On Dec 23, 17:27, Tony Duell wrote:
> I had to do almost the reverse -- my PDP8/e is a desktop system (I don't
> have a spare rack for it at the moment), and the RX01 drive is in the
> tabletop case. I had to make up the cable to link the DB25 on the back
> of that to the RX8e card in the PDP8.
The pins used in the DB25 (and the 37-way) are arranged at one end of the
connector, in such a way that I am wondering if they're arranged to be easy
to crimp a matching connector onto a ribbon cable. And I seem to remember
that only the alternate pairs of pins are used on the RX02's 40-way Berg.
Hmm, looking at the M7744 there seem to be 11 signal lines, so that idea's
not quite right. Time to dig out the print set, I think.
> AFAIK, you can set the DIP switches in an RX02 so that it behaves
> identically to the RX01. This shouldn't give any problems.
Yes, I've found the User Manual now, and it gives the DIP switch settings
for use with RXV21/RX211, RXV11/RX11/RX8E, and RX28.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
Dept. of Computer Science
University of York
Hi
I accumulted about 30+ compact macs in the recent months (128ks,512ks etc...).
I am in the process of restoring/fixing the most interesting ones...and keeping just maybe one of each model for my collection...
Really hate to throw this SE30 board in the garbage...
Just get a bunch of horizontal stripes.
Replaced all surface mount caps. Some had obviously leaked.
All ram good. Simm Rom good.
Putting board in other functionnal Se30 case still gives me horizontal stripes.
Next step is getting scope in there but I have no schematics.
Perhaps someone who has fixed a lot of these boards can point me to where most problems were.
Thanks for reading
Claude
Fellow compu-folks,
While I appreciate the advice given so far, NONE of it has addressed my
original question. Let me clarify a couple of things.
1). I already have a perfectly good hardware firewall/router in the form
of a Zyxel Prestige 312. I do NOT need to dedicate any other system to this
task.
2). My ORIGINAL question: Given the list of machines I posted earlier,
which system would be best suited to which function?
Here are my current thoughts on this.
Mail servers: Both SPARCClassics or a Classic and that accelerated IPX I
have.
(Future) Web server: The NEC RISCStation 2200. Plenty of headroom to grow
there.
The FTP/News box: One of the MicroVAX 3's. Lots of space up front for
large-capacity hard drives.
The maintenance node: That Motorola MVME147 tower.
Ok? Any counterpoints? Thanks much.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Bruce Lane, Owner and head honcho, Blue Feather Technologies
http://www.bluefeathertech.com // E-mail: kyrrin(a)bluefeathertech.com
Amateur Radio: WD6EOS since Dec. '77 (Extra class as of June-2K)
"I'll get a life when someone demonstrates to me that it would be
superior to what I have now..." (Gym Z. Quirk, aka Taki Kogoma).
Fellow CLASSICCMP'ers and NetBSD Port-VAX'ers,
I've reached the point where I need to make some decisions, and I would
appreciate some insights from those who have obviously been computing since
before I figured out how to pull apart my first alarm clock. ;-)
I'm getting ready to create my own 'server farm' to place the
bluefeathertech.com domain on. My ultimate goal is to be dependent on Qwest
(or whoever my ISP ends up being in the long run) only for:
--The DSL line
--DNS support
--Usenet (and maybe not even that if I choose to set up a caching news
server locally).
I want to take responsibility for everything else, including:
--Two mail servers (primary and backup)
--A web server (already up and running since last summer)
--An FTP system that can do double-duty as a local caching Usenet server
with a LIMITED (less than 50) newsgroups (I don't have a terabyte storage
array). ;-)
--A "maintenance" server that can be dedicated to netbooting other
systems, if need be, and that will also serve as a central recording point
for logging from the other machines.
Everything will run a version of NetBSD as its OS. This is not negotiable.
With all this in mind, and considering I have numerous retired systems
available, I'm looking for suggestions on which platform to use for which
purpose. Here is what I have active now:
SPARC IPC (Local DNS, intranet only).
SPARCClassic, 32MB RAM, 1 gig disk -- Web server.
Here are the machines I have available that have yet to be put to use.
--SPARC IPX with the Weitek PowerSPARC upgrade CPU, 32MB RAM.
--At least one, possibly two more SPARCClassics, 32MB RAM each (both under
consideration for mail servers).
--NEC RISCServer 2200, dual CPUs, 64MB RAM (Under consideration for taking
over as web server at a future point).
--Two MicroVAX 3's, 32MB RAM each.
--DEC 3000/600 Alpha system, 128MB RAM (under consideration as a future
workstation).
--VAXServer 3100, 16MB RAM (can possibly go to 24).
--VAXStation 3100/M38, 16MB RAM (can possibly go to 24).
--ApplicationDEC dual-CPU 486 system, 16MB RAM.
--DEC 5000/200 MIPS box, RAM unknown.
--Motorola MVME147 tower system, RAM unknown (at least 8, possibly 16MB),
under consideration for the "maintenance" node mentioned earlier.
So..... which machine gets to do what? Any thoughts? I have enough SCSI
disks to give all the machines a minimum storage space of between 520MB-1
gig. I do have one 9-gig Seagate that I'm reserving for the FTP/Usenet box.
