test-drb

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

101090 discussions

micom 2000 pictures, etc.

by wh.sudbrink＠verizon.net

I've put up some pictures of the micom 2000: http://osi.webhop.net/ (follow the link from the main page) Be patient, the server is on a low end ADSL connection. If someone wants to copy these somewhere faster, please do. I'm going to keep it, so I need to move another system instead. I have a Commodore CBM 8032 with an 8050 dual 5 1/4" drive. Good cosmetic condition, unknown operational condition, no software, documentation or fuse holders. I'll put up some pictures tonight. It's a good bit lighter than the micom, but I would still prefer a local pick up if possible. Bill

23 years, 5 months

Dying VaxStation 4000 VLC - help?

by mtapley＠swri.edu

All, Help! My cute little Vax 4000 VLC appears to be dying on me. * Is there a service manual on-line for this machine? Any suggestions on where to get one? I want things like connector pinouts (to see if there's a power-fail line, or some such, and what it's expected to be), expected PS voltages, things like that. * Is there someone near San Antonio with a working VLC that they don't mind if I abuse for voltage measurements, etc? Description of failure: 1) last time I played with it several months ago, it failed to boot for a while with the VRC-16, LK-401, and mouse plugged into the graphics card (yes I had S3 set correctly, because it later booted that way). Problem went away, and I assumed there were intermittent problems with the graphics card. (I'd never seen this with a console plugged into the MMJ). 2) Yesterday, it booted and ran for 2-3 hours with the VRC and kb. I happily assumed the "graphics card problem" had cured itself. I logged in, registered my Hobbyist licence, and started doing same on another (Alpha) machine. After a while, my wife came in and started fooling with HELP on the VAX. She hit 4 returns in a row, and it went dead (screen black). Tried re-start, no-go. Got rid of the VRC-16 and LK-401, plugged in the VT-320, reset S3. It *tried* to boot, but failed. 3) now, left power-on, the 8 LED's are on most of the time. Occasionally, they will flash patterns, and the console will show the initial banner and start the memory test. *Very* occasionally, it'll get as far as the chevron. This morning, after being off all night, it got to the chevron, accepted the "b dka100" command, and got about half way through the boot - then the 8 LED's came on and it was back to ground zero. Tests run last night: Pulled one and then both banks of RAM - no change. Pulled the graphics card - no change. Disconnected power and SCSI cable to hard drive - no change. Reseated all (4) socketed chips (maybe ROM and the Dallas time module?) on the motherboard. - no change. Did some measurements (details available) that make me think that 12V is actually about 11.5V, and 5V is actually about 5.1V. Gotta confirm this, my only tool is an old Radio Shack Archerkit analog, and I want to try it on a known voltage source. Tried to turn on without PS connected to motherboard (accidentally). Green LED on power supply board flashes, PS board makes crowbarring kind of noice. (Green LED is otherwise on steady starting about 0.5 sec. after switch closes until switch open). In the above, "no change" means LED's stayed lit - I didn't run long enough in any of those configs to see if it'd try to boot after a while. Power supply appears to be a switcher - lots of heavy heat-sinks on transistors, lots of diodes, dozens of resistors. Multi-layer PC board. There are several electrolytic (I think - cans, black wrapping over a silver-looking can) caps, as well as some other types I don't recognize. System is in pretty clean condition; I did not take out the motherboard but cleaned the visible side of it with a brush and IPA. The only real dirt accumulation was near the fans. No change. I obviously had it fairly far apart last night, so I was extremely pleased to see it start to boot this morning - disassembly by me is usually the death of a system. This one is nice to work on, mechanically. But it's still not running. I'm on digest mode on the list, so I'll be slow at replying unless you hit me at mtapley(a)swri.edu. Even then, I'm having minor email issues so there's often a couple hour delay. But I'll sure appreciate any help! - Mark PS: On Friday, I said (WRT big auction of DEC parts)... >...I don't think I need any parts now. The irony is not lost but not particularly appreciated :-(. But the question is which parts.... I'm tempted to just haul off and order a new power supply - I'm pretty sure I can board-swap that without killing anything.

