- test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org - classiccmp.org

by george.morten＠csuci.edu

I came across your email on the internet and was wondering if you might be able to help me. My wife is a court reporter of about 20 years. She is using an Xscribe XEC5. Not unlike my wife and I the cpu is getting a little long in the teeth. It is starting to have a lot of problems and we can't find anyone who can work on it. I noticed in your email that you had found and old XEC5 do you know how we might purchase such a unit. Or do you know anything about how I might find a manual on how to install a printer on the XEC5? I know a fair amount about computers but the XEC5 is an animal of a different color. Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Dr. George Morten Director of Office of C.H.A.P.s Career, Health, Accommodations, and Personal Counseling Service California State University Channel Islands One University Drive, Camarillo CA 93012-8599 805-437-8510 (phone), 805-437-8529 (fax) george.morten(a)csuci.edu

22 years, 5 months

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Your web posting on surge suppressor fires

by michael.r.holder＠boeing.com

Hi - I just stumbled upon your posting (at http://www.classiccmp.org/pipermail/cctech/2002-December/006703.html ) from last year - can you tell me if you had any other occurrences of this, or if you had any other responses beyond those linked to your post? Our fire protection engineers tell me this has been a bit of a problem, but I am not finding much information as I look into it for a class project. Did your local fire department respond to the three you mentioned, and was there an investigation / report? Thanks - Mike Mike Holder Boeing Fire Inspection (206) 544-7950 (206) 416-2020 pager (P.S. - Would you have saved the faulty suppressors by chance? I'd be very interested in seeing one - or more!.... MH)

22 years, 5 months

1
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PDP-8/I memory problem (fwd)

by root＠parse.com

Forwarded message: > From: jim <jwstephens(a)msm.umr.edu> > > Robert Krten wrote: > > > If I deposit 7777, I can examine and get 3777. This machine has 8k of > > core, and the problem is the same in both 4k banks. > > Cheers, > > -RK > > when you read memory, are here any locations where you get back a 1 bit > in this position from residual junk data in the core? Nope, unfortunately. I've been running "junk programs" and it looks like they scribbled all over memory; I looked through the first thousand or so memory locations, hoping for a 4000 bit, but no luck :-( > might be a clue what is wrong with deposit vs rad. > > can you examine other registers from the front panel and change that bit, or > is it just the core? No other registers are accessible from the front panel -- you're think of the PDP-11 :-) > if you can examine the registers, IIRC, can you put a program in there to load > a constant and deposit it in core? This would exercise a different path to the > core, though I know that the front panel is probbly doing a step to do the > deposit. > > I may be crossing wires with the pdp11 as far as the registers being > addressible in > memory, if so I apologize, it's been a long time, and I have no handy manual to > verify > this for you. No problemo; appreciate any help I can get :-) Cheers, -RK -- Robert Krten, PARSE Software Devices +1 613 599 8316. Realtime Systems Architecture, Consulting and Training at www.parse.com Looking for Digital Equipment Corp. PDP-1 through PDP-15 minicomputers!

22 years, 5 months

1
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The Geek Test...

by CyndeM＠vulcan.com

Well, I'm surprised to be only : 39.44773% - Major Geek But at least i'm a FEMALE GEEK! Cynde Moya, MLIS, PhD(c)

22 years, 5 months

1
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vax station keyboards

by INNERCTYCMP＠aol.com

have available (9) pct710 keyboards use with the vaxstation systems if interested please reply see pic thanks george ics computers

22 years, 5 months

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Any suggestions for cleaning yellowed computer parts?

by PLancashire＠columbia.com

don't do the dry/sanitize cycle ! or you may get a Salvador Dali case when you are done. -----Original Message----- From: Ernest [mailto:ernestls@attbi.com] Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 10:05 AM To: 'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts' Subject: RE: Any suggestions for cleaning yellowed computer parts? > A run through the dishwasher sometimes helps (note: sometimes). Yes. Beware on this sometimes, too. I ran a Coco-3 case through the washer and it cleaned the case very well but it also washed out the colors on the label. Now, the case and label have a uniform washed out look to them. Also, I've noticed that sometimes, running a case through the dishwasher doesn't always clean thick grime off. It only bleaches it so that it looks like it's gone, and the drying heat can bake and harden the grease so that it's more difficult to remove. I still prefer to use a sink full of hot soapy water, and a medium stiff paint brush, and lots of elbow grease. The brush gets down into the cracks and crevasses, and any texturing on the case. I also prefer this method because I enjoy the act of scrubbing everything up. I like to see the cleaned piece emerge from years grime and dirt, and the work gives me time to think. A toothbrush and a facial buff pad are also useful. Short of painting, there is no way to restore a sun damaged case that I've found. I have nothing against painting an old computer case, since many of them were painted to begin with -even the plastic case were often painted.