Thanks in advance.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Bruce Lane, Owner and head honcho, Blue Feather Technologies
http://www.bluefeathertech.com // E-mail: kyrrin(a)bluefeathertech.com
Amateur Radio: WD6EOS since Dec. '77 (Extra class as of June-2K)
"I'll get a life when someone demonstrates to me that it would be
superior to what I have now..." (Gym Z. Quirk, aka Taki Kogoma).
I've just got all my collection back out of storage and I'm hoping to get
my VT78 up and running after Christmas. It's not been used in about 10
years (before I got it), so obviously some care and testing is going to be
required first. And of course I have a "few" questions...
Is there anything in particular I should watch out for when I power it up?
I don't have the RX01 drives that originally came with it, but I do have
the connecting cable with a D-37 connector at the VT78 end and a DB-25 at
the other end (only 18 pins fitted). I also have a set of RX02s in the
adjacent rack, and I have the RX02 printset and manuals somewhere. I
assume I can set the RX02 (M7044) switches appropriately, and use that with
an appropriate adapter cable? Anyone know the relevant VT78 pinout?
Documentation: all I can find that's even vaguely relevant is the DECscope
User's manual, RX8/RX11 Floppy Disk System User's Manual, RX8/RX11 Floppy
Disk System Maintenance Manual, the OS/8 Software Support Manual, and a
FOCAL-GT/RT User's Manual. I have borrowed copies of the Small Computer
Handbook (that's the one for 8/e, 8/f and 8/m) and the PDP8/a Minicomputer
Handbook. I should have the RX02 User Manual somewhere too. What else am
I going to need, that's downloadable from the net?
I should have some 8" floppies, though I'm not sure what's on them becasuse
I've not actually found them yet :-) Is there anything I should try
downloading from the net?
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
Dept. of Computer Science
University of York
If you live in Austin several computers, printers, and monitors
are available for free. The location is just north of the intersection
of Burnet and Metric on Burnet. The stuff is located by the dumpster
behind the Compass Bank building. The computers are 386 and 486 and
were working when taken off line. The Monitors are VGA some are dim.
Most of the printers are in the dumpster. A few SCSI drives and cables
are also stacked by the dumpster. All are free if any thing is left
it will be trashed Sat afternoon. What you dont want can be taken to
Computer GoodWill on 183 or to "Computers-4Kids Thrift Store" on 2928
Manor Rd. in east Austin. The "Computers-4Kids" is also a good place
to pick up old computers.
Reuben
On Dec 22, 23:35, Zane H. Healy wrote:
> On Dec 22, 22:12, Chuck McManis wrote:
> >Personally if I were you I'd do my own DNS as well, especially if you're
> >going to be connected 24 x 7. So what you're doing is creating your own
> >"POP" (Point of Presence)
>
> I've got to agree here, while it's unlikely your ISP's DNS will fail,
> having your own should allow for faster access I would think.
I'm sure it will. If you don't want to run your own primary/secondary
yourself, at least run one on the mail server(s); it will make quite a
difference if you handle any volume of mail. That's why we run four:
primary, secondary, and one on each of staff and student mail servers.
> I see you've not mentioned a firewall, are you going to have all this
> sitting naked on the internet? I *STRONGLY* recommend a Firewall running
> OpenBSD!!!!!!!!!! Look at it this way, I'm a VMS type, not a BSD type,
and
> my firewall runs OpenBSD.
Definitely!
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
Dept. of Computer Science
University of York
Joe <rigdonj(a)intellistar.net> said:
>"Nintendo floppy systems"
> A floppy system on a Nintendo? I've never heard of one. What were they
>used for? The only Nintendo devices that I've seen are the game machines
>and they use plug-in ROM cartridges.
In case this is not answered by the time I get the digest:
Before the NES, Nintendo developed a personal computer that (I believe)
only sold in Japan called the "FamiCom" or Family Computer.
It had a floppy disk system available for it. The drive was powered by
batteries and used a 3" yellow floppy that had the word NINTENDO embossed
on it. http://www.atarihq.com/tsr/fds/fds.html
Then the disk system was combined with the FamiCom to create the "Twin
FamiCom". http://www.atarihq.com/tsr/odd/scans/twinfamicom.html
I still have a couple FamiComs, a Twin FamiCom and a couple of the the
disk systems.
--Doug
===================================================
Doug Coward dcoward(a)pressstart.com (work)
Sr Software Engineer mranalog(a)home.com (home)
Press Start Inc. http://www.pressstart.com
Sunnyvale,CA
Visit the new Analog Computer Museum and History Center
at http://www.best.com/~dcoward/analog
===================================================
If anyone in the Minnetonka, Minnesota area is interested in the
possibility of an IBM Series/1 mainframe, please contact me privately. I
have a lead for you.
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
>On Fri, 22 Dec 2000, Joe wrote:
> Some even reversed the +5 and +12vdc pin locations
>in the power connector. (Talk about a dirty trick!)
I did`nt check the pin location on a amstrad 3" externa
drive as I tried to install a 3.5" floppy drive in it.
