Picked up this card today. PN 13197-60001. Anyone have any info on it? I
TRIED to use Al's new website to check the HP 1000 CE manual. It over ten
minutes to load the FIRST page and I couldn't load any more. Has anyone
else tried it and are you having problems with it?
Joe
I came out 33.72871...
Cheers...
Ed Tillman
Store Automation Tech Support Specialist
Valero Energy Corporation
San Antonio, Texas, USA
Office: (210)592-3110, Fax (210)592-2048
Email: edward.tillman(a)valero.com <mailto:edward.tillman@valero.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: David Woyciesjes [mailto:dwoyciesjes@comcast.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 1:20 PM
To: ClassicCMP
Subject: The Geek Test...
How many of you have seen this one?
http://www.innergeek.us/geek.html
I only got a 7.88955% result...
--
--- Dave Woyciesjes
--- ICQ# 905818
I have some old tape backup drives I'm getting rid of. I know some of you
do data conversion services, so if one of you that does that wants one
(or all), they can be had for the cost of shipping.
I have a Maynard 150 MB drive plus 14 tapes, a few connecting cables and
some ISA and MCA interface cards. This is an external drive, with manual
and software (complete setup).
Also an Iomega Tape 250 drive and a stack of tapes (not sure the number,
but about a dozen or more). This is an internal drive, manual, cables,
software are with it.
And a Colorado 250 drive. No tapes. External drive, no cables, software,
manuals or power supply.
And an unknown internal tape drive. All the front says is "250 MB", so
its obviously a 250 MB drive. I don't know who makes it or anything else
about it. There are no obvious markings on it to determine who makes it.
I have no tapes for it, or software or manuals. There is a cable attached
to it, looks like it plugs inline into the floppy controller.
Also I have a cassette tape drive. Its a TEAC something in an external
SCSI case. Uses 120 MB cassette tapes IIRC. I was never able to find the
correct tapes for it. I do have a box of the wrong tapes however.
Like I said, these are all available for cost of shipping. Preference
will go to someone that will use them for data conversion or recovery
services (or anything else that directly supports classic computers). But
anyone that wants them can ask for them... I'd rather they go to someone
instead of the dumpster.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Hi, All
I just tried to boot my Motorola s8000 which has a 68030
and SCSI controller. All are
Motorola Mvme cards . The system lost the boot path. ???
If I use BO 2,0 it finds the
IPL loader but needs the file name to boot. I can't seem
to guess the right name. Is there
a way to interface with the IPL or a way to read the boot
path directory. I have no manuals
on this or OS tapes.
I would also like to find any of the manuals and OS tapes
for this.
It has a MVME141 processor, and a MVME327 SCSI card. I
don't really
remember the UNIX version I believe it was 5.3. This has 4
SCSI drives
and only the 2,0 finds the IPL loader.
- Jerry
Good(ish) news! I plugged in the 13w3 adapter to my Indy, and then a
good Sony Trinitron monitor -- and it WORKS! Well... the opening screen
does. After that the monitor goes black. I tried it on a random noname
monitor from 1992 -- after the "Stop for Maintenance" prompt goes off
screen, all the video gets very garbled very fast. Is this an adapter
problem? Since I have two monitors here that seem to support sync on
green, can I make this work?
Thanks!
Owen
--
Owen Marshall
BISI Systems Administration / Tech Support
(502)349-9444 x106
> IIRC, the Indy *only* provides sync-on-green, which is what confuses
> the Sun 13W3-HD15 adapter (it expects composite-sync).
Indy XL and Indigo XZ boards (the ones I have at least) provide
composite sync as well. I "fixed" a Sun 13W3->VGA adapter to work on
the SGI as put forth here:
http://lists.debian.org/debian-mips/2003/debian-mips-200311/msg00013.html
--
Ryan Underwood, <nemesis(a)icequake.net>
>
What about putting it on Al's site ?
--
I'd be happy to mirror anything Tony or Mr Davis would like
added to the bitsavers site.
Now that the new domain is running, I was planning on adding
other sections besides the pdf's
I've just mirrored Van Snyder's 1401 site, now that it has
gone behind jpl's firewall is isn't available to the outside
world any more.
On Nov 8, 8:06, Lyle Bickley wrote:
> I own a Personal Iris, multiple Indys, multiple Indigos, multiple
Indigo2s, a
> Crimson, an Octane, an O2, and an Onyx. Only the O2 supports
standard VGA
> signals. The rest are all sync-on-green.
