>From: "Adrian Vickers" <avickers(a)solutionengineers.com>
---snip---
>
>>This is like a
>>sealed bid auction because the auction ends at a specified time and the
>>winners will be those that place last second bids (i.e. not seen by
>>others).
>
>Absolute bullshit. A sealed bid auction does not allow you to bid more than
>once, nor do you know if your bid has been exceeded. Nor is there any
>advantage/disadvantage in bidding early or late, as no-one knows what the
>bids are until the auction finishes.
Hi
After all the items I've bid on, I'd bid the same amount on
a sealed bid as I'd snipe with. I've learned to look at an
item and determine what I'll bid. I've learned to not change
that amount, regardless of how the auction goes. Why should
one let emotion rule their bid? If the item goes above my amount,
I only watch the auction for interest. I've learned to never
reassess my bid.
I've found that after losing many bids, I'd rather lose
to a sniped bid than to someone that pennies me up in open
bidding. I realized that that person either doesn't know
what he wants to pay or he may even be a shill bidder.
It is the wrong place for either.
Dwight
While it is true that the ultimate numbers of an item are fixed, in this
situation, it can be argued that the supply is not constant, since many the
closeted items would likely have gone out in the Spring Cleaning trash. As
long as there are only 3 of X for sale, then the demand will be high. The
higher demand saves and brings out more items, the supply goes up, and the
price (eventually, depending in part on the rate at which new supply
appears) will go down.
-----Original Message-----
From: steve [mailto:gkicomputers@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 11:13 AM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: Getting long; Was Re: eBay being sued over patent
infringement
<snip>
People are digging
stuff out of their closets that would of never been
available for sale before, or available to only a very
limited number of people.
Many collectible items that were considered very rare
before ebay, are now just considered common place, and
prices have dropped greatly even though the actual
supply has been constant.
<snip>
Hello Mike,
> But with sniping, people often bid a little higher just to protect their
bid.
That might be the case some of the time, but with extensions, a bidder
has the opportunity to re-evaluate their decision, and go higher if they
want to. With the snipe, you calculate what you think might do it, enter
the bid, and then see how it ends ( for the seasoned bidder anyway ).
> "I guess I got stuck. I was just trying to protect my bid."
That "protecting the bid" strategy can backfire on the bidder just as you
saw.
> The people that whine the most about sniping, NEVER win auctions
I hope you don't interpret my discussion as whining about sniping. I
always snipe and usually win whenever I really want to.
> The people that whine the most about sniping, NEVER win auctions, ...
> they just NEVER bid high enough and would lose anyway.
You're generally right. Most buyers that might whine about sniping are just
expressing their disappointment that they couldn't buy the item as
inexpensively
as they had wished to. But from the sellers perspective, the exact ending time
and the sniping would sometimes prevent their from being able to reach their
best potential selling price.
At 08:12 AM 4/24/03 -0700, you wrote:
> > > a much preferred model for me. It is where the sale is extended by a
> > minute or two
> > > when each bid comes in at the end of the auction.
> >
>
>This hurts the seller and should make no difference to the bidder.
>
>NO ONE should ever bid more than they are willing to pay. But with
>sniping, people often bid a little higher just to protect their bid. If
>there is an extention bids will still not rise higher than anyone is
>willing to bid.
>
>I have seen auctions go for $400 on items that normally wouldn't sell for
>$300. One bidder contacted me because two people bid that $400 and he
>said, "I guess I got stuck. I was just trying to protect my bid." He
>paid the auction but clearly bid more than he ever expected or wanted to
>pay.
>
>The people that whine the most about sniping, NEVER win auctions, unless
>they are the first to see a "low" buy-it-now, on popular items. They just
>NEVER bid high enough and would lose anyway.
Starting it up is a bit of a problem, as I just have the system box -- no
monitor or software, and I shipped the RAM expansion card to TeoZ.
-----Original Message-----
From: Cameron Kaiser [mailto:spectre@floodgap.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 9:26 AM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: Two new Apple toys
> Not knowing much about Apples, how can I tell which ROM is on a IIgs
> motherboard? I have one that I pulled from the trash, and don't need.
I don't know the numbers. It's easiest to fire it up and see what it says
on the bootup banner (a ROM 00 says nothing, ROM 01 and 03 both announce
themselves).
--
----------------------------- personal page: http://www.armory.com/~spectre/
--
Cameron Kaiser, Point Loma Nazarene University *
ckaiser(a)stockholm.ptloma.edu
-- Two wrongs don't make a right, but they do make a great TV movie.
----------
>Starting it up is a bit of a problem, as I just have the system box -- no
>monitor or software, and I shipped the RAM expansion card to TeoZ.
You should still be able to boot it.
