- test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org - classiccmp.org

Preservation of Historical Computer Systems

by Qstieee＠aol.com

I found Digital Technical Journal Volume 8 Number 3 which contains the subject article title by Burnet and Supnik. If they are on this list and approve it, I will scan this in and make it available.

23 years, 7 months

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Cromemcos at Re-PC

by SecretaryBird＠SoftHome.net

Just out of curiosity, I am wondering... Did anyone here manage to score those Cromemco systems I mentioned a couple months ago that ended up being sent to Re-PC in Seattle? Just hoping that they found a good home. :) -- Scarletdown

23 years, 7 months

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Broken SIMM tabs on Mac IIci

by doug_jackson＠citadel.com.au

I have had success in the past using a folded piece of paper (many times) to chock the broken simm. It may work, but it's a *really* messy solution Doug Jackson Director, Managed Security Services Citadel Securix +61 (0)2 6290 9011 (Ph) +61 (0)2 6262 6152 (Fax) +61 (0)414 986 878 (Mobile) Web: <www.citadel.com.au> Offices in Melbourne, Sydney, Canberra, Hong Kong, Boston -----Original Message----- From: Bob Lafleur [mailto:bob_lafleur@technologist.com] Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 4:26 PM To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org Subject: Broken SIMM tabs on Mac IIci Ok, so I did it... When trying to remove the SIMMS in my Mac IIci I broke some of the little tiny plastic tabs, so now the new SIMMs won't lock in. Is there some "fix" to get the SIMMs to stay in, short of soldering new sockets into the board (which I am not about to do)? Also, I broke them on Bank A. I assume you can't use RAM in Bank B without having Bank A full... Should I just trash the motherboard? Or can I salvage it somehow? Are these SIMM tabs particularly vulnerable, especially on this old equipment? I broke them on 2 machines, and on the 2nd one I did, I was trying to be very careful. - Bob (not a happy MACer today) CAUTION - The information in this message may be of a privileged or confidential nature intended only for the use of the addressee or someone authorised to receive the addressee's e-mail. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this email in error please notify postmaster(a)citadel.com.au. Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender and may not necessarily reflect the views of Citadel Securix. Feel free to visit the Citadel Securix website! Click below. http://www.citadel.com.au

23 years, 7 months

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ASR33 Problems

by david_comley＠yahoo.com

I consolidated Tony's and Dwight's comments onto one post... thanks to both for your comments so far. >Ah... Do you hapeen to know if the original position of the brush holder >was way out? If so, then it's possible the previous owner tried to >compensate for that using the 'rangefinder' adjustment on the RX module >(the slider + scale near the receiving magnet). Have you treid the affect >of this adjustment? I tweaked this last night to see what would happen, but there was no improvement. But it was an interesting exercise anyway. >You can elminiate the keyboard by trying the reader. If the reader works >perdectly, then the keyboard must be the problem. My guess is that it >won't, though. You can open the tope of the rrrreader and hold the tape >sensor down by hand. That will read continual Rubouts. Or hold down some >the pins too to get different characters. Of course if you have some >correctly punched tape, use that. Good idea - I re-connected the reader and tried it. The codebars track exactly what the sense pins read, so that would point to a keyboard problem. >Hang on... What happens if you press a (printing) key -- say 'A' and >REPT. Do you get consistently correct punching? What is printed? Always >the same (incorrect) chaaracter? (if so, which, and where is it on the >cylinder). A few different characters (again, where are they on the >cylinder)? Considerable improvement after working over the carriage again. Many of the characters now print correctly using the REPT workaround. Some examples that don't: Prints Typed As ----- ------ Q S (consistently) 8 : (consistently) 9 ; (consistently) X P,Z E E occasionally C W W occasionally G A C Haven't had time to analyze these yet in terms of where they lie on the typewheel. >Besides checking the clearence, it might be a good idea >to remove the keyboard and watch things while hitting >a key. You might see something a little sluggish. >You'll need to manually reset it after each keystroke. >It is a lot easier to see things when the machine isn't >jumping everytime you hit a key. >Dwight I'll try this again. I am sure that this is keyboard related. List of other things to fix: dashpot - carriage always sticks at l/h side. reader doesn't advance tape - presumably it should. Regards, Dave __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site http://webhosting.yahoo.com

23 years, 7 months

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Dying VaxStation 4000 VLC - help?

by mtapley＠swri.edu

> The PSU is an H7109-00. Mine says Model Number: H7109-C on it. >>Most DEC machines have at least one power-OK line from the PSU. > >I want to figure out which that one is. I think there is no such line. On the mainboard connector to the PSU, there are Red (3), Black (4), Orange (1), and Blue (1) wires. Red are all connected together, and all go to appx. 5 V when the system is on. Black are all connected together and to ground and are always at 0 V. Orange is one wire, and goes to appx. 12 V when the system is on. Blue is one wire, and goes to appx. 12 V. when the system is on. The red and black cross-connections are true on the mainboard and on the PSU. They are not all adjacent on the connector, which makes not much sense to me, but that's how it is. Red and Black on the mainboard connect to the corresponding colors on the Disk power connector. As for voltage: I really need a good DVM. Calibrated the 12V setting at work against a good 4-digit fluke DVM, so I think my reading of 12.1V for orange and -12.0 for blue is close. Did not have time to check at 5V, but afterward measured 3 Ray-o-Vac Renewal D cells in series at 4.7 V, so I may not be way far off. If so, my reading of 5.3 to 5.4 for the Red group is worrisome. This reading is consistent even at the Disk power connector. Anyone else have a good VOM, a working VLC, and 3 Renewal cells? Or just the VOM and either of the other two? >I have not figured out correlation between temperature and working status. I know more about it, now. Turned it on cold, it ran for a while, then failed, then started to try to boot again. Blew the hair dryer on it, it went into hard fail almost immediately and did not try to boot. Blew a fan on it, it went OK and actually ran far enough to give me a login prompt. In both cases I was trying to aim at the part of the mainboard near the power connector, but the system is so small I was probably affecting most of the mainboard and possibly a lot of the PSU as well. Near the power connector are two power-looking components (as in they have big leads, and in one case a heat-sink attach point, whereas nearly everything else is microscopic surface-mount stuff). One is a power-transistor looking thing with a heat-sink attach point (but no heat-sink) that has 3 pins and says LT1086CT 9151 The right leg is connected to 5.3 V (Red-wires). The center leg stays around 3.4 V, system running or failed. The left leg stays around 2.15 V, running or hung (as far as I can tell). The other is an 8-pin DIP that says M9124 LM393N QST Are these two part of a crowbar circuit, or reset circuit, or some such? Should I be able to see some clue about why the system hangs by looking at their pins? - Mark

23 years, 7 months

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Looking for RL02 prints and maint docs

by spector＠zeitgeist.com

I just took delivery of a PDP-11/23 with (amongst other things) 4 RL02 drivers on it . The system was in the hands of another collector in florida and has not been powered up in quite a while. I would like to make sure the drivers are cleaned and lubed before I attempt to power them up... does anyone have any points to a print-set and maintenance data for these drives? Any experiences people have had bringing RL02s back to life would be greatly appreciated! Also, any pointers/experiences re: potential cleaning issues of old RL02 packs themselves would be helpful too... regards, David Spector ------------------------------------------------------------------------ - David HM Spector spector(a)zeitgeist.com software architecture - network/security consultation technical due diligence - technology planning/analysis Office:(631)261-5013 Cell: (631)431-5756

