given up the ghost. It was working perfectly the last time I powered it up, but
now it doesn't turn on. No noise, no hum, no glow, nothing, it's just silent,
as if it died in its sleep. (It's worth noting that it was left un-plugged
between the last time I used it and now, so I don't think it was a surge).
I'm embarrassed to admit this to the many old veterans on this list, but while
I have a good history of working with digital electronics, CRT repair is well
outside my scope of experience. Still, I'd really like to fix this guy and get
it working again, so I would greatly appreciate any newbie advice that anyone
has to offer before I open the monitor up and start poking around (ginerly, for
fear of dying). My first step was naturally to google 'Amdek +"Color-I"' and
'Amdek +"Color-I" +manual', which unfortnately hasn't been at all useful. No
service manuals to be found. Other pointers would be very welcome!
I know that poking around CRTs has given a lot of electronics hobbyists a good,
non-lethal education. I'm hoping to follow in those footsteps.
-Seth
Thanks for the warming tips Ethan. I've got a couple of MacIIvx boxes that
I "forgot" in my unheated workshop and the temperature dropped to -4 F a
couple of days ago. I was just going to light the wood stove that I have
there to warm them up but this looks like it will be too fast a temperature
rise as I can get from <-4 F to 80F in the space of about 4-5 hours. One
of the Macs has a flaky HDD that I've almost got backed up completely but I
don't want to take any chances with when I reboot. I figured that the
relative humidity of the air would be low enough with this big a
temperature rise from -4 F but will have to figure out how to warm the shop
more slowly (besides waiting for spring).
One nice way of looking at temperatures of stored computers is a small USB
temperature monitor that can sample temperatures from 1/sec to 1/hour and
stores 16537 readings. I got mine from wattsupwiththat.com and one of them
will be ideal for this as I think I'll try instead of the wood stove is
putting in a 1.5 Kw electric heater and leaving it on for a couple of days
which might work as the workshop is well insulated.
Anyone else have experience of "restoring" HDD's by freezing them? I've
used this technique before when I've got a HDD that won't spin up and I
toss it in my freezer for about an hour at -10 F and then connect the
power. I can't remember where I read this but I've successfully used it on
2 drives to get them to spin up long enough that I can copy their
contents. From what I've read on this thread it might have been a fluke
(we're talking about modern sealed drives here no more than 10 years old).
Boris Gimbarzevsky
>On 12/9/09, Zane H. Healy <healyzh at aracnet.com> wrote:
> > At 9:55 PM -0800 12/8/09, Chuck Guzis wrote:
> >>On 8 Dec 2009 at 21:19, Zane H. Healy wrote:
> >>
> >>> Okay, this is the first time I've ever had to worry about this. When
> >>> is it to cold to run a computer? It's 35F out in the garage, and it
> >>> is supposed to get a lot colder tonight. I just shut the dehumidifier
> >>> down (to cold to run it) and setup a heater near the computers (and
> >>> other stuff I don't want to freeze).
> >>
> >>It seems to me that Ethan would be the perfect one to answer this.
> >>35F is probably a heat wave at the South Pole.
> >
> > Except I don't think they run their computers outdoors! :-)
>
>But we do use outside air to cool them. It's free except for the
>power to push it around. (Oh... and +35F is never seen at the Pole -
>the record is +7.5F, and I've personally been around for +7.0F).
>
>As for the extreme case, we've had computers malfunction when outside
>access doors were left open and -80F air came in directly, bypassing
>the blowers and the louvers. On a day-to-day basis, the room with the
>14 racks that was AMANDA (it was shut down earlier this year after a
>10+ year run) shed about 35-40kW of heat with indirect access to
>outside air with some measure of automatic and manual thermal controls
>(covering up open cable panels and stuffing blankets in hatches in
>addition to thermostatic controls on air blowers). If we let the room
>get over about +55F, the high-voltage supplies for the photomultipler
>tubes would go into thermal shutdown (ultra-dry air at 650millibars
>doesn't have much heat capacity). OTOH, and more to the point, if we
>let the room get much colder than about +35F (say +25F or colder), a
>specific rack of digital hardware that was adjacent to the floor vents
>feeding cold air to the high voltage supplies would malfunction until
>the temp came up to the high thirties to low forties.