There is a composite RCA output on the back. That will plug into anything
that takes composite video (TV, VCR, game/tv adaptor box, whatever).
It also uses a standard PC power cord.
Plug those two things in, flip the switch, and you should get to the BIOS
boot screen that will tell you the rom version. You won't get much
further without software, drives, keyboard and anything else you might
want to use... but at least you should get as far as knowing the ROM
version.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Not knowing much about Apples, how can I tell which ROM is on a IIgs
motherboard? I have one that I pulled from the trash, and don't need.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Zane H. Healy [mailto:healyzh@aracnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 5:18 PM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: Two new Apple toys
> > These would also work in a IIgs wouldn't they?
>
> Probably, but you don't need one for a ROM 03 IIgs -- they have built-in
> boot-over-LocalTalk support.
I wish I had a ROM 03 IIgs, but then I also wish I had room to have my IIe
and IIgs setup. Unfortunatly all my Apple II stuff is in storage. :^(
Zane
Over the weekend I dissected two commercial alarm panels people had saved
for me. While I was grateful for the thought, I didn't give my donors much
credit for being discriminating. Boy was I wrong.
When I opened the first panel, the board inside had a 6805 sitting smack in
the middle of it. It also yielded a 2716, a 2764, a 6821, and a pair of
6116 static RAMs, along with numerous other Motorola-branded support chips
and passives. I thought that was a pretty cool find, especially considering
my short-sighted view of its potential.
Panel #2, however, seems to have been the real gem. The large board within
didn't look that interesting, just the usual myriad passives, and the panel
was clearly very old (looked 20 years or more). It had a daughter board
about six inches square and fully enclosed in shielding, hiding its
contents. I removed the board, stripped it of its shielding, and found...
an RCA CDP1806, two 1852s, an RCA-branded 6116, and three other support
chips. The label on the 27128 EPROM on the board says "(C) 1984".
Simple stuff, but I was jazzed. Classic computers are
everywhere... --Patrick
Dear List,
What is the concensus on disposal of 286 and 386sx
hardware -- should they be consigned to the bin, or
are there any folks out there collecting them? (or
needing spares?).
One is a Schneider 286 Tower PC (10Mhz), and the other
is a Philips P3345 (16Mhz).
Personally, I do not view either as being particularly
noteworth (other than, perhaps, for sentimental
reasons) .. but seems such a shame to turn them into
landfill :-)
Best regards,
Roger
For a better Internet experience
http://www.yahoo.co.uk/btoffer
Hi,
I was looking at a vendor site and it looks like they are offering an
DEC 11/750 for $158.76. It's not quite clear, but since I don't have
room for one I cannot simply order it. If you want it for the price,
you can go on their web site to just order it and then call and ask
them that you want to pick it up, that way you can find out what
really they offer here and if it's not a real 11/750 system you can
jump off (but if it is, you have a pretty good price.)
regards,
-Gunther
New toys:
Apple II Mouse Interface (I have one somewhere in a box that I haven't
seen in years, so it was faster to buy another one ;-)
Apple II Network Workstation Card (2). I've done some Googling, and it
appears that I may not be able to use these in any Apple II I currently
have (they seem to require an enhanced IIe). Ultimately, I'd like to
lay hands on the Mac server software (3.x?) that will let me boot an
Apple II over Localtalk and treat the Mac as a remote disk drive.
-ethan
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
Hi All,
Digging in the closet again. I have a collection of magazines and
books for sale. Please write to me off list about the following.
Paypal , money order, etc accepted. If your in michigan you can pick
up. Naturally it will be cost plus shipping (actual).
Kilobaud microcomputing ($1.00 per issue or will trade for issues
#1-#27 of Kilobaud)
July 1979 (#31)
Sept 1979 (#33)
Jan 1980 - March 1980 (#37-#39)
June 1980 - Sept 1980 (#42- #45)
Nov 1980 (#47)
Okay how about the following books at $2.00 each
How to build your own working robot pet - Dacosta 1979 (excellent book
8085 based)
Engineering Electromagnetics - Hayt 1981
Communication Systems - An introduction to Signals and Noise in
Electrical Communication- Carlson 1986
Electronic Circuit Analysis & Design - Hayt 1984
Computer Oriented Circuit Design - Kuo 1969
Computer-aided integrated circuit design - Herskowitz 1968
How about something completely different. Does anyone have
documentation for the following:
(all S-100 boards)
SD Systems SBC-200
SD Systems Expandoram III
Solid State Music ADL-1
SD Systems Versafloppy II
Thanks again.
Rob
ps. Still no luck on the Teletype Model 32 documentation. I started
going through the model 33 stuff. It's close BUT still not it. I think
as I work on this project I'm going to take pictures and document what
I do. I'll post it on my web site to help other Model 32 users.
