Just picked up something I've been looking for for quite a while off of
ePay - a Zenith Minisport ZL-2 (AFAIK, it's a ZL-1 w/2Meg RAM) laptop computer.
Actually, the computer wasn't the important part -- the important part was
the 5 boxes of floppy disks (3 yet unopened) - those suckers are harder
than hen's teeth to find nowadays...
3 batteries, power supply, black naugahyde case (dunno how many nauga's had
to die to make it... ;-) & the aforementioned disks...
$50-few USD shipped.
Good news:
1) lotsa disks now... I already have a bare 2" drive that I've always
wanted to build into one of my CoCo3's - thereby making it unique. I got
the drive on ePay about 4-5 years ago, but it only had one disk. Without
more storage, that was kinda pointless, IMHO..
2) It boots!
Bad news:
There's a password on it, so it doesn't boot very far... :-(
Any utils or 'cmos clearing' keypresses or jumpers I can use to clear that out?
Thanks, and laterz,
Roger "Merch" Merchberger
--
Roger "Merch" Merchberger -- sysadmin, Iceberg Computers
zmerch(a)30below.com
What do you do when Life gives you lemons,
and you don't *like* lemonade?????????????
Want Leading Edge PC, IBM PC/XT clone from the 1980's.
Need one with a rocker switch on the front. Dead or
alive (dead is no problem).
Thanks,
Rick Graves
gravesricharde(a)yahoo.com
Historical Note about AS/400...I worked at IBM when the original AS/400 was
first launched. The AS/400 was called "Project Overloard" before launching
- it was my job (as an intern) to tape up windows of the conference room
containing the AS/400 prototype with black paper so the press could not see
in. That was 1987 spring. I helped set up the unit with monitor, boot
the unit, and load OS, etc for meetings. To me the as/400 seemed to me
like an old fashioned computer. I was more interested in the PS/2's and
Windows 2.0. Speaking of which, does anyone have the old IBM Windows
Collegiate Kit disks? I have an old model 25 that originally came with
this as the OS. Techinically this is Windows 1.5 (?)
bd
The following file seems to have disappeared from the RT-11 archives and
>from the RT-11 freeware CD. even though the abstract is still listed.
Unfortunately, it is exactly the program I am looking for. Does anyone
have any hint as to its whereabouts?
I am using Fortran IV on RT-11 5.0.3 and have only a VT320 and LA75 for
output.
Thanks,
Barry
Submitted by: William C. Nowlin, Applied Research Laboratories,
Austin, TX
Operating System: RT-11 Source Language: FORTRAN Hardware Required:
Terminal or line printer Keywords: Plotting
Abstract: This FORTRAN Subroutine accepts from one to nine real
arrays and plots them on an 80 column wide line printer
or terminal.
Media (Service Charge Code): Source Listing (BA)
--
Barry Skidmore <skidmore(a)worldvenue.org>
> > Anyone know where Jim is? I need to get in contact with him ASAP.
> It's been nearly a month since he last responded to an email of mine.
> It's been several months since I sent him money. . . I'm now starting
> to get worried.
No need to worrs, I visited him two weeks ago. Well, I almost passed the thing he calls 'city' if they hadn't a stop sign right at the crossing of the only two roads, I I had to slow down for a pickup...
Anyway, he's prety hard working at the moment to get his home setup and the business back to a working condition. He is prety much determinated to finish his part of the deals. Belive me, I tried to talk him out of some of the things he hadn't send out by then, and nothing worked...
Gruss
H.
I finally got a good deal on a new hard drive for the machine which hosts
classiccmp.org (this mail list) and other classic computer related sites. The
new hard drive is 160gb, and cost 99 bucks plus tax... $110.00 total. So, if
anyone cares to donate to help defray the cost of the machine for classiccmp,
I'd appreciate it. You can mail donations to me, or paypal
jwest(a)classiccmp.org I don't want to get more money than the drive & memory
costs, so if donations cover it I'll tell the list right away so no more
donations come in.
Also, I need to get some more memory for the machine too - it's swapping
sometimes. However, I need to get down to the datacenter and pop the hood to
verify how many slots it has, how many are currently full, etc. I am sure it
takes PC100 or PC133 memory though. My guess is I'll be looking to buy two
512mb panels, or just one, not sure till I see the slots. Fortunately, memory
is cheap these days of that type anyways. I'll let the list know memory cost
when I find it out.
Why the extra space? Well, I have a LOT of stuff to put online that hasn't
made it to the ftp side of classiccmp.org yet. Plus, I'm housing decvax.org
and pdp11.org, plus I just acquired the hp2000.org domain and plan on putting
a lot of stuff there.