The Indigo, Indy, most Indigo2s, and (AFAIR) the Octane all provide
separate syncs as well as sync on green. I have a collection as well.
One of my Indys has been used with a lot of different monitors since I
bought it in 1995; it's currently using an SGI monitor which only uses
the SOG, but previously had a monitor which didn't support SOG.
Several of my friends bought reconditioned Indigos from SGI and bought
standard VGA monitors with them. I don't know if the Personal Iris or
Crimson provide separate syncs (some other 4D series do -- that's why
they have more than 3 BNCs), but the later machines do -- and the
original question was about an Indy (which does).
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
I recently bought a Fluke 9010 test pod. With it, I got a model 210-9080
8080 Processor Adaptor Module made by Wildwood of Phoenix Arizone. This is
a pod similar to the Fluke pods. It has a wide ribbon cable coming out of
it that terminates in a 40 pin DIP plug presumably to plug into a CPU
socket. On the box is a ZIP socket (for the CPU?). It also has a double row
of 40 pins that appear to be test points. On the other end of the box is a
20 pin ribbon cable with a ribbon cable socket on the end of it. Does
anyone know what this is for or anything about Wildwood?
Joe
On Fri, 31 Oct 2003, Joe wrote:
> Does anyone have any info on the Data General
model 6243 terminal? I
> found sites that talk about various programs that
emulate it but
> nothing else.
>
> Joe
Try searching for the terminal's "type" rather than
its model number. For instance, model 6242 is type
D210.
And check out vt100.net; I think I saw a couple
Dasher manuals there, though not for my D210. :-(
(If anyone out there has a D210 manual, they need
to shoot a copy over to Paul at vt100.net.)
Cheers,
Bill.
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/
On Nov 7, 19:09, vance(a)neurotica.com wrote:
> On Fri, 7 Nov 2003 owen(a)bardstown.com wrote:
>
> > I just bought a rad Indy from EBay. It seems to start up fine, as
shown
> > by the rockin' startup music! However... I can't get video... I
have a
> > 13w3 --> VGA adapter that was supposed to work with it. The light
on
> > the Indy goes green but my NEC Multisync monitor stays red. I tried
the
> > adapter on my IBM POWERstation and saw the NEC monitor turn amber.
Any
> > thoughts?
>
> Sun Adapter != IBM Adapter != SGI Adapter
>
> If you have a Sun Adapter, it will not work on your SGI, and it will
not
> work on your RS/6000.
Indeed, though it may be worth mentioning that the Indy also provides
sync-on-green, and if you have a monitor which also supports
sync-on-green, you might get it to work that way.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Nov 7, 16:42, Eric J. Korpela wrote:
>
> > Sun Adapter != IBM Adapter != SGI Adapter
>
> That's weird because my Sun adapter definitely works on my Indy.
Maybe it a
> question of what
> sync types your monitor supports.
Suns use different pins for sync than SGIs (and Suns usually use
composite sync, while SGI use separate H and V), and SGIs also use some
pins for monitor type sensing. However, quite a lot of Suns and most
SGIs also provide sync-on-green, so if the monitor supports that, and
the other signals don't cause confusion, it should work.
Contrary to popular belief, most SGIs from the Indigo onwards do not
require a SOG monitor.
Sorry, I don't know what the pinouts are for HPs or IBMs (apart from
R,G, and B). If anyone cares to tell me, I'll add the info to my crib
sheet:
13W3-SGI
================
pin A1 - Red/R-Gnd
pin A2 - Green/G-Gnd
pin A3 - Blue/B-Gnd
pin 1 - monitor type 3 (ground this on old machines, leave open on
Indy etc)
pin 2 - monitor type 0 (LSB)
pin 3 - Composite Sync
pin 4 - H Drive
pin 5 - V Drive
pin 6 - monitor type 1
pin 7 - monitor type 2 (MSB)
pin 8 - digital gnd
pin 9 - digital gnd
pin 10 - digital gnd or Sync 2
13W3-SUN
================
pin A1 - Red/R-Gnd
pin A2 - Green/G-Gnd
pin A3 - Blue/B-Gnd
pin 1 - n/c
pin 2 - n/c
pin 3 - sense 2
pin 4 - sense ret
pin 5 - Composite Sync
pin 6 - n/c
pin 7 - n/c
pin 8 - sense 1
pin 9 - sense 0
pin 10 - C-Sync ret
For Indy, Indigo2:
MonID monitor guessed
111 no monitor (defaults to lowest res, lowest refresh)
110 Single Scan 1024x768 60Hz 15"
101 Dual Scan 1280x1024 & 1024x768 60Hz 16"
100 Idem 19"
011 MultiScan 1280x1024 & 1024x768 21"
010 1280x1024, 76Hz, 16" (82 kHz line freq.)