Robert Borsuk - rborsuk(a)colourfull.com
President
Colourfull Creations
http://www.colourfull.com
Well today's been interesting.
There was snow on the ground this morning.
At a Lotusshpere today I won a pair of tickets to the hockey game this Friday.
And I just returned with an Arix 800, (quite large, hard drives have been
pulled but the tape drive and cards are there), a Wyse 60 terminal, a box of
unisys docs for u5000, a tape with PDN-5000, and windows 286 in the plastic
wrap, a scanner new in box, and two clones that are missing the drives but
still have the cpu's and ram.
I was also offered a very old telephone switchboard this past weekend.
> Also on a related note, where the heck can you find a scsi card for a IIgs
> that doesnt cost $50+?
You might try dropping these folks a line, and see if they still have any.
http://members.aol.com/webescsi/scsi/cie.html
It's been a few years since I got one from them, but I only payed $30 for
one, IIRC.
Zane
When I got several Kaypro II etc. machines several years ago at the
thrift store, I also found a bunch of related floppy disks. Several of
them are apparently copies of disks from Micro Cornucopia at Bend,
Oregon (a mid 80s magazine?). They appear to have lots of useful
software, I think public domain...assemblers, utilities, etc.
I finally got round to getting 22disk running on an XT, and I've been
reading these old floppies, and copying the contents to the hard drive
on my main computer. No read errors yet, and I've done a dozen!
amazing....
Is there any interest in this stuff, such as on a CP/M archive server
somewhere? I should be able to zip it up and email or ftp it somewhere.
I don't have room on my home page (url below).
Here's a sample of what's in them, from part of the .doc file for one of
the disks:
=============================================
KAYPRO USER'S DISK #10-------Assembly Language Disk
Micro Cornucopia
PO BOX 223
Bend OR 97709
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
CROWECPM.COM
CROWECPM.DOC
CROWECPM.Z80
This program is for all of you that wanted a Z80 assembler without spending
hundreds of dollars for it. We modified the CROWE assembler so that it
would work under any CP/M system. CROWECPM accepts standard Zilog mnemonics
and creates a .HEX and .PRN files. The .HEX file is in Intel format and can
be used to create a .COM file with the CP/M LOAD.COM. A symbol table is
listed at the end of the .PRN file. It is a good assembler and the source
code is included if any one would like to make it even better.
See CROWECPM.DOC for information on using the CROWECPM assembler.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
LASM.COM
LASM.DOC
This is another assembler. It is a rewrite of the standard CP/M ASM
assembler. The difference is that this version can link assembly language
programs together at assembly time. This version also runs faster the
ASM.COM. This could be a the begininning of a linker for our Small C+.
See LASM.DOC for details.
=======================================================
Neat stuff, obviously.
--
Jim
Visit the Selectric Typewriter Museum!
http://www.mindspring.com/~jforbes2
> I'm glad you can still get it from the thrifts for under $3, used not new
> like this one.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3602578486
You know, I really should put my copy up on eBay, the shrinkwrap and box
aren't as perfect as that, but I could sure use the cash for some software
upgrades for my Mac!
Zane
>Magnavox didn't test market in that way, since there was no market to test
>in. The Odyssey, being the first video game console, was sold alongside
>every other Magnavox product just like any other television accessory
>(which is what it was considered by many at the time, and why many people
>wound up mistakingly thinking it would only work on Magnavox television
>sets).
Makes sense, but that doesn't preclude my theory from being correct. (see
below)
>My guess is your parent's could have gotten a used model, or you just
>don't remember everything that actually came with it because you were so
>young and it was so long ago.
Nope, it might very well have been a test product. My father owns a
market research company, and in the past Magnavox has been one of our
clients. There is a good chance that it was obtained directly from
Magnavox for the purpose of a focus group to discuss it and get opinions
on it. Knowing that people thought it was only for Magnavox TVs just
makes me believe this even more, as it would have been ripe for a focus
group to try to figure out how to alter public perception.
I also have 2 (3?) Atari 2600's that were never purchased, but instead
left behind after studies and focus groups were done with them. I was
supposed to have a Coleco Adam from the same way, but Coleco opted to
take it back (which just made me want my friend's even more, which he
shipped off to the Philipeans after telling me I could have it... so I
think I am destined to never own an Adam). I tried to get a TurboExpress
(the Turbo Graphix 16 portable unit). But at the time that I was playing
with one when we were doing groups on them, it was one of 3 in the US
>from Japan (the other two of them NEC execs were busy playing with in the
same room)
I had more toys growing up than I new what to do with... all because they
would be left behind after studies, a practice that most companies seem
to have stopped. Unfortantly, I didn't know the gold mine I was sitting
on, so many of the items were broken and/or disposed of (much like how I
cry when I see what Star Wars action figures go for today, and I think
about how many I blew up with firecrackers in my back yard).