22 years, 5 months

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Any suggestions for cleaning yellowed computer parts?

by billdeg＠degnanco.com

Does anyone have a secret recipe that is *safe* for cleaning yellowed/stained plastic computer parts that were originally white? I have had some success with various cleaning agents, but nothing spectacular. -bill wilmington, delaware

22 years, 5 months

6
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New find: Digital LA424 MultiPrinter

by waltje＠pdp11.nl

Hiyas, Yay! Today wasa good day... besides having (finally) collected some of the VAXen I was supposed to pick up last week, I also got around to grabbing the LA424 I bought online. Nice printer! Came with everything included, *including* the DS200/DL they were using as a printerserver :) and the VT420 which was its console. Also, a (still sealed) box with ribbons. Now.. to find its manual. Anyone? (oheyah, and a box of wide fanfold ;-) Cheers, Fred -- Fred N. van Kempen, DEC (Digital Equipment Corporation) Collector/Archivist Visit the VAXlab Project at http://www.pdp11.nl/VAXlab/ Visit the Archives at http://www.pdp11.nl/ Email: waltje(a)pdp11.nl BUSSUM, THE NETHERLANDS / Sunnyvale, CA, USA

22 years, 5 months

1
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Hummer / Asteroids TV commercial

by evan947＠yahoo.com

Hi everyone, check this out, Hummer used the old "Asteroids" video game in their latest commercial: http://www.hummer.com/hummerjsp/world/tv/index.jsp

22 years, 5 months

19
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The Geek Test...

by GOOI＠oce.nl

How many of us clicked the link "This link is broken " just to see ... now that's geeky! - Henk (just a "geek" with 17.xxxxx% :-( > -----Original Message----- > From: David Woyciesjes [mailto:dwoyciesjes@comcast.net] > Sent: dinsdag 4 november 2003 20:20 > To: ClassicCMP > Subject: The Geek Test... > > > How many of you have seen this one? > http://www.innergeek.us/geek.html > > I only got a 7.88955% result... > > -- > --- Dave Woyciesjes > --- ICQ# 905818

22 years, 5 months

4
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hp 75000

by browe58＠comcast.net

i have an hp 75000 mainframe w/ plug ins. if anyone is interested, please contact me directly for details at: browe58(a)comcast.net. thanx. bill

22 years, 5 months

1
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Cats

by cb＠mythtech.net

>> Still the best cat toy is laser light pointer, they all love to go >> after that spot of light. > >I've have had an incredible amount of fun with a laser pointer and a cat. I thought my wife killed one of my cats with one once. The cat was so in need of catching the little red dot that it didn't realize it was exhausted, until it just fell over panting and stayed on its side for the next 20 minutes trying to catch its breath. Ever since then, we limit the laser pointer time to 5 minutes at a shot. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

22 years, 5 months

5
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vintage 3.5" disk drives

by PLancashire＠columbia.com

I use to have before the fire, a box full of about 50 different 3 1/2's My eon's ago i was responsible for evaluating 3 1/2's for Tektronix. Three different types, and you should have seen all the rev's Sony went through. The part I remember the most is the convincing the now loosing camps use to try to put down the Sony design. I'll see if I still have some of the doc's and such, if i do, I'll put them on a web site. -pete -----Original Message----- From: Curt vendel [mailto:curt@atarimuseum.com] Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 7:32 AM To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts Subject: vintage 3.5" disk drives Did Seagate and/or Shugart get into making 3.5" floppy disk drives around 83/84??? Anyone have pics of very early 3.5" disk drives? Curt

22 years, 5 months

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Any suggestions for cleaning yellowed computer parts?

by Innfogra＠aol.com

In a message dated 11/4/03 8:47:53 PM Pacific Standard Time, vcf(a)siconic.com writes: > Watch out with Goof-Off. You can easily melt the plastic of the case if > you apply too much or rub too much. Always apply it to a cloth first and > then to the case, and then don't cause too much friction. > > I find goof off works for removal of some yellowing. It does dissolve the surface of most plastics. After about 5 - 10 seconds of application I use ethyl alcohol to stop the reaction (Wipe with another saturated cloth). Seems to neutralize the Goof Off. You have to be quick. Doesn't work on clear plastic. Paxton Astoria, OR

22 years, 5 months

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The Geek Test...

by blstuart＠bellsouth.net

> How many of you have seen this one? > http://www.innergeek.us/geek.html > I only got a 7.88955% result... 52.66272% - Super Geek The thing that troubles me the most is that I think I'm more annoyed by the fact that there weren't more deeply technical questions so that I could score higher than by the fact that I scored high enough to be labeled a "Super Geek." Boy, it must be getting late. That sounded too much like Super Freak. Now I'll have that song stuck in my head for the rest of the night... Brian L. Stuart

22 years, 5 months

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Any suggestions for cleaning yellowed computer parts?

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com> > >On Tue, 4 Nov 2003, Kevin Handy wrote: > >> B.Degnan wrote: >> >> > Does anyone have a secret recipe that is *safe* for cleaning >> > yellowed/stained plastic computer parts that were originally white? I >> > have had some success with various cleaning agents, but nothing >> > spectacular. -bill wilmington, delaware >> > >> You aren't going to get it back all the way to the original whiteness, >> and it depends on if it is more yellowed from "smoking" or age, but >> spraying on 409 and letting it soak for a while before wiping it off can >> greatly improve the color. It takes several repeats: keep doing it until >> the yellow stops running. > >A run through the dishwasher sometimes helps (note: sometimes). >-- Hi I've had some success rubbing with goof-off. You know, the lable cleaner stuff. Dwight

22 years, 5 months

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Cats

by CordaAJ＠NSWC.NAVY.MIL

Actually, I remember reading somewhere that cats have limited color perception. To a cat, red appears to be black. Don't know what green maps to, however... -al- -acorda(a)1bigred.com -----Original Message----- From: Eric Smith [mailto:eric@brouhaha.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 2:51 PM To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts Subject: Re: Cats ben franchuk wrote: > Still the best cat toy is laser light pointer, they all love to go > after that spot of light. Sellam Ismail wrote: > I've have had an incredible amount of fun with a laser pointer and a cat. Note that doing this for the purpose of exercising the cat may violate US patent 5443036. The patent makes no claims about doing it to entertain the human and/or the cat, however. The patent may be invalid anyhow, as it describes using a "beam of invisible light", which surely won't hold the cat's interest. A beam of red light works much better. I haven't tried a beam of green light, but green laser pointer prices have come down enough that it is tempting to try it the next time I'm in Colorado. (None of my close friends here in California have cats.) Eric