001 DM-20 MultiScan 1280x1024 76Hz 19" or Single Scan Sony
1280x1024 72Hz
000 1280x1024 60Hz only
for older hi-End:
MonID
111 No monitor
110 Single Scan 1024x768 60Hz 15"
010 MultiScan 16"
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Nov 7, 20:47, David Holland wrote:
> And has the console device NVRAM setting set to the graphics adapter?
> (If I remember correctly, you get black screen if its set to serial
even
> w/ graphics boards in one.)
No, you still get something initially.
> You might try pulling the graphics adapters out, unplugging the
> keyboard, and hooking up a serial console.
You don't need to remove the graphics adaptor on an Indy or later
machines, and I wouldn't recommend doing so.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Nov 7, 19:04, Lyle Bickley wrote:
> You've got to use a "sync on green" monitor with all 13W3 sgi
products.
No you don't. You can use separate sync if you connect to the right
pins. This is true for Indigo, Indy, and Indigo^2, and probably older
ones too.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
I just bought a rad Indy from EBay. It seems to start up fine, as shown by the
rockin' startup music! However... I can't get video... I have a 13w3 --> VGA
adapter that was supposed to work with it. The light on the Indy goes green but
my NEC Multisync monitor stays red. I tried the adapter on my IBM POWERstation
and saw the NEC monitor turn amber. Any thoughts?
-o
Did you ever find a converter for PFS:Winworks or maybe a copy of the
program itself?
I am needing to convert 300+ documents and trying to find a solution.
Brian Mahler
National Computer Forensics Lab
You'll have to look at your monitor's documentation. Most high-end monitors
are capable of sync-on-green - most inexpensive monitors do not support it.
There are adapters that "attempt" to create standard sync signals from the
sync-on-green, but I've had mixed results (at best) with them.
Your best bet is to pick up a nice sgi monitor (20"). Depending on where you
live, you'll find them modest in price and if they are working properly, they
have outstanding color, etc.
Lyle
On Friday 07 November 2003 19:06, you wrote:
> Ohboy. How can I tell if my monitor is sync on green? Documentation? Is
> there an adapter to change this?
>
> -o
>
> > You've got to use a "sync on green" monitor with all 13W3 sgi products.
> > Secondly, make sure that the 13W3 adapter is for sgi and not sun
> > (different pinouts for monitor "mode" settings).
> >
> > Lyle
> >
> > On Friday 07 November 2003 14:45, owen(a)bardstown.com wrote:
> > > I just bought a rad Indy from EBay. It seems to start up fine, as shown
> > > by the rockin' startup music! However... I can't get video... I have a
> > > 13w3 --> VGA adapter that was supposed to work with it. The light on
> > > the Indy goes green but my NEC Multisync monitor stays red. I tried the
> > > adapter on my IBM POWERstation and saw the NEC monitor turn amber. Any
> > > thoughts?
> > >
> > > -o
> >
> > --
> > Lyle Bickley
> > Bickley Consulting West Inc.
> > Mountain View, CA 94040
> > "Black holes are where God is dividing by zero"
--
Lyle Bickley
Bickley Consulting West Inc.
Mountain View, CA 94040
"Black holes are where God is dividing by zero"
I was contacted by someone interested in selling an IMSAI 8080 and
related parts. The following are the items available and the prices
they are hoping for:
IMSAI 8080 Microcomputer $2200
Includes 8080 CPU and Tarbell I/O cards
4K memory cards (16 of them) $ 250 each
64K memory card (1 of them) $ 500
Cromemco Dazzler Graphics cards $ 800
Dual 5 ? inch floppy drive (1) $ 350
8080 micro monitor chip set $ 150
Heath keyboard/monitor (serial) $ 350
I am passing this along in case someone is interested. Please contact
Sarah at parkrangersara(a)hotmail.com if you are. Rumor has it that she's
already been offered $2,000 for the machine. . .
The usual disclaimers apply. I have nothing to do with Sarah, the
machine, etc. and I am just passing this along for your information or,
at worst, your amusement.
