test-drb

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

101090 discussions

by fmc＠reanimators.org

"Bill Sudbrink" <wh.sudbrink(a)verizon.net> wrote: > In high school, we used what I think was called _The_FORTRAN_Coloring_Book_ > (wasn't that what it was called Frank?). That's not the same thing is it? No, that's a different book from _FORTRAN For Humans_. Funny, I only remember boring data processing text books, like the one that told us how to use a keypunch and how to interpret punched cards, an important skill when I got to U of Maryland and found that the 029 keypunches in the basement of the CS building often did not have fresh ribbons. (Bill and I attended the same high school, where there was an HP 3000 Series II (upgraded to a Series III in 1980 I think) for administrative and academic use.) But then I might not have paid a FORTRAN text much attention, having picked that up when we were supposed to be learning BASIC and being more interested at that time in SPL/3000. -Frank McConnell

23 years, 4 months

Settings for MSV11-Q

by dundas＠its.caltech.edu

>>John Dundas wrote: > >> Anyone have the jumper settings for a 4MB MSV11-QC (M7551-CF) memory >> board for a PDP-11? I just got one, but don't know how the DIP >> switches and jumpers should be set. A PDF of the User Guide would be >> even better, but help or pointers with the jumpers/switches would be >> great. > >Jerome Fine replies: > >In general, there should never be a reason to alter the >jumpers. Since 4 MBytes is the maximum allowed for >the PDP-11, the hardware would almost always be set >to use all of the memory. There is probably a bank of >jumpers for the starting address and a second for the >ending address. The starting address will probably be >empty - for zero. The ending address could be full or >empty. I suggest that if you can't find a manual for the >settings to just use the board as is. 99.9% of the time, >I would expect the setting to reflect use of all of the >memory - if that is what you wish - and I can't really >understand any other option for 99.9% of the cases. Based on the MicroNotes, I believe you are correct that the switches are used to control the starting and ending addresses. The board, as received, is set to all zero for both. The MicroNote _seems_ to indicate that the ending address should be set to all 1s. However I'm wondering if I really need to set the ending address to 4MB - 8KB (for the I/O page)? Also, there are quite a few jumpers on the board. They may or may not be set appropriately. The MicroNote indicates the function of a few of them, but not nearly all. For example, permit "write wrong parity", etc. If anyone has a copy or scan of the original manual, I'd very much appreciate it. Thanks, John

23 years, 4 months

Spamproofing the Archives

by classiccmp＠crash.com

> That's the point that spammers would attack, if they could be > bothered to try. I'm sortof wondering what archive sites like the Wayback Machine are doing to prevent address harvesting, if anything. Seems like exactly the sort of thing that would be worth some effort prying open... > Make damn sure that whatever CGI script you use defends against > any characters in the email form being interpreted as any sort > of metacharacters. Can't stress this point enough. Limiting length is good too, look to RFCs for figures. I'd also submit any message via a TCP connection rather than invoking anything from the script, e.g. `sendmail -bs`. I can give you a simple example using Perl if you need it. Hmm, do I have any links/guides for safe web form handling... ? --S.

23 years, 4 months

Fortran for Humans Book?

by jss＠subatomix.com

Did anyone here learn Fortran from, or just read, any book called "Fortran for Humans" or "Fortran 77 for Humans"? I just found out: The CS prof I've been spending so much time with for the last two years, Rex Page, was the principal author of this book. If anyone has memories of it (good or bad :-), I bet he would get a kick out of hearing about it at our next meeting. -- Jeffrey Sharp

23 years, 4 months

Spamproofing the Archives

by jss＠subatomix.com

Current idea on spamproofing the archives: [0] Every email address in the archives is replaced with a shortened form. For instance: user(a)domain.com -> user@d... [1] The shortened address is link to a CGI script like this: http://www.subatomix.com/cgi-bin/email?asf3uhh0239q0bs The script generates a page that asks the user to type in a specific string to prove they're human. The query string above is the email address with some some simple sort of encryption. [2] The user types in the string and presses Submit, and it runs the CGI again, but with the typed string as part of the query string: http://www.subatomix.com/cgi-bin/email?asf3uhh0239q0bs,abbabdedf Now the script generates a page with the real email address as a mailto hyperlink. The user may bookmark this page if he/she wishes. Surely this is enough to defeat address harvesters. Does anyone see any problems with this? -- Jeffrey Sharp