Of course, NONE of this means that is how I got my Odessey for sure. It
is just my suspicion based on what my parents were willing to buy. If it
was remotely interesting or expensive, they wouldn't buy it. So all the
best toys came from study leftovers. Since I remember the Odessey as
being fun, and I'm sure it wasn't cheap, I have to assume we did a job on
it and Magnavox left it behind.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
I saw it there the last 2 or 3 times I went.
(I don't work for Weird stuff, but I shop there a lot!)
I had wanted one of these until I owned a machine with a floppy disk....
>I'm curious if there's a repository of ancient Radio Shack kit
>manuals out there - I did not get a manual for the 10-in-1
>(cat no. 28-225), but at least I got its box (covered in packing
>tape, grrr.)
Did you check Radio Shack's web site? They have hundreds of their manuals
online in PDF format, many going back quite a long time.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
.. doesn't have the same ring as 'Anarchy in the UK', but never mind :)
I'm new to the group, but the FAQ says it's OK to advertise a bit so here
goes:
Emigration means getting rid of stuff I can't afford to take, and this
includes a Sharp PC-7100. Includes cables butno documentation. Anyone who'd
like it contact me at oldcmp(a)gurucomms.co.uk
regards
Dave
One of my dealer contacts is looking for MV 3100 Model 38s. They are offering
to pay cash. Reply to them, not me, please. This is their second request.
I think these things are over 10 years old.
Paxton
Astoria, OR
WE NEED TO BUY:
MICROVAX 3100 MODEL 38
OR
SYSTEM DV-31JCC-XX (46-ZMC-A9)
SYSTEM BOX BA42B
LICENSE QL-005AP-62
CPU KA58 (54-24695-02)
CALL US TODAY !!!
WE HAVE ORDERS - - WILL PAY TOP $
Call, fax or E-mail us today!
246 Commerce Drive, Rochester, NY 14623
www.computerclearinghouse.com
Call Now: (585) 334-0550 Fax: (585) 334-2244
E-mail: hardware(a)computerclearinghouse.com
> --- "Zane H. Healy" <healyzh(a)aracnet.com> wrote:
> > Would you believe I actually got a IIgs with one of these in it, and the
> > mouse?
>
> The IIgs has ADB ports, yes? Why would you want an old mouse card
> then?
I have a theory about this. Was the ADB mouse an additional purchase? My
guess is that whoever put it in there had the card and mouse from an old
system and rather than spending the money on an ADB mouse, put it into the
IIgs. Either that or they had software which required it.
Zane
Check for the 33 stuff on:
http://www.pdp8.net/pdp8cgi/query_docs/query.pl?Search=teletype&stype=Parti…
rd&fields=id%2Ctitle%2Cdate&debug=0&table=pdp8docs&orderby=sort%2Ctitle
I'm sure you'll have to paste it back together.
Dwight
>To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
>
>> Hi All,
>> I received a beautiful Teletype model 32 in today. Unfortunately I
>> wish it ran as good as it looks. It only prints one character no
>> matter what key you press and it won't return from the right hand side.
>> Does anyone have the Technical manual for this beast or know where I
>> can get it from?
>
>The Model 32 is the 5-level (baudot) version of the Model 33. I believe
>that many of the mechanisms are similar, and that the Model 33 manuals
>(which are on the web somewhere I think) might be of some use. In fact at
>least one of my Model 33 manuals (maybe the parts catalogue) covers the
>Model 32 as well.
>
>-tony
Thanks to Wayne Smith's timely docs for the Heath Z-89-37 soft-sectored
floppy controller, after another person who shall for the moment remain
nameless has failed to fulfill his (repeated) promise of spare parts and
docs paid for seven months ago now, but I digress... I think I'm in the home
stretch of getting the board installed and working. But...
The installation instructions for the controller state that CPU board ICs
U557 and U558 are to be removed, and a DIP header/ribbon cable from the
controller board is to be connected into the now empty U557, and a "20 pin
plug with jumper" are to be installed at U558.
However, I do not _have_ the 20-pin plug with jumper that replaces the
74LS240 removed at U558, and the connection of a jumper in this socket is
not immediately evident to me from studying the schematics.
Can someone with an H/Z-90 and the soft-sectored controller please take a
look and tell me what pins in the 20-pin plug at U558 are jumpered?
Thanks!
Patrick
Hi
As long as the load is not that great, one can whack
out the center with a drill and then notch it with a file.
The drill needs to be larger than the OD of the inner splins.