22 years, 5 months

5
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Non crap plastic glue

by cb＠mythtech.net

>> I've got a plastic push gear I'm trying to glue back together, and so far > >Ah... What's it out of? Any chance in getting, or making, a replacement gear? Its actually for a VCR, and an off topic one I might add (its only a few years old). Yes I can probably get a new gear from the manufacturer, but they are a royal PITA when it comes to getting parts unless you have a specific part number. Of course, they don't stamp their parts with the numbers, nor do they offer exploded diagrams that list the part numbers... which leaves one in the nice situation of not being able to order the part because you don't know what they refer to it as! I've had to jump thru serious hoops to get parts from this company in the past, and I figured that glue would be easier then trying to get the replacement part. As it stands, from the sounds of it, glue isn't going to be any easier, so most likely, the whole VCR is going to be disposed of rather than spend any more time on it. (Its for a local animal shelter I support, its a crappy TV/VCR unit that the cats use to watch videos of birds... I'm not willing to spend any more time working on it when I have a VCR and TV I can donate to them instead, and since they are two different units, I can wire up the TV in the cat room, and the VCR in an office down the hall, which will greatly reduce the amount of cat hair and litter dust that gets in the VCR, which was the cause of the failure in the first place. What I REALLY want is to hook them up with a computer running MPEGs of their videos... that should drop the wear and tear factor down to almost nothing as the computer doesn't care if the hard drive spins 24x7 for the next 20 years) However, I'm glad I asked about glues, as this VCR is just what drove me to the point of trying to find a decent glue. I've run into the problem on a number of things in the past, so now I'm a bit more educated in the topic for the next time. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

22 years, 5 months

9
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Cats

by CordaAJ＠NSWC.NAVY.MIL

Ok, did a little web search on this, and found... http://videoforcats.com/catvision.htm Don't know how authoritative this is, but it sounds like they did a bit of research... It would be interesting to see how a cat would respond to a green laser pointer... apparently green is one of the colors they seem to be sensitive to. BTW, this is getting off topic... perhaps it should end soon. (with apologies for drawing it out)... -al- -acorda(a)1bigred.com -----Original Message----- From: Eric Smith [mailto:eric@brouhaha.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 4:37 PM To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts Subject: RE: Cats "Corda Albert J DLVA" <CordaAJ(a)NSWC.NAVY.MIL> wrote: > Actually, I remember reading somewhere that cats have limited > color perception. True, AFAIK. > To a cat, red appears to be black. Not true. Otherwise they wouldn't be interested in red laser pointers.

22 years, 5 months

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AVL road Runner computer

by Innfogra＠aol.com

Joe; I recently sold one of these on eBay, not for much. The Roadrunner is a multi event controller for multiple slide projectors. The monitor plugs into the video connector and is just a composite monitor for the computer. I think the 5" monitor power plug fits into a matching socket on the expansion box so that is the one I would use. the disk drive plugs into the back of the expansion cab. Plugged together something should come up on the screen. IIRC the Record Out and Play In are for the control signal pulses generated by the controller. Also Out 2 on the expansion unit. The patch panel looks like it is for audio. The most interesting for me would be the S100 Eagle. AVL did use S100 computer systems. The 9" monitor and the keyboard go to the Eagle box, as does one of the disk drives I think. The Roadrunner I sold was just the small controller keyboard. And it was missing a keycap; I got about $28 IIRC. The Eagle is late 1970s or early 80s and the Roadrunner is early 1980s. Video projectors have taken over most of the market for this for multiple slide projector shows. You seem to have complete sets of equipment so it is probably worth getting the Eagle and saving both. Paxton Astoria, OR

22 years, 5 months

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13W3 question / SGI Indy lost root passwd question

by jdickens＠ameritech.net

On Sunday 02 November 2003 14:04, owen(a)bardstown.com wrote: > Hello list, > > I have recently bought a SGI Indy from Ebay. It uses 13w3. Can I get any > ol' 13w3, or are there special needs for my indy? I also have an IBM > POWERstation 220 that uses 13w3, so a generic adapter would be nice ;) > if your monitor supports the resolution 1024x768 76 hz.. and it supports sync on green then yes an adapter will work... search on google for a list of supported monitors. Basicly you need a nice 17" or better monitor bargain basement won't cut it. > Now, the next question -- my Indy is in transit, but I know that noone has > root, including the seller. Also, no IRIX media is included -- no > maintenance mode. I do _not_ have a SCSI interface on my computer here. So, > I _can't_ pull the drive, mount it on Linux, and ta-da! if your indy has XL video there is linux support. but if you have any other framebuffers then your best chance is finding a copy of IRIX. > > So, can I do one of these: > > * Linux lets you boot directly into single-user mode with a kernel option. > Is that possible with this system? > > * If the system has a CDROM, can I use some type of Linux bootable CD with > SGI's FS support (EFS, if I recall.) to mount the disk and VI it? the biggest problem is if the drive is 4gig or smaller it uses 1k clusters when formated (unless IRIX was told to do otherwise) and linux XFS only supports 4k clusters. so the linux support is not availible. if it has IRIX 6.3 or earlier there is an explointable security whole that you can use to gain root access.. google on telnet exploit IRIX and you should find a link to a program that can exploit the hole. > > Or, if anyone else has ideas... I contemplated a SCSI add-in card for my > real box, any other thoughts? > > Also, the last question -- since I have no IRIX media, how can I do a > _complete_ backup -- should I buy a big SCSI HD and do that? Or are there > better means? (Anyone want to sell me a cheap copy of IRIX ;-)) if you can gain access to the root account there are tools to make copies of the disk. or else you can do a copy of the disk by installing a second disk. ebay should have plenty of small 50 pin scsi disks that can be used for this for a few dollars. the disk can be copied in the bios.. just look up disk replication and there are documents on how to do this. > > TIA, > Owen Marshall > Linux Geekboy, SGI > Fanboy