Best regards,
Erik Klein
www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum
The Vintage Computer Forum
I have a copy of the original Scelbi 8008 book, which has some short code
samples, w/ octal equivalents. I might be able to locate the original
8008 manuals, if you're interested.
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
Frank,
Do you still have any TIL308 BCD Display Driver LED? If you do I would be
interested to buy them.
Thank you,
Dee Rose
Orbit Sytsems
949-852-9999 ext 224
949-261-9999 fax
Frank,
Do you still have any TIL308, BCD Display Driver LED. If you have any to sell, I would be interested to buy.
Thank you,
Dee Rose
949-852-9999 ext 224
A friend of mine has a pile (55) 8" floppies which were created
on a Motorola EXORciser MDOS system. Does anyone know if the data
on these disks can be recovered on a CPM system or similar, or will
he need to find an EXORciser?
--tnx
--tom
John
On Tue Oct 8 20:11:58 2002, you posted about your 11/44.
I was searching for help with the H7140 power supply when
I came across your post. I recently tried to power up
a system I got a couple years ago, and have a flashing 'DC On'
indicator. I don't know how serious this is, or if I might
be able to repair/adjust it with some guidance. Suggestions?
I have no documentation on the power supply.
Thanks.
I'm making a Friden Flexowriter simulator to bring up my LGP-21
(solid-state follow-on to the LGP-30). I do not have access to the
LGP-21 Flexowriter, which is modified from a "standard" (sic) flexo in a
number of ways (peculiar code set, special fromt-panel switches).
I have hardware documentation for the LGP, which includes a fair chunk
of Flexo data (schematic, etc) but it's not much help with the interface
timing. I think it's likely the signal names are standard (sic) Friden,
but I don't know.
(The simulator will be PIC-based, and will diddle the interface signals
under control of host-resident software, to which it'll talk to via
serial port.)
I'm assuming it's a "busy/done" system, eg. to print, the computer sets
up print data (before point a, below) then asserts the strobe or gate on
(at a). (call it Print Start, or interface "busy"). When the Flexo has
assimilated the data, it asserts Print End, or "done", at b, which
clears Print Start; when Print End deasserts, at c, the interface is
ready to begin the next cycle:
a b c
+---------+
| |
to flexo START -----------+ +---------------
+----------+
| |
>from flexo END ---------------------+ +----
I believe receive is similar, with the directions reverse of course.
Specifically, I can't determine the timing relationships of signals:
(print)
Tx print start?
JL29 print end?
(receive)
Xs receive start?
Sr receive end?
JL12 "start input cycle"
JL11 "end of flex input cycle"
Receive especially bugs me, since it appears to be two sets of handshake
that do the same thing. The descriptions in "quotes" are from the LGP-21
algebraic descriptions of the Flex interface.
(There are also signals JL32, JL33, JL28-20, and LGP-specific Friden
switches "START COMPUTE", and maybe "MANUAL INPUT", which the LGP sees
in some manner.)
Here's the Flexowriter cable end pinouts, if it's any help.
Flexowriter connector (JL) P38, end of cable to J19.
to/from
flexo
01 TP5 to Print data
02 TP4 to Print data
03 TP3 to Print data
04 TP2 to Print data
05 TP1 to Print data
06 TP6 to Print data
07 Tx to Print start ("busy")
08 -60V from
09 Sr to Receive end ("done")
10 /BQ from Manual input
11 JL11 from "End of flex input cycle"?
12 JL12 from "Start input cycle"
13 P5* from Receive data
14 /P5* from Receive data
15 P4* from Receive data
16 /P4* from Receive data
17 P3* from Receive data
18 /P3* from Receive data
19 P2* from Receive data
20 /P2* from Receive data
21 P1* from Receive data
22 /P1* from Receive data
23 P6* from Receive data
24 /P6* from Receive data
25 SIGNAL GROUND
26
27 Xs from Receive start ("busy")
28 JL28-20 to
29 JL29 from Print end ("done")
30
31 SIGNAL GROUND
32 JL32 to
33 JL33 from "translator cam"?
34 SIGNAL GROUND
35 117AC to
36 117AC to
37 CHASSIS GROUND
I have a laptop SLT 286.
On start error massage appears:
1970 Disk 0 error
162 setup not installed (run setup)
Insert diagnostik diskette in the drive A
(resume = "F1" key)
Afterwards I can not access hard disk.
