This seller has an (apparently) large stock of these IMS slave CPU
boards and has been slowly getting rid of them on eBay. No
complaints, though I didn't realize it was a slave as opposed to
standalone CPU board when I picked up a pair.
Haven't found any info on them, but I'm not looking all that hard
either.
--Steve.
On Feb 11, 18:49, Vintage Computer Festival wrote:
> Can anyone suggest a safe way to remove grime that is so old and so
thick
> that the only way to remove it is to rub it off with your bare
fingers?
>
> I slathered this board in contact cleaner and it didn't do anything.
The
> grime just remained. If I rub it with my bare fingers then it will
> eventually start to rub off and leave little remainders like pencil
eraser
> droppings.
Don't use contact cleaner. Proper contact cleaner contains oil. It's
not nearly as bad as WD40, but you don't really want the board covered
in a flm of oil.
If it's just one board, try washing it in warm water with some
washing-up liquid (dishwashing detergent). If the grime is that
stubborn, assist the process with a dishwashing brush. Rinse well, dry
carefully (shake off or blow off as much water as possible, use some
IPA to help remove the water). If you're in an area with very hard
water, the final rinse before the IPA might best be done with distilled
or deionised water. Don't dry the boards flat, the object is to let as
much water (and any minerals dissolved in it) as possible to drain off.
Make sure the board is thoroughly dry, which may take a day or two,
especially if there are switches or sockets on it, before you try to
use it.
If that's too much like hard work, or you have a lot of boards to
clean, consider using the dishwasher. That's what's used commercially
(at least, for small-scale stuff). However, DON'T let it do the drying
cycle (too hot for some things) and don't use the dishwasher if the
board contains anything that might suffer: transformers, relays (unless
hermetically sealed), paper labels that must be preserved, anything
with extremely fine wires (core mats), etc. I've been told some very
old ICs (grey type) don't like being immersed in hot water. I've never
had a problem with that, but YMMV. Some old types of compressed paper
boards (Paxolin) may not like the dishwasher either. Same rules apply
about drying.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Sorry about the date... Not only did I get it wrong, but posted it in the
US convention... In your terms, it would be 2/9/01, A Sunday, at @ 00:15,
CST (GMT -5).
Cheers...
Ed Tillman
Store Automation Tech Support Specialist
Valero Energy Corporation
San Antonio, TX; USA
Phone (210) 592-3110, Fax (210) 592-2048
edward.tillman(a)valero.com <mailto:edward.tillman@valero.com>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cctalk-admin@classiccmp.org@PEUSA On Behalf Of Sellam
> Ismail <foo(a)siconic.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 12:11 AM
> To: 'cctalk(a)classiccmp.org'
> Subject: RE: Home to remove monumental grime?
>
> On Tue, 11 Feb 2003, Tillman, Edward wrote:
>
> > From what are you trying to remove the grime?
>
> A very precious board, so anything not extraordinarily safe is right out.
>
> > - Pencil erasers work in a multitude of places, on a multitude of
> things...
>
> This would probably be the best bet. In the meantime I used a paper towel
> to rub the board where the grime was and it did a decent job, but there is
> still a layer of film.
>
> > **Watch-out rubbing it off with your bare fingers: you can generate ESD
> > (static electricity) and fry sensitive circuits/components!
>
> I removed all the ICs from their sockets.
>
> > [Note: Water may actually be one of the LEAST harmful cleaners! On
> > 11/2/01, a week before the WTC debacle, my primary network server system
>
> Then that would've been 4/9/01, yes? ;)
>
> Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer
> Festival
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
> International Man of Intrigue and Danger
> http://www.vintage.org
>
> * Old computing resources for business and academia at
> www.VintageTech.com *
[demime 1.01a removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
>> At first I filled my tank at my fire house off our breathing air
>> compressor, but that got to be a pain, so I bought a small air compressor
>> (also at Sears, also about $40)
>
>You mean one of those small, tankless compressors? I went to Sears last
>night, and the cheapest tank-equipped compressor they had was $180.
>Considering the potential cheapness of used scuba gear, that's way too much
>to pay for air. Anyway, I'd always thought that those little compressors
>weren't all that great. Am I wrong?