Puff, the 3.5 floppy drive went up in smoke.
Jacob Dahl Pind
Public Pgp key available on request
--------------------------------------------------
= IF this computer is with us now... =
=...It must have been meant to come live with us.=
= (Belldandy - Goddess First class) =
--------------------------------------------------
Is anyone familar with the 3" floppy drives? Is that what these
"http://www.intellistar.net/~rigdonj/misc/3-inch.jpg" are? I pulled them
out of a Loral 1553 bus analyzer. As you can see from the photo, a standard
3.5" floppy disk is too large for them. Do these use the same interface as
the 3.5" drives? How many tracks do these support? Does anyone have a
couple of 3" disks that they're willing to part with?
Joe
On December 21, Aaron Nabil wrote:
> If I can offer advise, use the proxy system. Enter the amount maximum
> amount you are willing to pay. You have absolutely, irrevocably defused
> ANY danger of sniping.
If the item is commonly available through other sources, sure, I
agree. But lots of stuff on eBay isn't. Rare is the "one of a kind"
item, but if I see something that I've been looking for for years on
eBay, my definition of "maximum" is a very subjective thing...and may
have nothing to do with the "street value" of the item...it has more
to do with how badly I want it, and how much trouble I'd have to go
through to get it elsewhere.
A good example of this is classic computers. Despite living in an
area where there's either a three-letter agency or a DRMO warehouse on
every street corner, PDP stuff (for example) is VERY difficult to find
where I live. I'd pay several hundred bucks for a pdp11/34a in a
heartbeat on eBay. Why? Because I've been looking for one for a LONG
time and only recently got one locally by pure luck and the sharp eye
of a good friend. You guys who are swimming in them may think I'm
nuts...but you HAVE them. Get it?
In other words, two points...One, sniping is an essential technique for
non-mainstream items (in any category) on eBay, if your goal is to get
the item. Two, the definition of "non-mainstream" frequently differs
>from person to person.
-Dave McGuire
Hello all!
I'm a proud owner of two 102's and I just found a VT-100 (sans keyboard) and
all of them have the same cosmetic problem ie. they're yellow. Different
shades of yellow, one is mildly yellow, one is dark yellow etc.
So, can anyone tell what was the original color (of the case, in case you
didn't figure that out from my pretty poor English) in either approximated
terms ("eye blinding white") or in something like Pantone:)
I'd like to paint one of those VT's to get it as close as possible to the
original color (I know you were thinking about flames and stuff when you saw
the subject line. I did) I just don't know the correct shade.
Re: computers and movies
I think that Terminator II had a big bunch of HP 7925's blown up, they
were those dishwasher sized disk drives. And WarGames had a couple
of Televideo 950's (VT-100 like case but narrower). Does anyone know
anything about the vector graphics used for big screens in the war room ?
--
jht
I have at least 50 pounds of 486/ISA stuff, including a DX4/120, an
AMD 586/133, four motherboards, a chassis, about 20 1M memory modules,
sound cards, network cards, 4 VLB video cards (#9, C&T, Trident, etc,
several 2 meg), as well as some tape drives and a CD or two available to
whoever wants to pick them up in Santa Monica. You must take the whole
lot. No, not all of it is 10 years old. I'm just cleaning out the
closet, and my hands are just too scarred from dealing with VLB
insertion/extraction.
I know this is off-topic due to lack of age, but maybe since the
company no longer exists (<sigh>), maybe it can be sortof ontopic
Does anyone happen to know how compatible parts are between the
Digital Hinote VP (TS31D) and another Digital Hinote VP(-535, TS30G)?
I need to replace the battery, disk, cdrom and floppy for a TS30G
and I have the opportunity to buy a TS31D...
Thanks in advance...
Megan Gentry
Former RT-11 Developer
+--------------------------------+-------------------------------------+
| Megan Gentry, EMT/B, PP-ASEL | Internet (work): gentry!zk3.dec.com |
| Unix Support Engineering Group | (home): mbg!world.std.com |
| Compaq Computer Corporation | addresses need '@' in place of '!' |
| 110 Spitbrook Rd. ZK03-2/T43 | URL: http://world.std.com/~mbg/ |
| Nashua, NH 03062 | "pdp-11 programmer - some assembler |
| (603) 884 1055 | required." - mbg KB1FCA |
+--------------------------------+-------------------------------------+
On December 22, Aaron Nabil wrote:
> I'm not sure I understand how your "very subjective maximum" at all alters
> my assertion that using the proxy system entirely sidesteps the problem
> of snipers. I think it is safe to say that the "maximum you are willing
> to pay" is ALWAYS very subjective.
>
> How does bidding your maximum via the proxy system fail to defuse
> snipers just becuase the item is rare?
Because bidding via the proxy system means bidding your maximum ONCE.
Over the course of several days during an auction, due to new
information, new finds, other competing auctions etc etc, my "maximum"
may change from moment to moment.
Think of it as a cop-out...it's sometimes REALLY difficult to come
up with a good "maximum value" and stick to it. If I want something
badly enough, who knows!
-Dave McGuire
Fedron is great. I have been using it for years. You can find it at a copier
repair place. It works wonders with feed rollers but will dissolve some
plastics so you want to be careful.