23 years, 7 months

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ASR33 Problems

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "David Comley" <david_comley(a)yahoo.com> > >>Hi >> You haven't made it clear about punching. Does it >work >>correctly when you use the punch?? If it does, it >can't >>be the keyboard, distributor or codebars. All of >these must >>work to have the punch work correctly. The punch is >>mechanically connected to the code bars of the >printer. > >When I punch single characters to tape, they punch >incorrectly. When I hold REPT and punch to tape, the >correct character is punched. Hi Ok, this is entirely different. I would have to agree that it is more likely in the keyboard. Nothing much else would cause this problem. Most all of the other moving parts would respond close to the same for the repeat key ( still might be something that is sticky though ). Besides checking the clearence, it might be a good idea to remove the keyboard and watch things while hitting a key. You might see something a little sluggish. You'll need to manually reset it after each keystroke. It is a lot easier to see things when the machine isn't jumping everytime you hit a key. Dwight > >I had the keyboard apart last night. Cleaned the >contact wires and the common terminals. Tonight I am >planning to reset the contact wire clearances as the >manual comments on contact bounce being an issue. > >Regards, > >Dave > > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos >http://launch.yahoo.com/u2 >

23 years, 7 months

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Apple Service Source

by Marion.Bates＠Dartmouth.EDU

A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: text/enriched Size: 867 bytes Desc: not available Url : http://www.classiccmp.org/pipermail/cctalk/attachments/20021114/56a0c157/at…

23 years, 7 months

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Dying VaxStation 4000 VLC - help?

by mtapley＠swri.edu

Antonio said: >I opened up my VLC and it has an H7109-C PSU in it. Ok, good. Matches mine, so at least I know where to get another one of those. >Can't you either borrow >a known good one or at the very least pick up a VLC >from ebay for less than $50? Possibly, exploring that. But I'm reluctant to board-swap until/unless I get reasonably strong evidence that it really is the PSU. Although in this case, the failure is obviously not enough to fry anything, so I'm not so likely to damage the known-good component by board-swapping. This PSU is pretty clean and doesn't show much evidence of damage. Though I'll bet a capacitor with bad ESR looks like a healthy capacitor. --- Thanks for the reference, Frank! JT Computer may well end up $50 richer. --- Tony said: >_Sometimes_ the voltages are marked on the PSU PCB (particularly if it's >a 3rd-party unit). But I guess you've looked there. I did not unscrew the PCB from its mounting plate so I could see the back side. But all the Red wires soldered down to little metal strain-relief collars standing side by side, with resistance between them = 0. Likewise for all the Black wires. Resistance Red/Black was about 5 Ohms, FWIW. >What you are >looking for is a +5V or ground signal that's _not_ directly connected to >the appropriate PSU output (check this with an ohmmeter with the machine off) I'm pretty sure it doesn't exist. See my earlier post. >Buy a can of freezer spray. It's not _that_ expensive, and it'll do the >job properly. Plan A for the weekend involves a trip to the local elx. place. I'll try to get freezer spray and replacements for all of the electrolytics near the output wires on the PSU. Then I'll try to nerve myself for some soldering. I'll keep the freezer spray away from the PSU. ---- Toth said: >It certainly sounds like something is overheating. You might want to try >using some cardboard to carefully direct the airflow from your hair dryer. OK, will try it tonight. >Do these systems have an internal fan? I haven't been inside one enough to >remember, but if they do, is the one in your system running properly? Two, side-by-side, mounted in the PSU housing. They suck air out of the mainboard compartment into the PSU housing, and it then exhausts out the far side of the case. They are not far from the connector and the components I listed. Both of them turn when the switch goes on. (Thanks for the suggestion, Emanuel!) Both had a *little* dirt around them, but I cleaned that up (and both still turn). The SCSI cable partially obstructs their apertures - I'll try to alleviate that. >Linear Technology 1.5A adjustable voltage regulator, TO-220 package. That's it. ... (!) "100% Thermal Shutdown Functional Test." !?!?!? Maybe I'll give that part some stricter attention with the hair-dryer. Any chance that thermal-shutdown function could be getting too sensitive on me? Or that its thermal mounting has been messed up somehow? The mounting tab looks like it could go to a heat-sink, but there's no heat-sink attached. But there *is* a matching hole underneath in the mainboard! How do I know if it goes into thermal shutdown? >Low Power Low Offset Voltage Dual Comparator > >Datasheets can be found here: > http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM393.html Ok, what's it doing there? Anyway, I'm going to try to probe its outputs tonight and see whether they are in different states when the machine is locked up. As always, I'm indebted for all your help! More reports tomorrow. - Mark

23 years, 7 months

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Removing Mac IIci floppy to replace battery

by bob_lafleur＠technologist.com

Does anyone know the trick to get the Mac IIci floppy drive out to gain access to the battery? I've got the hard drive out, and I took out the (1) screw in the upper-left of the drive holder. Are there release clips to release the drive holder? If so, where? Thanks. - Bob

23 years, 7 months

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Putting PDP11/44 on the net...?

by djg＠drs-esg.com

For my online PDP-8 I have it attached to a serial port on my web server/gateway machine (which also meets the 10 year rule, a Swan 486 upgraded to 133 MHz runing Linux). I have a program I wrote which is run from inetd when somebody telnets to the port. It sets up the serial port and knows enough telnet protocol to tell the other end to go into unbuffered mode. ftp://ftp.pdp8.net/software/serial_telnet/ It logs the serial traffic to /tmp and errors to syslog. The errors are harmless cmd and option ignored messages for parts of the protocol it ignores. It also uses a lock file in /var/lock to prevent multiple connections. I also have the PDP-8 power controllers on the PC parallel port with a custom board so I can power up the machine when someone want to use it. David Gesswein http://www.pdp8.net/ -- Run an old computer with blinkenlights.

23 years, 7 months

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TI Explorer or 1500 software/docs?

by foo＠siconic.com

Does anyone here have a TI Explorer or TI 1500? I'm especially after the original manuals and software that came with it, specifically a program called "LMENU" (something like that). If anyone has it and wants to make a little dough please come forward. <sellam(a)vintage.org> Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org * Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *

23 years, 7 months

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Dying VaxStation 4000 VLC - help?