>
>In another location entirely, central Ohio, I used to rent the
>basement of my mother's typing and typesetting shop. The building was
>a late 19th C/early 20th C brick "shotgun" commercial space with a
>former storm-cellar-type access to the basement. As such, cold air
>poured from the modern back door, down the basement stairs, and into
>the space I ran PDP-8s, PDP-11s and a VAX-11/730. One of my jobs at
>the time was hacking PDP-11 assembler on an 11/23. The basement would
>routinely get to +40F, and sometimes colder if the wind was from the
>right direction (the water pipes had electric wraps). I couldn't
>personally stand to work in that environment without a heater pointed
>at me, but the computers ran fine. The lone device that had problems
>was an LA-180 printer I used for listings. It worked down to about
>+45F, but colder than that, I speculate that the rail lubricant got
>too viscous, because it would blow carriage motor fuses until it
>warmed up. I quickly learned not to print on cold nights.
>
>I'd say that if you keep things at or above freezing, you are probably
>perfectly fine. Magnetic media is a lot more sensitive than ICs in
>terms of cold soaking. One thing to watch for is to not power up
>cold-soaked electronics. The current inrush is likely to blow ICs
>(the internal bonded wires between the die and the frame, mostly).
>I've thawed machines that were left in unheated buildings over the
>winter at McMurdo - ordinary temps around -45F or so. Specifically in
>that case (ultra cold, powered off), there are known and published
>"max rates of rise" of temps to minimize the risk of permanent damage
>from thermal expansion. A good rule of thumb is about 2-3 degrees per
>hour. What I did with the cold-soaked computers was to throw them
>into a lab freezer at -40F for a few hours, then into a lab
>environmental chamber at -30F that I would tweak up about 5 degrees
>every couple of hours. When the chamber was up to about +20F, I threw
>the equipment in a lab refrigerator. The thaw process took two
>workdays, but 100% of what I treated that way survived (no hard disk -
>these were floppy-booting diskless PCs that ran from a Novell server).
>
>If it gets really cold (+0F, say), I'd bring the disks in the house
>and leave the CPUs powered off until the garage temps are back around
>+32F. ICs can be stored down to -40 typically, but not operated at
>those temps (and especially not put through a power-on cycle at those
>temps).
>
>So that's my experience and observations of cold and computers. Take
>away from it what you will.
>
>-ethan
Before I go out and try to buy or make some, does anyone here have any
spare DB25 filler panels?
--
David Griffith
dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu
A: Because it fouls the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?
> Since I lack a mouse for mine, can I put in a plea that whoever does
> adopt this system consider selling / trading me the mouse? 10 years ago
> IBM told me the 6150 mouse was no longer available, but there was a
> replacement, for which quoted me 150 pounds. They wouldn't tell me the
> part number of the replacement, but I am pretty sure it was just a
> Logitech PC mouse and an adaptor to plug it into the 6150. I tried
> making my own connector (from a Compaq laptop power supply connector,
> iirc), but had little success.
>
The IBM RT mouse I have (Part No. OOF2383) is definitly a protocol
mouse, as it has a HD63A01XOF processor for two encoders and two buttons
(http://electrickery.xs4all.nl/tmp/rt_mouse.JPG).
I can check out the wiring and protocol (if not propietary) later.
Sorry about that... I read "New York" and assumed New York, and
that's correct...
From: Edwina Williams <Wmsedw at aol.com>
Subject: Re: Old Computer to recycle
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:13:46 -0500
To: John Foust <jfoust at threedee.com>
X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.753.1)
X-AOL-IP: 162.84.208.173
X-Spam-Flag:NO
X-AOL-SENDER: Wmsedw at aol.com
X-Spam-Status: No, score=-2.6
X-Spam-Score: -25
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X-Spam-Flag: NO
Sorry, I should have included this information. I am in New York
City, in the Inwood neighborhood, which is near (north of) the George
Washington bridge in Manhattan. Because I am near the bridge, I am
also convenient to New Jersey.