Regards,
Jay West
Well, I've been talking about it, and now I finally hove gotten
together a basic list of computer hardware and parts that I'm clearing
out of my basement... includes some older laser printers, 68k & PPC
Macintosh computers, couple Sun SparcStations, Pentium computers, couple
Cabletron 10baseT hubs, pair of Digital DELNIs, DECRepeater 350, and
other random bits...
Check them out at:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dwoyciesjes/hardware.htm
...and...
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dwoyciesjes/peecees.htm
PayPal, Money Order, Cash (if you come and pick it up), or trade.
As you can guess, you picking it up is preferred (but not required)
considering the amount of stuff I'm clearing out. Otherwise, I'll ship
FedEx Ground.
I'll give everyone 3 weeks to get thier offers in.
This is the stuff I'm looking in trade:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dwoyciesjes/wanted.html
--
--- Dave Woyciesjes
--- ICQ# 905818
As an old programmer years ago, I purchased a Rainbow to continue my
programming work at home. I have a Rainbow complete with keyboard,
monitor, documentation and I believe Fortran and C compilers and
Peachtree. Any ideas as to whether someone would be interested in a
classic? Any old computer museums?  Â
On Aug 12, 20:27, Ladyelec(a)aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/12/03 12:08:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
> cctalk-request(a)classiccmp.org writes:
>
>
> > Push a blob of Blu-Tak onto the mark, pull it
> > off; repeat until bored. I
>
> I have been looking for some Blu-Tak, where do you get it?
> Thx ahead of time,
Any stationer or some supermarkets (in the stationery section) in the
UK :-) Last time, I got it in either Office World or Ryman's.
Outside the UK, I don't know -- but it's made by Bostik if that's any
help.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Last chance: I need to get these out of the way soon. They'll be recycled
if I don't get a response within a couple days.
I have two Cipher 9-Track 1/2-inch Magnetic Tape Drives that I would like to pass
on to someone who might use them. One is fully operational, the other has a
power supply problem. You could use these for parts, too.
These drives are free if you pick them up in north Seattle, or I'll deliver
locally or regionally for a negotiable small fee, depending on the distance.
Cipher 9-track Tape Drive Model F880 640-90-1025U
-------------------------------------------------
Pertec interface
1600 BPI only
25/100 inches per second tape speed
Auto loading and threading
Built-in diagnostics
Handles 7", 8.5", and 10.5" tape reels
8.75" high, 19.0" wide, 24.5" deep
85 pounds
Does not include power cord
Does not include cables to connect to computer
See http://www.jenner.net/Items/Cipher_F880/index.htm for pictures of
this model of tape drive. The illustrated hard copy of the manual is
not included with this drive.
This drive has a power transistor problem. The manual for this drive is,
or soon should be, available online, and contains all the information for
someone adept at electronics to fix and maintain the drive. Alternatively,
a hardcopy of this manual is available for $25.
Cipher 9-track Tape Drive Model M891 340-96-1050U
-------------------------------------------------
Pertec interface
1600/3200 BPI
25/100 inches per second tape speed
Auto loading and threading
Built-in diagnostics
Handles 7", 8.5", and 10.5" tape reels
8.75" high, 19.0" wide, 24.5" deep
85 pounds
Includes rack-mount slides
Does not include power cord
Does not include cables to connect to computer
See the preceding link to the pictures for the F880 drive for illustration
of the type of drive. The M891 differs little physically from the F880.
This drive is fully operational and passes internal diagnostics. It also
reads and writes tapes under computer control. The manual for the F880 is
close to supporting this drive, and you can use the F880 directions for
most maintenance tasks.
Also, there is an eBay auction for the M891 manual at the moment. See
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2550715005
Send me an email if you are interested.
Dave
--
David C. Jenner
djenner(a)earthlink.net
In a message dated 8/12/03 12:08:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
cctalk-request(a)classiccmp.org writes:
> Push a blob of Blu-Tak onto the mark, pull it
> off; repeat until bored. I
I have been looking for some Blu-Tak, where do you get it?
Thx ahead of time,
On digest,
Isa
> Subject: Re: Removing Grease Pencil Marks On Books
>
Try using a DRY soft cloth--towel or old fashioned diaper and rub, rub, rub
in a circular motion.
Sometimes Goo Gone will do it but do a test spot first.
An artist gum eraser like the brand Magic Rub (I get mine at a craft store),
is another good try on inside pages.
Isa
I have several disk paks that are clearly marked RSTS 7.1 Image Data Backups.
Openvms Exchange says that they are not DOS11 or RT11 or Files-11 format.