by mtapley＠swri.edu

John Allain wrote: >Get the PSU part number and I'll look it up, >or check: > http://pages.prodigy.net/ppsjm/PART+ACU-20NUMBER.htm Prodigy says that URL is not found. However http://pages.prodigy.net/ppsjm/PART%20NUMBER.htm works....Oh. I get it. AAARRRGGHHHH! ;-) But no H7109 listed. And Antonio supplied: > The PSU is an H7109-00. Google for H7109-00 turns up nothing. Google for H7109 turns up two dealers (the cheapest in Irving, TX(!), at http://www.jtcomputer.com) which list an H7109-C as a "VAXSTATION 4000 VLC POWER SUPP". This is the same thing, yes? Anybody have experience with, or opinions on, that dealer? There are also multiple other H7109 (-A, -B) listed, which look not to be what I'm after. --- Tony Duell wrote: >Most DEC machines have at least one power-OK line from the PSU. I want to figure out which that one is. >OK, how many pins is the connector between the PSU and the mainboard? Will count, but order of 9. >You've identified +5 and +12 (and ground) -- presumably on the disk power >connector. Exactly. It was an informed guess - Orange insulation for +12, and red for +5, and Black for Ground. >Can you find those on the mainboard connector? There were similar colors on wires from the mainboard PS connector to the Power supply. I actually measured the voltages on the Power-supply side of that connection, not on the mainboard or the disk-drive connector. I checked that the resistances between what I thought were the corresponding pins on the mainboard PS connector and the mainboard disk-drive connector were 0 (with everything unplugged), just to be sure. Probably I should double-check voltages on the disk-drive connector, to rule out connector problems at the mainboard-PS connector. >What's left? >Probably at least one -ve voltage. And maybe a power-OK line. Oh, I also found -12V (found by accident - needle swung the wrong way) and it was about -11.5 V (I think). That was a blue wire. Forgot to report that. There were about 5 wires I did not check. I'll look at them tonight; if I'm lucky, the power-OK indicator, if present, will switch from one state to the other while I'm watching it. Hopefully it'll stay in each state long enough that I can see the needle move. >One of the few components that gets better when warm is a faulty >electrolytic capacitor. I have not figured out correlation between temperature and working status. Yesterday morning it worked for a long time when booted up from cold, then failed. Cycling power did not make it work better. >It's a pity you don't have a 'scope (to look for >ripple on the PSU lines) or an ESR meter (to check all the electrolytics >on the secondary side of the PSU). I've been thinking that, but unlike my wife's hobby (sewing) my hobby does not turn a profit (or rather, displace household expenditures). Though I might claim some credit if I ever get around to fixing that $%^&* Stylewriter.... Anyway the o-scope and ESR meter budget is zero at the moment. Sigh. >This does sound like power trouble. If not, then maybe gently warming >(hair dryer) and cooling (freezer spray) the components on the mainboard >will identify any that have gone thermally intermitant. Ooo, neat idea. The hair dryer I have. Don't have freezer spray, but maybe I can use a bike tire or something. Is there any reason (other than the possibility of slowly fatal electrocution) not to try the same trick on the power supply? I'd have to run it opened up and avoid touching the heat-sinks, etc, but I don't recall any reason it shouldn't run that way. - Mark

23 years, 7 months

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Got a Apple Cube at Auction and Other items

by jrkeys＠concentric.net

Yesterday I picked up a Apple Cube, Pro KB, the two clear plastic speakers, power brick, and VGA extension cable from a guy outside of the auction. Had I got there 20 minutes earlier I could of had all the above and a 17" monitor all for $60. Now if I could just locate a cool looking clear plastic G4 tower and a Apple flat panel for under a $100. :-) Also got a IBM PC XT model 286 (5162) needs to be cleaned up a bit before a test run can be made. Got a strange looking device by Imsi called a PC Stylus. And a Apple High Resolution RGB monitor.

23 years, 7 months

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ASR33 Problems

by david_comley＠yahoo.com

>Hi > You haven't made it clear about punching. Does it work >correctly when you use the punch?? If it does, it can't >be the keyboard, distributor or codebars. All of these must >work to have the punch work correctly. The punch is >mechanically connected to the code bars of the printer. When I punch single characters to tape, they punch incorrectly. When I hold REPT and punch to tape, the correct character is punched. I had the keyboard apart last night. Cleaned the contact wires and the common terminals. Tonight I am planning to reset the contact wire clearances as the manual comments on contact bounce being an issue. Regards, Dave __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos http://launch.yahoo.com/u2

23 years, 7 months

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Wanted: PSU components for a VAX 11/750

by jwillis＠arielusa.com

Wanted: Any or all of the following: -875 Power Controller -H7104-C 2.5VDC PSU -H7104-D 5VDC PSU

23 years, 7 months

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name that DEC control panel!

by healyzh＠aracnet.com

> anyone know what machine this panel comes from? > The seller claims it's a PDP-11 but I don't see enough bits. > Possibly a PDP-8 or educational unit? I've never seen the > lights along the side - on an '11.. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2070195230 Here is what I posted a couple days ago to info-pdp11. BTW, someone else commented that the actual CPU on the M7341 is a i8008. Zane "1.1 Introduction Digital Equipment Corporation's Microprocessor Series (MPS) consists of a group of four M series modules and an optional operators control panel, designed to efficiently perform a range of process control and decision-making functions that were previously uneconomic subjects for automation. When used together, these modules can from low-cost digital control systems that exhibit the characteristics normally attributed to more costly minicomputer-based systems. With this capability, systems structured from MPS modules can perform the functions of dedicated controllers, operate as a Central Processor Unit (CPU) in intellegent terminals, perform data aquisition and analysis tasks in the laboratory, and automate a host of industrial processes 1.2 General Description The Microprocessor Series is listed below by model number and name: * M7341 Processor Module * M7344-YA 1K Read/Write Memory Module * M7344-YB 2K Read/Write Memory Module * M7344-YC 4K Read/Write Memory Module * M7345 Programmable Read-Only Memory Module * M7346 External Event Detection Module * KC341 Monitor/Control Panel In a systems context, the M7341 Processor Module (PM) acts as the central processor unit with the remaining modules performing supporting functions. Activity in a given system, then, is directed by a unique stored program contained in a read/write and/or a programmable read-only memory and executed by the PM. A major factor in the structuring of an MPS system for a specific application is the development of this unique system program by the user. To support user development of application software, Digital provides the Microprocessor Series Software Tools (MPSST) package that includes the following routines: * Microprocessor Langauge Editor (MLE) * Microprocessor Langauge Assembler (MLA) * Microprocessor Read-Only Memory Programmer (MRP) * Microprocessor Host Loader (MHL) * Microprocessor Debugging Program (MDP) * Master Tape Duplicator (MTD) In addition, the Microprocessor Program Loader (MPL) is available to users of the optional KC341 Monitor Control Panel." In looking further at the handbook it appears that the MPSST package is run on a PDP-8/e, /f or /m and is papertape based. The MRP expects a MR873 PROM writer to be used in conjunction with the PDP-8. Looks like an interesting device, to bad the one on ebay is just the front panel.

23 years, 7 months

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Dying VaxStation 4000 VLC - help?

by Antonio.Carlini＠riverstonenet.com

>Google for H7109 turns up two dealers (the cheapest in Irving, TX(!), at >http://www.jtcomputer.com) which list an H7109-C as a "VAXSTATION 4000 VLC POWER SUPP". This is the >same thing, yes? Anybody have experience with, or opinions on, that dealer? There are also multiple >other H7109 (-A, -B) listed, which look not to be what I'm after. I opened up my VLC and it has an H7109-C PSU in it. Some googling suggests that an H7109-A is for a VT1000 and an H7109-B is for a VXT2000. They may well be similar in size from what I remember of the respective enclosures. I'd power up and check a few voltages but my multimeter is in the office ($70K logic analyser, $20K scope, no multimeter - at least not with leads I can find!. Tsk) Isn't $50 a bit steep for a PSU? Can't you either borrow a known good one or at the very least pick up a VLC >from ebay for less than $50? Last time I opened up one of these PSUs (admittedly a VS4000-90 one) it didn't look that hairy (OK - all I had to do was dig out enough dust and cruft to let it spin its fans and come up ...). If you knew that a replacement PSU fixed the problem, you'd know that you had a tractable problem and where to concentrate. Equally if a new PSU did not help even with only the mainboard connected, you'd know that you were likely to be in for a *much* harder time. Antonio

23 years, 7 months

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Putting PDP11/44 on the net...?