Please can you send me the diagnostik diskette
Prim.Dr.Stjepan Varosanec
Hi, not that I want to go hunting on your turf :-) but I need to
buy a lot of older untested RZ28 and RZ29 disks (hundreds) for
cheap. So I have contacted the places I know of and may get
perhaps half of what I need from one. So I need more addresses
where I can ask. The focus is on computer-junkyard and not
so much reseller becasue I want to buy untested possibly failed
equipment.
thanks four your hints,
-Gunther
Well, I'm finally getting around to building up my Digital Alpha
PC64/275MHz box. Only problem is I have no L2 cache SIMMs, so it won't
boot up at the moment. Plus, I still have to rewire my ATX power supply
for it. Got the mother board connectors from a dead donor Aspen Alpine
box :) Tried a regular AT power supply on the PC64, but since there is
no cache, no go...
Anybody know where I can get some cache for cheap/trade?
--
--- Dave Woyciesjes
--- ICQ# 905818
Hi folks,
I'm in the process of restoring my 8/I, have run into a little problem with
the core memory, and am out of ideas on what to do next.
The symptom is that I can deposit into the core memory now (after replacing
a few cards and a core plane), but I can only deposit 11 bits; the 12th
bit remains 0.
If I deposit 7777, I can examine and get 3777. This machine has 8k of
core, and the problem is the same in both 4k banks.
Here's what I've done so far to try and eliminate / narrow down the
problem -- any further suggestions are most welcome!
Swapped G228 A36/B36
Swapped G228 B36/B37
Swapped G021 A31/A32
Swapped G221 C37/C38
Swapped G221 D37/D38
Swapped two edge M220's
Swapped G624 A38/B38
(The G221 swaps may have been related to an earlier problem, which
I've since fixed)
None of these swaps yielded any change in the problem... Since it
affects both banks, I'm assuming it must be a problem in some common
circuitry.
Just so as I'm not totally embarrasing myself, the 4000 bit (the LEFT-most
bit) is MB00, right, and not MB11? :-) This whole MSB = 0 and LSB = 11
is very confusing :-)
Thanks!
Cheers,
-RK
--
Robert Krten, PARSE Software Devices +1 613 599 8316.
Realtime Systems Architecture, Consulting and Training at www.parse.com
Looking for Digital Equipment Corp. PDP-1 through PDP-15 minicomputers!
Here is a note from the Mentor Graphics SupportNet site. (I work for
Mentor.)
Michael Holley
www.swtpc.com/mholley
Adobe Acrobat Reader 6.0 Issue
There is a bug within Acrobat 6 which causes SupportNet incompatibility.
This issue was identified by Adobe as a known issue with the Acrobat Reader
6.0. This version of the reader is not capable of handling the HTTP headers
generated by the SupportNet security system.
Solution 1: Save the PDF file to your hard drive, and open it in Adobe
Acrobat or Adobe Reader.
1. Right-click the link to the PDF file on the Web site, and then choose
Save Target As (Internet Explorer) or Save Link As (Netscape Navigator) from
the pop-up menu.
2. In the Save As dialog box, select a location on the hard disk, and
then click Save.
3. Double-click the PDF file to open it in Adobe Acrobat or Adobe Reader.
Solution 2: Disable Web Browser Integration.
1. In Acrobat or Adobe Reader, choose Edit > Preferences > Internet.
2. Deselect Display PDF in Browser, and then click OK.
Solution 3: Use Acrobat 5.x.
Remove Acrobat 6.0 or Adobe Reader 6.0, and then install Acrobat 5.x. You
can download the free Acrobat Reader 5.1 from the Adobe Web site at
www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/alternate.html
Last week I was having a LOT of trouble downloading PDF files from Al's
website. Adobe Acrobat was taking about ten minutes just to open the first
page and I couldn't get any pages beyond the first one. Erik suggested that
I right click on the file and save it without opening Adobe Acrobat. I
tried that and it worked MUCH better. However Al said that I should be able
to open the PDF file with Acrobat and read it and then save it without any
problems. That agrees with what I knew about PDFs. Anyway I've been
wondering what was going on so today I typed "Why is Adobe Acrobat slow"
into Google and I got some interesting results. I found LOTs of reviews of
Acrobat version 6 that also complained about it being SO SLOW. Some of the
reviewers suggesting sticking with Version 4. Following their advice I
uninstalled my current version of Acrobat (ver 5.something) and then went
to oldversions.com and downloaded version 4 and installed it. It works MUCH
MUCH better!
If you're having problems with Acrobat being slow. Try removing it and
then installing version 4 and see if that helps. It works for me!