22 years, 5 months

1
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Non crap plastic glue

by cb＠mythtech.net

Since the archives are down, I can't search for this, but I know its been discussed here before. Can anyone recommend a glue for plastic that doesn't suck. Testor's no longer makes usable plastic model glue. The tube is labeled as "for polystyrene or ABS plastic", but I think scotch tape would hold better than this crap will. SuperGlue (Krazy Glue, whatever the brand on that tube says) doesn't do any better. I've got a plastic push gear I'm trying to glue back together, and so far three different glues haven't done squat! The last one I tried was some brand of a super glue designed to fill gaps and bond most anything to anything... yeah right! As soon as the gear was pushed, it snapped at the glue line again (after letting it dry all weekend). So what's a good plastic glue that I can buy, and where can I get it?!? Damn parental groups worrying about kids glueing their eye lids shut have ruined it for us all! -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

22 years, 5 months

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Anybody know what this HP test board is for?

by rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com

See <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl1/hp-test.jpg>. It's marked "FDB Test Board" and it's PN 10921-60009. You can't see it in the photo but the LEDs are labled 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, COMD, COMC. I found this in a box of HP 1000 parts so I suspect it for the 1000 or one of it's peripherals. Joe

22 years, 5 months

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AVL road Runner computer

by rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com

Last week I found an interesting looking computer in a scrap place. It was called a Road Runner and was made by AVL. I wasn't familar with it so I posted a question here on the CC list about it and no one knew exactly what it was but a number of people contacted me about it and wanted to see some pictures of it. Yesterday I went back and and bought it. I brought home and today I cleaned it up and took some photos. First, the system was made by Audio Visual Labs of Atlantic Highlands, NJ. Second, I ended up with TWO monitors, TWO floppy drives and a detachable keyboard even though the unit has a built in keyboard. After I bought the thing but before I left, I was looking around and found a bigger computer marked AVL Eagle (I THINK Eagle was the name on it). I opened it up and it looked like an S-100 chassis. It had 9 slots with 8 boards in it. Two boards had 8080 CPUs, three boards had Intersil 6204s (communications boards? and three boards had 2114 memory ICs on them. All the boards including the backplane were made by AVL. I'd already paid for my stuff and I didn't think this one was all that interesting so I left it behind. But my point is that I think I ened up with the keyboard, monitor and floppy drive from the second AVL system as well as those for the AVL Road Runner. Anyway here's the links to the pictures. The Road Runner computer <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avl-rr.jpg> and the back of it; <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avlrr-b.jpg>. Note the connector on the left that connects to the expansion box. Picture of the expansion box, front and rear; <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avlexp-b.jpg> and <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avl-exp.jpg>. Note the the floppy drive attachs to the expansion box and it appears that only one floppy drive can be used on the compter. Small VM-5 (5 inch?) monitor, front and back; <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl2/vm5.jpg> and <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl2/vm5-b.jpg>. Large VM-9 (9 inch?) monitor, front and back; <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avl-vm9.jpg> and <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/mon-b.jpg>. The external keyboard; <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl3/avl-kb.jpg>. The two floppy drives; <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl2/fd1.jpg> and <http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl2/fd1-b.jpg>. I don't know which drive goes with which system but I don't thinkit matters since the drives appear to be very similar despite the cables coming out at different points in the box and the drives being painted different colors. Both drives are marked FD-1. It's not made by AVL but this patch panel was in the box with the AVL stuff.<http://www.classiccmp.org/hp/avl1/patch.jpg>. From the markings on it, I'd say that it was used with the Road Runner. OK that's it. Can anyone tell me any more about it? Joe

22 years, 5 months

1
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The Geek Test...

by PasserM＠umkc.edu

26.23274% - Total Geek. And proud of it!

22 years, 5 months

1
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The Geek Test...

by RMeenaks＠OLF.COM

I am more geeker than you :-) 17.55424% - Geek Ram -----Original Message----- From: David Woyciesjes [mailto:dwoyciesjes@comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 2:20 PM To: ClassicCMP Subject: The Geek Test... How many of you have seen this one? http://www.innergeek.us/geek.html I only got a 7.88955% result... -- --- Dave Woyciesjes --- ICQ# 905818 ? 2003 OpenLink Financial Copyright in this message and any attachments remains with us. It is confidential and may be legally privileged. If this message is not intended for you it must not be read, copied or used by you or disclosed to anyone else. Please advise the sender immediately if you have received this message in error. Although this message and any attachments are believed to be free of any virus or other defect that might affect any computer system into which it is received and opened, it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that it is virus free and no responsibility is accepted by Open Link Financial, Inc. for any loss or damage in any way arising from its use.