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On Nov 12, 14:42, John Lawson wrote: > > Since I'm (mostly to very dumb) when it comes to these things - I would > like to ask for opinions/advice/recommendations from the List on what the > best way would be to attach one of the terminal ports on the machine to > the Net, to allow folks to telnet in and play with the system remotely. > > I was thinking phone-line -> modem-> Net-to-serial-box-> 11/44 port. Do you have some sort of "always-on" connection from the your local network to the Internet? Or do you use dialup? The easiest way is to use a terminal server box: net -> terminal server -> 11/44 port A suitable terminal server might be smething like a Shivaport (recent hence moderately expensive), an old Emulex Performance 4000 or Performance 2000 (if you can find a cheap one that's not died), a Racal Interlan, a Xylogics Annex, or any of several other possible brands that you might pick up secondhand. Not Windows Terminal Services or the LTSP (Linux Terminal Server Project), though -- they're for thin clients for Windows/Unix. DEC used to make a suitable box themselves. Although they're called "terminal servers", most -- including all the ones I've mentioned -- can be configured so you telnet in to them and make a serial connection out to one of the serial ports, which looks to the machine it's connected to as if a serial terminal has connected to it. On many of them, the serial port you connect to can be automatically chosen according to the port number you use in the telnet command (eg telnet tsrv01 3003 might be used to establish a connection to whatever's on serial port 3 of tsrv01). We use several of them to get remote access to the console serial lines of key switches and routers across campus, and I have a couple at home which allow my Unix machine to connect to the serial ports on various machines, including a couple of PDP-11s. -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

23 years, 7 months

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TI Explorer or 1500 software/docs?

by xds_sigma7＠hotmail.com

Well, I don't have any manuals, or even or a terminal, or for that matter, the side of the case... But I do have a TI 1500.. If you get software and manuals, I could use copies please... Will J _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus

23 years, 7 months

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Terminal Servers [was: Putting PDP11/44 on the net]

by fmc＠reanimators.org

David Woyciesjes <dwoyciesjes(a)comcast.net> wrote: > Speaking of terminal servers, I picked up a pair of Datability Vista > VCP-1000 terminal servers when my (old) work were going to just toss > them out. Anybody have any experience with these? Where I used to work, I took to calling ours the "Disability". It earned the name. LAT: pretty good TCP/IP: would sometimes lose its configuration SLIP/PPP: usable, if you're willing to give all your users the "enable" password (we weren't) At least that was my experience with one of them around 1992-1993. Rumor was that there was a later firmware revision that addressed some of the TCP/IP and PPP problems but it never made its way into our units. The unit that was used primarily to hook a bunch of terminals to a smaller bunch of VMS hosts with LAT just worked, the one that we expected to do TCP/IP stuff was a real pain. -Frank McConnell

23 years, 7 months

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Putting PDP11/44 on the net...?

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On Nov 12, 21:29, Sellam Ismail wrote: > On Tue, 12 Nov 2002, Peter Turnbull wrote: > > > Although they're called "terminal servers", most -- including all the ones > > I've mentioned -- can be configured so you telnet in to them and make a > > serial connection out to one of the serial ports, which looks to the > > machine it's connected to as if a serial terminal has connected to it. On > > This can also be done with a Linux box (a homebrew terminal server). > Multi-port serial cards can be found for very reasonable prices. > > I'm sure there's a package that someone's already written to do this too. There's something called Linux Terminal Server Poject (LTSP) but it's a different sort of thing. It's to support thin client network machines, not serial lines. You could certainly do the job with a Linux machine, even for a dialup into the Linux machine to connect the caller to another serial port, but it would require some programming. Terminal server hardware designed to do the job would be easier and quicker to set up, and probably cheaper to run. -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

23 years, 7 months

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More micom pictures...

by wh.sudbrink＠verizon.net

Due to popular demand, I've added close ups of the keyboard and each of the circuit boards. The board pics are linked from the main picture page. They came out a little fuzzy (can't read the chip numbers). I'll try again tomorrow. http://osi.webhop.net Follow the links. I think I'll start dragging out my OSIs and taking pictures of them next. Bill

23 years, 7 months

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FW: Huge lot of DEC parts on E-pay

by kyrrin＠bluefeathertech.com

Found on Usenet. The starting bid is a bit high, but perhaps listmembers could pool resources...? I leave it to you to decide. If I were still collecting, I'd chip in a bit myself. Forwarded note follows... -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- From: "Douglas A. Gwyn" <DAGwyn(a)null.net> Newsgroups: comp.sys.dec.micro Subject: 26,000 Good DEC Spare Parts on eBay, Item # 2068638523 Complete inventory from jcmparts, guaranteed working and individually packaged. PDP parts( pdp8 11/34 11/44 11/70 etc), VAX parts( 11/780 11/785 VAX 6000 Series Vax 8000 series etc), Terminal parts( VT100 VT320 VT420 etc), Tape and Disk drive parts (RA81 RL02 RA80 etc), printer parts( LA100 LA120 LA36 LA75 LA50 etc) etc. ** If there is no bid over $3,500 for the entire lot, the material will be scrapped out for gold reclamation. ** Hopefully some DEC hobbyist will acquire this rather than see it scrapped! If I had more $$ I'd do it myself. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Bruce Lane, Owner & Head Hardware Heavy, Blue Feather Technologies -- http://www.bluefeathertech.com ARS KC7GR (Formerly WD6EOS) since 12-77 -- kyrrin(a)bluefeathertech.com "I'll get a life when someone demonstrates that it would be superior to what I have now..." (Taki Kogoma, aka Gym Z. Quirk)

23 years, 7 months

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Dying VaxStation 4000 VLC - help?

by Antonio.Carlini＠riverstonenet.com

>* Is there a service manual on-line for this machine? Any suggestions on >where to get one? I want things like connector pinouts (to see if there's a >power-fail line, or some such, and what it's expected to be), expected PS >voltages, things like that. There is a service manual (two IIRC - one for the VLC and one for the VLC and 4000-60 combined). The PSU is an H7109-00. >3) now, left power-on, the 8 LED's are on most of the time. Occasionally, All LEDs on is listed as "Power applied but no instruction run". If it always did this then the CPU system would be suspect (which is not really terribly good ...). However, given the symptoms described, I'd agree with the other posters who suspect a PSU issue. Antonio

23 years, 7 months

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micom 2000 pictures, etc.