Copier places buy it by the gallon. I just take a small bottle to them and
buy like 1/2 a pint. You want a glass bottle with a good seal, it is highly
volatile.
A little goes a long way. I use a cotton cloth, dip a corner in the bottle
and apply sparingly. Rotate the roller against the cloth. It works on inkjet
feed rollers along with laser printer feed rollers. It has been a long time
but I think I even used it on typewriter platen rollers, first cleaning them
with alcohol to strip the ink. I usually do it outside, I don't like solvents
in the house.
Fedron works very well. I have no idea who makes it.
Paxton
Portland, OR
On Dec 22, 0:03, Neil Cherry wrote:
> Mike Ford wrote:
> >
> > Any opinions on "rubber rejuvinent"? I want to give all my printers a
once
> > over during the holidays, and I've heard this stuff is just the ticket
for
> > lazy pickup rollers etc. Web searchs have shown a couple different
aerosol
> > products, but I think it also comes in bottles. Tomorrow I do some
local
> > hunting at a couple big electronics parts stores. Anybody have
experience,
> > or preferences?
>
> If you find something that works let me know my 550C has the same
problem.
In the printing industry, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) is used to deep-clean
ink rollers and "blankets" on offset litho machines. It's a powerful ink
solvent, and also causes rubber to swell very slightly, so it removes the
glaze you sometimes get, and lifts the dents you get in the blanket as a
result of a paper smash[1]. MEK works well on pickup rollers, and it
doesn't harm the ozone layer. However, like many solvents, it does
dissolve some common plastics (polystyrene, ABS, PVC, etc) and paint; it
also leaches the oils and fats from your skin, so don't wash in it :-) Not
for too long, anyway. It's also flammable. However, it's much safer than
benzene, xylol, etc. It's a relative of acetone (nail varnish remover) and
you can get it from print suppliers (they may call it something like
blanket rejuvenator, and charge extra), lab suppliers, etc. Put some on a
cloth and wipe the roller with it. I've used it on lots of printer
rollers, and the carriages of daisywheel and dotmatrix printers.
You don't really want to use anything that is a good solvent for rubber or
rubber cement as that will end up distorting the roller or making it gummy
and ultimately leave you worse off.
[1] In an offset litho press, the image is transferred from an image
"plate" -- a very thin sheet of metal or plastic wrapped round a large drum
-- to a rubber "blanket", also wrapped round a large drum. From there, the
image is transferred to the paper. If a sheet of paper gets crumpled in
the press, it makes dents in the blanket, which then fails to pick up ink
>from the plate in the low spots. This is called a "paper smash" or a
"blanket smash".
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
Dept. of Computer Science
University of York
In a message dated 12/21/2000 6:54:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rigdonj(a)intellistar.net writes:
> I have to take a look at the CPU on this one but I'm pretty sure that
> these don't use the DEC CPU. The model that uses the DEC CPU is a Tek 8560
> or somrthing like that. I have one of them too but It's not here so I can't
> check the model number.
>
Joe is right. It is the 85XXs that used the DEC cards. I have had several of
both. The 8540, 8550 & 8560 were Tektronix Microcomputer Development Labs.
The 8540 hosted emulator/debugers and interfaced to VAX 780s. The 8560s were
more stand alone and had an 11/23 processor. The 8561 was the Software
Developing Unit and worked in combination with the integration emulator 85XX
unit and a logic analyzer.
To quote the 1984 Tek catalog, the 8561 had an 11/23 processor, 256K of Ram,
13.5 MB of HD, 1 Meg floppy (8"), 2 user ports and 2 printer ports. It could
be upgraded to 8 users, 35.6 Meg of HD and 1 Meg of ram. It ran TNIX.
The 8002 that Joe has is earlier and had been discontinued by '84.
When Tek had their big Ross Dove auction here I got a truckload of this
stuff. Includes were several 8002s and their associated Dual 8" floppy disk
drive units, 8003s? The cards in these reminded me of overgrown S100 cards
but they were tek's own. Stupidly I let my partner scrap them, not realizing
it is the first units that are the ones to save. These date to the late
1970s. It reminded me of a 12 slot? S100 buss machine. The cards were about
the same width but taller than S100 cards. I think the architecture was
different but I never investigated.
I am sorry, Joe, but I don't think I have anything left of that vintage, but
I sure remember them.
Paxton
Portland, OR
Mike Ford <mikeford(a)socal.rr.com> wrote:
> Any opinions on "rubber rejuvinent"? I want to give all my printers a once
> over during the holidays, and I've heard this stuff is just the ticket for
> lazy pickup rollers etc. Web searchs have shown a couple different aerosol
> products, but I think it also comes in bottles. Tomorrow I do some local
> hunting at a couple big electronics parts stores. Anybody have experience,
> or preferences?
Back in the 1980s the HP CEs used to carry a bottle of something
called Fedron that was very aromatic and good at making rubber
printer rollers just grabby enough to pull paper through.
It was so good I figure it caused the hole in the ozone layer
and that's why you can't find it any more.