Also, I have a car and sometimes go to the Kingston, New York area,
so I could take the computer there to meet up with someone.
Thank you,
Edwina
i suppose it had to happen sometime...
The cartride harddisk drive in my Lilith has died, it is unable to find tracks anymore.
Headmovement is of course controlled by the only ASIC, thus pure unobtainium, that is inside the machine.
So : anyone has a spare unit ?
( yes i know, winning the lottary is more likely)
Failing that i will be finally forced to write new microcode and kludge in an IDE disk....
Jos Dreesen
> William Blair wrote:
> >
> > Beautiful works of engineering art that look like
> they're new out of the box.
>
> Indeed, which is one reason it can be so difficult to see
> the stuff scrapped.
>
> Obviously, I can't claim any contribution to the beauty-of-the-
> engineering-art aspect for these items ... and I don't want to
> admit to how many OCD hours went into making them look
> new-out-of-the-box.
Great job on that front. Wouldn't HP like to have such gems to display, at least in a glass case in a lobby somewhere? If I had a museum (and it would definitely hold items like those), I'd take them in a heartbeat.
>
>
> My until-very-recently-working Amdek Color-I RGB Monitor (November 1983)
has
> given up the ghost. It was working perfectly the last time I powered it
up, but
> now it doesn't turn on.
><snip>
>
> I know that poking around CRTs has given a lot of electronics hobbyists a
good,
> non-lethal education. I'm hoping to follow in those footsteps.
>
> -Seth
>
Seth,
I have also had my share of the closer to lethal education as well :-)
Bill
That's "really rare", not "eBay rare". My employer was supposed
to get its funding last week and give me a huge cash bonus for
putting up with month-to-month "survival wages" for the past year,
but instead, they've hit a legal snag and now they can't make
payroll. I've gone from merrily making up shopping lists to abject
financial terror over the course of a day. With my emergency cash
buffer long since gone (see "survival wages" above), I am in serious
short-term trouble.
So it is with a heavy heart that I must consider parting with a
few things that are dear and precious to me. Two things in
particular are items that might bring in enough money to help my
immediate situation.
First, I have a set of original DEC OS/8 TU56 distribution tapes.
I emphasize, these are *original*, nearly pristine, DEC-labeled
distribution tapes. I've had these for nearly thirty years. 'Nuff
said.
Second, I have an Atomichron. Yes, a real one, a National Company
model NC-1001. One of the very few left in existence. If you don't
know what this is, you probably won't be interested, but in a
nutshell it's the first commercially-produced atomic resonance
frequency standard ("atomic clock"), built in 1956. As far as I've
found in my research there are three of these left of the
approximately fifty that were built between 1956 and 1960. I've
written a short research paper describing this instrument and its
history, including photos; I can provide copies of it upon request.
I'm open to negotiation on pricing, but neither will go cheaply.
If there's someone here who is interested in either of these fairly
rare items, please contact me ASAP. I'm planning to put one or both
of them on eBay within the next day or so.
-Dave
--
Dave McGuire
Port Charlotte, FL
On Tuesday December 15th, Rod Smallwood wrote:
4. I have already done it but I used a windows internet modem simulator.
I have loads of VAX's I wonder if it's possible to do Telnet in,
serial
RS232 with modem emulation (Assert DCD when connected) out on a VAX.
I had both the Lantronix and Xyplex terminal servers (mentioned
earlier) working as follows:
I linked them to the serial ports of a communication multiplexor on a
PDP-11.
When someone TELNET'ed in to the IP address of the terminal server,
they were automatically connected round-robin style to the next
available serial port.
This raised one of the signal lines high, which the operating system
detected,
and responded with the login prompt.