Correct, a tankless compressor. The type sold for filling car tires or
whatever.
The one I have is pretty good considering the price, but I can't use it
directly to run my blowgun. I have to fill my storage tank, and run the
blow gun off that. The reason is, the compressor will go to 250 PSI, but
it starts at Zero and works its way up. So if I attach the blowgun
directly to it, I never get more than about 1 or 2 PSI (whatever pressure
it builds up from friction going thru the hose).
But, the compressor works very well for filling my 12 gallon air tank to
200 PSI, which then works very well for running my blowgun at 10-60 PSI
(depending on where I set the regulator).
Although used SCUBA gear is a good cheap option, you have to consider how
often you are going to fill it, and how much that is going to cost you.
Remember, if you pay $180 for a tank/compressor at Sears, that's it. From
then on out, compressed air is more or less free (electricity to power
the compressor, and maintenance costs). With a SCUBA tank, you might buy
the tank and regulator for under $100, but you will pay for each refill
(unless you know someone that has a 3000 PSI compressor... if you are
friends with a fireman, ask if their department can do it, we do for
friends and the occasional resident if they ask nicely, but then not all
FDs have their own breathing air compressor, and fewer have the
attachments for filling SCUBA gear)
If you figure $8 each, your last $80 is used up in 10 fillings. Not to
mention the time/effort/annoyance to have to fill it when it runs out at
the worst possible time. But if you don't fill the bottle offen (those
bottles hold a LOT of air at 1 atmosphere), then SCUBA might be the
cheaper, and certainly quieter option.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Well, this is not in my 1981, 82, 84 or 85 HP catalogs. I was wondering what
resource it manages, what it plugs into? Any info out there on this? Anyone
have a 1983 HP catalog they could check? or maybe a 1980?
It works with the HP 9825, 9835 & 9845 series of computers from the early
1980s. On the other end is an Amphenol 50 pin female connector, similar to
early SCSI 1 connectors.
Pictures at:
http://members.aol.com/innfosale/ebay/98029A1A.JPGhttp://members.aol.com/innfosale/ebay/98029A1B.JPG
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks a lot.
Paxton
Astoria, OR
Can anybody tell me more about this core memory assembly ?
The assembly consists of three wire-wrapped "BICM9" backplanes, one
of these holds four 8K x 9 core memory boards, the other two contain
several modules with names like "M9INH", "M9SNS" and "M9SEL".
Logic on the various boards appears to be mixed TTL/DTL (!) in
standard DIL packages, most boards are from 1972.
Pictures:
http://www.digischool.nl/~erikb/identify.html
Thanks in advance,
Erik.
Second time around, I won an ELT-320 on ePay... unfortunately, this one
has no PSU. Could one of the owners of one on this list e-mail me
the pinouts? From the auction I _didn't_ win, it appears that it
takes +12VDC @ 2.5A. The question is how/where. The picture seems
to suggest that's it's via a DIN-5 connector at the corner of the
back side.
Thanks for any help.
-ethan
On Feb 11, 15:07, Patrick Finnegan wrote:
> I picked up an Iris 4D/80 'deskside' monster, sans drives, with
digital
> video I/O capabilites and 'analog' video output and 'VTR' control
today
> from Purdue Salvage. I don't have a whole lot of documentation on
the
> system (well, basically none), and about all I do know is that the
> processor board seems to be filled with RAM and it has BNC jacks on
the
> back panel for connection to a monitor.
>
> Can anyone tell me what versions of IRIX might work with this system
> and/or where to pick up a copy? I'd love to see if I could get this
thing
> running again.
It should be capable of running IRIX 5.3, but unless it's unusual and
has more than 16MB of RAM, you'd be better off with 4.0.5 (last version
was 4.0.5f). Also the graphics may not be supported fully in 5.3,
depending on what options you've got. A useful place to start looking
for information is the 4DFAQ (also known as "This Old SGI") which
you'll find at
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Pines/2258/4dfaq.html
Don't forget the comp.sys.sgi.* newsgroups, there are a few people
there who either have or fondly remember the 4D series and can help.