So is there anyway way for OpenVMS to mount and read these disks, I've
scoured the search engines and haven't come up with anything yet...
Thanks,
Curt
>From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com>
>
>On Mon, 11 Aug 2003, Dwight K. Elvey wrote:
>
>> I'm not sure if this will work for grease pencils but
>> you might give this a try. Get a can of brake-clean from
>> the auto parts store. Place the page on a paper towel such
>> that the marked side is against the towel. Spray some
>> brake-clean, starting in a circular motion from outside of the
>> mark to the center. Remove from the towel before it dries.
>> Repeat with clean towel as needed.
>> I'd advise checking on some material that is similar first.
>> As I recall, I used this method on something like a sharpie
>> mark once. Use out side. Brake-clean will give you a real
>> bad hangover. It is mostly solvents and dry cleaning fluid.
>
>I assume this evaporates to some considerable degree and does not leave
>any marks or residue on the paper?
Hi Sellam
It is intended to leave no residue but if there are dyes
in the paper that it dissolves, it may leave rings. You need
to experiment a little. It will also dissolve some plastics
as well so always check first.
It is used to remove oils and old brake fluid from brake parts
in cars. I often use it to degrease parts that need to be extra
clean, such as when cleaning surfaces to epoxy.
Dwight
>
>--
>
>Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
>
> * Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *
On Aug 11, 21:28, John Lawson wrote:
> Hi Jay. I have done this two ways -
>
> One is to just drill four 1/4" holes thru convenient adjacent
hardware
> and bolt the cabs together.
That's basically what DEC did. I'm not sure if my cabinets are the
same type as Jay's; they're original DEC, black frames with grey side
panels and melamine (on steel) grey tops. Dimensions are 49_1/2" high,
20_1/2" wide, 28_1/4" deep.
The side panels are grey sheet steel with stiffeners on the inside (and
surprisingly heavy); at the bottom, they hook over the horizontal side
member of the rack, and at the top they have two steel "buttons" which
engage teardrop-shaped holes in the top horizontal side member.
The joining kit consists of 4 (or maybe 6, but I only have 4) bolts
with nuts and star washers, and a couple of black-painted alloy
extrusions which fill the small gap between the racks. The spacers
aren't essential, but you might want to put 1/8" worth of washers in
their place if you don't have them.
On the top horizontal side member, at front and back, are two holes,
2_1/2" and 3_1/4" down from the top of the cabinet. A bolt passes
through the lower of these at front and back, through the spacers,
through the corresponding hole in the other rack, and is secured with
star washer and nut. Ditto on the bottom horizontal side member,
except the holes are about 1/2" and 2_1/2" down from the top of the
side member, and it doesn't matter which hole you use, as the spacer
has two matching holes.
This is an attempt at an ASCII art diagram of the cross-section of the
extrusion:
_______
|___ ___| front, 3/8" wide
| |
| |
| |
| | distance between front
| | and centre "wings" is 1_1/4"
| |
____| |____
|_____ _____| centre, 1" wide
| |
| |
| | distance from centre "wings"
| | to back edge is 7/8"
|_|
All sections 1/8" thick
And this is a diagram of the side view of the front extrusion, showing
the positions of the three holes:
|\
||\
___|| \
| o|| ||
| || ||
| || ||
| || ||
| || ||
| || ||
| || ||
| || ||
| || ||
| || ||
| o|| ||
|_o||_||
The back extrusion is just the same, except without the cutout or bevel
at the top.
Does this help?
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Hi all,
Can anybody give me the settings for an M7133-YA. I had to change from an
M7133 and there are a lot more switches on the board.
Any help will be appreciated!!
Wim
>From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com>
>
>On Tue, 12 Aug 2003, Kevin Handy wrote:
>
>> > It is intended to leave no residue but if there are dyes
>> >in the paper that it dissolves, it may leave rings. You need
>> >
>> Or if your paper is yellowed (aged), it may also make the rings.
>
>That was my next question :)
Hi
I'm not sure if the yellowing of pages would make any
difference. You'll have to dig out some old paperback
SiFi book to give it a try.
Dwight
Before everyone thinks I've fallen off the edge of the world (tempting tho
it is some days) a brief status.
I'm behind on everything (short and to the point).
I ended up having to move on a house deal a few weeks ago unexpectedly.
It was that, or lose the house and probably be unable to reopen the
bowling center for a month or more. And seeing as that is my major
source of income...
But doing this took all the money I had on hand. So I'm in day to day
scrounge mode until the end of this week when I finally reopen. Then I
can start catching up on shipping, updates, etc...
In general, the 'Garage' sale is on hold until I get shipping caught up.