Likewise, when the user logged out, their TELNET session disconnected
automatically.
T
> Speaking of digital tube equipment, while I'm not ready to get rid of this
> stuff myself just yet, I'd like to ask whether others (the nearer the better)
> might have any interest in tube-based digital frequency counters and such;
> e.g:
> http://people.cs.ubc.ca/~hilpert/e/edte/HP521C/index.html
> http://people.cs.ubc.ca/~hilpert/e/edte/HP524B/index.html
> http://people.cs.ubc.ca/~hilpert/e/edte/HP524C/index.html
>
> No, they're not computers (unless one really wants to stretch the definition),
> they are boat anchors and of limited to no practical use, but they are
> manageable (barely) examples of vacuum-tube-based digital equipment.
Beautiful works of engineering art that look like they're new out of the box.
From: "Alexandre Souza - Listas" <pu1bzz.listas at gmail.com>
> Maybe if someone comes up with the protocol (or some reference for
> the original mouse, like...schematics :oD) I can help in doing
> something like a PS-2 converter :)
A rather neat trick I learned for (sometimes) finding schematics of such
stuff is to look at the FCC ID number on the mouse. With that, you can
do a lookup on one of the FCC databases, and you will find things like
manuals, schematics, drawings, etc.
A quick Google search (and a redirect) brought up the search engine:
http://www.fcc.gov/oet/ea/fccid/
The best program is .... Adobe Acrobat (real, full version Acrobat; not the
free "Acrobat Reader". Acrobat is an incredibly rich and powerful tool for
doing EVERYTHING related to PDF files. It's far more powerful than most
people have any idea. Unfortunately, it's expensive. But it can do what
you want, and more.
Scanning: Generally, scan at 300 dpi, in Grayscale (256 shades of
white-to-black). [Obviously, this is for monochrome documents]. There is
no reason to use 600 dpi unless the document is very unusual, it will only
make the file 4x larger and, in most cases, no better. JPEG is ok, but keep
the compression light. Your file size should be a few hundred thousand
bytes (up to approaching a megabyte) per page, although this depends on the
document. This works for both text only and documents with [black and
white] photos. [you MAY want to use 600 dpi on pages with halftone
(dithered dot) photos to get rid of moir?]. Do not use "black and white"
(e.g. 1 bit per pixel; every pixel either white or black) even for "black
and white" documents. Grayscale always produces a MUCH better result. I
know it's counter-intuitive when the document is just black text, but it's
true.
There are ways to get Acrobat cheaply. The best way is through educational
channels. Students at participating institutions can get current version
PROFESSIONAL editions ($449 list) [OUCH !!] for anywhere from $55 to $110.
Another approach is to buy an OLD, full version copy of Acrobat used on
E-Bay so that you qualify for the "upgrade" editions of the latest (or
later) versions ($99 to $199 instead of .... $449).
Speaking of educational discounts, Students can buy a copy of Windows 7
PROFESSIONAL for $30. I won't go into other student deals (I teach part
time at a local school), but the software deals available to students are so
good (Thousands and thousands of dollars worth of software (Microsoft,
Adobe, Corel, AutoCad, etc. available at like up to 90% off) that it can
easily pay to take one course just to become a "qualifying student" and be
able to buy this stuff.
Barry Watzman
Watzman at neo.rr.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 14:15:30 +0000
From: Philip Pemberton <classiccmp at philpem.me.uk>
Subject: Manual scanning: TIFF-to-PDF software with greyscale support?
Hi guys,
I'm after a program that can convert TIFF files into PDFs. I've seen
Eric Smith's "Tumble" app, which works great... but only for B&W TIFFs.
While I can use Imagemagick to convert the images to B&W, that defeats
the point: there are photos on the scanned pages, and I'd rather like to
keep them as photos, not black splodges.
Also, has anyone come up with a "best practice guide" for manual
scanning? At the moment I'm scanning like this:
B&W text only: 600dpi, black and white, threshold=50%.