You then fill the voids with a mixture of epoxie and
fiber glass wool. Using something like JB Weld will
make the material as hard as most plastics. To keep
things aligned while the epoxie is setting, make a
jig to hold things by drilling some concentric holes
in layers of plywood that are bolted together, for alignment.
You need to put a wax surface on the plywood where
the epoxie will be so it doesn't stick.
It isn't real clean looking but should be functional.
Dwight
>From: "Mail List" <mail.list(a)analog-and-digital-solutions.com>
>
>Hello Ethan,
>
>Internal splines, which is basically what that extrusion die would be are
>much harder to do than cutting gear teeth on the OD of a gear blank.
>The internal splines would have to be done on a slotter ( or possibly
>a shaper with the right set up, i.e. some cutting machine with a linear
>reciprocating cutting motion ) or cut into the die with EDM or wire
>EDM processes. Much more difficult, and therefore more expensive
>manufacturing processes. Original gears probably were shot in a
>plastic injection mold, but the mold making is very expensive too, and
>not something to do for very small production runs. Too bad you couldn't
>find someone with a broach, because broaching internal splines might
>not be as expensive a manufacturing process as long as you found
>someone with the broach already made up. To have a tool and die maker
>have to make a broach would also be expensive. Also extrusion die blank
>material would have too not be too hard to broach. But then you have to
>have the extrusion process set up and run. All in all, if you can't find them
>already made up, milling the teeth into blanks or slotting on a lathe are
>probably going to be your only really feasible options.
>
>Best Regards
>
>
>
>
>At 08:13 AM 4/22/03 -0700, you wrote:
>>Having worked out the pitch of the broken drive gears (120), and
>>having looked on a couple of web sites _and_ contacted someone
>>at Boston Gear, it's looking grim.
>>
>>According to the e-mail I got back, Boston Gear doesn't carry anything
>>finer than a pitch of 64. When I asked who did carry such gears, the
>>answer was: "I am not familiar with any company that makes miniature
>>gearing." :-(
>>
>>My goal all along has been to find a company that has a bag of these
>>on the shelf. I had no idea it was such an unusual item. I don't
>>relish the idea of fabrication, but maybe that's what we're facing.
>>
>>Rather than machining each gear, I wonder how hard it would be to
>>make an extrusion die to pump out a long gear and cut it into 5/32"
>>slices?
>>
>>-ethan
>>The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
>>http://search.yahoo.com
Having worked out the pitch of the broken drive gears (120), and
having looked on a couple of web sites _and_ contacted someone
at Boston Gear, it's looking grim.
According to the e-mail I got back, Boston Gear doesn't carry anything
finer than a pitch of 64. When I asked who did carry such gears, the
answer was: "I am not familiar with any company that makes miniature
gearing." :-(
My goal all along has been to find a company that has a bag of these
on the shelf. I had no idea it was such an unusual item. I don't
relish the idea of fabrication, but maybe that's what we're facing.
Rather than machining each gear, I wonder how hard it would be to
make an extrusion die to pump out a long gear and cut it into 5/32"
slices?
-ethan
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
>From: "Peter C. Wallace" <pcw(a)mesanet.com>
>
>On Tue, 22 Apr 2003, Ethan Dicks wrote:
>
>> --- "Dwight K. Elvey" <dwightk.elvey(a)amd.com> wrote:
>> > Hi
>> > As long as the load is not that great, one can whack
>> > out the center with a drill and then notch it with a file.
>> > The drill needs to be larger than the OD of the inner splins.
>> > You then fill the voids with a mixture of epoxie and
>> > fiber glass wool...
>>
>> That sounds interesting for a large enough gear, but in this case,
>> it's about 1/8" in diameter and 5/32" long with a bore of 1/20".
>>
>> I don't think I'll be trying to whack and/or notch a chunk of
>> plastic that's smaller than a tic-tac.
>
>How about making a silicone mold from an original gear and making copies out
>of some kind of plastic or epoxy resin?
>
>>
>> -ethan
>> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
>> http://search.yahoo.com
>>
>
>Peter Wallace
>
Like minds!
Dwight
>To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
>
>On Tue, 22 Apr 2003, Ethan Dicks wrote:
>
>> That sounds interesting for a large enough gear, but in this case, it's
>> about 1/8" in diameter and 5/32" long with a bore of 1/20".
>>
>> I don't think I'll be trying to whack and/or notch a chunk of plastic
>> that's smaller than a tic-tac.
>
>What type of plastic were these gears made from? I was thinking about
>pulling out one of my plotters, but I don't exactly remember where I put
>it right now ;P
>
>If they are made of nylon, I'm surprised that they split. I really expect
>to find that they were made of some kind of ABS or ABS blended plastic
>that didn't handle the press-fit pressure very well.