Kinda like cutting off the leg to spite the face, but...
Hell, by the end of the year I may even have a life again...
Of course then there are added little amusements like the 'rocket
scientists' at Register.Com who are unable to process a domain renewal in
less than "6 to 8 weeks" (their words) unless paid thru the blessed
'credit card'. So the web site and email for the center have been
killed... Even a USPS Money Order does not count for anything anymore!
Is it just me, or does it seem that the more 'hi-tech' that things become,
the stupider the people behind them seem to get???
Surviving... (barely)
-jim
---
jimw(a)agora.rdrop.com
The Computer Garage - http://www.rdrop.com/~jimw
> Anyone know where Jim is? I need to get in contact with him ASAP.
> --
> David Vohs
It's been nearly a month since he last responded to an email of mine.
It's been several months since I sent him money. . . I'm now starting
to get worried.
Erik Klein
www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum
The Vintage Computer Forum
Anyone know where Jim is? I need to get in contact with him ASAP.
--
David Vohs
netsurfer_x1(a)fastmailbox.net
--
http://www.fastmail.fm - Email service worth paying for. Try it for free
I've just aquired a DEC card reader; it will be some time before it shows up
here, so I thought I'd ask if anyone recognises it and can provide a model
number. Pic on this page:
http://www.corestore.org/1155.htm
Cheers
Mike
http://www.corestore.org
_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
Tim's Amstrad site <http://www.ncus.org.uk/fnov00.htm> has a link to a
SIG/M library but it doesn't seem to work.
Joe
At 04:00 PM 8/11/03 -0700, you wrote:
>If you can get the data off the disks, I'd be happy to stuff it up on the
>retroarchive site.
>
>g.
>
>
>On Mon, 11 Aug 2003, Dave Mitton wrote:
>
>> I have a large box full of 8" and 5.25" diskettes of SIG/M (~80 disks) and
>> PCBlue (~80+ disks) software. It's not the full set, but it's a large
chunk.
>>
>> I've seen people say that this stuff has been archived online somewhere
>> already, but I have trouble finding current working URLs.
>>
>> In any case, is there someone interested getting something useful from this
>> box?
>> (other than media)
>>
>> Dave.
Howdy All,
I just joined the list and am the owner of a small
(though my wife would dispute that) collection of
computers. I collect both PC's and Macintoshes, and
thoroughly enjoy all. One thing I seem to be getting a
lot of lately are laptops. At last count, I have 9 of
them, ranging from my beloved (and frequently used)
Tandy Model 102 to my Toshiba Satellite 133. One of my
latest acquisitions, though, I would like to get
running urgently. My computers actually have to work,
and do so all of the time!
I acquired an NEC Multispeed HD. The main battery in
it is gone (like to rebuild one, obviously), but the
machine does run (incidently, the option for removing
the LCD screen? That's great!). The problem is, I get
a 1701 error on HD startup, and the ROM based programs
can't be found. I think I may need to run a setup
program, but it can't be accessed either. Does anyone
out there know what might be the problem? Or, more to
the point, does anyone have the files needed to get
this gem running?
Thanks,
Robert
PS -I also acquired, in the same batch, a Toshiba
T1200XE with a dead backlight. Any idea where I might
be able to find parts?
RL
On Aug 11, 21:29, Vintage Computer Festival wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Aug 2003, Peter Turnbull wrote:
>
> > Since it's essentially coloured wax, I wonder if the technique used
to
> > remove wax (candle wax, usually) from clothing might work? It's
> > basically a case of ironing a sheet of brown (wrapping) paper over
the
> > wax. Paper-on-paper probably won't work as well as paper-on-cloth,
so
> > I'd try it on something unimportant first!
>
> Hmm, good suggestion. Might wax paper also work?
I don't think so, as it's already got a lot of wax on/in it. The
effect is to melt the wax with the iron and use the paper to wick it
out. Writing paper might be a reasonable substitute, or the kind of
tissue paper used for wrapping.
If you want to try a solvent approach, eiher turpentine substitute or
"white spirit" (oil paint thinner, somewhat like light, white kerosene)
might work. Apply with a small artist's brush, and dab off with
kitchen roll.
Another possible method might be to use a scalpel with a pointed blade
(10A or 11) to gently scape away the wax. This is the same as the
method used to retouch photographic negatives and B/W prints, something
I used to do in a former career -- and was pretty good at. It takes a
lot of patience, though; you must only scrape a tiny amount at a time
(this method works for Indian ink as well). It doesn't work very well
for endorsing ink, as that gets right into the fabric of the paper.