by wh.sudbrink＠verizon.net

I've put up some pictures of the micom 2000: http://osi.webhop.net/ (follow the link from the main page) Be patient, the server is on a low end ADSL connection. If someone wants to copy these somewhere faster, please do. I'm going to keep it, so I need to move another system instead. I have a Commodore CBM 8032 with an 8050 dual 5 1/4" drive. Good cosmetic condition, unknown operational condition, no software, documentation or fuse holders. I'll put up some pictures tonight. It's a good bit lighter than the micom, but I would still prefer a local pick up if possible. Bill

23 years, 7 months

2
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Dying VaxStation 4000 VLC - help?

by mtapley＠swri.edu

All, Help! My cute little Vax 4000 VLC appears to be dying on me. * Is there a service manual on-line for this machine? Any suggestions on where to get one? I want things like connector pinouts (to see if there's a power-fail line, or some such, and what it's expected to be), expected PS voltages, things like that. * Is there someone near San Antonio with a working VLC that they don't mind if I abuse for voltage measurements, etc? Description of failure: 1) last time I played with it several months ago, it failed to boot for a while with the VRC-16, LK-401, and mouse plugged into the graphics card (yes I had S3 set correctly, because it later booted that way). Problem went away, and I assumed there were intermittent problems with the graphics card. (I'd never seen this with a console plugged into the MMJ). 2) Yesterday, it booted and ran for 2-3 hours with the VRC and kb. I happily assumed the "graphics card problem" had cured itself. I logged in, registered my Hobbyist licence, and started doing same on another (Alpha) machine. After a while, my wife came in and started fooling with HELP on the VAX. She hit 4 returns in a row, and it went dead (screen black). Tried re-start, no-go. Got rid of the VRC-16 and LK-401, plugged in the VT-320, reset S3. It *tried* to boot, but failed. 3) now, left power-on, the 8 LED's are on most of the time. Occasionally, they will flash patterns, and the console will show the initial banner and start the memory test. *Very* occasionally, it'll get as far as the chevron. This morning, after being off all night, it got to the chevron, accepted the "b dka100" command, and got about half way through the boot - then the 8 LED's came on and it was back to ground zero. Tests run last night: Pulled one and then both banks of RAM - no change. Pulled the graphics card - no change. Disconnected power and SCSI cable to hard drive - no change. Reseated all (4) socketed chips (maybe ROM and the Dallas time module?) on the motherboard. - no change. Did some measurements (details available) that make me think that 12V is actually about 11.5V, and 5V is actually about 5.1V. Gotta confirm this, my only tool is an old Radio Shack Archerkit analog, and I want to try it on a known voltage source. Tried to turn on without PS connected to motherboard (accidentally). Green LED on power supply board flashes, PS board makes crowbarring kind of noice. (Green LED is otherwise on steady starting about 0.5 sec. after switch closes until switch open). In the above, "no change" means LED's stayed lit - I didn't run long enough in any of those configs to see if it'd try to boot after a while. Power supply appears to be a switcher - lots of heavy heat-sinks on transistors, lots of diodes, dozens of resistors. Multi-layer PC board. There are several electrolytic (I think - cans, black wrapping over a silver-looking can) caps, as well as some other types I don't recognize. System is in pretty clean condition; I did not take out the motherboard but cleaned the visible side of it with a brush and IPA. The only real dirt accumulation was near the fans. No change. I obviously had it fairly far apart last night, so I was extremely pleased to see it start to boot this morning - disassembly by me is usually the death of a system. This one is nice to work on, mechanically. But it's still not running. I'm on digest mode on the list, so I'll be slow at replying unless you hit me at mtapley(a)swri.edu. Even then, I'm having minor email issues so there's often a couple hour delay. But I'll sure appreciate any help! - Mark PS: On Friday, I said (WRT big auction of DEC parts)... >...I don't think I need any parts now. The irony is not lost but not particularly appreciated :-(. But the question is which parts.... I'm tempted to just haul off and order a new power supply - I'm pretty sure I can board-swap that without killing anything.

23 years, 7 months

5
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Garage Sale updates

by jimw＠agora.rdrop.com

Greetings; After spending the last few (nearly 4) weeks sorting out the carnage from a Windoze induced system disaster... I'm getting back to being not significantly more behind than I was before the whole thing blew up in my face... Of course in the interim, I missed VCF 5 (snarkle, ramfle, mutter) and who knows what else... Most people who have claimed items from the Computer Garage 'Garage Sale' should have received them by now, thought the most recent three or four are still awaiting transport to the post. (my bad) And... still trying to remain above water, there are some new updates on the 'Garage Sale' page. http://www.rdrop.com/~jimw/Gsale And, since some of you have asked... There is also a link from the sale page to a 'State of the Garage' page, which attempts to detail the current state of affairs in my world. Note that I am still writing on this, so consider it to be in flux for the time being. Regards; -jim --- jimw(a)agora.rdrop.com The Computer Garage - http://www.rdrop.com/~jimw

23 years, 7 months

2
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ASR33 Problems

by david_comley＠yahoo.com

>Hi >I think you need to make this point clearer. When a character >is punched, the same character is miss printed on the platen? >This is how I read his original post. Even using the REPT key to workaround the codebar issue, I wasn't able to connect the carriage problem conclusively to either a rotational or a vertical problem. I think at this point I'm going to take the carriage off again and try a more thorough dismantle/clean/oil. Once I resolve the codebar issue it will be easier to diagnose the carriage problem with a clean mechanism. >This tells me it is something sticking in the linkage that goes >between the code bars and the print head( or he has it installed >wrong but that doesn't explain why it starts working with repeats ). >I would remove the print assembly and put it in some solvent >while moving the levers. Then clean it off/dry it and re-oil >it. You most likely have some dry oil that is sluggish. Getting >oil into the right place will take a bit. >In the service( military ), we used to clean things in a bath >of water and heavy detergent. This was done in an ultrasonic >cleaner. We'd then rinse and bake it at about 150F for a few >hours. Then Re-oil/grease, place on test bench and fine adjust. >I suspect that a good dish washing liquid would work. I remember using an arklone bath at a place I worked years ago for cleaning circuit boards. Probably taken a few years off my live expectancy breathing that stuff in. > >Basically, there are 3 possible problem areas : > >1) The keyboard contacts are not closing correctly, so the parallel data >output of the keyboard is incorrect. > >2) The distributor disk (rear right of the typing unit) is not correctly >serialising the data from the keyboard. Unlikely, but possible. > >3) The selector unit (rear left of the typing unit) is malfunctioning, >and is not correclty responding the receiving magnet. > I can see the armature 'stutter' when I punch the rubout key - by stutter, I mean that its movement looks slightly different between keypresses. So I'm inclined to think that the magnet is just responding to what it is receiving which is incorrect. I cleaned the distributor and reseated the brushes, readjusted the brush holder to the alignment mark per the adjustment procedure in the manual. So I'm back to option 1) - the keyboard - as the source of the problem. One thing I noticed last night was that the keyboard cover is broken. There are four round tabs, one at each corner, that fit into corresponding holes on the end plates. These are broken, so the cover can rock from side to side, pivoting on those center projections. I wonder if that could cause some sort of alignment problem within the keyboard ? Thanks for the suggestions - I will get to it again tonight and see what else I can find out. I hate the idea of opening that keyboard up... Dave __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos http://launch.yahoo.com/u2