23 years, 5 months

Garage Sale updates

by jimw＠agora.rdrop.com

Greetings; After spending the last few (nearly 4) weeks sorting out the carnage from a Windoze induced system disaster... I'm getting back to being not significantly more behind than I was before the whole thing blew up in my face... Of course in the interim, I missed VCF 5 (snarkle, ramfle, mutter) and who knows what else... Most people who have claimed items from the Computer Garage 'Garage Sale' should have received them by now, thought the most recent three or four are still awaiting transport to the post. (my bad) And... still trying to remain above water, there are some new updates on the 'Garage Sale' page. http://www.rdrop.com/~jimw/Gsale And, since some of you have asked... There is also a link from the sale page to a 'State of the Garage' page, which attempts to detail the current state of affairs in my world. Note that I am still writing on this, so consider it to be in flux for the time being. Regards; -jim --- jimw(a)agora.rdrop.com The Computer Garage - http://www.rdrop.com/~jimw

23 years, 5 months

ASR33 Problems

by david_comley＠yahoo.com

>Hi >I think you need to make this point clearer. When a character >is punched, the same character is miss printed on the platen? >This is how I read his original post. Even using the REPT key to workaround the codebar issue, I wasn't able to connect the carriage problem conclusively to either a rotational or a vertical problem. I think at this point I'm going to take the carriage off again and try a more thorough dismantle/clean/oil. Once I resolve the codebar issue it will be easier to diagnose the carriage problem with a clean mechanism. >This tells me it is something sticking in the linkage that goes >between the code bars and the print head( or he has it installed >wrong but that doesn't explain why it starts working with repeats ). >I would remove the print assembly and put it in some solvent >while moving the levers. Then clean it off/dry it and re-oil >it. You most likely have some dry oil that is sluggish. Getting >oil into the right place will take a bit. >In the service( military ), we used to clean things in a bath >of water and heavy detergent. This was done in an ultrasonic >cleaner. We'd then rinse and bake it at about 150F for a few >hours. Then Re-oil/grease, place on test bench and fine adjust. >I suspect that a good dish washing liquid would work. I remember using an arklone bath at a place I worked years ago for cleaning circuit boards. Probably taken a few years off my live expectancy breathing that stuff in. > >Basically, there are 3 possible problem areas : > >1) The keyboard contacts are not closing correctly, so the parallel data >output of the keyboard is incorrect. > >2) The distributor disk (rear right of the typing unit) is not correctly >serialising the data from the keyboard. Unlikely, but possible. > >3) The selector unit (rear left of the typing unit) is malfunctioning, >and is not correclty responding the receiving magnet. > I can see the armature 'stutter' when I punch the rubout key - by stutter, I mean that its movement looks slightly different between keypresses. So I'm inclined to think that the magnet is just responding to what it is receiving which is incorrect. I cleaned the distributor and reseated the brushes, readjusted the brush holder to the alignment mark per the adjustment procedure in the manual. So I'm back to option 1) - the keyboard - as the source of the problem. One thing I noticed last night was that the keyboard cover is broken. There are four round tabs, one at each corner, that fit into corresponding holes on the end plates. These are broken, so the cover can rock from side to side, pivoting on those center projections. I wonder if that could cause some sort of alignment problem within the keyboard ? Thanks for the suggestions - I will get to it again tonight and see what else I can find out. I hate the idea of opening that keyboard up... Dave __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos http://launch.yahoo.com/u2