23 years, 4 months

Computer Garage Sale M868 Dectape Controller

by cmcnabb＠4mcnabb.net

Jim, The M868 Dectape controller arrived today, and has already surpassed the usability of the other one I have - it doesn't keep the machine from running! Now I can get to the business of getting the TU-56 completely operational. Thanks! -- Christopher L McNabb Operating Systems Analyst Email: cmcnabb(a)4mcnabb.net Virginia Tech ICBM: 37.1356N 80.4272N GMRS: WPSR255 ARS: N2UX Grid Sq: EM97SD

23 years, 4 months

Settings for MSV11-Q

by dundas＠its.caltech.edu

Anyone have the jumper settings for a 4MB MSV11-QC (M7551-CF) memory board for a PDP-11? I just got one, but don't know how the DIP switches and jumpers should be set. A PDF of the User Guide would be even better, but help or pointers with the jumpers/switches would be great. Thanks, John

23 years, 4 months

Getting C64 disk images

by rhudson＠cnonline.net

How do I get disk images for my C64 from the internet? Following equipment available: Apple ibook usb-> serial port usb 3 1/4 diskette drive commodore 64 1541 disk drive Is there a community of people sharing disks? Preferably physical disks, perhaps via post (snailmail)? Company that sells old commodore software? Thanks... ron.

23 years, 4 months

Wire wrapping

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com> > >On Fri, 2002-12-06 at 18:31, Dwight K. Elvey wrote: >> Hi Jeff >> This is a manual tool and takes a little practice. >> You need to first start by stripping about .75 to 1 inch of >> insulation from the end of the wire. There is a built > >Thanks to everyone who provided links. After a few tries I've got it >figured out =). > >I ordered a roll of wire which has a built-in stripper which makes nice >1" cuts. Pretty easy process, but I find the slit in the tool to be >annoying, as the wire would continually get caught in it. What is the >purpose of this? I assume it's to allow you to remove broken wire from >the tool easily? I just kept a finger over the slit and eventually was >able to get some good wraps. > >If I had to do this more often I would probably spring for a better >tool, but for a once (or twice-off) this seems to do the job. > >Thanks! >Jeff Hi Like any skill, it takes practice. You want to feed the free end of the wire through the side that doesn't have the stripper on it. You then push the wire into the groove with a finger nail. If done correctly, you won't have a bend in the wire at the stripper and the wire will not break when you strip it. You'll find that the spool/stripper unit have the same problem. The only strippers I've ever found that worked well on wire wrap were those ones that looked like small pliers and had white plastic shells that would guide the wire onto stripper blades. I'm not sure who sells these as they were units I picked up at a surplus store. As for power wrappers. These require some skill to use as well. With these, one can make a larger mess quicker than using a manual tool. It is all about practice and timing. I've used professional electric and air powered wrapping tools. I also have one of those cheap battery powered ones at home. With a little practice, I find that I can do just as good a job with any of them. I've done larger projects. One needs to plan out the flow of how you are going to place the wires. Two level wire wrapping takes planning. Three level is a little more forgiving but it is easy to bend the pins and cause shorts. Dwight > > >> in stripper. Look at the spring steel part in the center >> of the tool. It has a slit in it that you slide the >> wire in and then pull the wire from the other side. >> Now that you have the end, thread the wire from the >> end, under the small sleeve and along the groove at the >> side of the shaft. It doesn't have to stay in the groove >> but make sure it doesn't get kinked or bent badly. >> Slide the tool and wire over a wire wrap post. Place >> your index finger at the unwrapper end and twizzle the >> tool clockwise. This is the tricky part. You need to >> put enough pressure with your index finger so that >> there are no opening between wraps but not too much >> or you'll get overlapped wraps. I also find that the >> first turn of the tool should have no pressure until >> the wire has one start wrap. You will also find >> that you won't be able to twizzle it to completion >> as one motion. You need to make sure that it doesn't >> back rotate as you go for another grab with your >> fingers ( this is where another hand comes in handy ). >> If you get an opening between wraps, don't think you >> can just squeeze it down to until it looks OK. This >> make a loose wrap that will have poor electrical connection. >> Overlapped wraps should be redone as well. >> Now, go and practice. You'll get the hang of it soon >> enough. >> Dwight >> >> >> > > >

23 years, 4 months

Morrow Designs external 8" floppy drive?

by rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com

Does anyone know what system these are for? I've never heard of one before. I had a MD-2 and it used 5 1/4" drives. This is in a biege case about 8" tall x 6" wide x 20" deep. It has ribbon cable header (50 pin?) on the back along with an AC socket and power switch, the drive appears to be a FH Shugart. Joe