23 years, 7 months

2
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ASR33 Problems

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk > >> >> Any Teletype ASR33 experts out there ? I have a couple >> of problems with a teletype that recently came my way. > >I believe the ASR33 manauls are available on a web site somewhere. If >you don't have them as printed books, then you want to get these files >and print them. They make life a lot easier. OK, I did a complete >strip-down, clean, oil, reassemble and adjust job on an ASR33 without the >manuals (and with never having seen the manuals), but then I tend to do >crazy things like that... > >> >> i) When I type a character from the keyboard in local >> mode, something else gets printed. What gets printed >> is not consistently the same character. I've watched >> the selector mechanism while I hit rubout (all marking >> codebars) and I can see that the codebars are not >> being consistently selected betwee key presses: >> sometimes I get 5 of them, sometimes 6 and >> occasionally all 8. The high order bits seem to be >> worst affected by this inconsistency. However if I >> hold down the repeat key and select a character, the >> right codebars are being selected. I punched a number >> of characters onto tape to verify this and they seem >> to be punching OK. This suggests to me that this isn't > >If the character _always_ punches correctly, then the right codebars are >being selected. So I assume this is not the case. Hi I think you need to make this point clearer. When a character is punched, the same character is miss printed on the platen? This is how I read his original post. This tells me it is something sticking in the linkage that goes between the code bars and the print head( or he has it installed wrong but that doesn't explain why it starts working with repeats ). I would remove the print assembly and put it in some solvent while moving the levers. Then clean it off/dry it and re-oil it. You most likely have some dry oil that is sluggish. Getting oil into the right place will take a bit. In the service( military ), we used to clean things in a bath of water and heavy detergent. This was done in an ultrasonic cleaner. We'd then rinse and bake it at about 150F for a few hours. Then Re-oil/grease, place on test bench and fine adjust. I suspect that a good dish washing liquid would work. You can find manuals at: http://www.pdp8.net/pdp8cgi/query_docs/query.pl?Search=teletype&stype=Parti… rd&fields=id%2Ctitle%2Cdate&debug=0&table=pdp8docs&orderby=sort%2Ctitle You'll need to paste it back together after the mail chops it. Dwight > >Basically, there are 3 possible problem areas : > >1) The keyboard contacts are not closing correctly, so the parallel data >output of the keyboard is incorrect. > >2) The distributor disk (rear right of the typing unit) is not correctly >serialising the data from the keyboard. Unlikely, but possible. > >3) The selector unit (rear left of the typing unit) is malfunctioning, >and is not correclty responding the receiving magnet. > >I would check (3) first. It may need to be removed, dismantled, cleaned, >and re-lubricated. It's not uncommon for parts to stick on old, gummy, >lubricant. > >> an electrical problem since whatever code the keyboard >> is sending is eventually being sensed correctly. >> >> ii) In addition to i) above, even if I do get all the >> codebars moving as required, the wrong characters are >> being printed. I removed the carriage, cleaned and >> oiled it and replaced it but this hasn't helped. > >How did you clean it? I have found that soaking compete assemblies in >solvent doesn't help much. You really have to take all the parts apart, >clean them, and then re-assemble them. If yoy've done this, then there >are a lot of sdjustment you'd have to set up. > >A character decoding problem must be in the carriage. There are 4 parts >to the decoder mechanism : > >2 bits -> one of 4 levels of lift of the type cylinder >1 bit -) rotate cylinder left or right >2 bits -> one of 4 angles (pairs of characters) of rotation of the cylinder >1 bit -> an extra 1 character angle rotate (it moves the selector bars >for the previous rotation selection slightly...). > >Figure out which mechanism is malfunctioning by comparing the position of >the character you get with the position of the character you should be >getting. Then work out what's not operating properly. > >-tony > >

23 years, 7 months

2
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Chip with holes in it

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

Hi The holes are just for automatic handling. It is so the robots that place the die, bonds the wires, places the lid and test the part know where pin 1 is. Dwight >From: "Benedict Bridgewater" <benb(a)Basit.COM> > >I'm curious if anyone can ID this chip on eBay: > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2070850586&rd=1 > >Does anyone know what the purpose/function of the holes in it are?! > >Ben > >

23 years, 7 months

1
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ASR33 Problems

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "David Comley" <david_comley(a)yahoo.com> > >>Hi >>I think you need to make this point clearer. When a >character >>is punched, the same character is miss printed on the >platen? >>This is how I read his original post. > >Even using the REPT key to workaround the codebar >issue, I wasn't able to connect the carriage problem >conclusively to either a rotational or a vertical >problem. I think at this point I'm going to take the >carriage off again and try a more thorough >dismantle/clean/oil. Once I resolve the codebar issue >it will be easier to diagnose the carriage problem >with a clean mechanism. > >>This tells me it is something sticking in the linkage >that goes >>between the code bars and the print head( or he has >it installed >>wrong but that doesn't explain why it starts working >with repeats ). >>I would remove the print assembly and put it in some >solvent >>while moving the levers. Then clean it off/dry it and >re-oil >>it. You most likely have some dry oil that is >sluggish. Getting >>oil into the right place will take a bit. >>In the service( military ), we used to clean things >in a bath >>of water and heavy detergent. This was done in an >ultrasonic >>cleaner. We'd then rinse and bake it at about 150F >for a few >>hours. Then Re-oil/grease, place on test bench and >fine adjust. >>I suspect that a good dish washing liquid would work. > >I remember using an arklone bath at a place I worked >years ago for cleaning circuit boards. Probably taken >a few years off my live expectancy breathing that >stuff in. > >> >>Basically, there are 3 possible problem areas : >> >>1) The keyboard contacts are not closing correctly, >so the parallel data >>output of the keyboard is incorrect. >> >>2) The distributor disk (rear right of the typing >unit) is not correctly >>serialising the data from the keyboard. Unlikely, but >possible. >> >>3) The selector unit (rear left of the typing unit) >is malfunctioning, >>and is not correclty responding the receiving magnet. >> > >I can see the armature 'stutter' when I punch the >rubout key - by stutter, I mean that its movement >looks slightly different between keypresses. So I'm >inclined to think that the magnet is just responding Hi You haven't made it clear about punching. Does it work correctly when you use the punch?? If it does, it can't be the keyboard, distributor or codebars. All of these must work to have the punch work correctly. The punch is mechanically connected to the code bars of the printer. >to what it is receiving which is incorrect. I cleaned >the distributor and reseated the brushes, readjusted >the brush holder to the alignment mark per the >adjustment procedure in the manual. So I'm back to >option 1) - the keyboard - as the source of the >problem. One thing I noticed last night was that the >keyboard cover is broken. There are four round tabs, >one at each corner, that fit into corresponding holes >on the end plates. These are broken, so the cover can >rock from side to side, pivoting on those center >projections. I wonder if that could cause some sort of >alignment problem within the keyboard ? I'd think it would have to shift quite a bit to fail. It would be more likely that the switch contacts( at the right side of the keyboard ) might be dirty. For the pegs, one can drill the plastic and use some dowel rod( wood or plastic ) from the hobby shop to replace the alignment pegs. Since this had a punch on it, it most likely has a lot of chad stuck on things that can gum things up. > >Thanks for the suggestions - I will get to it again >tonight and see what else I can find out. I hate the >idea of opening that keyboard up... As I stated earlier( in this group ), you can disconnect the power from the motor and run things slowly to see what is missing. You just have to manually lock up the clutches since it isn't spinning fast enough to lock them with inertia. Dwight > >Dave > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos >http://launch.yahoo.com/u2 >