Look on Ebay (yes, really) for IRIX. 5.3 is more common than 4.0.5 but
they do appear fom time to time. I have a 4.0.5 CD which I'd offer to
copy, but some kind soul scratched it rather badly and it won't read
now :-(
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
I picked up an Iris 4D/80 'deskside' monster, sans drives, with digital
video I/O capabilites and 'analog' video output and 'VTR' control today
>from Purdue Salvage. I don't have a whole lot of documentation on the
system (well, basically none), and about all I do know is that the
processor board seems to be filled with RAM and it has BNC jacks on the
back panel for connection to a monitor.
Can anyone tell me what versions of IRIX might work with this system
and/or where to pick up a copy? I'd love to see if I could get this thing
running again.
Thanks,
Pat
--
Purdue Universtiy ITAP/RCS
Information Technology at Purdue
Research Computing and Storage
http://www-rcd.cc.purdue.edu
The problem with this is that you are totally ignoring
the owners rights in this.
You are treating a program like physical property when
it isn't. It is Intellectual Property.
If you do not purchase a license from the author to
use his work, you are not entitled to own it.
Whether you have made a copy so that nobody else is
deprived of their copy is immaterial.
Something is lost by him/her. His/her rights to
control the distribution of his/her work.
If you don't want to buy it, then you shouldn't have
it.
If you say "F" you, I'm going to take one anyway...
What's the point in having copyright/ownership laws?
If the laws aren't used, respected and enforced..
eventually people will decide not to create cool stuff
because most people will "copy" it (and in your
concept, since they won't buy it anyway... No harm is
being done...), and the author will recieve little to
no compensation for his work.
So, those people will decide to do something where
they will get paid.
If you consistently rob a store, eventually it will go
out of business, and you won't have anything to rob
anymore, not to mention... Actually buy something you
need....
So there is HUGE harm in stealing software by copying
it. Most pirates won't admit to it, because then
they'd have to admit they are bad people, stealing
>from someone/everyone...
This is all elementary business/copyright law. Not an
opinion. It's the basis of all copyright law.
Regards,
Al
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
I've got a couple of ELT-320s. The PS brick says Model PSA-124, input
110v-240v(a)1.5A, output 12v(a)4.2A.
From: Ethan Dicks <erd_6502(a)yahoo.com>
> I know there's others here and on the SBC6120 list that are also
> looking for them now. Hopefully the supply will continue to trickle
> them out now and then.
Hmmm...I'm in on the sbc6120. I was actually thinking of building it into a
terminal case...
Hi Dan.
AFAI can tell from memory, you do the following.
1) find the opening in the front that is a little
larger than the other openings (for cooling).
2) Use a screwdriver to push the plate that is
behind the opening mentioned in 1).
3) While that plate is pushed in, you can lift the
top cover including the electronics of the RA82.
4) In the middle yoy see the large (black) cilinder
thing. That is the HDA. When you stand in front
of the drive you see a small lever at "6 o clock".
Rotate that level 180 degrees to lock the heads.
You must lift the level at the end a little to be
able to rotate it. On the HDA is a text that tells
you the position of the level. (At least, that is
the case with my *RA81*.
5) At the right hand side, near the chassis plate of
the drive is a handle. This handle releases/sets
the drive belt free/tension to the HDA.
I do not know if the tension should be released
when you transport the drive. If you are not going
to use the drive for say, several months, you could
release the tension to prevent deforming (flatten)
the drive belt at one location.
Take care, RA82's are heavy,
- Henk.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Veeneman [mailto:dan@ekoan.com]
> Sent: vrijdag 7 februari 2003 23:04
> To: cctech(a)classiccmp.org
> Subject: Disk drive head locking (DEC RA-82 and HP 7920)
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm scheduled to pick up a pair of DEC RA-82 drives along
> with an HP 7920 drive in the next couple of weeks.
>
> I don't have any technical documentation for either of these
> drives, but I'd be very interested in learning the proper
> procedure for locking down the heads on these drives
> prior to moving them. If anyone has the steps to take
> for either or both of these drives, please drop me a note
> or point me to the proper archive.
> Cheers,
>
> Dan
> www.decodesystems.com/wanted.html
Dan's Pics at
http://www.decodesystems.com/old-ics.html
The first white mystery chip is General Instruments ROM. A while back someone
posted a link to an IC-IDentification database which I downloaded. It has
helped me identify some of these older chip logos.