23 years, 5 months

ASR33 Problems

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk > >> >> Any Teletype ASR33 experts out there ? I have a couple >> of problems with a teletype that recently came my way. > >I believe the ASR33 manauls are available on a web site somewhere. If >you don't have them as printed books, then you want to get these files >and print them. They make life a lot easier. OK, I did a complete >strip-down, clean, oil, reassemble and adjust job on an ASR33 without the >manuals (and with never having seen the manuals), but then I tend to do >crazy things like that... > >> >> i) When I type a character from the keyboard in local >> mode, something else gets printed. What gets printed >> is not consistently the same character. I've watched >> the selector mechanism while I hit rubout (all marking >> codebars) and I can see that the codebars are not >> being consistently selected betwee key presses: >> sometimes I get 5 of them, sometimes 6 and >> occasionally all 8. The high order bits seem to be >> worst affected by this inconsistency. However if I >> hold down the repeat key and select a character, the >> right codebars are being selected. I punched a number >> of characters onto tape to verify this and they seem >> to be punching OK. This suggests to me that this isn't > >If the character _always_ punches correctly, then the right codebars are >being selected. So I assume this is not the case. Hi I think you need to make this point clearer. When a character is punched, the same character is miss printed on the platen? This is how I read his original post. This tells me it is something sticking in the linkage that goes between the code bars and the print head( or he has it installed wrong but that doesn't explain why it starts working with repeats ). I would remove the print assembly and put it in some solvent while moving the levers. Then clean it off/dry it and re-oil it. You most likely have some dry oil that is sluggish. Getting oil into the right place will take a bit. In the service( military ), we used to clean things in a bath of water and heavy detergent. This was done in an ultrasonic cleaner. We'd then rinse and bake it at about 150F for a few hours. Then Re-oil/grease, place on test bench and fine adjust. I suspect that a good dish washing liquid would work. You can find manuals at: http://www.pdp8.net/pdp8cgi/query_docs/query.pl?Search=teletype&stype=Parti… rd&fields=id%2Ctitle%2Cdate&debug=0&table=pdp8docs&orderby=sort%2Ctitle You'll need to paste it back together after the mail chops it. Dwight > >Basically, there are 3 possible problem areas : > >1) The keyboard contacts are not closing correctly, so the parallel data >output of the keyboard is incorrect. > >2) The distributor disk (rear right of the typing unit) is not correctly >serialising the data from the keyboard. Unlikely, but possible. > >3) The selector unit (rear left of the typing unit) is malfunctioning, >and is not correclty responding the receiving magnet. > >I would check (3) first. It may need to be removed, dismantled, cleaned, >and re-lubricated. It's not uncommon for parts to stick on old, gummy, >lubricant. > >> an electrical problem since whatever code the keyboard >> is sending is eventually being sensed correctly. >> >> ii) In addition to i) above, even if I do get all the >> codebars moving as required, the wrong characters are >> being printed. I removed the carriage, cleaned and >> oiled it and replaced it but this hasn't helped. > >How did you clean it? I have found that soaking compete assemblies in >solvent doesn't help much. You really have to take all the parts apart, >clean them, and then re-assemble them. If yoy've done this, then there >are a lot of sdjustment you'd have to set up. > >A character decoding problem must be in the carriage. There are 4 parts >to the decoder mechanism : > >2 bits -> one of 4 levels of lift of the type cylinder >1 bit -) rotate cylinder left or right >2 bits -> one of 4 angles (pairs of characters) of rotation of the cylinder >1 bit -> an extra 1 character angle rotate (it moves the selector bars >for the previous rotation selection slightly...). > >Figure out which mechanism is malfunctioning by comparing the position of >the character you get with the position of the character you should be >getting. Then work out what's not operating properly. > >-tony > >

23 years, 5 months

Chip with holes in it

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

Hi The holes are just for automatic handling. It is so the robots that place the die, bonds the wires, places the lid and test the part know where pin 1 is. Dwight >From: "Benedict Bridgewater" <benb(a)Basit.COM> > >I'm curious if anyone can ID this chip on eBay: > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2070850586&rd=1 > >Does anyone know what the purpose/function of the holes in it are?! > >Ben > >