23 years, 7 months

1
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Putting PDP11/44 on the net...?

by jpl15＠panix.com

Since I'm (mostly to very dumb) when it comes to these things - I would like to ask for opinions/advice/recommendations from the List on what the best way would be to attach one of the terminal ports on the machine to the Net, to allow folks to telnet in and play with the system remotely. I was thinking phone-line -> modem-> Net-to-serial-box-> 11/44 port. There are 30 ports, all will run at least 9600, and I do have a registered and hosted (though inactive) domain name... not that the two would be related. This would of course be for during the periods that the system was on... and I sure as Hell am *not* considering leaving 'er up 24/7... electricity, noise, hAxOrZ (in that order) would deter that. Might be fun to have a mirrored emulator tho... Anyway - those of you who are smart in this area: how owuld you do this? Cheers John

23 years, 7 months

2
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Dying VaxStation 4000 VLC - help?

by allain＠panix.com

email recall.... > I'm tempted to just haul off and order a new > power supply - I'm pretty sure I can board-swap > that without killing anything. Get the PSU part number and I'll look it up, or check: http://pages.prodigy.net/ppsjm/PART%20NUMBER.htm John A.

23 years, 7 months

1
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DECmate III video too wide for the monitor?

by drido＠optushome.com.au

I've made an adapter to connect a DECmate III to a standard composite monitor (using the details posted here, thanks), but I haven't been able to get any of my monitors to work properly with it. On every monitor I've tried so far the one or both sides of the picture stretch off the screen and the h-pos/h-width controls do not provide enough adjustment to correct it. Is there a fix for this? Any suggestions of monitors that will work other than a VR201 (old mono monitors are getting hard to find around here, let alone a VR201).

23 years, 7 months

3
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hp 85

by emu＠ecubics.com

Anybody out here likes to get rid of one ? Would be interested in a working/nice model. Looks like the discussion of the HP calculators got me into that ;-) cheers

23 years, 7 months

1
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Looking for RL02 prints and maint docs

by Qstieee＠aol.com

Suggest you contact trestivo(a)concentric.net

23 years, 7 months

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Looking for RL02 prints and maint docs

by Antonio.Carlini＠riverstonenet.com

>attempt to power them up... does anyone have any points to a print-set >and maintenance data for these drives? Any experiences people have had You can find RL02 stuff at: http://www.mainecoon.com/classiccmp/ Antonio

23 years, 7 months

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Longevity of CD-R (was RE: Preserving Newspaper.)

by healyzh＠aracnet.com

> Zane wrote: > > It's supposed to be able to play VCD's, I've tried CD-RW and neither it > > or my old Sony DVD player would read them. > > There's a huge difference between a DVD player being able to play stamped > VCDs, and being able to play CD-R. Stamped discs can be read with the > red laser used for DVDs, but CD-R must be read with an IR laser. Many > DVD players only have the red laser. Ah. Any idea what type laser is needed for DVD-R then? > You didn't say how old your Sony DVD player is. Their first generation > players, the DVP-S7000 and DVP-S3000, have two lasers and can read CD-R. > I've never tried CD-RW in my DVP-S7000, though. I really had to think about how old it is! I got it about four years ago, though the model had been out for a while. IIRC, it was a midrange model, and I think it was one of the second generation players (I'd have had a first generation player, IF, they'd brought out the Star Wars Trilogy). Zane

23 years, 7 months

3
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Apple /// ProFile drivers

by classiccmp＠vintage-computer.com

Does anyone have the drivers for an Apple /// ProFile Hard Disk subsystem? I've had no luck finding these on the net. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Erik S. Klein

23 years, 7 months

2
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ASR33 Problems

by david_comley＠yahoo.com

Any Teletype ASR33 experts out there ? I have a couple of problems with a teletype that recently came my way. i) When I type a character from the keyboard in local mode, something else gets printed. What gets printed is not consistently the same character. I've watched the selector mechanism while I hit rubout (all marking codebars) and I can see that the codebars are not being consistently selected betwee key presses: sometimes I get 5 of them, sometimes 6 and occasionally all 8. The high order bits seem to be worst affected by this inconsistency. However if I hold down the repeat key and select a character, the right codebars are being selected. I punched a number of characters onto tape to verify this and they seem to be punching OK. This suggests to me that this isn't an electrical problem since whatever code the keyboard is sending is eventually being sensed correctly. ii) In addition to i) above, even if I do get all the codebars moving as required, the wrong characters are being printed. I removed the carriage, cleaned and oiled it and replaced it but this hasn't helped. Any suggestions ? Are there any other diagnostic procedures I can apply to figure out what's happening here ? Right now the unit is not interfaced to anything so any testing needs to be standalone. Thanks, Dave __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos http://launch.yahoo.com/u2

23 years, 7 months

2
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Epson HX-20 repair details - more info

by M.Clemence＠exeter.ac.uk

> > >Here, basically, is how the power switch should turn on the PSU. > >Turning on the power switch on the keyboard assembly brings pin 4 of IC >5D low. Thus pin 6 goes high (check both of these). >Pin 6 of IC 5D is connected to pin 9 of the same chip. Pin 10 (other >input of that gate) should also be high -- it comes from IC2B in the >power supply area, and shuts the machine down if the battery is too low >(I think). >So pin 8 of IC5D goes low. This is connected to pin 4 of IC5F. The >output, pin 4, of this gate therefore goes high. This brings pin 2 of >IC7E high, which makes pin 15 low, turning on Q8. > >I would now check all the pins I've mentioned. Something must be wrong in >that area. > > > >>> >>> As an aside, for those who maybe wondering why I'm bothering - I work at >> >> > >That question never occurred to me. The HX20 is a computer, so of course >it should be repaired. > > > >>> If any one would be willing to supply photocopies of the relevant bits >>> of the manual (schematic in >>> particular) I would of course pay towards copying/postage/time. >> >> > >I will see what I can do... > Thanks for the above information - I have only just had chance to act on it so here goes. If I am reading the board correctly IC5D is a 4000 CMOS 2x3 input nor and a not gate. Checking round the pins, the inputs and outputs are logically consistent but pin 4 does not go low when the switch is turned on. Suggesting that some thing is wrong else where on the keyboard board perhaps. ( Also if it is a 4000, then pin 9 and 10 are on separate gates which doesn't agree with the above - maybe you could confirm that it is a 4000 ) However, the power supply voltage to the CMOS chips is very low - bewteen 2.9 and 3.2 depending upon how long it has been plugged in which is right at the low end of the operating range. Unless I am mistaken the supply for a whole set of chips (presumably those that run all the time even when the machine is "off") is provided by Q10. If this is so, Q10 has 4.9V on the C (presumably the main supply) and 3.3 V on the base but only 2.9 V on the emitter which seems to be the chip supply. Is this inference correct and if so are the voltages right ? Again, thanks for all your help, Matthew Clemence

23 years, 7 months

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calculators, was: Re: Best Find of the Weekend!

