Hello all,
I just acquired a "PLI Infinity Optical Disk" which is actually a Sony SMO-C501-00 magneto optical drive. I believe the firmware is v2.13.
Does anyone know if I can make this drive work under Windows98se? I have no drivers. When I connect it to my SCSI card (Jaz Jet Ultra), it shows up on the SCSI chain. I have it set as device #4.
But when I insert a disk, it spins up, then down, then up, then down, etc. etc. etc.
There are a bunch of DIP switches on the back of the drive, between the SCSI ports. They are all set to "ON".
Any help would be appreciated.
--
Scott Orlowski
Elizabeth, PA
scotto(a)attbi.com
http://scotto.home.attbi.com
>I have a box of VMS 4.x and VMS 5.x magtape and standalone TU58s and
>RX50s. I want to create a CD-ROM that acts like a VMS 6.1 CD for
>installation under, say, simh. I know I can extract saveset files, etc.,
>to install VMS under simh. I want to package the savesets in a
>more modern fashion and save a step or two at install time.
I assume you have access to a VMS box that can read the
relevant media. If so you can create a container disk
using LDDRIVER (or one of the many other equivalent
freeware utilities). Then use VMSINSTAL to extract
the savesets (all the savesets) to [000000] on this disk.
You may or may not have to manually intervene since
VMSINSTAL depends on saveset naming conventions
that may not have been applied in the V4 days.
Assuming you fill in the blanks above, you will
end up with a bunch of valid savesets in [000000].
You can now use STABACKIT to make the
LD disk bootable into Standalone BACKUP.
(If you feel like it, you can put a complete
OpenVMS system on there ... you might
as well since your kits *must* reside in
[0,0] to work!!).
Now disconnect and dismount the LD disk
and burn the contianer file to CD as
a block-by-block binary (CDR-Win and
Gear can both do this, Easy CD cannot
AFAIK and Nero and Clone CD I have not
used enough to have a worthwhile opinion).
You can, assuming you are set up to do
this, burn directly from OpenVMS with
CDRECORD.
>Is this possible? I have a SCSI CD-R drive (Smart & Friendly 2006, a
>rebadged Sony 926) and SCSI magtape on an AXP/VMS box. I presume
>there is a version of cdrecord for VMS, or an equivalent. Is there an
>ODS-1 or OSD-2 equivalent of mkisofs for VMS? Does there have to be?
For the above method you do not need mkisofs since
you are building an ODS-2 disk. If, however, SIMH won't
accept an ODS-2 CDROM, you'll have to do a
binary FTP of the savesets to a PC and burn
>from there (although how SIMH can cope with
the result, I do not know) or pick up the
OpenVMS mkisofs (I have a pointer somewhere ...)
and use that directly.
Antonio
> I wanted to conduct some survey of the common practices (which
> may or may not be good practices) to powering your very own mini
> and maxi big iron in your home. I think this topic may be
Well, the biggest I've got in our apartment is my PDP-11/73, and a couple of
PDP-8's. They're small enough they plug into a normal wall socket. Oh,
there is also the VAX 3500, but I've not even plugged it in to see if it
works. Hmmm, then there is the really big 'computer', does a 4 slot Neo Geo
Arcade machine count as 'Big Iron' :^) Or is that 'Big Wood' :^)
However, in my folks garage I've got my PDP-11/44 with a pair of RL02's.
Since the system is supposed to have a 15A feed, my Dad built a 'extension'
cable that plugs into one of the sockets next to their washer & dryer (not
sure why they've a spare socket). It's been a few years since he built it,
however, I remember that he built it useing parts that were spec'd at 15+
amps. The only problem with this is you can't do laundry while the PDP-11
is running.
Now my question is, what are you doing about cooling? I know the /44 will
get my folks garage up to a comfortable temp fairly quickly in the winter,
and it can only be run in the morning in the summer.
Zane
>When I power up the system, with monitor attached, the internal cooling
>fan spins up, the hard drive spins up (and sounds normal), and the
>machine chimes what I seem to recall as being the regular start up sound
>for this era of Mac. However, the display remains dark. If I power off
>the Mac, leaving the monitor on, the monitor makes a light
>static/crackle noise; it's the sort of sound I normally associate with a
>monitor that's lost the video input signal. I've played with the
>brightness and contrast controls without any success.
Your start up bong should be a single smooth tone. If it is a "melody" of
any kind, it is not a startup bong, but rather chimes of doom. The melody
will tell you what may be the problem.
The first thing is to check the PRAM battery. Many Macs will not start
properly with a dead battery. If it is dead, Radio Shack stocks all 3
kinds used in Macs (but ironically, standard PC CMOS batteries are
special order). I don't recall if the Performa 47x used the square 4.5
volt, or the 1/2 AA 3.6 volt. I think it might be the 1/2 AA, but either
way, it will be pretty obvious when looking at the logic board.