23 years, 5 months

ASR33 Problems

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "David Comley" <david_comley(a)yahoo.com> > >>Hi >>I think you need to make this point clearer. When a >character >>is punched, the same character is miss printed on the >platen? >>This is how I read his original post. > >Even using the REPT key to workaround the codebar >issue, I wasn't able to connect the carriage problem >conclusively to either a rotational or a vertical >problem. I think at this point I'm going to take the >carriage off again and try a more thorough >dismantle/clean/oil. Once I resolve the codebar issue >it will be easier to diagnose the carriage problem >with a clean mechanism. > >>This tells me it is something sticking in the linkage >that goes >>between the code bars and the print head( or he has >it installed >>wrong but that doesn't explain why it starts working >with repeats ). >>I would remove the print assembly and put it in some >solvent >>while moving the levers. Then clean it off/dry it and >re-oil >>it. You most likely have some dry oil that is >sluggish. Getting >>oil into the right place will take a bit. >>In the service( military ), we used to clean things >in a bath >>of water and heavy detergent. This was done in an >ultrasonic >>cleaner. We'd then rinse and bake it at about 150F >for a few >>hours. Then Re-oil/grease, place on test bench and >fine adjust. >>I suspect that a good dish washing liquid would work. > >I remember using an arklone bath at a place I worked >years ago for cleaning circuit boards. Probably taken >a few years off my live expectancy breathing that >stuff in. > >> >>Basically, there are 3 possible problem areas : >> >>1) The keyboard contacts are not closing correctly, >so the parallel data >>output of the keyboard is incorrect. >> >>2) The distributor disk (rear right of the typing >unit) is not correctly >>serialising the data from the keyboard. Unlikely, but >possible. >> >>3) The selector unit (rear left of the typing unit) >is malfunctioning, >>and is not correclty responding the receiving magnet. >> > >I can see the armature 'stutter' when I punch the >rubout key - by stutter, I mean that its movement >looks slightly different between keypresses. So I'm >inclined to think that the magnet is just responding Hi You haven't made it clear about punching. Does it work correctly when you use the punch?? If it does, it can't be the keyboard, distributor or codebars. All of these must work to have the punch work correctly. The punch is mechanically connected to the code bars of the printer. >to what it is receiving which is incorrect. I cleaned >the distributor and reseated the brushes, readjusted >the brush holder to the alignment mark per the >adjustment procedure in the manual. So I'm back to >option 1) - the keyboard - as the source of the >problem. One thing I noticed last night was that the >keyboard cover is broken. There are four round tabs, >one at each corner, that fit into corresponding holes >on the end plates. These are broken, so the cover can >rock from side to side, pivoting on those center >projections. I wonder if that could cause some sort of >alignment problem within the keyboard ? I'd think it would have to shift quite a bit to fail. It would be more likely that the switch contacts( at the right side of the keyboard ) might be dirty. For the pegs, one can drill the plastic and use some dowel rod( wood or plastic ) from the hobby shop to replace the alignment pegs. Since this had a punch on it, it most likely has a lot of chad stuck on things that can gum things up. > >Thanks for the suggestions - I will get to it again >tonight and see what else I can find out. I hate the >idea of opening that keyboard up... As I stated earlier( in this group ), you can disconnect the power from the motor and run things slowly to see what is missing. You just have to manually lock up the clutches since it isn't spinning fast enough to lock them with inertia. Dwight > >Dave > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos >http://launch.yahoo.com/u2 >

23 years, 5 months

Putting PDP11/44 on the net...?

by jpl15＠panix.com

Since I'm (mostly to very dumb) when it comes to these things - I would like to ask for opinions/advice/recommendations from the List on what the best way would be to attach one of the terminal ports on the machine to the Net, to allow folks to telnet in and play with the system remotely. I was thinking phone-line -> modem-> Net-to-serial-box-> 11/44 port. There are 30 ports, all will run at least 9600, and I do have a registered and hosted (though inactive) domain name... not that the two would be related. This would of course be for during the periods that the system was on... and I sure as Hell am *not* considering leaving 'er up 24/7... electricity, noise, hAxOrZ (in that order) would deter that. Might be fun to have a mirrored emulator tho... Anyway - those of you who are smart in this area: how owuld you do this? Cheers John

23 years, 5 months

Dying VaxStation 4000 VLC - help?

by allain＠panix.com

email recall.... > I'm tempted to just haul off and order a new > power supply - I'm pretty sure I can board-swap > that without killing anything. Get the PSU part number and I'll look it up, or check: http://pages.prodigy.net/ppsjm/PART%20NUMBER.htm John A.

23 years, 5 months

DECmate III video too wide for the monitor?

by drido＠optushome.com.au

I've made an adapter to connect a DECmate III to a standard composite monitor (using the details posted here, thanks), but I haven't been able to get any of my monitors to work properly with it. On every monitor I've tried so far the one or both sides of the picture stretch off the screen and the h-pos/h-width controls do not provide enough adjustment to correct it. Is there a fix for this? Any suggestions of monitors that will work other than a VR201 (old mono monitors are getting hard to find around here, let alone a VR201).