23 years, 4 months

Wire wrapping

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

Hi I forgot to mention. Use a good sharp pair of wire cutters. If you use some of the cheaper diagonals, they flatten the wire, rather then cutting it. This makes the job of stripping much harder since the covering doesn't slide off easily. Just more of wire wrap lore. Dwight >From: "Dwight K. Elvey" <dwightk.elvey(a)amd.com> > >>From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com> >> >>On Fri, 2002-12-06 at 18:31, Dwight K. Elvey wrote: >>> Hi Jeff >>> This is a manual tool and takes a little practice. >>> You need to first start by stripping about .75 to 1 inch of >>> insulation from the end of the wire. There is a built >> >>Thanks to everyone who provided links. After a few tries I've got it >>figured out =). >> >>I ordered a roll of wire which has a built-in stripper which makes nice >>1" cuts. Pretty easy process, but I find the slit in the tool to be >>annoying, as the wire would continually get caught in it. What is the >>purpose of this? I assume it's to allow you to remove broken wire from >>the tool easily? I just kept a finger over the slit and eventually was >>able to get some good wraps. >> >>If I had to do this more often I would probably spring for a better >>tool, but for a once (or twice-off) this seems to do the job. >> >>Thanks! >>Jeff > >Hi > Like any skill, it takes practice. You want to feed the >free end of the wire through the side that doesn't have >the stripper on it. You then push the wire into the >groove with a finger nail. If done correctly, you won't >have a bend in the wire at the stripper and the wire >will not break when you strip it. > You'll find that the spool/stripper unit have the same >problem. The only strippers I've ever found that worked >well on wire wrap were those ones that looked like >small pliers and had white plastic shells that would >guide the wire onto stripper blades. I'm not sure who >sells these as they were units I picked up at a surplus >store. > As for power wrappers. These require some skill to use >as well. With these, one can make a larger mess quicker >than using a manual tool. It is all about practice and >timing. I've used professional electric and air powered >wrapping tools. I also have one of those cheap battery >powered ones at home. With a little practice, I find >that I can do just as good a job with any of them. > I've done larger projects. One needs to plan out the >flow of how you are going to place the wires. Two level >wire wrapping takes planning. Three level is a little >more forgiving but it is easy to bend the pins and cause >shorts. >Dwight > > >> >> >>> in stripper. Look at the spring steel part in the center >>> of the tool. It has a slit in it that you slide the >>> wire in and then pull the wire from the other side. >>> Now that you have the end, thread the wire from the >>> end, under the small sleeve and along the groove at the >>> side of the shaft. It doesn't have to stay in the groove >>> but make sure it doesn't get kinked or bent badly. >>> Slide the tool and wire over a wire wrap post. Place >>> your index finger at the unwrapper end and twizzle the >>> tool clockwise. This is the tricky part. You need to >>> put enough pressure with your index finger so that >>> there are no opening between wraps but not too much >>> or you'll get overlapped wraps. I also find that the >>> first turn of the tool should have no pressure until >>> the wire has one start wrap. You will also find >>> that you won't be able to twizzle it to completion >>> as one motion. You need to make sure that it doesn't >>> back rotate as you go for another grab with your >>> fingers ( this is where another hand comes in handy ). >>> If you get an opening between wraps, don't think you >>> can just squeeze it down to until it looks OK. This >>> make a loose wrap that will have poor electrical connection. >>> Overlapped wraps should be redone as well. >>> Now, go and practice. You'll get the hang of it soon >>> enough. >>> Dwight >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> > > >

23 years, 4 months

Driving a 7805 or how else to get +5VDC reg (was Re: My first good find!!!)

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk > >> How can I take +6VDC of battery power and get +5VDC regulated power >> from it? If it matters, the currents involved will be under 1000mA, >> but probably over 200mA. > >Take a look at 'low dropout regulators'. National Semiconductor make >(made?) them -- LM2940 series I think. They will work down to about 0.6V >difference between input and output (so for a 5V regulator, you need at >least 5.6V in). These are similar to the 7805 -- 3 terminals, and you >need to put a couple of decoupling caps near the chip. > >That probably won't let you use all the capacity of your '6V' battery, >but it should let you use some of it. > >Incidentally, I assuem the Zip drive produced 5V internally from this >battery pack. Any ideas what it used? > >-tony > > Hi He didn't say what kind of batteries he was using to provide 6V. Different batteries have different discharge voltages. Even though a lead-acid battery is fully discharged at 5V. Using it until 5.5V and then recharging is a good idea for longer life. Even if the regulator drops below 5V on the output, most circuits will work down to 4.8V someplace or lower. A low dropout regulator, as you suggest, might still be the best option. Dwight