Joe
At 02:11 PM 11/4/03 -0800, you wrote:
>
>> You're not supposed to view them in your web browser.
>
>It should work fine that way, assuming the pdf plugin is sending the
>right html commands to the web server.
That's what I thought! But I tried saving the files directly and it
worked MUCH better. I could save an 18 Mb file in a couple of minutes that
way. Using Acrobat I couldn't even get one page in the same time. I tried
to open and save a 9Mb file last week and it ran for over 2 1/2 hours and
only got about 1/4 of the file before a power glitch crashed the computer.
No idea why Acrobat slows things down so much. It doesn't seem to be a
problem on small files but the time seems to go up exponentally with file
size.
I see people reading docs this
>way all the time.
>
>To answer the original question, the WCS card is documented in the
>1000 M/E/F Engineering Reference
>http://www.bitsavers.org/pdf/hp/1000/1000_MEF_EngrRef/
I couldn't find a specific docs for it but I thought it might be in the
Engineering Reference. I downloaded it this afternoon but haven't had a
chance to look through it yet.
Thanks,
Joe
>
>92851-90001_Mar81_6.pdf section B
>
>
>From: steve <gkicomputers(a)yahoo.com>
>
>--- Fred Cisin <cisin(a)xenosoft.com> wrote:
>>> Something else to consider: If you donate something
>> to a valid non-profit
>> (501C3?), then the amount that you can deduct is
>> what you paid for it;
>> EXCEPT,... if you had had it for over a year before
>> making the donation,
>> then you can deduct the "fair market value". I paid
>> the usual $10 for a
>> Centronics 101 printer. A few years later, I
>> donated it to City College
>> of San Francisco. (They NEEDED a printer for their
>> TRS-80s that could
>> withstand heavy use and abuse) The IRS was
>> perfectly content with my
>> taking a $1000 tax deduction, although, if I were to
>> have made the
>> donation within the first year after I bought it,
>> they would only have
>> permitted the $10.
>>
>How did you figure $1000 as the "fair market value"
>for a Centronics 101?
Hi
It surely has more than $10 value as aluminum scrap.
Dwight
Anybody looking for these? I was at Computer Recycling & Refining in
North Branford, CT today. Not a bad place. About 2000 square feet. And a
bunch of stuff. Two interesting things I saw were a "Woz" signed IIgs
(?) and a Dynabyte computer. According to the guy there, it was the
first portable? Considering it's about the size of a couple mid-tower
PCs, it's not really that portable... Either way, both are for sale.
Give them a call, 203-488-0535.
If you looking for some other PC or Mac computers or parts (pallets),
maybe some HP switched hubs (at least 1 pallet), or even a couple large
Cisco Catalyst 5500 units; they may be able to help you out. They
welcome visitors, just call in advance...
--
---Dave Woyciesjes
---ICQ# 905818
I am looking to buy a HX-20. Yes we still use it! Do you have any ideas
about where I can find one.
Thanks, Pat
PAT LOBBES
SOURCE, INC
972-371-2626
972-371-2597 FAX
plobbes(a)source.com
I was searching too and found nothing. I did it myself.
CHS 992/11/63 about 320-350 MB. The master/slave jumper is 1-2 of CN3 On is
Master off Off is Slave.
The ug numbers are military numbers.
fair radio in lima ohio used to sell this "type" (pun)
of surplus gear.
they were used for landline and radio teletype (rtty).
nadcom (or is it nadcomm?) (i cannot remember thier
web addy) may have more info - they are a teletype
museum and do have some mil stuff in thier collection.
Bill
Message: 26
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 20:11:34 -0500
From: Joe <rigdonj(a)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: OT: Id this Teletype machine
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Message-ID:
<3.0.6.32.20031104201134.00800100(a)pop-server.cfl.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Last week I drug home a Teletype machine just
seconds before it was
going to be tossed in a dumpster but I can't identify
it. It LOOKS like
a
model 28 KSR Compact as seen at
<http://www.vauxelectronics.com/gil/tty/teletype_corp.htm>
but the only
id
tag that I can find on it says TT-187A/UG. Inside is
another tag that
says
MX-1114A/UG Keyboard. Can anyone id it from those
numbers? Also found
a
second piece that looks the M28
Transmitter-Distributer shownon the
same
page. The label in it says CY-871/UG TT-69A/UG. I need
help id'ing this
one
too. The property on it says that it came from
McDonald Douglas and
that
it's a "reader, tape".