Text + photos: 600dpi, greyscale, then despeckle and scale down to
300dpi.
Obviously if there are better ways (in terms of quality and/or speed)
I'd like to know before I scan a ton of testgear manuals...
Also, does anyone know of an app that can take the PDF file, OCR it and
then insert the text as a background layer while leaving the image
alone? I'm pretty sure Acrobat can do this, but like most Adobe
software, the price tag is somewhat... eye-watering. "If you have to ask
how much it costs, you can't afford it."
Thanks,
--
Phil.
classiccmp at philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk
As mentioned earlier, the DECServer 200/MC won't work for your
application,
as it only speaks LAT. Additionally, it needs to boot from a host
every time it starts.
I've experimented with a few different terminal servers,
and there are several out there that should be adequate to the task.
The Lantronix ETS series is very compact, and easy to set up.
It speaks LAT as well as TCP/IP.
The drawback is that when you telnet IN to the Lantronix, it displays
a rather annoying welcome message that I don't believe you can disable.
(At least that was my experience.)
The Xyplex 1600 series of terminal servers seemed to work the best,
but configuration can be a PITA, if you're not used to them.
I would recommend the 1620 with flash card, and 4MB of RAM, if you go
that route.
T
I'm just considering divesting myself of a Ferguson Big Board system that I've
never played with.
Looking it over and reading about the FBB .. just out of curiousity, does
anyone know offhand whether the on-board video display relied on the system Z80
CPU (such as in the Apple II or sinclair ZX80), or was it a 'pure peripheral'
to the CPU?
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 15:57:04 -0300
From: "Alexandre Souza - Listas" <pu1bzz.listas at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: tube digital interest / was Re: Running Computers Cold
>>If I might be permitted one small cavil... the possessive "its" takes
>>no apostrophe, any more than its close kin-words "his", "hers", "ours"
>>or "theirs". Every one makes some of us flinch in discomfort. It's the
>>only thing wrong with an otherwise-immaculate display, and as such, I
>>thought I'd draw it to your attention...
-------------
>This is something that would be waaaaayyyy more apropriate in private...
>;o)
-------------
I respectfully disagree.
I think the above suggestion applies pretty widely these days; not only does
it's instead of its make some of us flinch, but it can be distracting and make
the relevant text seem to be less professional.
m
***********************************************************************************
> Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 14:15:30 +0000
> From: Philip Pemberton <classiccmp at philpem.me.uk>
> Subject: Manual scanning: TIFF-to-PDF software with greyscale support?
> To: cctalk <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
> Message-ID: <4B264882.4010901 at philpem.me.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Hi guys,
> I'm after a program that can convert TIFF files into PDFs. I've seen
> Eric Smith's "Tumble" app, which works great... but only for B&W TIFFs.
> While I can use Imagemagick to convert the images to B&W, that defeats
> the point: there are photos on the scanned pages, and I'd rather like to
> keep them as photos, not black splodges.
>
> Also, has anyone come up with a "best practice guide" for manual
> scanning? At the moment I'm scanning like this:
>
> B&W text only: 600dpi, black and white, threshold=50%.
> Text + photos: 600dpi, greyscale, then despeckle and scale down to
> 300dpi.
>
> Obviously if there are better ways (in terms of quality and/or speed)
> I'd like to know before I scan a ton of testgear manuals...
>
> Also, does anyone know of an app that can take the PDF file, OCR it and
> then insert the text as a background layer while leaving the image
> alone? I'm pretty sure Acrobat can do this, but like most Adobe
> software, the price tag is somewhat... eye-watering. "If you have to ask
> how much it costs, you can't afford it."
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Phil.
> classiccmp at philpem.me.uk
> http://www.philpem.me.uk/
Try ABBYY FineReader, http://finereader.abbyy.com/ or
http://www.abbyyusa.com/adx/aspx/adxGetMedia.aspx?DocID=2314
I expect the US$50 Express version will do what u want, I have been a very
happy user of the PRO version for many years.
Tom