>
>Has anyone contacted Alps to see if maybe they might know where the gears
>were made originally? It's certainly possible a set of molds might still
>be sitting around somewhere...
>
>-Toth
>
Hi
I've seen this same kind of failure in a small Automatic Kodak
camera.
One other thought would be to make a mold with a good
gear and use that to make new gears using something like
JB Weld ( I do like this stuff ). You'd mold the gear on
the shaft so that there would be no tendency to split the
gear from pressing it together.
The gear in the camera looked like it was a nylon gear and
not the typical plastic. I didn't make a check on it though.
Dwight
> > These would also work in a IIgs wouldn't they?
>
> Probably, but you don't need one for a ROM 03 IIgs -- they have built-in
> boot-over-LocalTalk support.
I wish I had a ROM 03 IIgs, but then I also wish I had room to have my IIe
and IIgs setup. Unfortunatly all my Apple II stuff is in storage. :^(
Zane
Hello,
I want to give some follow up on my problem interfacing a 9134A HDD to my HP
85.
Nothing seemed to work and I was about to toss it when I decided to follow
the advice of Alex Knight and vp**.
Alex suggested removing the HDD and trying to initialize each one of the 4
logical drives with the HDD on it's side, "to loosen things up a bit".
I took the top off, and hey, does HP use the biggest darn capacitors you
have ever seen or what? There are two side by side capacitors in there that
look like sticks of dynamite.
Mindful of these I had the first screw holding the drive out when I noticed
under a big dust ball that the ribbon cable connection from the HDD to the
PCB was loose. I pushed it back on and to my delight everything now works
fine! After a little detailing she looks and works great.
Thanks again for your help.
>I am having trouble interfacing an HP 9134 HDD to my HP 85. I have
connected
>other drives without difficulty such as the 9121D so I believe the computer
>is set up properly.
>I recently picked up a 9134A HD. It apparently emulates a 9895A 8" flexible
>drive and 3 slaves each with 1.15MB capacity.
>I set the HP-IB address to zero on the HD and typed MASS STORAGE is
":D700".
>I then typed CAT and Initialize and keep getting a "Timeout". Also if I
turn
>the 85 on with the HD connected and running and type CAT the HD does not
>respond as my 9121 would without typing a mass storage is command.
>Can I assume the drive is bad or am I using the wrong syntax. The drive
>spins up nicely, and the light comes on but I get that error message and
the
>disk access light does not come on.
>I hate to toss this drive into the dumpster if it is functional.
>Thank you for your thoughts.
<Bob H
I recently got a KIM-1 Rev. A (on eBay) and have a question about it. This
particular model, the Revision A, doesn't say Commodore, and has a low (<
3000) serial number on it. What it DOES have, is a PIN 10 of U26 is cut in
half, and a twisted pair of wires are attached 1) at the chip, and 2) at the
board. The end of the wires not connected to U26 is not connected to anything
other than each other.
The schematic showing this component is in the KIM-1 User Manual, section 3.7
Is this part of a known mod for the KIM-1? It looks to me like it might have
been used with a switch on the free end to select half duplex (open) and full
duplex (closed) for the TTY interface.
Your suggestions and comments are solicited.
Regards,
Stuart Johnson
Hi Joe and Paxton?,
Joe,
I'm using device level calls to the NI GPIB board via the GPIB-32.DLL so any
NI card that uses this driver should work - that includes NI ISA based cards
(TNT-GPIB etc.), PCI cards (PCI-GPIB - the one that I'm using) and probably
the PCMCIA-GPIB as well.
For the record, my development machine is XP based though any Win32
operating system should be OK.
I'm going to try to tidy the code up a little - if people think that the
idea of making an online catalog of files is a good one then I have no
problem with making this application available to help making it.
Paxton,
Apologies if Paxton is where you live and not your name - I live in the UK
so my knowledge of US place names is a little lacking!
My development machine has two GPIB cards in it both are PCI based - one is
an NI PCI-GPIB card, the other an HP 82350 card.
The NI configuration utility only displays the NI card that is installed in
the machine however the HP utility shows both cards.
It may be that the HP card can be controlled using the NI software but I
haven't tried it yet - I'll have a play this evening.
If the HP PCI based card can be recognised then it is possible that an HP
ISA card would be OK. If not then it should be OK to use an NI ISA based
GPIB card (around $20 on e-bay). I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers
Peter Brown
_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch with absent friends - get MSN Messenger
http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger
>I found this:
>
> http://support.radioshack.com/support_games/3183.htm
>
>... but that is dozens, not hundreds. I could not find anything on
>their website for the "10-in-1" kit (but I could find "30-in-1" and
>"200-in-1").