Joe
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Heisenberg says we can't know the speed of <thing> and it's location at
the same time.
What if I concentrate on location while timing <thing>
ie <thing> is at "5" and 1 second later it's at "35" is it not going
"30" per second?
and while it was going 30 per second didn't I see it at 5 and 35?
(note to a real physicist this question is probably meaningless...)
On Oct 31, 14:23, Patrick Finnegan wrote:
> > Looks like it. If you've tried two terminators and two
controllers,
> > all that's left is the cable or the drive. I assume you've got the
> > ribbon cable from the controller to the bulkhead connector round
the
> > right way.
>
> Hmm, right that's one thing I'm not too sure about... the cable is
just
> straight-thru, right? I'm using a makeshift cable (one of a couple
that I've
> tried), and it's straight-thru, because I was assuming the 'real'
cable is as
> well. Sometime today I'll try to look to see if there's anything too
obvious
> that's wrong (eg missing 4MHz clock signal).
Yes, it is straight-through. One of mine has 8" of old 40-pin ribbon
cable from an Acorn 2nd Processor, vintage 1985 or so, and it works
fine. The back of the bulkhead connector is just a dual row of pins on
0.1" centres, and an ordinary female header fits perfectly. Of course,
depending on which way up you have the bulkhead connector, you might
need a half-twist in the ribbon cable.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On 11/3/2003 07:14 PM -0600, cctech-request(a)classiccmp.org wrote:
>chris wrote:
> > ...
> > Can anyone recommend a glue for plastic that doesn't suck. Testor's no
> > longer makes usable plastic model glue. The tube is labeled as "for
> > polystyrene or ABS plastic", but I think scotch tape would hold better
> > than this crap will.
"Glue" is very plastic dependent. Different solvents or adhesives for
different plastics.
Most plastic models are styrene, and the solvent in your typical model
"cement" is MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) which can be bought by the pint in
the paint/solvent section of good hardware stores.
Many model builders use liquid cement, which avoids many of the fillers and
other stuff in the viscous tube cements. They and other smelly compounds
are in there to discourge sniffers, not eye lid accidents.
> >
> > SuperGlue (Krazy Glue, whatever the brand on that tube says) doesn't do
> > any better.
> >
> > I've got a plastic push gear I'm trying to glue back together, and so far
> > three different glues haven't done squat! The last one I tried was some
> > brand of a super glue designed to fill gaps and bond most anything to
> > anything... yeah right! As soon as the gear was pushed, it snapped at the
> > glue line again (after letting it dry all weekend).
> >
> > So what's a good plastic glue that I can buy, and where can I get it?!?
> > Damn parental groups worrying about kids glueing their eye lids shut have
> > ruined it for us all!
There is nothing good for everything, and I don't thing anything will be
able to stand up to the shear force on your gear teeth. Sorry.
Dave.
Last week I drug home a Teletype machine just seconds before it was
going to be tossed in a dumpster but I can't identify it. It LOOKS like a
model 28 KSR Compact as seen at
<http://www.vauxelectronics.com/gil/tty/teletype_corp.htm> but the only id
tag that I can find on it says TT-187A/UG. Inside is another tag that says
MX-1114A/UG Keyboard. Can anyone id it from those numbers? Also found a
second piece that looks the M28 Transmitter-Distributer shownon the same
page. The label in it says CY-871/UG TT-69A/UG. I need help id'ing this one
too. The property on it says that it came from McDonald Douglas and that
it's a "reader, tape".
Joe
How do I break into a NEXT machine where I know no passwords, root or
otherwise? Is it possible to make this machine usable or am I going to
have to wipe the drives and start over again? Any help is appreciated.
--
Wayne Talbot <awt(a)io.com>
I've decided that I don't really like old PC's(altho I'll still keep
my 5150), so I am getting rid of my Compaq Portable. It worked last I
plugged it in about a year ago, I haven't tried it since - so no
guarantee that it still works(but it should). It's been sitting in
the basement and never gets used and I have too much stuff so it has
to go. It has a half-height hard drive - something like 20 or 40MB,
and a full-height 5.25" floppy drive. It's available free to the
first person who can pick it up in Portland, Oregon. This is a
pick-up only, I'm not going to ship something this big. Any takers?