23 years, 4 months

Wire wrapping

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com> > >Not strictly classiccmp related, but applies to a repair I'm trying >perform on a "classic" machine. I purchased a wire-wrap tool from >DigiKey (PN# K104-ND) and a spool of the proper wire. Unfortunately, >I've never done wire wrap, and it's not obvious how this tool is used. >Does anyone have any good resources that explains wire wrapping? > >For reference, the tool looks like a scredriver, but has two hollow >ends, one of which has a long slit running down the side. > >Thanks, >Jeff > Hi Jeff This is a manual tool and takes a little practice. You need to first start by stripping about .75 to 1 inch of insulation from the end of the wire. There is a built in stripper. Look at the spring steel part in the center of the tool. It has a slit in it that you slide the wire in and then pull the wire from the other side. Now that you have the end, thread the wire from the end, under the small sleeve and along the groove at the side of the shaft. It doesn't have to stay in the groove but make sure it doesn't get kinked or bent badly. Slide the tool and wire over a wire wrap post. Place your index finger at the unwrapper end and twizzle the tool clockwise. This is the tricky part. You need to put enough pressure with your index finger so that there are no opening between wraps but not too much or you'll get overlapped wraps. I also find that the first turn of the tool should have no pressure until the wire has one start wrap. You will also find that you won't be able to twizzle it to completion as one motion. You need to make sure that it doesn't back rotate as you go for another grab with your fingers ( this is where another hand comes in handy ). If you get an opening between wraps, don't think you can just squeeze it down to until it looks OK. This make a loose wrap that will have poor electrical connection. Overlapped wraps should be redone as well. Now, go and practice. You'll get the hang of it soon enough. Dwight

23 years, 4 months

Wire wrapping

by jingber＠ix.netcom.com

Not strictly classiccmp related, but applies to a repair I'm trying perform on a "classic" machine. I purchased a wire-wrap tool from DigiKey (PN# K104-ND) and a spool of the proper wire. Unfortunately, I've never done wire wrap, and it's not obvious how this tool is used. Does anyone have any good resources that explains wire wrapping? For reference, the tool looks like a scredriver, but has two hollow ends, one of which has a long slit running down the side. Thanks, Jeff

23 years, 4 months

Wire wrapping (electric tools?)

by glenslick＠hotmail.com

Do you have any experience using Standard Pneumatic electric wire wrap tools? 6021 models with bits can sometimes be had on eBay in the $40 range, which isn't a whole lot more than buying a new manual tool. Would that be overkill for a small computer project, or would it be nice to have? >From: "Jim Kearney" <jim(a)jkearney.com> >Reply-To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org >To: <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org> >Subject: Re: Wire wrapping >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 18:06:33 -0500 > > >From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com> > > Does anyone have any good resources that explains wire wrapping? > >This web page has some nice, clear explanations and pictures: > >http://www.stdpneumatic.com/resource/tech_wire.html > >Jim _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail

23 years, 4 months

The ACE is recovering :-)

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On Dec 6, 22:40, Philip Pemberton wrote: > Joe wrote: > > This might be a good time to make a dump of the ROMs before one of > > them bites the dust. > I'm not even sure they are 2532s (they might be 2732s). They're TI branded > and carry the part numbers "ACE-A" and "ACE-B". I don't have an EPROM > programmer either... Besides, the image is on the web: http://www.home-micros.freeserve.co.uk/JupiterAce/JupiterAce.html near the bottom of the page. -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

23 years, 4 months

AS/400 troubleshooting?

by Adrien.Farkas＠Sun.COM

Hello folks, recently (yesterday) I got a new (for me, of course) AS/400 box, and started to play with it. Everything started okay, booted with no problems (after a year unnoticed in the corner). Today a rebooted it (for whatever reason), turned it on, re-connected the twinax console, but nothing appears. The green cursor remains in the upper right corner (meaning that the AS/400 didn't notice the console yet, afaik). Some hints, ideas, places to point me to? Cheers, -- freddy

23 years, 4 months

Morrow Designs external 8" floppy drive?