22 years, 5 months

2
1
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Kaypro 2X starts up with silly display

by RMaxwell＠atlantissi.com

Tobias: Sorry I've fallen behind on the CCtech output, so this is a little behind schedule. First, I have schematics of your 2X (also the 2, 4, 10, II, Robie - most of them except the KII use the same motherboard with different BIOSes and varying levels of IC population). I can scan them, and send them to you in a day or three. Second: your display... unlike terminals where characters arrive serially, and unlike PCs (and the KII) which have video RAM in the CPU's memory map, the later Kaypros use a 6845 CRT controller and a custom 40-pin LSI chip. They form a separate video data/address bus, so any characters incoming have to be sent to a specified location using registers holding the target video address. Since the BIOS has to keep on updating the character location to write to, there's a lot of CPU cycles tied up in the transaction. This is why the Kaypro video is glacially slow on full-screen updates. I would suspect that you've got a bad contact on the LSI that bridges the CPU to the video. Try pulling (gently!) all the 40-pin ICs (6845 and Z80 too) from their sockets, and re-insert them. (Open inputs tend to read as logic 1, and the worst of your errors occur in the upper screen, where logic 0 is needed for the address.) If enough corrosion built up to mess up the keyboard, there's a good chance the IC sockets are a little wobbly too. You might also rub down the IC pins using a pencil eraser if they look exceptionally cruddy. *Standard ESD precautions apply* Hope this is useful. Regards, Bob (and his stable full of orphaned hardware). Part of original message: > Here are a few more details regarding the problem: > > I didn't start my Kaypro 2X for several years. Some weeks ago I gave it > a short try and everything seemed to be okay except for the keyboard. > Due to corrosion many keys didn't react. So I gave it to a friend, who > first tested all the keys to see which were in need to be cleaned. The > display was still okay at that time. Then he opened the keyboard and > cleaned the contacts inside the keyswitches (he had to solder them out > in order to do that). When he had finished the cleaning he assembled and > reconnected the keyboard and started the computer. From that time the > display went silly: > > - The powerup message shows up at random coordinates, however some of > the coordinates are okay (see > http://home.arcor.de/toa/tmp/kaypro-defekt.jpg). There are a lot of > additional characters, most of them are '?' (n with ~ above). A few of > the characters are blinking or show up with low intensity. Effect is the > same with or without keyboard connected. Everytime I hit the reset > button I see another random distribution. > > - When you type something on the keyboard (at the CP/M prompt) the > characters show up at random coordinates but the blinking cursor moves > in the way one would expect (one step to the right for each character, > 3rd position of new line when you hit return). W/o any keyboard input > the display is stable except for the blinking chars. > > - When you type in CP/M commands (I still have all the disks) they get > executed but the output characters show up at random coordinates (see > http://home.arcor.de/toa/tmp/kaypro-dir.jpg for an output of "dir"). > > Has anyone schematics for the Kaypro 2X? > Any hints what to do next? > > Tobias

22 years, 5 months

1
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The Geek Test...

by RCini＠congressfinancial.com

Oooh, boy: 34.12229% - Total Geek Mom will be proud :-) -----Original Message----- From: cctalk-bounces(a)classiccmp.org [mailto:cctalk-bounces@classiccmp.org]On Behalf Of David Woyciesjes Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 2:20 PM To: ClassicCMP Subject: The Geek Test... How many of you have seen this one? http://www.innergeek.us/geek.html I only got a 7.88955% result... -- --- Dave Woyciesjes --- ICQ# 905818

22 years, 5 months

1
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Non crap plastic glue

by cb＠mythtech.net

> The biggest problem with these small nylon gears is that >nothing sticks well to nylon. When you push it back on the shaft, it >will break most any bond. > What I recommend is that you core out the center of the gear so >that is just slides onto the shaft without and tension. You make >sure the inner surface is a little rough. Use JB Weld to glue it >on. Don't over drill the center or you won't be able to get a >good centering. Make sure things are clean and that gravity doesn't >allow the JB Weld to run into the bearing while setting. Use a >good cleaner, like brake clean ( automotive product ). I can't do that because it isn't a round shafted gear. Its a straight gear notched stick that is pulled from another gear. The stick in turn pushes or pulls other actuators in sequence. As a result, there is a HUGE amount of binding tension on the stick, and no glue I have tried yet as survived even the first use. I'm thinking of other solutions like JBWeld or some other high strength option and just coat the broken point with it. The hope is that it won't so much glue the break, as simply create a splint around it to hold the broken section in place. Or, just chuck the whole dang thing in the trash and start over (which is the easiest solution, and I know in my head that I should do that... but I'm sure all of you can relate to the obsessive need to fix something rather than throw it away) -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

22 years, 5 months

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Non crap plastic glue

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

Hi Chris The biggest problem with these small nylon gears is that nothing sticks well to nylon. When you push it back on the shaft, it will break most any bond. What I recommend is that you core out the center of the gear so that is just slides onto the shaft without and tension. You make sure the inner surface is a little rough. Use JB Weld to glue it on. Don't over drill the center or you won't be able to get a good centering. Make sure things are clean and that gravity doesn't allow the JB Weld to run into the bearing while setting. Use a good cleaner, like brake clean ( automotive product ). Dwight >From: chris <cb(a)mythtech.net> > >>> I've got a plastic push gear I'm trying to glue back together, and so far >> >>Ah... What's it out of? Any chance in getting, or making, a replacement gear? > >Its actually for a VCR, and an off topic one I might add (its only a few >years old). Yes I can probably get a new gear from the manufacturer, but >they are a royal PITA when it comes to getting parts unless you have a >specific part number. Of course, they don't stamp their parts with the >numbers, nor do they offer exploded diagrams that list the part >numbers... which leaves one in the nice situation of not being able to >order the part because you don't know what they refer to it as! > >I've had to jump thru serious hoops to get parts from this company in the >past, and I figured that glue would be easier then trying to get the >replacement part. As it stands, from the sounds of it, glue isn't going >to be any easier, so most likely, the whole VCR is going to be disposed >of rather than spend any more time on it. (Its for a local animal shelter >I support, its a crappy TV/VCR unit that the cats use to watch videos of >birds... I'm not willing to spend any more time working on it when I have >a VCR and TV I can donate to them instead, and since they are two >different units, I can wire up the TV in the cat room, and the VCR in an >office down the hall, which will greatly reduce the amount of cat hair >and litter dust that gets in the VCR, which was the cause of the failure >in the first place. What I REALLY want is to hook them up with a computer >running MPEGs of their videos... that should drop the wear and tear >factor down to almost nothing as the computer doesn't care if the hard >drive spins 24x7 for the next 20 years) > >However, I'm glad I asked about glues, as this VCR is just what drove me >to the point of trying to find a decent glue. I've run into the problem >on a number of things in the past, so now I'm a bit more educated in the >topic for the next time. > >-chris ><http://www.mythtech.net> > >