Lately I've turned up (at Fry's, surprisingly enough) a 100ml bottle
of something differently aromatic called Rubber Renue. It's from
M. G. Chemicals <URL:http://www.mgchemicals.com> and is their catalog
number 408A-100ml. It seems to have made the rubber pads on the
supply reel fingers in one of my HP 88780 drives a bit more grabby
than they were, which was desired. I haven't tried it on printers
yet.
Fair warning, wherever you use this stuff will be pungent for a couple
of days if the ventilation isn't good. It doesn't smell bad to me but
your tastes may differ, and it's an eye/skin/lung irritant as well as
flammable. Chemical contents are claimed to be dimethylbenzene
(CAS#1330-20-7) and methyl salicylate (CAS#119-36-8).
-Frank McConnell
On December 21, healyzh(a)aracnet.com wrote:
> I believe there is a brand called something like "Rubber Renews It", our ex
> printer/plotter guy absolutly swore by the stuff. Unfortunatly he retired
> last week after about 21 years of doing the job, it was *scarry* how much he
> knew about printers!
I think it's "Rubber ReNu"...I saw that stuff work once, years
ago...it was amazing. Haven't been able to find it, though.
If anyone comes across a supplier, please let me know...I'd love to
add a bottle of that stuff to my bag of tricks.
-Dave McGuire
Sorry for the spam... I'm setting up a new firewall, and I'm having
trouble convincing sendmail.cf to do what I want.... Cross your
fingers...
clint
PS You'll only see this if it works, not the many trys that didn't
work :)
On December 19, Ernest wrote:
> I have a very low opinion of bid snipers. They're like the proverbial "bad
> apples" that spoil it for everyone. I believe that most new bidders on ebay
> go into it with honest intentions but they (like me) learn quickly that a
> last second bid sniper will likely ruin the joy for them. Bid sniping is a
...
I think you're missing the point...the notion of "it's not whether
you win or lose, it's how you play the game" is something that parents
say to their children to stop them from crying when they lose. It has
nothing to do with eBay.
For buyers, eBay is a venue for getting things that they want. For
sellers, it's a venue for getting rid of things they don't want. It's
not there for "enjoyment" or "fun" or anything of the sort. If
there's something on eBay that you want, the effort (and money) that
you expend to get it is determined by how badly you want the item.
It's really as simple as that.
Ernest, as a frequent sniper, I sincerely apologize to you on behalf
of other snipers for ruining your experiences. But please try to see
it from the other side...it's a means to an end, it's nothing
personal.
-Dave McGuire
On December 21, Tony Duell wrote:
> > Does anyone have one of these or is anyone familar with them? I just
>
> I have something similar.
>
> The box with the floppy drive(s) (or maybe a Micropolis 1200 hard disk in
> place of one of the floppies) is essentially a PDP11. There's a real DEC
> CPU card (normally an PDP11/03, sometimes an 11/23) CPU card in there,
> along with special Tektronix cards containing RAM, boot ROMs, disk
> controller, serial ports, etc. The backplane has one normal DEC Q-bus
> slot for the CPU and some Tektronix slots for the other cards.
What?? REALLY? Damn, I passed up one at a hamfest this past
summer. I really regret it now. That sounds like a really neat
system. I had no idea Tek embedded DEC processors in their
development systems.
-Dave McGuire
I'm trying to put together some pages on the VAX and have put them up under
my computers section
<http://www.mcmanis.com/chuck/computers>. One of the pages is a pricing
guide for VAXen :-) Now that should start an interesting discussion :-)
--Chuck
Does anyone have one of these or is anyone familar with them? I just
picked one up last week. I dug through my odds and ends and found a couple
of manuals for it and several boxs of TekDOS operating system disks with
the Z-80 assembler and software. I scanned a picture of the system from
one of the manuals at
"http://www.intellistar.net/~rigdonj/tek/tek8002.jpg". The two pieces that
I have are shown at the top right.
Joe
Hi
I posted free/trade DEC stuff not too long ago. I had a taker for a DEC
cdrom now I have a LA100 mainboard that will go in garbage soon if I get
no replies. No idea if it works. Complete and looks ok. I have no idea
if it's worth anything...not familiar with DEC stuff...
Free for shipping cost from Montreal, Canada. Expect $3-5US approx.
Claude
An unsolicited e-mail I received today:
>From: "evan stickney" <estickney(a)hotmail.com>
>To: jfoust(a)threedee.com
>Subject: vax
>Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 09:18:57 -0500
>
>Some DEC stuff I have for sale.
Dear Sirs;
We have the following items for sale in Central Ohio:
Digital LP26 printer
DEC writer
VAX 11/750
TU80 tape drive
RA60 disk unit/ RA 61 module
DF03 modem
VT125 terminal
(5) RA 60 disk media
23 DEC tape II cartridges
64 tape cartridges with DEC software titles
4 Hammermill Paper boxes of documentation
(27) B-300-600 ribbons
I realize some of these items are bulky or in excess of 300 lbs.
I will consider parting out larger units since many people just
need pieces to keep theirs running. Software/documentation
titles on request. I think that the tapes are good but have
no way of checking.
On Dec 21, 17:00, Sean Caron wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <LFessen106(a)aol.com>
> To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 4:09 PM
> Subject: Re: Old SGI's?!