Also, press the CUDA button on the logic board (again, I don't recall off
the top of my head if the 47x has one, but I think it does). This will be
a small red button on the logic board. I seem to recall on the 47x it was
either near the ports on the back of the board, or near the front by the
floppy and HD connections. But again, it might not be there at all.
The CUDA button will do a deep hardware reset, this will clear any
screwed up hardware settings it might have (and is usually recommended to
do after changing PRAM batteries, or adding or removing cards).
Finally, if none of that works, disconnect the HD and floppy. You should
get at the very least when no drives are connected, a grey screen with a
disk with flashing question mark.
If THAT doesn't work... do you have access to another Mac? Can you make a
known good bootable floppy disk? (you can download a 7.5 disk tools image
>from Apple's web site). Build a disk, and put it in the drive
(reconnected drive that is), and try to boot from it. If your system is
working, but the monitor is dead, you will head the Mac doing a bunch of
accessing of the floppy drive as it boots (They will boot fine with no
monitor attached).
But with all this, I suspect the problem will be a bad PRAM battery, or a
need to press the CUDA button.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Hello, all:
I'm starting a new project...an emulator for the Altair 680b. So,
I'm collecting random bits and pieces of code that I might need to implement
it.
What I'm looking for now is source code to read/write Motorola
S-records. There is a nice source code file that exists for reading/writing
Intel HEX files but I haven't been able to find a similar one for S-records.
Does anyone have such a thing?
Rich
==========================
Richard A. Cini, Jr.
Congress Financial Corporation
1133 Avenue of the Americas
30th Floor
New York, NY 10036
(212) 545-4402
(212) 840-6259 (facsimile)
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Hello guys,
this item is almost certainly not to be considered "classic" yet, but it
also isn't "leading edge" any more, is it? I'm asking here because even with
hours of googling, I wasn't able to find a pinout for the missing cable and I
figured that somebody on the list might have the thing and be willing to meter
it out for me. The installation procedure tells you to disconnect the monitor
>from your graphics card, connect it to the TV card and plug the loop cable
into the graphics and the TV card.
It is the exterior cable that I didn't get (DE15HD -> Mini-DIN-7); I have
the interior "feature connector" ribbon cable. If you could tell me which pins
to connect, I should be able to solder a replacement cable.
Many thanks in advance
Arno Kletzander
Arno_1983(a)gmx.de
--
GMX - Die Kommunikationsplattform im Internet.
http://www.gmx.net
Returned to my last gold mine in Topeka; Joe and I found some nice
stuff. With his sharp eyes he found more Amiga memory & SCSI cards for
me. He went home with some S100 memory cards, and a B&H (black) Apple
II. I came home with another C64, two 1541 drives, another Ozzie I with
modem, and miscellaneous Apple II cards and documentation.
Surplus Exchange(in the west Bottoms) had the goodies cordoned off; I
believe they are throwing out the vintage stuff and rearranging the
salable PC stuff.
Had a find time killing the day. My thanks to Joe and his sharp eyes;
what he found really made my day.
Gary Hildebrand
St. Joseph, MO
Hi
Look at the wiring. If it looks similar to what is on the other
25L6's, you should be OK. You should check the grid voltages
on all of these tubes. Incorrect bias can cause excess plate
disapation. This will shorten the tube life to minute/hours.
See below for pinout:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/scripts/showbase.dll?TYPE=25L6&BASE=7AC
later
Dwight
>From: "Sellam Ismail" <foo(a)siconic.com>
>
>
>So I'm off to look for a 25L6 tube for my IBM 026. John Lawson says that
>the tube is a 25L6 because all the other tubes in the rack are 25L6 types
>and he believes they are hammer drivers. Not to doubt the venerable
>Mr. Lawson, since he did used to service these, but I just want to make
>sure this is in fact the right tube type that goes into the socket that is
>currently empty. See photo here:
>
>http://www.vintage.org/gallery.php?title=IBM%20026%20Printing%20Card%20Card…
unch&grouptag=IBM026
>
>I'd hate to plug in the wrong tube and then witness volumnious
>amounts of smoke billow from within the machine. Can someone verify that
>the 25L6 is indeed the correct tube for the empty socket?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
>
> * Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *
>
>
>
Hi:
I think the subject of this message isn't quite 10
years old yet, thus the "OT".
I've got two IBM 4224-01 printers I recently acquired
>from a company going out of business. Both units
exhibit the same problem/symptom - when I power them
up, the LED display will flash, the fan just starts to
spin up, and then - nothing. It seems to die off
completely.
Since both are doing this I thought I'd ask the list
to see if there's something else I need. Both of
these have Twinax interfaces, which I'm not familiar
with at all - I've tried connecting a T-connector to
one of them to see if it's some sort of termination
problem, but see no difference in behavior.