22 years, 5 months

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hp 2100 and 7900A disc

by oceanid987＠yahoo.com

hello, I see http://simh.trailing-edge.com but i can't work with similator of 2100. i have hp 2100S computer and hp 7900A disc drive. i haven't backup heads of 7900a and i want provide them. i have some program in exe format on 7900A disc,i want run them on pc but i don't know any way for run them on pc. i study about CPU,DMA,I/O system of hp 2100 and 7900A disc drive too. i doing work now to make my designed I/O circuit ,it input in pc's ISA and work like 7900A for 2100S 's I/O associate disc, but some work remain to complet this subject. i want write assemblly program (and input in memory of 2100) for read sector by sector data of 7900A with selected code 0 and write them on my I/O with selected code 1 and write another C program on pc for work with I/O and file this data. i think that if i can do it i shall write similator program and when decode I/O instruction with DMA,disc drive I/O selected code load addressed data in file to array (virtual RAM)in similator program. but i know that i need help very much. i don't know many things about your similator , i hope possible that i can work with your similator and run my 2100 program on similator. please send me any information that you think it is good. please help me. my name is mehdi . my email : oceanid987(a)yahoo.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree

22 years, 5 months

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PDP-11/44 want list

by PLancashire＠columbia.com

i evaluated the first 11/44's for use in a Tektronix product, even then we had some power supply failures. From my foggy memory, you may want to check, the power supply connector for corrosion, then check the status of the caps. Its not going to be easy to test the big ones if you don't have the equipment. Unfortunately i lost the complete set of schematics in a fire. Still think i have a CIS board which may want to get rid of -pete -----Original Message----- From: will kranz [mailto:will_kranz@SoftHome.net] Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 8:44 AM To: cctech(a)classiccmp.org Subject: PDP-11/44 want list John On Tue Oct 8 20:11:58 2002, you posted about your 11/44. I was searching for help with the H7140 power supply when I came across your post. I recently tried to power up a system I got a couple years ago, and have a flashing 'DC On' indicator. I don't know how serious this is, or if I might be able to repair/adjust it with some guidance. Suggestions? I have no documentation on the power supply. Thanks.

22 years, 5 months

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Non crap plastic glue

by cb＠mythtech.net

>Wow, my cats have never paid any attention to the TV even with animal >shows on. They won't look in the mirror either. It's like they know it >doesn't apply to them or something. Maybe because they can't smell it >as being an animal. One of mine has never paid attention to those things either. My other cat watches TV all the time. I know it is just the movement that catches his attention. He loves car chase scenes. He also used to be bothered by mirrors, but he's gotten used to them and ignores them now. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

22 years, 5 months

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Test. This is only a test.

by nerdware＠ctgonline.org

Wanna check if I'm getting through yet, and latency. Nothing to see here. Please move along.... Paul Braun Cygnus Productions nerdware(a)ctgonline.org "If you can make it all the way through Warren Zevon's 'The Wind' without crying, you have no soul. "At Microsoft, Quality is Job, oh, I dunno, maybe 6 or 7?"

22 years, 5 months

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Any suggestions for cleaning yellowed computer parts?

by sloboyko＠yahoo.com

I've had good luck buffing double-shot molded keytops back down to the original color and finish while removing a minimum amount of material. IMHO, this type of yellowing and chalkiness is not at the surface, but it must be from exposure of the plastic to ozone, UV light (flourescents?) or possibly smoke. I use metal polishing compound and a buffing wheel, then finish off with car rubbing compound. This process is tedious, but makes an _enormous_ difference in the appearance of equipment. Note, I mentioned "double shot molded"; obviously, pad printed keys (virtually every cheap keyboard made afrer 1985 is made with pad printing) is just going to come off. You need to look at the key from the bottom in order to determine this for certain. ===== -Steve Loboyko Incredible wisdom actually found in a commerical fortune cookie: "When small men cast long shadows, then it is very late in the day." Website: http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree

22 years, 5 months

1
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Sol-20 website update

by frustum＠pacbell.net

It has been about 11 months since the last update, but my Sol-20 site now has a ton of BASIC programs read to run on the two different dialects of PT BASIC. A gentleman by the name Ralph Hopkins sent me >500 files that he extracted from disks he had from the days of old. About 400 of them were BASIC programs. The only hitch was that he wasn't sure which programs ran or not, and in fact, which were even for the Sol. Complicating it was that Processor Tech. had two different dialects of BASIC of their own (BASIC/5 and Extended Cassette BASIC). I tried running all 400 programs and pulled the weeds (about 1/3 of them). Like a lot of BASIC programs of the era, the vast majority are turds, but there are certainly more than a few gems in the mix. The results of this effort are these two new web pages: http://www.thebattles.net/sol20/bs5_pgms.html http://www.thebattles.net/sol20/ecb_pgms.html The front door to the Sol website is, as always: http://www.thebattles.net/sol20/sol.html About 100 of the programs that Ralph submitted to me are various machine language programs and ASM. I have already gone through a lot of them, but the difficulty is in making sense of it all and organizing it in some fashion. A typical problem is that assembling the source code doesn't match the supplied binary. Eventually I'll sort it out and most of it will make it online. And Bob Stek, if you happen to read this, yes, I still have your PTDOS disks, and I haven't forgotten them. I haven't made a lot of headway on getting a helios system running, so I went and bought a catweasel card and hope to scrape the bits off the disks one way or another. That is the next project in my queue.