-JR KD7BCY
> I still prefer to use a sink full of hot soapy water, and a medium stiff
> paint brush, and lots of elbow grease. The brush gets down into the cracks
> and crevasses, and any texturing on the case. I also prefer this method
> because I enjoy the act of scrubbing everything up. I like to see the
> cleaned piece emerge from years grime and dirt, and the work gives me time
> to think. A toothbrush and a facial buff pad are also useful.
Lestoil liquid cleaner diluted with a little hot water will remove the most
astonishing amount of sheer crud of anything I've ever tried that's not
either an abrasive or a solvent. Use it with a brush; let it sit awhile.
..Seth Lewin
If there is any one local to Houston TX that is interested in a set of
RSX11M+ Version 2.1 ( and a few 11M 4.1) manuals please let me know OFF list.
A good customer of mine is about to throw them out.
Sorry it will need to be a local pickup.
Yes I am still subscribed but have not been able to keep up with all the
traffic.:(
Thanks
Dan
and didn't the thing have to have a load to test it ?
-pete
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Duell [mailto:ard@p850ug1.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 1:06 PM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: PDP-11/44 want list
>
> John
> On Tue Oct 8 20:11:58 2002, you posted about your 11/44.
> I was searching for help with the H7140 power supply when
> I came across your post. I recently tried to power up
> a system I got a couple years ago, and have a flashing 'DC On'
This generally means one or more of the power rails is out-of-spec...
> indicator. I don't know how serious this is, or if I might be able to
> repair/adjust it with some guidance. Suggestions? I have no
> documentation on the power supply.
You _need_ the schematic. The H7140 is one of the most complicated PSUs
you'll ever come across, and it's also dangerous inside. There's
rectified mains (400V DC at essentially unlimited current -- the
smoothing caps are the size of coke cans!) on screw terminals on the top
of
some of the PCBs. This _will_ kill you, if you touch it. Not 'might',
will.
Basiclaly, there are 3 switch-mode PSUs in that box. The first is a
small
one, used to power the PSU control circuitry. The second provides the
+5V
and +/-15V logic supply rails. The last provides a +36V rail that can be
battery-backed. That one is then regulated down to +/-12V and +/-5V for
the memory boards. It also supplies the H-bridge driver that provides
the
35V 70Hz supply for the fans.
The schematic for this supply is a dozen or so pages. I wouldn't want to
work on one without it in front of me, even though I've repaired them
before...
-tony
For all you PS/2 fans out there, I've got the following MCA ethernet
cards available.
3Com Etherlink/MC (AUI, BNC)
3Com Etherlink III MCA (AUI, BNC; 2 of these cards available)
Artisoft 10569 (BNC, RJ-45; "Alice" chipset)
Anyone want them? Price is postage plus $1.00
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
I unsubscribed from this list because of the volume,
but I still read the monthly archives. I noticed than
some people were wondering about the HP CRT mold
problem. I really did solve it, by building a wooden
box (to contain the IMPLODING crt), and mounting the
CRT in it. Then, I went to the hobby store and got
some nichrome wire used in cutting foam for model
airplanes. I used an old AT power supply at 12 volts
to power the wire, to just below red hot (I determined
the length of nichrome wire to do this with
expermentally, it was about 3.5 feet). I made wooden
handles with screws to hold the wire as I sliced
through (very slowly!!!) the old RTV, keeping the
nichrome wire towards the front glass and not touching
the CRT. after the front glass came off, acetone was
used to remove the remaining old RTV, and all glass
surface were cleaned spotless before reassembly with
aquarium RTV around the edges. Of course, this was all
VERY VERY hazardous and no SANE person should EVER
even CONSIDER doing this (liability issues...).
I completely restored my 2644A including getting both
tape drives working, good matching paint, and I even
buffed the yellowing keys back to original condition
(very tedious work). But it is an amazing, cost is not
object machine. The switching power supply is crystal
controlled!!!
My tube didn't have very serious phosphor burns so I
felt that it was worth this effort.
If anyone wants the CRT box they can have it for the
cost of shipping. Hope I won't have to use it again!
You actually can buy NEW crt's like this one - for
$250!!! I also put new CRT's in my ADM-3a's (much
cheaper, around $45 shipped, as I recall).
Some details on the HP and ADM-3a CRT replacements are
at:
http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl
I've been working on 6120's, tiny paper tape readers
powered by laptop power supplies, and a Scelbi clone
capable of running SCELBAL (which I have resurrected).
=====
-Steve Loboyko
Incredible wisdom actually found in a commerical fortune cookie:
"When small men cast long shadows, then it is very late in the day."
Website: http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl
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