My purpose in getting these is to resell them, so I'd
like to know if they work or not so I can price them.
Any help appreciated!
-- Frank
=====
= M O N T V A L E S O F T W A R E S E R V I C E S P. C.=
Clayton Frank Helvey, President
Montvale Software Services, P. C.
P.O. Box 840
Blue Ridge, VA 24064-0840
Phone: 540.947.5364 Email: msspcva(a)yahoo.com
============================================================
__________________________________________________
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Hello gents. Considering all of the old DEC equipment, and other old
hardware that is, and has been, in use here in my building, I'm fairly
positive this terminator falls in the 10-year rule...
I have here a terminator of some sort. It's a male 37 pin (DE37?),
the hood is black plastic, no identifying marks on it. Only " CONTACT
11.2964 075 " on the metal shroud that surrounds the pins.
Inside is one of those orange circuit sheets, with an blue rectangle
chip on it. The chip is marked...
14-3-
221/331
*B 8418
... there is 106027 on the end of the sheet, with REV. B on the side. The
logo on the sheet looks like a stylized MB. Here's what the pinout is...
Chip - Connector
1 - 21
2 - 20
3
4 - 16
5 - 14
6 - 13
7 - 1
8 - 29
9 - 22
10 - 23
11 - 24
12 - 25
13 - 26
14 - 27
Any ideas what it is, and what its for? Anyone?
--
--- David A Woyciesjes
--- C & IS Support Specialist
--- Yale University Press
--- (203) 432-0953
--- ICQ # - 905818
Mac OS X 10.1 - Darwin Kernel Version 5
Running since 01/22/2002 without a crash
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I just picked up an RS/6000 7012-320H this weekend from Sean Caron. It
seems complete, but I haven't tried to power it up yet. It's currently
keyless. How hard would it be to re-key it to use the key from my
7013-530? I've never tried such a thing. Anybody done it, or tried it?
Chad Fernandez
Michigan, USA
I got a few things today at Purdue Salvage: Copies of a few old copies of
Microsoft Windows on original disks (Windows 1.x, Windows 2.0, and
Windows/286 (2.1)), along with a copy of Microsoft Word 4.0 (for DOS).
Does anyone have interst in a having a copy of these? Also, is there a
chance that it'll catch me any money on [faint of heart turn away] eBay?
I don't have the boxes or manuals, but it looks like I have a complete set
of disks.
I also got a VT220 (no kb, unknown condition) so I can have another VAX
console to use...
Amazing what you can get for free, eh?
-- Pat
Actually, I'd prefer not to find a box included with
one of my discoveries... I have virtually no storage room left
for my systems, and cardboard boxes take up a _lot_ of
space. I would really prefer not to be put in the position
of throwing away something that I recognize might be of
some historical value, simply because I have to devote
my remaining space to systems, not packaging... (It
can definitely be a guilt trip ;-)
-al-
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christopher Smith [mailto:csmith@amdocs.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 3:06 PM
> To: 'cctalk(a)classiccmp.org'
> Subject: RE: The prices on ebay are going UP
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk [mailto:ard@p850ug1.demon.co.uk]
>
> > I don't get it either. I have no interest in cardboard boxes.
> > I _use_ my
> > classic computers, I don't keep them in boxes...
>
> Well, I agree, but I'll say that I find original boxes, which
> usually contain advertising material of the day, interesting
> in a historical side-note sort of context. Certainly not
> something to influence a purchase decision, but possibly an
> interesting bonus.
>
> Chris
>
>
> Christopher Smith, Perl Developer
> Amdocs - Champaign, IL
>
> /usr/bin/perl -e '
> print((~"\x95\xc4\xe3"^"Just Another Perl Hacker.")."\x08!\n");
> '
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk [mailto:ard@p850ug1.demon.co.uk]
> I don't get it either. I have no interest in cardboard boxes.
> I _use_ my
> classic computers, I don't keep them in boxes...
Well, I agree, but I'll say that I find original boxes, which
usually contain advertising material of the day, interesting
in a historical side-note sort of context. Certainly not
something to influence a purchase decision, but possibly an
interesting bonus.
Chris
Christopher Smith, Perl Developer
Amdocs - Champaign, IL
/usr/bin/perl -e '
print((~"\x95\xc4\xe3"^"Just Another Perl Hacker.")."\x08!\n");
'
Did everyone see the IBM 5100 that just sold for $5,656 item #2026242813
( what can I get for my two 5110's ?)and the Lisa I the sold for $10,000
item #2026966399. So one got me at the last minute on a Hasbo
Think-A-Tron in orig box went for only $38.50. I was out this morning
when it sold. Also a Mac 128k went for around $1250 and I'm setting on
about 10 of those things but not in the shape this one was. And Mr.
"aek" took me out on two mainframe books that I had the high bids on.