22 years, 5 months

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Apple //c in Inverness, Florida, needs new home

by vcf＠siconic.com

See below. Please reply to original sender. Reply-to: Manley Thompson <mrdoc(a)earthlink.net> ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 21:10:43 -0500 From: Manley Thompson <mrdoc(a)earthlink.net> To: Vintage Computer Festival <vcf(a)siconic.com> Subject: Re: your mail Thanks for the prompt reply. I'm located in Inverness, Florida; phone # (352) 341-1141 > [Original Message] > From: Vintage Computer Festival <vcf(a)siconic.com> > To: Manley Thompson <mrdoc(a)earthlink.net> > Date: 11/1/2003 10:10:18 PM > Subject: Re: your mail > > On Sat, 1 Nov 2003, Manley Thompson wrote: > > > I have an Apple IIc with the monitor and stand, external disk drive, > > manuals,=A0and software. I also have an Imagewriter II. You're welcome to > > any or all if you have need for them.=A0 Otherwise, I'll give them to a > > local college. Just let me know. -- Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org [ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ] [ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]

22 years, 5 months

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Any suggestions for cleaning yellowed computer parts?

by netsurfer_x1＠fastmailbox.net

I had a similar problem once. You might want to try using SoftScrub with bleach. I used that on a yellowed computer I had once. It didn't get it perfect, but it made it look a little bit better. Then again, I didn't put max effort into it, but still, thought you'd want to know. On Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:55:35 -0500, "B.Degnan" <billdeg(a)degnanco.com> said: > Does anyone have a secret recipe that is *safe* for cleaning > yellowed/stained plastic computer parts that were originally white? I > have > had some success with various cleaning agents, but nothing spectacular. > -bill > wilmington, delaware > > -- David Vohs netsurfer_x1(a)fastmailbox.net -- http://www.fastmail.fm - A fast, anti-spam email service.

22 years, 5 months

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Fw: Stack of HP9000/300 & 400 series of computers in seattle. U-haul.

by jeff.kaneko＠juno.com

Don't contact me; contact Mike Begley at the address below if interested . . . . --------- Forwarded message ---------- From: "Mike Begley" <mike(a)seattlefordean.com> To: <port-hp300(a)netbsd.org> Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 19:01:29 -0800 Subject: Stack of HP9000/300 & 400 series of computers in seattle. U-haul. Message-ID: <F99DE46EAEFF4C45A1E9274DFC3C8032324275(a)bsod.bigwhitehouse.net> I have a number of HP9000/300 & 400 series computers available on a U-haul basis in seattle. I don't have an exact count of my stash, but it's somewhere on the order of: 10-15 HP 9000/425 (varying amount of memory, probably 16-64 megs) 2 HP 9000/433 (one with 128 megs, the other with 64) ~3 HP 9000/340 assorted models 1 HP 9000/360 or thereabouts. All or most of these machines are in working order. At least one of the 340s has an external SCSI interface. Take them away. Maybe offer something neat in exchange, if you so choose. I'm going to want the space soon, but I don't want to discard them; I'd rather see them return to use. Email if you are interested. -mike ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!

22 years, 5 months

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Raining Control/Interface modules (model 7020-127)

by vcf＠siconic.com

I have a mess of Rainin Control/Interface modules. They are basically lab interfaces for controlling "stuff". I have no docs, and not much more idea of what they do beyond this simple description. I imagine they have some relays or optoisolators in them. If you know what they are and want a mess of them, make me an offer (privately please). -- Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org [ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ] [ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]

22 years, 5 months

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glue

by kdavis＠ndx.net

I'd suggest Epoxy. Depending on your application, you can get the good stuff from boating stores. They sell the resin and hardener separately. You can get different types of harder that set quickly or over night if you need to reposition what you are working on. It's excellent for filling gaps, can be sanded, drilled, sawed or painted. If you have something like a cracked panel or faceplate, you can buy some fiberglass cloth and "paint it" with the epoxy and place it on the backside. It will be stronger than the original. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay? storeId=10001&langId= -1&catalogId=10001&classNum=1&subdeptNum=&storeNum=&productId=28496 Kirk > > Can anyone recommend a glue for plastic that doesn't suck. Testor's no > longer makes usable plastic model glue. The tube is labeled as "for > polystyrene or ABS plastic", but I think scotch tape would hold better > than this crap will.