>
>
> > << Hmm, I dunno about reputable, I called them to try and sell them
this
> > stupid
> > origin 200 I have an the guy was a total ass.. he asked me if the
stupid
> > thing was stolen.. what a moron
> > >>
> >
> > I looked at their "reasonable" prices.. *Not*.
> I guess it's all relative. Granted, SGI systems are workstations, and if
> you're
> looking to purchase stuff from a reseller, it's going to be rather
expensive
> any way you go, because they're generally geared to the sort of clientele
> that will purchase and pay larger amounts of money for workstations and
> workstation parts. It's hard to keep this in mind sometimes when we are
> so used to getting equipment for free or extremely cheaply, but sometimes
> there's that part that we just really don't have much choice for.
>
> I didn't mean to point anyone in the "wrong" direction. I was just
> suggesting
> them as they certainly have the parts, and I personally have had nothing
but
> positive experiences with them in the past.
I second Sean's point of view. I've dealt with Reputable, as have a few of
my friends, and we've always found them helpful. The prices are
reasonable, especially compared to others (including private sellers) in
the workstation market. If you don't like them, you could try negotiating.
Will, any reasonable reseller will check the provenance of something like
an O200 -- not the sort of thing you usually find privately owned.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
Dept. of Computer Science
University of York
I just would like to say that I'm not saying that Reputable is necessarily a
bad place, only that my experience with them did not exactly make me happy.
I just don't appreciate people implying that I might have stolen a computer,
that's all...
Will J
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On December 21, Sean Caron wrote:
> > I looked at their "reasonable" prices.. *Not*.
>
> I guess it's all relative. Granted, SGI systems are workstations, and if
> you're
> looking to purchase stuff from a reseller, it's going to be rather expensive
> any way you go, because they're generally geared to the sort of clientele
> that will purchase and pay larger amounts of money for workstations and
> workstation parts. It's hard to keep this in mind sometimes when we are
> so used to getting equipment for free or extremely cheaply, but sometimes
> there's that part that we just really don't have much choice for.
>
> I didn't mean to point anyone in the "wrong" direction. I was just
> suggesting
> them as they certainly have the parts, and I personally have had nothing but
> positive experiences with them in the past.
I second this voice of support for Greg at reputable.com. I've had
nothing but positive experiences with him as well, and his prices
*are* reasonable...if you keep in mind the fact that he is a RESELLER,
not a surplus organization or a college equipment dump, and he deals
with lots of large corporations.
It's like dealing with Black Box. You'll never get the best price
>from them...but when you're in a pinch, what you need will always be
on your doorstep before you wake up the next morning.
-Dave McGuire
Today I picked up a HP 3000 980/100 at auction for $45. Still have not
unloaded it yet need a way to get it off the van, they loaded it with a
forklift. I just have the cpu no monitor or keyboard. Anyone have
spec's on this unit.
John Keys
Perhaps a quickie for the classic 'calc types amongst us:
Just acquired a Frieden 132 Electronic Calculator, and while it appears to
function, the screen display is somewhat distorted. It appears to be
overscanning and a bit to the dim side.
So, any common POF on this one?
-jim
---
jimw(a)agora.rdrop.com
The Computer Garage - http://www.rdrop.com/~jimw
Computer Garage Fax - (503) 646-0174
Note: the 'computergarage.org' domain is currently offline. The original
'Garage' site (URL above) is still out there and is currently being updated.
On Dec 21, 10:57, Mark Green wrote:
> On Dec 21, 12:27, LFessen106(a)aol.com wrote:
> > Neither one has a KB, Mouse or Monitor, and although a decent SVGA
works
> > fine, I can't for the life of me find the KB/Mouse for these anywhere
(they
> > have the ps2 style connector, but are *not* ps2 compatable).
Mark has answered that. All I will add is that (apart from the PS/2
keytboards and mice used on Indigo^2, Indy, O2, and later) keyboards for
different 4D machines and original Indigos differ only in the plug fitted.
You could try Greg Douglas at www.reputable.com or Doug Mashek (look in the
comp.sys.sgi.* newsgroups; you'll find them).
> > from one to the other? I read somewhere there was a prom command to
> > duplicate hard drives???
Not exactly. If the drives have *exactly the same* geometry (you can check
this by using the standalone fx command that may be included in partition
8) then you can use cp from the prom to copy the entire disk. Otherwise,
format (only if necessary!), label, and partition the drive (using fx,
either from the prom or IRIX) then do a mkfs on it, and finally you can use
tar to copy one filesystem to another. IRIX tar -- at least in 5.3 and
possibly in 4.0.x -- is smart enough to "do the right thing" for entries in
/dev.
> > Is there someone on the list willing to part with an old copy of Irix?
These
> > machines will only run up to 5.0.3 I think.
Up to 5.3; I don't think there is a 5.0.3. 5.3 came on CDs, so start
looking for a SCSI CD-ROM that can be fixed in hardware to do 512-byte
blocks. Older Toshibas are excellent for this. Some Apple, Sun and DEC
CD-ROM drives may work too -- there's a document at
ftp://viz.tamu.edu/pub/sgi about this (and lots more).