by fmc＠reanimators.org

Joe <rigdonj(a)cfl.rr.com> wrote: > biege case about 8" tall x 6" wide x 20" deep. It has ribbon > cable header (50 pin?) on the back along with an AC socket and > power switch, the drive appears to be a FH Shugart. It's just a drive in an external drive box w/power supply. Morrow sold S-100 floppy disk controllers and external drives to go with them. -Frank McConnell

23 years, 4 months

Morrow Designs external 8" floppy drive?

by Innfogra＠aol.com

In a message dated 12/6/02 3:04:32 PM Pacific Standard Time, rigdonj(a)cfl.rr.com writes: > > > Does anyone know what system these are for? I've never heard of one > before. I had a MD-2 and it used 5 1/4" drives. This is in a biege case > about 8" tall x 6" wide x 20" deep. It has ribbon cable header (50 pin?) on > the back along with an AC socket and power switch, the drive appears to be > a FH Shugart. > > It sounds like it is an external drive cabinet. Morrow had external cabinets for single and dual 8" floppy and hard drives. Used with their S100 systems that preceded your MD-2 series. I believe Morrow got it's start with S100 systems. Paxton Astoria, OR

23 years, 4 months

Sighted: GenRad 2300 Advanced Developement System

by rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com

Anyone know what this is? The main unit looks about like a terminal with a builtin CRT and keyboard and has boards in the back that look simialr to STD bus cards (but I didn't look close). There are two other units, one has two 8" floppy drives in it and the other says that it's an expansion unit. Joe

23 years, 4 months

OpenVMS VAX hobbysit CD

by Antonio.Carlini＠riverstonenet.com

>I believe he meant 'unlimited users' not 'use'. PAKs are limited in several ways (not all of which are used in practice). One typical way was that each PAK would grant a certain number of "units" for a given product. So using the FORTRAN compiler on a relatively slow MicroVAX 3900 series box might require say 500 units, while using the same compiler on a VAX 7000-860 might require perhaps 10000 units (I'm making up the numbers ...). Later on, some products switched to activity based licences. In the above example 500 units allows you as many concurrent FORTRAN compilations as your MicroVAX can stand. With activity based licences, your FORTRAN compilation on a certain platform might eat up 100 activity units so with a 500 activity licence you could run 5 FORTRAN compiles simultaneously. Then there were user-based licences ... In short, it appears that the hobbyist licences are limited only in time (they expire after a year) but will work without restriction on both your MicroVAX I and your AlphaServer GS320 during that year. Antonio

23 years, 4 months

Need information on TRSDOS 1.3 internals

by tim＠tim-mann.org

Eric Smith wrote: > I think you want _TRS-80 Disk and Other Mysteries_. That was one of > the Mysteries books I didn't have, but ISTR that Al turned up a copy > recently. No, that only covers Model I TRSDOS 2.x and NEWDOS 2.1. Sellam asked about TRSDOS 1.3, which I have to assume means Model III TRSDOS. > Each track had 10 sectors. They were allocated to files in groups of > five, which were called granules or grans. There's a Granule > Allocation Table (GAT) which I think was basically an allocation > bitmap. Model I TRSDOS (and single density disks on all TRSDOS-like DOSes that support single density) uses this format. -- Tim Mann tim(a)tim-mann.org http://www.tim-mann.org/

23 years, 4 months

Looking for Michael Nadeau

by jrkeys＠concentric.net

I have been trying for the last few days to reach Michael and all my emails bounce back with fatal errors? Does anyone have a different email address than these two; editor(a)classictechpub.com and Eletter(a)lyris.dudee.net Thanks for any help.

23 years, 4 months

UK electronic scrap prices.

by Lee.Davison＠merlincommunications.com

> What sort of equipment is this? Old PCs or test gear? I'll tell once I have it, but it's way cooler than PCs. Cheers, Lee. ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all viruses by Star Internet. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________

23 years, 4 months

Web Site Question (was: OT: _spam_)

by Robert_Feldman＠jdedwards.com

I'd agree that the current layout is good. Next, I'd go with the fancier one, but both are _too pastel_. How 'bout some good, saturated colors? -----Original Message----- From: Zane H. Healy [mailto:healyzh@aracnet.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 5:19 PM To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org Subject: Re: Web Site Question (was: OT: _spam_) <snip> Having looked at all three, I rather like the current, but think it would look better without the busy graphic below the black CLASSICCMP line. Of the other two, I prefer the 'retro' one, but would recommend white instead of pale green. <snip>

23 years, 4 months

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