23 years, 5 months

hp 85

by emu＠ecubics.com

Anybody out here likes to get rid of one ? Would be interested in a working/nice model. Looks like the discussion of the HP calculators got me into that ;-) cheers

23 years, 5 months

Looking for RL02 prints and maint docs

by Qstieee＠aol.com

Suggest you contact trestivo(a)concentric.net

23 years, 5 months

Looking for RL02 prints and maint docs

by Antonio.Carlini＠riverstonenet.com

>attempt to power them up... does anyone have any points to a print-set >and maintenance data for these drives? Any experiences people have had You can find RL02 stuff at: http://www.mainecoon.com/classiccmp/ Antonio

23 years, 5 months

Longevity of CD-R (was RE: Preserving Newspaper.)

by healyzh＠aracnet.com

> Zane wrote: > > It's supposed to be able to play VCD's, I've tried CD-RW and neither it > > or my old Sony DVD player would read them. > > There's a huge difference between a DVD player being able to play stamped > VCDs, and being able to play CD-R. Stamped discs can be read with the > red laser used for DVDs, but CD-R must be read with an IR laser. Many > DVD players only have the red laser. Ah. Any idea what type laser is needed for DVD-R then? > You didn't say how old your Sony DVD player is. Their first generation > players, the DVP-S7000 and DVP-S3000, have two lasers and can read CD-R. > I've never tried CD-RW in my DVP-S7000, though. I really had to think about how old it is! I got it about four years ago, though the model had been out for a while. IIRC, it was a midrange model, and I think it was one of the second generation players (I'd have had a first generation player, IF, they'd brought out the Star Wars Trilogy). Zane

23 years, 5 months

Apple /// ProFile drivers

by classiccmp＠vintage-computer.com

Does anyone have the drivers for an Apple /// ProFile Hard Disk subsystem? I've had no luck finding these on the net. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Erik S. Klein

23 years, 5 months

ASR33 Problems

by david_comley＠yahoo.com

Any Teletype ASR33 experts out there ? I have a couple of problems with a teletype that recently came my way. i) When I type a character from the keyboard in local mode, something else gets printed. What gets printed is not consistently the same character. I've watched the selector mechanism while I hit rubout (all marking codebars) and I can see that the codebars are not being consistently selected betwee key presses: sometimes I get 5 of them, sometimes 6 and occasionally all 8. The high order bits seem to be worst affected by this inconsistency. However if I hold down the repeat key and select a character, the right codebars are being selected. I punched a number of characters onto tape to verify this and they seem to be punching OK. This suggests to me that this isn't an electrical problem since whatever code the keyboard is sending is eventually being sensed correctly. ii) In addition to i) above, even if I do get all the codebars moving as required, the wrong characters are being printed. I removed the carriage, cleaned and oiled it and replaced it but this hasn't helped. Any suggestions ? Are there any other diagnostic procedures I can apply to figure out what's happening here ? Right now the unit is not interfaced to anything so any testing needs to be standalone. Thanks, Dave __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos http://launch.yahoo.com/u2