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
Dept. of Computer Science
University of York
<< Hmm, I dunno about reputable, I called them to try and sell them this
stupid
origin 200 I have an the guy was a total ass.. he asked me if the stupid
thing was stolen.. what a moron
>>
I looked at their "reasonable" prices.. *Not*.
On December 21, Eric J. Korpela wrote:
> > . I'd pay several hundred bucks for a pdp11/34a in a
> > heartbeat on eBay. Why? Because I've been looking for one for a LONG
> > time [...]
>
> I don't think this invalidates the point Aaron made. In fact it validates
> it. Enter several hundred bucks for your maximum and you won't have to
> snipe. If it goes above that, well, it was more than you were willing to
> pay. What's the problem? If you are disappointed you didn't get it, then
> you apparently didn't have your maximum set high enough.
You do have a point there, I must admit.
> That's usually not the goal of sniping. The goal of sniping is to get the
> item for less that you think others would be willing to pay. Then again
> if they really had entered their maximum, the technique wouldn't work. The
> problem is that most people really don't think through what their maximum is
> and are willing to change their "maximum" several times over the course of
> the week.
This is a VERY good point. If one is doing it for business, say,
buying and selling Ciscos, it's easy to attach a dollar figure to an
item. But when I do a search for "pdp* -plasma", it's sometimes
difficult to figure out how much money something is worth to me.
Often it even varies with my mood!
> I usually bid my maximum right away. I'm never disappointed because someone
> else was willing to pay more, because I am unwilling to pay more. Sniping
> really doesn't buy you anything but the satisfaction of knowing you've paid
> more than you were originally willing to.
I assume you mean "less"?
-Dave McGuire
Hmm, I dunno about reputable, I called them to try and sell them this stupid
origin 200 I have an the guy was a total ass.. he asked me if the stupid
thing was stolen.. what a moron
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Do you still have the TK50s for sale?
Ron Thompson
Calibration / Integration Specialist
EFW, Inc.
4700 Marine Creek Pkwy.
Fort Worth, TX 76179
rthompson(a)efw.com
On December 21, Ernest wrote:
> Oh, I know. Getting mugged isn't personal either, it's just a means to an
> end.
Oh good grief.
> ...and like every fantasy, most of learn at a young age that there will
> always be someone to ruin it for us. That's why snipping is self
> perpetuating -if you know that there's going to be a jerk at the end no
> matter what you do, the jerk might as well be you. Thus, the snipping
> continues.
Oh good grief, again.
Let me guess...do you actually BELIEVE that "it's not whether you
win or lose, it's how you play the game"??
The world is an unfair place. Either deal with it, or go see a
shrink. It's really as simple as that. I'm not going to give up my
favorite shopping venue because some idealistic fool wants to turn it
into some form of K-12 entertainment.
-Dave McGuire
On December 20, Doug Salot wrote:
> Personally, I find sniping inconvenient because to do it well requires
> third-party software -- it should be built into the system. But it's just
No it doesn't...all you need is a web browser. NOBODY'S
connectivity is so bad that you can't get a URL out on a TCP
connection in less than a few seconds...
-Dave McGuire
On December 21, Iggy Drougge wrote:
> But do the end justify the means? I have also found it an unpleasurable
> experience to lose something which I have put a bid on in some cases several
> weeks ago, only to be outbid at the very last minute, possibly when I'm at
> school or fast asleep. In a real-life auction, there are the three rounds in
> which you may increase your bid, giving everyone a fair chance. On Ebay, the
> auctions do instead go on for weeks, and jumping in at the very end of this
> time frame is really quite dishonest. Some play with their cards on the table,
> whereas the snipers literally rip the thing out of your hands. It's really
> annoying, and and example of very bad behaviour. Perhaps the reason why
> anarchy doesn't work very well.
While I do agree, and I admit that this is no excuse, I must point
out that a *lot* of people snipe. It boils down to this...if you want
a particular item, either snipe...or be sniped.
People need to stop comparing eBay to a "regular" or "real life" (what
exactly is "real life"?) auction. While eBay calls itself an
"auction", it is very different from what is traditionally known as an
auction. That's just the way it is. If you think this is a good
thing, so be it. If you think it ISN'T a good thing...well, don't use
it! As long as eBay has many happy buyers and many happy sellers (I
happen to be both!) it will do fine...and anything that has happy
followers will always have a group of people with sour grapes who do
nothing but complain about things.
-Dave McGuire
Can anyone tell me what kind of computers were in the movie "Colossus the
Forbin Project (1969)". I found a pointer and I vaguely remember the movie,
but I don't remember the computers. U.S. and Russia develop computers to
control nuclear weapons, the computers take over.
http://www.stanford.edu/~mgritter/colossus.html
Mike
mmccfadden(a)cmh.edu
On December 19, Jim Arnott wrote:
> Snipe software??? Available for a Mac? If so, where?
Uhh, ftp.netscape.com?
The only thing one needs for effective sniping is a web browser,
good connectivity, and perhaps an alarm clock.
Some tips, from one of the most effective snipers I know (ME!):
- Use the "sign in" feature...saves keystrokes when bidding.