>
>Am I looking in the wrong place?
You're looking in the right place... looks like they just don't have that
one.
And I didn't mean hundreds in that catagory, I meant hundreds of manuals
in total. Unless they have removed a bunch recently.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
I have some kind of 72 pin SIMM card here. I am pretty sure I pulled it
>from a dying Zenith 386 before the PC was scrapped.
The only label on it says JABIL APE 240-7929-20
I think it might be some kind of BIOS card, or Cache card. Silk screened
between two chips says 32K Cache 85-3749-01. I don't know if that refers
to the card, or just the two chips it is printed between. None of the
other chips on the card have screened labels of value.
If anyone wants it, send me your address, I'll stick it in a padded
envelope and mail it out to you.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Allied Devices
(http://www.allieddevices.com/web2000/documents/pinhubgears.80.120.html)
lists 120 pitch gears.
Making a die (internal cuts) is probably harder than machining individual
gears.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ethan Dicks [mailto:erd_6502@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 10:13 AM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Coming up dry for Alps/Radio Shack/Atari/Commodore plotter
gears
Having worked out the pitch of the broken drive gears (120), and
having looked on a couple of web sites _and_ contacted someone
at Boston Gear, it's looking grim.
According to the e-mail I got back, Boston Gear doesn't carry anything
finer than a pitch of 64. When I asked who did carry such gears, the
answer was: "I am not familiar with any company that makes miniature
gearing." :-(
My goal all along has been to find a company that has a bag of these
on the shelf. I had no idea it was such an unusual item. I don't
relish the idea of fabrication, but maybe that's what we're facing.
Rather than machining each gear, I wonder how hard it would be to
make an extrusion die to pump out a long gear and cut it into 5/32"
slices?
-ethan
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
From: Paul Berger <sanepsycho(a)globaldialog.com>
Date: 04/20/2003 7:41 PM
> You fixing an OSI system?
>
> Paul
No, it's a LarKen 1000 floppy disk drive controller for the ZX81/TS1000.
On the off chance that *anyone* on this list has a schematic for this critter --
I'd sure appreciate it!
Later --
Glen
0/0
Ditto;
I have several drives and would like to interrogate them. I also just picked
up a HP ISA HPIB card at Goodwill (inside a Compaq Deskpro XE 466).
It would help. Thanks a lot for developing the concept and prelim SW.
Paxton
Astoria, OR
I was finally able to devote some time to my Apple CP/M issues and figured
it out.
It turns out that the version of MS CP/M that I'm using has got the device
identifiers correct, even though Steve Hirsch warned that they were
reversed in Microsoft's implementation. I apparently have a version where
it is fixed.
I first connected up my laptop to the Super Serial Card in slot #2 and
then tried to PIP RDR:=B:file. I got a message to the effect that the
RDR: device cannot be written to. Then I tried to get slick and use STAT
to change the RDR: device to what PUN: was pointed to. That didn't work.
Then I decided to just try PIPing to the PUN: device and it took, but I
didn't see anything across the serial port.
A little more digging and reading and I verified that, as Steve said, the
Apple ][ CP/M standard is for a serial card in slot 2. In fact, the
documentation I read indicated that the hardware configuration pretty
much matches that of Apple Pascal. So I did a STAT DEV: to show me what
devices were connected where. RDR: was set to PTR: and PUN: was set to
:PTP (presumably Paper Tape Reader and Paper Tape Punch respectively). So
then I did a STAT VAL: to see what the possible connections were for each
device. PUN: could be TTY: PTP: UP1: UP2:
I thought for a second and then figured it would be worth a try to see if
UP2: stood for the device in slot 2. Sure enough it did, and when I tried
a PIP to PUN: it worked.
So I was able to PIP the files directly from disk over the serial port to
my laptop. Very convenient.
There apparently is a utility that allows you to copy files from CP/M
disks to Apple DOS disks but it must have come on a DOS utility disk that
I just don't have.
I'm sure KERMIT or some sort of X-modem protocol was written that would
have made this a lot easier, but I seem to have misplaced my Apple CP/M
disks.
Oh well. At least I know how it's done, and this can serve as quick docs
for someone attempting to do the same in the future.
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
* Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *
>I've had one these since I was a kid, but I've never seen the rifle
>or the boxed games before.
I've never seen boxed games, but then A: I was pretty young when I used
to play with mine, (and I believe it predates me in existance), and B: I
have a feeling mine was never obtained via the market, but rather as a
test item directly from Magnavox, so it may never have been complete with
market packaging (I know I have a white labeled box that the system and
controllers and stuff goes in, I'm assuming that was standard packaging).