Yet another trick for cleaning up marks and grubbiness on books (pencil
marks, fingerprints, dirt) is to use a soft putty rubber (from an art
supplier) or Blu-Tak. Push a blob of Blu-Tak onto the mark, pull it
off; repeat until bored. I've often used that technique, once to clean
a set of very valuable exhibition photographs that had acquired dusty
fingerprints.
Please note, these are only suggestions -- I've not tried any of these
on wax pencil!
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Hi
I'm not sure if this will work for grease pencils but
you might give this a try. Get a can of brake-clean from
the auto parts store. Place the page on a paper towel such
that the marked side is against the towel. Spray some
brake-clean, starting in a circular motion from outside of the
mark to the center. Remove from the towel before it dries.
Repeat with clean towel as needed.
I'd advise checking on some material that is similar first.
As I recall, I used this method on something like a sharpie
mark once. Use out side. Brake-clean will give you a real
bad hangover. It is mostly solvents and dry cleaning fluid.
Dwight
>From: "Kevin Handy" <kth(a)srv.net>
>
>Vintage Computer Festival wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 10 Aug 2003, M Jones wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>I have been looking for a solution to the problem of removing grease
>>>pencil marks on books. I noticed that some time back, someone posted
>>>this question. I do not know if an answer was ever given. I have the
>>>same question. I have several books that have been priced with a black
>>>grease pencil (on the front cover as well as inside the opening pages).
>>>Does anyone know how this can be removed without causing damage to the
>>>book?
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I hate these stupid thrift stores that do that. Retards.
>>
>>Anyway, I never figured out a good way, short of using lots of eraser
>>heads. It usually leaves a big blotch, but sometimes I can effectively
>>erase the grease pencil.
>>
>>I know of no other way currently.
>>
>>
>>
>To remove regular pencil marks, you want as a minimum a soft eraser,
>like the Staedtler 52825 or the Pentel ZER2BP-K6. These are
>about 4 inches long and usually bought with a holder. They don't
>tear up the paper like those used on most pencils, and last a considerable
>bit longer.
>
>It depends on how hard it was written, and on the paper,
>but going over it lightly usually greatly reduces the darkness,
>or may entirely remove it.
>
>Using chemicals would probably cause as noticable a mark
>as the pencil marks make (especially if the pages are yellowed).
For those still collecting DEC systems documentation, this may be of interest. I've just put up for bid a group of nine 'Systems and Options' catalogs, covering VAXen and DECSystems, on E-pay at this link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2747346505
Thanks for putting up with my occasional ads.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Bruce Lane, Owner & Head Hardware Heavy,
Blue Feather Technologies -- http://www.bluefeathertech.com
ARS KC7GR (Formerly WD6EOS) since 12-77 -- kyrrin(a)bluefeathertech.com
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (Red Green, aka Steve Smith)
I think I mentioned this on the list before, but I can't find the emails
about it - I think the responses I was trying to dig up were sent directly
to me. So, I'll try again.
I have a PDP-11/44XA, that's the one that is in a "lowboy" rack with a slot
in the front door to slide your dectapes into the dual dectape drive. The
side panels of this rack measure 39.5" high by 30.0" deep. I would like very
much to make a dual bay rack out of this - where the two bays are directly
attached. I have recently obtained another rack that is exactly the same
height & depth, but it has no side panels. So, I was thinking about taking
one of the side panels off the existing 11/44XA rack, putting this new rack
next to it, and putting the side panel on the outside of the new rack -
voila - dual bay rack.
However, here's the problem - I see no way to easily bolt the two
non-sidepanel sides of the two racks together. How was this normally done?
Was there some special piece that slid inbetween the two racks to tie them
together? Without this will I run into problems with mounted peripherals in
each side clearing eachother? Dare I ask that someone has the mating
hardware spare to mate the two racks?
Thanks a million!
Jay West
Dear All,
I have been looking for a solution to the problem of removing grease
pencil marks on books. I noticed that some time back, someone posted
this question. I do not know if an answer was ever given. I have the
same question. I have several books that have been priced with a black
grease pencil (on the front cover as well as inside the opening pages).
Does anyone know how this can be removed without causing damage to the
book?
Many thanks,
M Jones
I have a large box full of 8" and 5.25" diskettes of SIG/M (~80 disks) and
PCBlue (~80+ disks) software. It's not the full set, but it's a large chunk.
I've seen people say that this stuff has been archived online somewhere
already, but I have trouble finding current working URLs.
In any case, is there someone interested getting something useful from this
box?
(other than media)
Dave.
Thanks to all for your timely replies. :)
Okay, if I've got to use 5.5 or 6.0 until I can find memory, that's what
I'll have to do. :) Can anyone provide me with a media set that I can
install with? I'm pretty sure my CDROM here will do 512-byte sectors...