22 years, 5 months

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MDOS (Motorola EXORciser) disk format ?

by aek＠spies.com

the format of the disc can be found in the MDOS user's manual www.bitsavers.org/pdf/motorola/M68MDOS3_MDOS3um_Jun79.pdf

22 years, 5 months

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Radio Shack/Science Fair bonus

by erd_6502＠yahoo.com

I recently won an auction described as a "Science Fair Junior Electronic Lab 10 in 1"... the picture showed a couple of blue grid boards which were, AFAIK, not part of a 10-in-1 It turns out that in addition to the 10-in-1, there was an entire (and a partial) "Science Fair Junior Project Board Kit" (cat no. 28-153) - one manual, two plug boards, one IC board (14-pin socket + 14 springs) plus a double handful of mixed loose components. The components are somewhat interesting from a historical perspective - there are several flavors of transistor sockets, several segmented LED displays (some on PCBs as from an LED calculator, some in DIP form), mercury switches, reed switches, and a bag of resistors with a "King Kits" card from Poly Paks. I'm curious if there's a repository of ancient Radio Shack kit manuals out there - I did not get a manual for the 10-in-1 (cat no. 28-225), but at least I got its box (covered in packing tape, grrr.) -ethan The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo http://search.yahoo.com

22 years, 5 months

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list archives

by jwest＠classiccmp.org

Ok, with the performance problems held at bay for the moment (they are fixed, but there's more I want to do there), I am going to temporarily dig into fixing all the archives, and probably making them searchable. I'm still scouring through the files on the server, but so far it looks like I may be missing huge chunks of the original mbox format messages. Guess that's what happens with drive crashes, drive upgrades, etc. I've got more to look through, but if it comes to that, does anyone happen to have the entire classiccmp archive in mbox format? Thought I'd ask in advance just to see how hard I should try to find it all :) Thanks! Jay West --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

22 years, 5 months

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Western Digital WD1003S-WA4 ISA MFM Cards

by CCTalk＠catcorner.org

16 bit ISA MFM/Floppy/Serial/Parallel cards. I have about 15 left. Shame to throw them away. Anyone want one or two? I'll send them just for postage. Jumper settings are at: http://www.embeddedlogic.com/TH99/c/U-Z/20298.htm. Shipping is around $5.75 to continental US priority mail. I'll ship parcel post, which is less, but slow and unreliable. Replies off list. I can take postage payment via paypal. Let me know, Kelly

22 years, 5 months

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MicroVAX 3800 wi SCSI

by Innfogra＠aol.com

This weekend picked up a nice score from the State of Oregon. Mainly because I could go pick it up. At that time an unknown configuration. All I knew is that it was a MV3800. Turns out to be a standard MV3, KA655-AA, with a nice CMD SCSI card, a CQD-443/tm. No Drives on either the DSSI or SCSI, TQK70, KFQSA, 2 MS650-BA (32 meg RAM), DESQA, DP-11 single serial and a CXY08-M 8 port mux in a BA213 cabinet. Originally installed in 1990. I don't think it fits into my plans, open to offers or trades. Reply off list to innfosale(a)aol.com please. Paxton Astoria, OR 97103

22 years, 5 months

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HP 64000 Logic Developement System available

by rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com

I just got off the phone with a woman in Texas that has a HP 64000 LDS that she wants to sell. She says that it has lots of cards and lots of external cables and lots of pods. She doesn't really know what it is and didn't have it right there in front to her so that's the best description she could give at the time. If anyone is interested, you can call her. Cindy Croxton 830-792-3400 830-792-3404 fax Joe

22 years, 5 months

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OKIDATA OL830 Laser Jet Printer - ERROR ENGINE FAN PROBLEM

by jhfinexgs2＠compsys.to

Just a follow-up since hopefully everyone was busy over the weekend and did not see my appeal for HELP!!!! To be more specific: OKIDATA OL830 LED PAGE PRINTER Model No. EN257OHA When the power is applied, after a few seconds the front LED shows: "INITIALIZING" followed a few seconds later by the error message: ERROR ENGINE FAN PROBLEM At that point, the SERVICE LED turns red. Otherwise, everything else looks and sounds normal. I have managed to remove the top plastic portion of the case (two bolts at the front). Of course, when the power is applied in this case, the error is "COVER OPEN". The fan at the back rear on the left is free spinning, but is seems doubtful that is the problem. Had anyone the knowledge as to what might be wrong and how it can be fixed? Sincerely yours, Jerome Fine -- To obtain the original e-mail address, please remove the ten characters which immediately follow the 'at'. If you attempted to send a reply and the original e-mail address has been discontinued due a high volume of junk e-mail, then the semi-permanent e-mail address can be obtained by replacing the four characters preceding the 'at' with the four digits of the current year.

22 years, 5 months

1
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"Woz" IIgs, & Dynabyte computers...

by cb＠mythtech.net

>It depends on how you define the words "first", "true" and "portable". >This may seem like ridiculous quibbling but the problem is that you must >judge based on a specified set of conditions, otherwise the title is >meaningless. What would be considered the first "laptop" by today's laptop standards? (ie: can actually sit on your lap, and has a self contained battery power supply, screen, and keyboard). I saw someone the other day try to claim that Apple released the first laptop computer (Mac Portable), but I'm sure it wasn't anywhere near the first (it was released in 1989 IIRC) -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

22 years, 5 months

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Lots of stuff available.

by mtapley＠swri.edu

>Mark Tapley writes: > > Steve, > > ftp seems to be working just fine.... > > > > OK, I think they are all there. Do you see them OK? > >Yup, about 30MB of them. Browsers pointed to this URL: > > ftp://ftp.crash.com/pub/tapley > >will get the list of images and can go from there. Feel free >to point people at it. Confirmed to work by someone off-site. > >--S. And also, Stan Seiler pointed out to the CCtech crowd, At 12:26 -0800 11/3/03, Stan Sieler wrote: >http://www.lzrd.net/ClassicCMP/ > >has the photos, I think. > >-- >Stan Sieler Thanks to both! -- - Mark 210-522-6025, page 888-733-0967

22 years, 5 months

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