The second mystery chip is an EPROM identical to the ones on a S50 card I
just sold on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1247&item=2305518019
Mine were labeled as AMD with an unusual part number. I will leave the pics
up for a while longer.
Now to go look at Dan's want page....
Paxton
Astoria, OR
In a message dated 2/10/03 11:03:12 PM Pacific Standard Time,
philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com writes:
> Would that happen to have been the IC-ID database program from my website?
>
Yes, it is. Sorry for the belated thanks but thanks. I use it occasionally
and it has helped me identify some of the older chips like Dan's (and mine)
General Instrument chips.
Thanks for posting the link so long ago, too.
Paxton
Astoria, OR
Good question,
french dressing, nah - lol
belt dressing - not sure if it even softens the belt
but it does swell the belt.
armor all - may work - might soften the platen - but
it leaves a very slick coating - i wonder if the paper
will stay in one place as the platen moves.
the type "ball" hammer also has a rubber "button" that
slips over it - i know those and the platen were once
replacable - try a search for "teletype" on the web.
i know the nadcomm meseum http://www.nadcomm.com/ has
a link for teletype paper tape and paper on it.
the nadcomm page links are near the bottom under the
heading "Teletypewriter Supplies"
Bill
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2003 14:51:14 -0700
From: ben franchuk <bfranchuk(a)jetnet.ab.ca>
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: RE: asr 33 platen
Reply-To: cctech(a)classiccmp.org
George R. Gonzalez wrote:
> I need some suggestions! Should I try ArmorAll
(known to soften
rubber,
> given time), "Platen cleaner", "belt dressing",
"french dressing", or
what?
I would try 'rubber renue' from M.G. Chemicals. Ben.
--__--__--
I believe it was Alpha Microsystems, and IIRC the PC version was sold
through Radio Shack. I believe I may still have an old AM-610 (S-100) VCR
interface board in the basement if anyone is interested (free to a good
home)...
Larry
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cctalk-admin(a)classiccmp.org
> [mailto:cctalk-admin@classiccmp.org]On
> Behalf Of Andrew Strouse
> Sent: Monday, February 10, 2003 1:09 PM
> To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
> Subject: VHS Tapes as storage.
>
>
> Hi, I seem to remember reading in popular electronics, about
> software that
> would let you use a vcr to backup your computer. I think it
> was about 10
> years ago. Does anyone remember or know anything about this.
> My searches on
> google have turned up nothing. Thanks for any help you can provide!
>
> Andrew Strouse
> From: Joe <rigdonj(a)cfl.rr.com>
> It says that the MIPPs ICs are standard MIPPs processors
> but built to Mil-Standards.
That would actually be MIPS processors. The MIPS architecture came out of
Stanford and stands for (supposedly) "Microprocessor without Interlocking
Pipeline Stages".
>>I've actually got some Performance Semi 1750A chipsets...I must think of
>>>something to do with them...
>
> I've got a few as well. I also just found a 1753 (MMU IIRC)
Yup.
> and 1754 (I/O interface IIRC).
Usually called a PIC (peripheral interface controller).
Let me know if you ever want to get rid of those...I have several complete
chipsets, but can always use spares.
> In case you'r enot aware of it, the 1750 is a "standard"
> processor that the government is trying to use in all
> aircraft and aerospace applications.
Well...it was the standard a decade or two ago; the standard came out around
1980, AFAIK. I don't think that there has been a hard requirement for 1750A
in military contracts for a long, long time. It's only a 16-bit processor,
after all, and almost noone makes it any more (Performance doesn't). It,
like the JOVIAL programming language often used to program it, are probably
only around for maintenance and upgrades of existing platforms.
Ken
I put "VCR Backup" into Yahoo!, and this came up...
http://www.viscountvideo.com/danmere.htm
Hope this helps..
Regards,
Al
> From: "Andrew Strouse" <kittstr(a)access-4-free.com>
> To: <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
> Subject: VHS Tapes as storage.
> Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 13:09:15 -0500
> Reply-To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
>
> Hi, I seem to remember reading in popular
> electronics, about software that
> would let you use a vcr to backup your computer. I
> think it was about 10
> years ago. Does anyone remember or know anything
> about this. My searches on
> google have turned up nothing. Thanks for any help
> you can provide!
>
> Andrew Strouse
Well I didn't find the Holy Grail but this is close! I went to a hamfest today and in a box of junk I found the operating program for the HP 9877 Mass Memory unit! That's the box that has up to four tape drives installed and was used to mass duplicate HP 9825 tapes at the HP factory. The 9877 is a rare bird and was only offered to the public for one year (1979 IIRC) but I've got two of the 9877s, Tony D has one and NASA KSC has one but NO ONE has been able to locate the operating program for it till now. The tape APPEARS to be in good condition but you know how HP tapes are :-(
The full name of the tape is "Duplicator 9825A/9877" and it's part number is 09877-10002.
Other INTERESTING finds (in the same box no less!) were a new DC-300A tape (as used on the IBM 5100 and Tektronix 4051), a Plot 50 tape and Plot 50 Backup tape and an Alignment tape. All three are for the Tektronix 4051 computer.
Wahoo! A good ClassiComp day!
Joe
Innfogra(a)aol.com wrote:
> It works with the HP 9825, 9835 & 9845 series of computers from the early
> 1980s. On the other end is an Amphenol 50 pin female connector, similar to
> early SCSI 1 connectors.
WAG from the name: it's a widget to connect a 98x5 into an HP Shared
Resource Management (SRM) network. I vaguely recall that there was a
coaxial SRM bus cable, and some SRM interfaces had the BNC connector
for the bus cable while others had a 50-pin Amphenol connector and
expected to have a transceiver-like device between the Amphenol connector
and the coax.
I've read about this stuff in manuals, but never used it or even seen
it in use. And I didn't know you could hook a 98x5 up to it, my
readings about it have been in the context of HP9000 series 200 and
300 systems.
-Frank McConnell
I have a set of pages about this unit on my website...
http://www.geocities.com/macemulist/nutek.html
I'd like to buy one of these, if I can find one.
If anyone on this list has one in any condition
(hopefully working or repairable), please contact me
off list...
Basically, this was an attempt to clone the Mac
including making a Clone OS.
If you have one of these, I'd love to get copies of
any floppies that came with it, manuals, and a dump of
the ROMS even if you don't want to sell yours.
It would be interesting to see if the ROMS would work
on one of the many Mac Emulators, or could be made to
work.
Regards,
Al Hartman
(Macintosh Emulation List Host)
http://www.topica.com/lists/MacEmuList
Enlightenment means taking full responsibility for
your life.
- William Blake
I seem to have a couple hundred MB15140s in their original Fujitsu IC boxes.
Does anyone have an idea what they are?
Picture at http://members.aol.com/innfosale/MB15140A.JPG
Is there a Fujitsu chip list on the Internet available? Google did not bring
anything up for me.
The date codes are 8809 so they are on topic. I got them from Fujitsu nearly
10 years ago and uncovered them recently. I would not be surprised if they
were for the Fujitsu 8" or 14" hard drives since I bought a lot of new parts
when they dismantled their 8" line in Hillsboro, OR.
Any help appreciated.
Paxton
Astoria, OR
>From: "Bryan Pope" <bpope(a)wordstock.com>
>
>Hey all,
>
> Awhile ago there was a thread about electrolytic capacitors popping and
>then destroying the motherboard they are on. One of the ideas was to
>replace them before they go.
>
> Now I was wondering about another idea... Would it be okay to encase
>the capacitor in silicone gel? Then when the capacitor pops, it wouldn't
>spread its electrolyte all over the motherboard.
>
> But would this cause other problems with heat or something? Would it
>further shorten the life of the capacitor?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Bryan
>
Hi
There isn't much you could cover it with that would stop a cap
>from blowing. The pressures can get to several thousand PSI
if there isn't a relief someplace. Wrapping several layers of
paper towel around them might be better. This would at least
keep the mess from the PCB.
There was an article about some bad capacitors made in the
last few years. According to the story, someone stole a formula
for the electrolyte and the formula was missing some key
ingredient ( most likely a depolarizer ). The caps made this
way would out gas and rupture.
Dwight