Thanks!
Chris
"Fred N. van Kempen" <waltje(a)pdp11.nl>
Sent by: cctech-admin(a)classiccmp.org
08/10/2003 01:34 PM
Please respond to cctech
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org, Christopher Cureau <chrisc(a)addpower.com>
cc:
Subject: Re: MicroVAX 3100 questions
Chris,
Late reply... was kinda busy.
> I've become the new owner of a nice MicroVAX 3100, and I'm trying to
learn
> more about it. I had a few hardware-related questions, and I'm hoping
that
> someone here can give me some insight.
Yay! The 3100, albeit a bit slowish, are nice boxes... they're a real
VAX, they use SCSI for I/O (read: cheapo drives and stuff) and, as long
as they're taken care of, virtually indestructible. I have about 30 of
them :)
> This is what I know about the system so far -- it's got three RZ26
drives
> in it, although one appears to have died, since SHOW DEV only reports
two
> installed. If I were to replace the failed one, do I need to get my
hands
> on another Digital drive, or will any SCSI drive work with VMS? Also,
I've
> heard that some vaxes (or was it VMS, or both?) have limits on the size
of
> the drive it will work with...what would work best in this system?
The 3100 will not be able to boot off drives larger than 4GB, because of
how their ROMs address the sectors. Once booted, the OS takes over, and
they have no real limits. So.. make sure the OS boot area "lives" below
that size, and you're fine. Very old ROMs have a 1GB limit, but rather
than going with those, just swap the ROMs :)
Also, DEC drives are good, but any good SCSI drive will do. Many people,
me included, use Seagate HAWK drives (2GB, 3.5", 1" low-power), which now
come dirt-cheap.
> My VAX came with VMS 5.5-2 installed, but I'd like to go ahead and get
the
> hobbyist license and move to 7.2. Will my little VAX handle it? It's
got
> 16 megs of memory and about 2 gigs of hard disk space (unless I can coax
> that other RZ26 into working...)
16MB is pushing the limits for 7.x. I believe it *does* run, but it will
be slow as hell, and probably slower than that :) Try to stick to 5.5 or
6.x, or find more memory. The machines has a 32MB limit, by the way.
> Also, I don't have a CDROM, or a place to put it in the case. Again, if
> I get an external SCSI case, does it or the CDROM I put in it need to be
> specific to the VAX?
External cases work find (it IS just regular SCSI...) but there's a catch.
For reasons unknown to me, DEC decided to fit these machines with their
own weird "external SCSI" connector. Meaning, you need a very special
cable (BC36 I believe) converting from their connector to the regular
Centronics-like connector. If you have or can get that, no problems.
Otherwise, either mount the CDROM drive inside the chassis, or fix your
own "external" cable using a soldering iron and some patience.
The VAX is like most systems of its class: it requires a CDROM drive
able to handle 512-byte sectors. That obviously includes the DEC
drives, but also those from Sun, SGI, IBM and a truckload of modern
drives (Toshiba, Plextor) and, for some reason, many CD-R and CD-RW
drives.
> Thanks in advance for your help! I'm really looking forward to putting
> this machine back into service...
Yeah!
Cheers,
Fred (just done with fixing up the old DEC laptop ;-)
> Zane,
>
> At 2:20 PM -0700 8/11/03, Zane H. Healy wrote:
> >> case 1) is better). I have the V7 Mayfield book (but haven't scanned it
> >> for the 'net yet) and wrote a program on the Mac to read the V7 (RDS-0)
> >> structure. So it _can_ be done.
> >
> >So, is this Mac program something that will build on a standard UNIX system?
>
> High probability. It was originally built as an MPW tool; MPW is very
> Unix-like. I could probably clean it up a bit and verify that it actually
> works correctly under a few flavors of Unix. [You mean someone else would
> want to use this? :-) ]
>
> John
OK, the way you wrote the initial statement I figured it might be pre OS-X
code. I personally (at this time at least) don't have any need for such a
program, but I can see where others might.
Zane
> >Openvms Exchange says that they are not DOS11 or RT11 or Files-11 format.
> >
> >So is there anyway way for OpenVMS to mount and read these disks, I've
> >scoured the search engines and haven't come up with anything yet...
>
> I hope to be proven wrong, but... I'm not aware of any software to read
> RSTS file systems of that vintage for the VAX.
If there are they'd be DECUS utilities most likely. I'm not aware of any
either.