As for the rifle. I don't remember everything it was used for, but I know
I LOVED the haunted house game that used it. There was a haunted house
overlay, and basically "ghosts" appeared at various windows and doors and
you had to shoot them. (IIRC, the ghosts were nothing more than white
blocks, but hey, for early 70's that kicked ass!)
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Hi Stuart,
I'd seen your ad at:
http://www.classiccmp.org/pipermail/cctech/2003-January/009065.html
asking for the manual of the HP 5036A microprocessor lab. Have you got it ??
I also have one and also searching for a manual. There's no way to find it.
Cheers
Jose
Madrid-Spain
DRMO is the group at a US military base responsible for taking care of
surplused equipment. Some of it ends up being auctioned, for example,
through web sites like www.govliquidation.com. Some of it ends up
disposed of as scrap.
alan
---Original Message---
From: cctech(a)classiccmp.org
To: cctech@classiccmp.org,cctalk@classiccmp.org
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:05:15 -0000
Subject: RE: US Gov't/Navy DEC clearout
Hi folks,
Got this from a contractor working for the navy; how he found me before
he
found any other place that collects DEC stuff I don't know :)
Replies to email address he's given me (suttonmr(a)navair.navy.mil),
particularly as I don't know what the DRMO is! Pity there won't be any
disks
in that haul 'cos I could really do with some RZ29Bs....oh well.
'Course, it
might also just be PCs.
------
realname: CECIL FINLEY
email: ccfinley(a)bellsouth.net
message: I'm a contractor for the US gov't and they are in the process of
getting rid of a load of DEC equipement. You could get these items
through
the DRMO, but you'd have to pick them up and ship them personally.
Contact:
suttonmr(a)navair.navy.mil for further details.
------
cheers
--
adrian/witchy
www.binarydinosaurs.co.uk - the online computer museum
www.snakebiteandblack.co.uk - monthly gothic shenanigans
Hello -
I got your email address from a websearch - you seen to know
about the Quadram Quadboard.
I have a "Golden Quadboard", what the difference is between this
and the regular variety - I don't know.
However, I'd really like to be able to use the real time clock,
is there a setclock program, and a readclock that sets the DOS
clock from the board at bootup?
Do you have any idea where I could get programs like these?
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanx!
-Zorba
Hi Fred: You Wrote:Trantor was bought out by Adaptec. You might try them.
There were three models that I'm aware of:
T338 (rectangular thin box) that hangs off of the parallel port, or screw
it on so that it gets enough leverage to break the connector. The black
labelled earlier sub-model is significantly less reliablke than the later
blue labelled one. Also marketed briefly through NEC (they once had the
drivers on the web)
T348 cable based model.
T358 cable based model with ECP/EPP support
NONE of them are very reliable; but it's a handy way to hook things up to
laptops, etc that don't have provision for a "real" SCSI controller.
Would you like me to snail mail a copy of the disk? Or would you prefer
e-mail attachment?
COULD YOU KINDLY SEND ME THAT DRIVER AS AN ATTACHMENT IN REPLYIN TO THIS EMAIL? THANKS Doug Crosdale
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
I am in need of software for the UP200 programmer. LMK if you have it and
could send me a copy via email. Just picked up a unit and want to get
programming.
Thanks,
Stan
> From: dlormand(a)aztecfreenet.org (DAVID L. ORMAND)
>
> I have been told (by an IT professional, take that
> for what it's worth) that 5.25" 360K drives have
> the latch handle on the left side of the drive, and
> the 1.2M drives have it on the right side. All the
> drives I have in view right now, this is true.
>
> Anybody have a notion of whether this is absolutely
> true in fact?
You've already gotten an answer from others on the
list on this. LOL!
> It sure would make sorting drives easier than
> trying them out on an old peecee! (Which actually
> needs to be done anyways, to test for
> functionality.)
A rule of thumb I use, but I won't swear is
universal... Is the LED color. USUALLY... Red LED
signifies 360k/180k Drives, and a Green LED signifies
1.2mb Drives.
And I also think that as for IBM Drives, the 360k at
one point were made with and Asterisk molded into the
front case. I could have this reverse. But, I seem to
remember some discussion (perhaps here) that someone
thought it was odd that IBM would start adding the
asterisk to 360k Drives, hence having some with and
some without, rather than just making all 1.2mb drives
with asterisks.
I may have this one reversed though.
But, I've used the LED color as a good indicator for
years.
Also, if you look at the jumpers on the logic board,
near the drive select jumpers... A 1.2mb drive should
have a Speed Select Jumper (SS) to select High speed
Data Transfer to work on AT-Standard Floppy
Controllers, and low speed (for what? I don't know...
Maybe to work on an 8in Drive Controller?)
So, that's another indication of whether the drive is
high or low density.
Regards,
Al Hartman
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com