23 years, 5 months

Epson HX-20 repair details - more info

by M.Clemence＠exeter.ac.uk

> > >Here, basically, is how the power switch should turn on the PSU. > >Turning on the power switch on the keyboard assembly brings pin 4 of IC >5D low. Thus pin 6 goes high (check both of these). >Pin 6 of IC 5D is connected to pin 9 of the same chip. Pin 10 (other >input of that gate) should also be high -- it comes from IC2B in the >power supply area, and shuts the machine down if the battery is too low >(I think). >So pin 8 of IC5D goes low. This is connected to pin 4 of IC5F. The >output, pin 4, of this gate therefore goes high. This brings pin 2 of >IC7E high, which makes pin 15 low, turning on Q8. > >I would now check all the pins I've mentioned. Something must be wrong in >that area. > > > >>> >>> As an aside, for those who maybe wondering why I'm bothering - I work at >> >> > >That question never occurred to me. The HX20 is a computer, so of course >it should be repaired. > > > >>> If any one would be willing to supply photocopies of the relevant bits >>> of the manual (schematic in >>> particular) I would of course pay towards copying/postage/time. >> >> > >I will see what I can do... > Thanks for the above information - I have only just had chance to act on it so here goes. If I am reading the board correctly IC5D is a 4000 CMOS 2x3 input nor and a not gate. Checking round the pins, the inputs and outputs are logically consistent but pin 4 does not go low when the switch is turned on. Suggesting that some thing is wrong else where on the keyboard board perhaps. ( Also if it is a 4000, then pin 9 and 10 are on separate gates which doesn't agree with the above - maybe you could confirm that it is a 4000 ) However, the power supply voltage to the CMOS chips is very low - bewteen 2.9 and 3.2 depending upon how long it has been plugged in which is right at the low end of the operating range. Unless I am mistaken the supply for a whole set of chips (presumably those that run all the time even when the machine is "off") is provided by Q10. If this is so, Q10 has 4.9V on the C (presumably the main supply) and 3.3 V on the base but only 2.9 V on the emitter which seems to be the chip supply. Is this inference correct and if so are the voltages right ? Again, thanks for all your help, Matthew Clemence

23 years, 5 months

calculators, was: Re: Best Find of the Weekend!

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

Hi At the time I bought it, I believe I checked on this and to break the rule, the numbers did correspond on many of the relabeled Sharp calculators. I'll have to admit, I never saw the matching Sharp for this calculator but I had seen others that RS sold and the only difference was the EC was changed from EL. The numbers were the same. Dwight >From: "Eric Smith" <eric(a)brouhaha.com> > >Dwight wrote: >> It is a radio shack model EC-4024 which I assume >> is a relabeled Sharp EL-4024. I've been watching and >> there just isn't anything like this in the stores. > >Typically Radio Shack model numbers do NOT correspond to the >original manufacturer model numbers. At the moment, I can't >think of any I've seen that actually did correspond, but >perhaps there were some. > > > > >

23 years, 5 months

calculators, was: Re: Best Find of the Weekend!

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Dan Veeneman" <dan(a)ekoan.com> > >At 08:31 PM 11/9/02 +0100, you wrote: >>My own favorite (otehr than my HP-16 ;-) is a CASIO CM-100 "computer math >>calc". > >I too prefer the HP-16C, but the CM-100 is a nice design. I have a photo >of one >up on my Casio calculator page, http://www.decodesystems.com/casiocalcs.html > >A very similar discussion of hex-capable calculators occurred recently on >Slashdot, along with a link to my page. As is to be expected, ClassicCmpers >covered the same ground much more quickly. :-) > >>The nice thing is they have no batteries, just a "solar panel" and do not >>seem to need much light to function properly. > >The CM-100 functions very well in surprisingly low light. However, when I >need to >do hex conversions (which I did for a while in developing code for a >Motorola OnCore >GPS chipset), I prefer the HP-16C. > > Hi I have a pocket calculator that I would love to replace with a newer one ( because this one is dying ). It is a mix of solar/battery or one can use it in low light as well. I've replaced the battery twice since I've owned it. It doe very convenient Dec/Hex/Binary/Octal conversions as well. It doesn't seem that these types are being made anymore. It is a radio shack model EC-4024 which I assume is a relabeled Sharp EL-4024. I've been watching and there just isn't anything like this in the stores. Dwight

23 years, 5 months

Longevity of CD-R (was RE: Preserving Newspaper.)

by cb＠mythtech.net

>Trying to use CD-RW is asking for trouble. They have a lower contrast >ratio than CD-R, so even DVD players that can handle CD-R may not be >able to handle CD-RW. You would think, but from what I found when researching why mine couldn't play CD-Rs, it is actually VERY common for a DVD Player to fail to play CD-Rs, but plays a CD-RW just fine. So common, that apparently, it is the norm for a DVD Player that can play home brew VCD's will only work with CD-RW, unless is specifically mentions that it works with CD-R. At least this was true a few years ago when I was looking for info. And beyond research, in my informal polling of friends and their DVD players (mix of old and new models)... I found the fact holds true. Out of about a dozen DVD players I have ready access to (ie: I can go to someone's house, and try a disc). One could not play any kind of VCD. Of those that could, I think there were 3 that only played commercial stamped VCDs, the rest could play home brew VCDs. In all cases where they could play home brew VCDs, all could play CD-RW, and 2 could play CD-Rs. The two that could play CD-Rs both specifically mentioned that they handled CD-R media. One was a multi-format, multi-region unit, and the other was a brand new one that even did MP3 audio CDs (which was kind of cool). And interestingly with one player, it had problems playing discs created by my computer, but no problems with one created with my VCD burner (it could play either, but the computer made one wasn't recognized every time... sometimes you had to eject the disc, and reinsert it a few times before the DVD player would accept the disc). -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