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

Hi At the time I bought it, I believe I checked on this and to break the rule, the numbers did correspond on many of the relabeled Sharp calculators. I'll have to admit, I never saw the matching Sharp for this calculator but I had seen others that RS sold and the only difference was the EC was changed from EL. The numbers were the same. Dwight >From: "Eric Smith" <eric(a)brouhaha.com> > >Dwight wrote: >> It is a radio shack model EC-4024 which I assume >> is a relabeled Sharp EL-4024. I've been watching and >> there just isn't anything like this in the stores. > >Typically Radio Shack model numbers do NOT correspond to the >original manufacturer model numbers. At the moment, I can't >think of any I've seen that actually did correspond, but >perhaps there were some. > > > > >

23 years, 7 months

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calculators, was: Re: Best Find of the Weekend!

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Dan Veeneman" <dan(a)ekoan.com> > >At 08:31 PM 11/9/02 +0100, you wrote: >>My own favorite (otehr than my HP-16 ;-) is a CASIO CM-100 "computer math >>calc". > >I too prefer the HP-16C, but the CM-100 is a nice design. I have a photo >of one >up on my Casio calculator page, http://www.decodesystems.com/casiocalcs.html > >A very similar discussion of hex-capable calculators occurred recently on >Slashdot, along with a link to my page. As is to be expected, ClassicCmpers >covered the same ground much more quickly. :-) > >>The nice thing is they have no batteries, just a "solar panel" and do not >>seem to need much light to function properly. > >The CM-100 functions very well in surprisingly low light. However, when I >need to >do hex conversions (which I did for a while in developing code for a >Motorola OnCore >GPS chipset), I prefer the HP-16C. > > Hi I have a pocket calculator that I would love to replace with a newer one ( because this one is dying ). It is a mix of solar/battery or one can use it in low light as well. I've replaced the battery twice since I've owned it. It doe very convenient Dec/Hex/Binary/Octal conversions as well. It doesn't seem that these types are being made anymore. It is a radio shack model EC-4024 which I assume is a relabeled Sharp EL-4024. I've been watching and there just isn't anything like this in the stores. Dwight

23 years, 7 months

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Longevity of CD-R (was RE: Preserving Newspaper.)

by cb＠mythtech.net

>Trying to use CD-RW is asking for trouble. They have a lower contrast >ratio than CD-R, so even DVD players that can handle CD-R may not be >able to handle CD-RW. You would think, but from what I found when researching why mine couldn't play CD-Rs, it is actually VERY common for a DVD Player to fail to play CD-Rs, but plays a CD-RW just fine. So common, that apparently, it is the norm for a DVD Player that can play home brew VCD's will only work with CD-RW, unless is specifically mentions that it works with CD-R. At least this was true a few years ago when I was looking for info. And beyond research, in my informal polling of friends and their DVD players (mix of old and new models)... I found the fact holds true. Out of about a dozen DVD players I have ready access to (ie: I can go to someone's house, and try a disc). One could not play any kind of VCD. Of those that could, I think there were 3 that only played commercial stamped VCDs, the rest could play home brew VCDs. In all cases where they could play home brew VCDs, all could play CD-RW, and 2 could play CD-Rs. The two that could play CD-Rs both specifically mentioned that they handled CD-R media. One was a multi-format, multi-region unit, and the other was a brand new one that even did MP3 audio CDs (which was kind of cool). And interestingly with one player, it had problems playing discs created by my computer, but no problems with one created with my VCD burner (it could play either, but the computer made one wasn't recognized every time... sometimes you had to eject the disc, and reinsert it a few times before the DVD player would accept the disc). -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

23 years, 7 months

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Signetics 2650

by drido＠optushome.com.au

>On Sat, 9 Nov 2002, Dr. Ido wrote: > >> Several old games systems used the 2650 and it's related display chips 2636 >> and 2637: >> >> The Emerson Arcadia 2001 (and it's many clones by Sheen, Hanimex and others) >> The Radofin 1292/1392 (and it's many clones by Fountain, Grandstand, >> Hanimex and others) >> >> If you just need some 2650 CPUs you could remove them from these consoles. > >Except that those consoles are not like the Atari 2600, i.e. they are >scarce. Arcadia 2001 systems go for at least $50 on eBay. I've seen the genuine Arcadia 2001 get high prices, but clones can be cheaper. Sometimes they are not listed as Arcadia 2001, the carts are not interchangable and they look totally different. The radofin consoles don't seem to attract the same interest, one I sold went for around AU$40 and that was with a stack of boxed games.

23 years, 7 months

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DECmate & DECstation video port pinouts?

by drido＠optushome.com.au

At 07:17 PM 11/8/02 EST, you wrote: >On Sat, 09 Nov 2002 (downunder time); you posted to classiccmp: > >> I've picked up a DECmate III and a DECstation 3100 that I'd like to get >> running, but I don't have monitors for either. > >> Does anybody have the pinouts for the video ports so I can make up some >> adapters? > >I can help with the DECstation 3100. I am going to paste several files to >the end of this and that should provide you with some info to get started. > >I noticed the 'optus' in your email address. Out of curiosity, do you work >for Optus or is that just your ISP? I ask as I made two trips to Australia >to conduct training classes at Optus. It so happens they were using DEC >equipment for what I was dealing with. > >Hope this helps, Thanks, should have at least one monitor here that will handle once I make up a cable. Optus is only my ISP, I don't work for them. I guess they could use some more training though, with what they consider "service" at times.

23 years, 7 months

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DECmate & DECstation video port pinouts?

by drido＠optushome.com.au

I've picked up a DECmate III and a DECstation 3100 that I'd like to get running, but I don't have monitors for either. Does anybody have the pinouts for the video ports so I can make up some adapters?

23 years, 7 months

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Longevity of CD-R (was RE: Preserving Newspaper.)

by cb＠mythtech.net

>I've used both brands without any problem for Data, Music, and VCD. >Although when using them for VCD I can't get either brand to play in our >good JVC progressive scan DVD player :^( This may be a DVD Player issue. I'm assuming that your DVD Player plays Video-CD's in the first place. If so, try using a CD-RW disc (if your burner supports them). I have a Toshiba DVD Player that plays commercial VCD's, or any that I make as long as I use a CD-RW disc. This is apparently not uncommon. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

23 years, 7 months

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FW: Huge lot of DEC parts on E-pay

by Antonio.Carlini＠riverstonenet.com

The auction now has a part list attached (I've not followed this thread too closely, so sorry if it's been mentioned before). >BTW if anyone knows of a decent NN-NNNNN-NN style >part number look up utility or website, let me know. I picked a few of the larger quantity part numbers and threw them into google. The first hit was a large list (or set of lists) of DEC part numbers. All the ones I looked at (1000+ off items) were lamps or cables. The number of actual boards may not be that much. It's possible that some of the part numbers were complete systems or large subassemblies, but I must admit my brief scan through left me somewhat unimpressed (given the $3500 reserve!) But don't let me put anyone off ... there are plenty of parts to check out! Antonio

23 years, 7 months

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