> Two ideas come to mind:
>
> 1) copy the packs, block for block (VMS can mount these "foreign", also
> read-only, and then copy them), and move the image copy to a machine
> running SIMH. Use the available RSTS 7.0 to restore the backups to an
> appropriately simulated disk. This is probably a good idea regardless of
> 2).
Once you've got access to the disks under SIMH, you should be able to back
the data up to virtual tapes, which you should be able to find tools to
access (as long as you back the data up to the right tape format).
> case 1) is better). I have the V7 Mayfield book (but haven't scanned it
> for the 'net yet) and wrote a program on the Mac to read the V7 (RDS-0)
> structure. So it _can_ be done.
So, is this Mac program something that will build on a standard UNIX system?
Zane
Perfect. Thanks.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kapteyn, Rob [mailto:kapteynr@cboe.com]
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 2:24 PM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: RE: Altair base CPU speed
2MHz
-----Original Message-----
From: Cini, Richard [mailto:RCini@congressfinancial.com]
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 9:28 AM
To: CCTech (E-mail)
Subject: Altair base CPU speed
Hello, all:
This might sound like a "you should know this" kind of question, but
what was the default CPU speed for the Altair 8800/8800a/8800b models? Is it
1MHz or 2MHz?
Rich
2MHz
-----Original Message-----
From: Cini, Richard [mailto:RCini@congressfinancial.com]
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 9:28 AM
To: CCTech (E-mail)
Subject: Altair base CPU speed
Hello, all:
This might sound like a "you should know this" kind of question, but
what was the default CPU speed for the Altair 8800/8800a/8800b models? Is it
1MHz or 2MHz?
Rich
See below for details. Contact original sender.
Reply-to: <wperry(a)fiduciary.com>
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 12:06:33 -0400
From: W. E. Perry <wperry(a)fiduciary.com>
To: donate(a)vintage.org
Subject: AS/400 1991 9404
I have a 1991 vintage AS/400 9404, located in New Jersey, with original
QIC120 distribution of system software through 1993 OS/400 v3 and *ALL*
manuals. In storage since 1995, but working then. Would you want this
machine or could you point me to someone who might?
Thank you.
Walter Perry
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
* Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *
It was 2-MHz. Here is a site about the 8800
http://www.machine-room.org/computers/289/
Dan
> Hello, all:
>
> This might sound like a "you should know this" kind of
question, but
> what was the default CPU speed for the Altair 8800/8800a/8800b
models? Is it
> 1MHz or 2MHz?
>
> Rich
>
>
> _____________________________________________________
> This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
At least the first 3 issues of the Mark-8 Newsletter were published by
Hal Singer using a ditto machine. I have copies of these issues which
range in quality from faded and smeared to _really_ faded and smeared. I
would like to try to "restore" these items to readable form - anybody
have any ideas? The worst pages are faded beyond simply photocopying
and/or OCR - I'm wondering if there may be some way to chemically "lift"
the images, UV light, etc.
As near as I can tell, all the information in these issues was re-issued
in the first three issues of the Micro-8 Newsletter (archived at Jim
Kearney's site), so no actual info is at risk, but it would be nice to
at least share .pdfs of the "real" issues.
Any interest in .pdfs of the Micro-8 Newsletter? As Jim notes, the
originals were none too easy to read, but I may try messing around with
them if anyone cares.
Jack Rubin
Wilmette, Illinois
USA
Hello, all:
This might sound like a "you should know this" kind of question, but
what was the default CPU speed for the Altair 8800/8800a/8800b models? Is it
1MHz or 2MHz?
Rich
Hi folks, geez, I have to clean out my garage. I can't do anything
with the computers anymore because I have no room to move. So, stuff
must go. I had already given 3 StorageWorks cabinets to the recycler
but had removed the power distribution boxes. Now I have a half
dozen of those boxes with the HUGE power cables sitting around. Is
there any use for those or should I just toss them too?
I also have rackmount kits for StorageWorx boxes, lots of them. So,
if you have those boxes and want them rack-mounted, let me know, else
these things will go to the recycler too.
thanks for your ideas,
-Gunther
Does anyone know wehere I can locate a power switch for an AT power supply
that has the 4 bayonettes pointed directly aft, opposite the switch, rather
than coming out the casing at 90 degrees to the switch? I have a tight spot
to fit the switch, and the original DEC proprietary switch was a soldered-on
intrigal part of the power supply... Help?
Cheers...
Ed Tillman
Store Automation Tech Support Specialist
Valero Energy Corporation
San Antonio, Texas, USA
Office: (210)592-3110, Fax (210)592-2048
Email: edward.tillman(a)valero.com <mailto:edward.tillman@valero.com>
[demime 1.01a removed an attachment of type image/bmp which had a name of Valero5.bmp]
I recently acquired a Compaticard IV without manual and drivers.