- Use two windows side-by-side: one on the main auction page,
keep hitting "reload" to watch the countdown; one with a
pre-prepared bid ready to hit "place bid". Scroll this one
up a lot to minimize mouse movement distance to hit the button.
- If you think another sniper is watching, it doesn't hurt to have
another pre-prepared bid window ready to hit "place bid" but with
a higher amount. Keep it iconified and out of the way, but
keep it accessible.
- Bid odd amounts...not $150.00, but $156.56. Shift to the high side
of ones or cents. Often people will bid even amounts like
$150.00 or slightly higher like $150.01.
- Keep a running idea of network lag between you & eBay as you hit
"reload" on your main auction page watching the countdown. Use
this information when placing your bid.
- The faster your connectivity (actually its more the latency that
counts, but faster connectivity usually means lower-latency
connectivity) the better off you are. I usually shoot for the
last 3-4 seconds of the auction.
- Know the "deep pockets" bidders. People like "at90210",
"dimethyl", and "shirotori"...these folks have more money than
all of us put together, and have no qualms with spending it
to keep you from getting what you want if you piss them off.
Don't snipe the big spenders, or you'll never win an auction
again. It's as simple as that.
- Know who your friends are. If you find yourself constantly
coming up against the same person on stuff, send him or her
some email. Get to know the other person. Try to form some
sort of working relationship that facilitates communication
on a per-auction basis. Decide amongst yourselves who wants
or needs the item more. Concede once in a while. It's better
to have friends than enemies...and sometimes those friends
spot things that you may have missed.
Is sniping morally wrong? I dunno, ask a priest. Is it rude?
Definitely. But there are SO many people who do it, screw it. If you
snipe someone and can't live with yourself afterwards, then don't
snipe anymore. But if you're sick of BEING sniped, or of simply not
winning the auctions that you want to win, then go for it. It's a
cold, cruel world out there.
-Dave McGuire
> Anybody know where I can find a MACLISP reference manual?
>
> (BTW, In this case, MAC refers to Project MAC (Multiple
> Access Computer?), and not the cute little box from Cupertino).
I have a copy of Bernie Greenburg's MacLisp manual.
However, due to an on-going problem in which I sent my
DECsystem-10 Commands Manual to Eric Smith for copying,
and due to the fact that despite his best intentions,
I still have not received it back, I'm a bit reluctant
to let it out of my grasp for scanning.
I'd photocopy it, but it's already a third generation
copy, I think, so I'm not sure how well it would turn
out. I'll bring it in to the office and give it a try...
However, if anyone could get Eric Smith to actually
get me my DEC manual back, I'd feel a little safer in
letting it go.
Bear in mind I consider Eric to honest and forthright,
he's clearly just spreading himiself a little too thinly.
But when things like this happen in transactions with
people I meet in a public forum, I'm just unable to
bring myself to take a chance again... conditionally.
Regardless, if it looks like it will copy OK, I'll
just send you a copy.
Regards,
-doug q
The Pro 325, 350 and the 380s use the same case which is about 3 inches wider
than the Rainbows. The Pro series can be upgraded by just swapping the
Motherboards. They also have an interior upright cardcage for the accessory
cards. I think this is why they need the larger case.
In the Rainbow the accessory cards lay parallel and on top of the Motherboard.
Both use different floor stands that look alike but are different sizes.
Paxton
I can be 100% certain that my Pro 325 is in the large case (same length as
the desktop BA23 pretty much). And the Rainbow and Pro 350 that I have seen
were in the same size case.. I dunno if I saw a 380 or not, but if Emanuel
has one then I've seen it and it would live in the same case also... If
anyone has manuals and software for the 325 let me know, I have none and am
about to deepsix it due to frustration.
Will J
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
In case anyone has never heard this before:
http://vortex.com/rmf/daisy.ram
Bell Labs IBM 7094 Sings Daisy
Requires RealPlayer, which sucks horrifically.
***
Does anyone know of a way to download and save streaming RM files and then
convert them to another format?
***
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
I have a TU10 that has worked, generally, for the 10 years since I got
it. However, earlier this year it failed, with problems during the load
sequence.
I have traced the problem to failed (and nearly failed) vacuum
sensors. The two "fail safe" sensors at the bottom of the two columns had
both failed (I suspect because during operation they were always in a low
pressure state), and one of the other sensors near the bottom of one column
had also failed. I suspect at least one more failure is imminent.
(The test is easy: if you can suck air thru it, its bad. ;-) I suppose
there is some kind of diaphragm in there which gets a hole it in when it
breaks).
I was able to pull some from a DG tape drive, but clearly I need either
find a good supply of good ones, a supply of equivalents, or learn how to
repair the buggers (seems unlikely).
I have two different (presumably equivalent part numbers) for it:
The original part is:
Fairchild P/N PSF 100A
Another (probably replacement) is:
Micro Pneumatic Logic, P/N MPL 503. (These guys still exist! So I am
sending them an e-mail. But new ones are bound to be pricey).
Thanks in advance for any help.
Jay
---
Jay R. Jaeger The Computer Collection
cube1(a)home.com visit http://members.home.net/thecomputercollection