All-in-all a bad day on ebay for me (lost five and won 1).
I would like to set up an image of a CD in a hard disk file.
I understand that makeiso.exe does this in UNIX. Does
anyone have an executable version for Windows 98?
Sincerely yours,
Jerome Fine
--
If you attempted to send a reply and the original e-mail
address has been discontinued due a high volume of junk
e-mail, then the semi-permanent e-mail address can be
obtained by replacing the four characters preceding the
'at' with the four digits of the current year.
>Someone mentioned a CUDA switch on the motherboard for
>clearing the PRAM, but the closest thing I can find is an unidentified
>pair of jumper pins in rough proximity to the battery.
No the CUDA switch is a button. Don't go jumpering unknown wires (not
that you planned to I am sure). I just popped the top on an LC 2, no
switch. So there may not be one on the 476 either, I would verify, but
both my 475's are in use at another location.
>I tried the
>command-alt-p-r thing with the existing batteries without luck, but
>then there's no Alt key on this particular keyboard (Apple Keyboard II).
There is no ALT on the Mac. Some keyboards have "Alt" inked above
"Option" on the OPTION key, because Apple wanted compatibility with PCs,
but in all cases, it is "Option" when talking Mac-speak.
So you would press Command-Option-P-R. Hold these down right after
hearing the startup bong, and continue to hold them until you hear the
Mac bong again. It is recommended that you do this until it bongs 3 times
total (just keep holding them down). I don't know exactly why, but that
is what Apple's TIL suggests.
In the event you are doing this on a soft-power Mac, (and more
specifically a PowerBook), rather than going BONG and starting the boot
again, the Mac may go BONG and then turn off. That is normal behavior on
most PowerBooks most of the time, and occasionally on soft power Macs
(ones that don't have a physical power switch, but rather you have to use
the Power Key on the keyboard... the 476 is NOT one of them).
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Eek, does that mean that I shouldn't print out items? Hehe..
Will J
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
I dunno, I never really run into classic computer boxes, but then again,
since I care mostly about minis and larger, thats probably why.. Personally,
I use boxes to house manuals, sorted materials for recycling, and refuse
until I put it in the dumpster.
Will J
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
! From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk [mailto:ard@p850ug1.demon.co.uk]
!
! >
! >...
! >
! > I have here a terminator of some sort. It's a male 37
! pin (DE37?),
!
! DC37M. The Second letter is the shell size. Each shell size normally
! exists in a standard and high-density version :
Okay. Noted. And printed out & posted on my corkboard here, for
future reference... :)
!
! > ... The chip is marked...
! > 14-3-
! > 221/331
! > *B 8418
!
! Read the 221/331 as 22*10^1/33*10^1. In other words 220 ohms and 330
! ohms. A standard pair of values for a terminator circuit.
! > Any ideas what it is, and what its for? Anyone?
!
! No idea. Assuming the resistor network has power on the
! corner pins (1
! and 14) then it's only terminating 11 lines. There aren't
! many interfaces
! using 11 lines that need termination, are there?
Well, anyone's guess is better than mine...
--- David A Woyciesjes
--- C & IS Support Specialist
--- Yale University Press
--- (203) 432-0953
--- ICQ # - 905818
Mac OS X 10.1.2 - Darwin Kernel Version 5.2:
Running since 01/22/2002 without a crash
When powering on, the power LED flashes 10 times then a long flash, and
repeats. Nothing else plugged in, no floppy, keybaord, mouse or cards.
Anyone remember what that means???
Gary Hildebrand
St. Joseph, MO
My company is interested in purchasing working CSA
T805 transputer boards.
If you have some to sell, please email me.
Thanks,
Craig Christensen
Campbell Scientific, Inc
craig-c(a)campbellsci.com
My Kaypro 2'84 died.
I need a replacement as this was the only CP/M machine
for the display. A donation of a working 2'84 or 2x
would be greatly apreciated, after all it is going
towards education.
Thanks,
David G.
winnderfish_falls(a)yahoo.com
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In a message dated 6/1/02 11:28:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Andreas.Freiherr(a)vishay.com writes:
> All these boards (#1 Ethernet adapter, #2 motherboard, #2a/b
> daughterboards) have "Ungermann-Bass" printed on them, so I am sure who
> made them. Only the board with the 68000 CPU is obviously from somebody
> else
IIRC Ungerman Bass made repeaters and terminal concentrators also. Are there
any serial plugs on the large MB like cards? Some of the terminal
concentrator cards had 4 serial ports, some would take plug in cards at one
end, usually for an Ethernet card. They have a processor and are about the
original XT MB size. You could jumper some of the 4 serial port cards
together to form a stack of 8 ports, maybe more.
This stuff is old and probably only good for parts.
We bought a bunch of this in the early 1990s and sold it back to Ungerman
Bass because it was upgradable.
Paxton
Astoria, OR