I found a manual on the Web, but haven't been able to find the
Compaticard IV "Master Diskette," which contains a driver
(cc4drv.sys) and several utility programs to use with the card.
Is there someone out there who has this diskette who is willing
to make a copy of this diskette (either hardcopy or electronic)?
Note that I'm not talking about the Uniform software package, but
if it were available, I'd be interested in it, too!
Thanks,
Dave
--
David C. Jenner
djenner(a)earthlink.net
Anybody know where to fin one of these hardware boards that allows a normal PC
drive to be able to copy any disk from multiple platforms?
I just seen one on ebay but it was bid up quite a bit. Would be very usefull
copying all the protected early era games in my collection before the disk
media goes bad (I think you can make images of the disks that can be
duplictaed at a later date).
Well, I never got to it yet, but I have some xylogics controllers for
diablo/pertec 2.5Mb front loaders. It was the aftermarket equivalent
to the RK05. Been meaning to try to get them running on RT-11 someday,
as I have a couple of dozen packs to read. I have all the hardware, cables,
drives, controllers, but just haven't tried to get them running. They
have been sitting for over a dozen years, so I don't even know if the
drives will start up. If nothing else shows up, let me know if you
want to take a stab at it.
Joe Heck
Hi,
I've been cleaning out the attic and unboxing a bunch of stuff I stored
away in the mid-'80s. I've got seveal 8008 systems - Mark8, RGS008,
SCELBI-8H, Mod8, MCS-8 - that I'd like to get running. I also have a lot
of related docs, including newsletters and manuals that I will be happy
to share as time permits.
I also want to get a few S100 "systems" together - Imsai/ProcTech,
Cromemco, TDL, Morrow and Godbout. I'm looking for a TDL SMB board,
Cromemco Tuart and Godbout CPU-Z for starters. Maybe an H8 as well.
I've been putting some stuff - mostly MITS - up on eBay to pay for parts
and tools, but I'd be interested in hearing about needs/wants/trades if
you have any of the above. Would also be interested in an S100 6809 card
if one was ever made.
Jack Rubin
Wilmette, Illinois
USA
Did you ever get the manuals below?
I have the following manuals:
7502 SPST Relay
7387 Floppy Disk
7304 Dual USART
7880 Z80 Processor
7507 General Purpose Interface
7803A Z80 Processor
7303 Keyboard/Display
Let me know if you need them.
I am looking for the following manuals:
7842
7508
Everett Feldt
feldte(a)cox.net
-----Original Message-----
Hello, all:
I bought a STDBUS instrumentation computer off of eBay last week for
$9, and it has some interesting boards in it. Unfortunately, the boards are
mostly older Pro-Log models and information is sparse. I've made contact
with the "legacy" manufacturer who wants $50 per manual for two of the
boards. I found information for two of them on VersaLogic's Web site.
So, here's the list of boards. If any one has original Pro-Log
manuals for these that they can copy and send me, please contact me
off-list.
Pro-Log# Description
7303 DSKY (Display/keyboard module)
7502 Relay output module (8 relays)
7605 Programmable I/O
7806-1 Z80 CPU card (I have copy of VersaLogic's manual)
Other P-L boards from another system I have:
Pro-Log# Description
7805-1 8085 CPU card
7604A 64-bit digital I/O (I have copy of VersaLogic's
manual)
Thanks again for any help.
Rich
Did you ever get the manuals below?
I have the following manuals:
7502 SPST Relay
7387 Floppy Disk
7304 Dual USART
7880 Z80 Processor
7507 General Purpose Interface
7803A Z80 Processor
7303 Keyboard/Display
Let me know if you need them.
I am looking for the following manuals:
7842
7508
Everett Feldt
-----Original Message-----
Hello, all:
I bought a STDBUS instrumentation computer off of eBay last week for
$9, and it has some interesting boards in it. Unfortunately, the boards are
mostly older Pro-Log models and information is sparse. I've made contact
with the "legacy" manufacturer who wants $50 per manual for two of the
boards. I found information for two of them on VersaLogic's Web site.
So, here's the list of boards. If any one has original Pro-Log
manuals for these that they can copy and send me, please contact me
off-list.
Pro-Log# Description
7303 DSKY (Display/keyboard module)
7502 Relay output module (8 relays)
7605 Programmable I/O
7806-1 Z80 CPU card (I have copy of VersaLogic's manual)
Other P-L boards from another system I have:
Pro-Log# Description
7805-1 8085 CPU card
7604A 64-bit digital I/O (I have copy of VersaLogic's
manual)
Thanks again for any help.
Rich