23 years, 5 months

Signetics 2650

by drido＠optushome.com.au

>On Sat, 9 Nov 2002, Dr. Ido wrote: > >> Several old games systems used the 2650 and it's related display chips 2636 >> and 2637: >> >> The Emerson Arcadia 2001 (and it's many clones by Sheen, Hanimex and others) >> The Radofin 1292/1392 (and it's many clones by Fountain, Grandstand, >> Hanimex and others) >> >> If you just need some 2650 CPUs you could remove them from these consoles. > >Except that those consoles are not like the Atari 2600, i.e. they are >scarce. Arcadia 2001 systems go for at least $50 on eBay. I've seen the genuine Arcadia 2001 get high prices, but clones can be cheaper. Sometimes they are not listed as Arcadia 2001, the carts are not interchangable and they look totally different. The radofin consoles don't seem to attract the same interest, one I sold went for around AU$40 and that was with a stack of boxed games.

23 years, 5 months

DECmate & DECstation video port pinouts?

by drido＠optushome.com.au

At 07:17 PM 11/8/02 EST, you wrote: >On Sat, 09 Nov 2002 (downunder time); you posted to classiccmp: > >> I've picked up a DECmate III and a DECstation 3100 that I'd like to get >> running, but I don't have monitors for either. > >> Does anybody have the pinouts for the video ports so I can make up some >> adapters? > >I can help with the DECstation 3100. I am going to paste several files to >the end of this and that should provide you with some info to get started. > >I noticed the 'optus' in your email address. Out of curiosity, do you work >for Optus or is that just your ISP? I ask as I made two trips to Australia >to conduct training classes at Optus. It so happens they were using DEC >equipment for what I was dealing with. > >Hope this helps, Thanks, should have at least one monitor here that will handle once I make up a cable. Optus is only my ISP, I don't work for them. I guess they could use some more training though, with what they consider "service" at times.

23 years, 5 months

DECmate & DECstation video port pinouts?

by drido＠optushome.com.au

I've picked up a DECmate III and a DECstation 3100 that I'd like to get running, but I don't have monitors for either. Does anybody have the pinouts for the video ports so I can make up some adapters?

23 years, 5 months

Longevity of CD-R (was RE: Preserving Newspaper.)

by cb＠mythtech.net

>I've used both brands without any problem for Data, Music, and VCD. >Although when using them for VCD I can't get either brand to play in our >good JVC progressive scan DVD player :^( This may be a DVD Player issue. I'm assuming that your DVD Player plays Video-CD's in the first place. If so, try using a CD-RW disc (if your burner supports them). I have a Toshiba DVD Player that plays commercial VCD's, or any that I make as long as I use a CD-RW disc. This is apparently not uncommon. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

23 years, 5 months

FW: Huge lot of DEC parts on E-pay

by Antonio.Carlini＠riverstonenet.com

The auction now has a part list attached (I've not followed this thread too closely, so sorry if it's been mentioned before). >BTW if anyone knows of a decent NN-NNNNN-NN style >part number look up utility or website, let me know. I picked a few of the larger quantity part numbers and threw them into google. The first hit was a large list (or set of lists) of DEC part numbers. All the ones I looked at (1000+ off items) were lamps or cables. The number of actual boards may not be that much. It's possible that some of the part numbers were complete systems or large subassemblies, but I must admit my brief scan through left me somewhat unimpressed (given the $3500 reserve!) But don't let me put anyone off ... there are plenty of parts to check out! Antonio

23 years, 5 months

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