test-drb

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101090 discussions

H89: Soft-sectored controller help/question

by patrick＠evocative.com

Thanks to Wayne Smith's timely docs for the Heath Z-89-37 soft-sectored floppy controller, after another person who shall for the moment remain nameless has failed to fulfill his (repeated) promise of spare parts and docs paid for seven months ago now, but I digress... I think I'm in the home stretch of getting the board installed and working. But... The installation instructions for the controller state that CPU board ICs U557 and U558 are to be removed, and a DIP header/ribbon cable from the controller board is to be connected into the now empty U557, and a "20 pin plug with jumper" are to be installed at U558. However, I do not _have_ the 20-pin plug with jumper that replaces the 74LS240 removed at U558, and the connection of a jumper in this socket is not immediately evident to me from studying the schematics. Can someone with an H/Z-90 and the soft-sectored controller please take a look and tell me what pins in the 20-pin plug at U558 are jumpered? Thanks! Patrick

23 years

Coming up dry for Alps/Radio Shack/Atari/Commodore plotter gears

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

Hi As long as the load is not that great, one can whack out the center with a drill and then notch it with a file. The drill needs to be larger than the OD of the inner splins. You then fill the voids with a mixture of epoxie and fiber glass wool. Using something like JB Weld will make the material as hard as most plastics. To keep things aligned while the epoxie is setting, make a jig to hold things by drilling some concentric holes in layers of plywood that are bolted together, for alignment. You need to put a wax surface on the plywood where the epoxie will be so it doesn't stick. It isn't real clean looking but should be functional. Dwight >From: "Mail List" <mail.list(a)analog-and-digital-solutions.com> > >Hello Ethan, > >Internal splines, which is basically what that extrusion die would be are >much harder to do than cutting gear teeth on the OD of a gear blank. >The internal splines would have to be done on a slotter ( or possibly >a shaper with the right set up, i.e. some cutting machine with a linear >reciprocating cutting motion ) or cut into the die with EDM or wire >EDM processes. Much more difficult, and therefore more expensive >manufacturing processes. Original gears probably were shot in a >plastic injection mold, but the mold making is very expensive too, and >not something to do for very small production runs. Too bad you couldn't >find someone with a broach, because broaching internal splines might >not be as expensive a manufacturing process as long as you found >someone with the broach already made up. To have a tool and die maker >have to make a broach would also be expensive. Also extrusion die blank >material would have too not be too hard to broach. But then you have to >have the extrusion process set up and run. All in all, if you can't find them >already made up, milling the teeth into blanks or slotting on a lathe are >probably going to be your only really feasible options. > >Best Regards > > > > >At 08:13 AM 4/22/03 -0700, you wrote: >>Having worked out the pitch of the broken drive gears (120), and >>having looked on a couple of web sites _and_ contacted someone >>at Boston Gear, it's looking grim. >> >>According to the e-mail I got back, Boston Gear doesn't carry anything >>finer than a pitch of 64. When I asked who did carry such gears, the >>answer was: "I am not familiar with any company that makes miniature >>gearing." :-( >> >>My goal all along has been to find a company that has a bag of these >>on the shelf. I had no idea it was such an unusual item. I don't >>relish the idea of fabrication, but maybe that's what we're facing. >> >>Rather than machining each gear, I wonder how hard it would be to >>make an extrusion die to pump out a long gear and cut it into 5/32" >>slices? >> >>-ethan >>The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo >>http://search.yahoo.com

23 years

Coming up dry for Alps/Radio Shack/Atari/Commodore plotter gears

by erd_6502＠yahoo.com

Having worked out the pitch of the broken drive gears (120), and having looked on a couple of web sites _and_ contacted someone at Boston Gear, it's looking grim. According to the e-mail I got back, Boston Gear doesn't carry anything finer than a pitch of 64. When I asked who did carry such gears, the answer was: "I am not familiar with any company that makes miniature gearing." :-( My goal all along has been to find a company that has a bag of these on the shelf. I had no idea it was such an unusual item. I don't relish the idea of fabrication, but maybe that's what we're facing. Rather than machining each gear, I wonder how hard it would be to make an extrusion die to pump out a long gear and cut it into 5/32" slices? -ethan The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo http://search.yahoo.com

23 years

Coming up dry for Alps/Radio Shack/Atari/Commodore plotter gears

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Peter C. Wallace" <pcw(a)mesanet.com> > >On Tue, 22 Apr 2003, Ethan Dicks wrote: > >> --- "Dwight K. Elvey" <dwightk.elvey(a)amd.com> wrote: >> > Hi >> > As long as the load is not that great, one can whack >> > out the center with a drill and then notch it with a file. >> > The drill needs to be larger than the OD of the inner splins. >> > You then fill the voids with a mixture of epoxie and >> > fiber glass wool... >> >> That sounds interesting for a large enough gear, but in this case, >> it's about 1/8" in diameter and 5/32" long with a bore of 1/20". >> >> I don't think I'll be trying to whack and/or notch a chunk of >> plastic that's smaller than a tic-tac. > >How about making a silicone mold from an original gear and making copies out >of some kind of plastic or epoxy resin? > >> >> -ethan >> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo >> http://search.yahoo.com >> > >Peter Wallace > Like minds! Dwight

23 years

Coming up dry for Alps/Radio Shack/Atari/Commodore plotter gears

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org > >On Tue, 22 Apr 2003, Ethan Dicks wrote: > >> That sounds interesting for a large enough gear, but in this case, it's >> about 1/8" in diameter and 5/32" long with a bore of 1/20". >> >> I don't think I'll be trying to whack and/or notch a chunk of plastic >> that's smaller than a tic-tac. > >What type of plastic were these gears made from? I was thinking about >pulling out one of my plotters, but I don't exactly remember where I put >it right now ;P > >If they are made of nylon, I'm surprised that they split. I really expect >to find that they were made of some kind of ABS or ABS blended plastic >that didn't handle the press-fit pressure very well. > >Has anyone contacted Alps to see if maybe they might know where the gears >were made originally? It's certainly possible a set of molds might still >be sitting around somewhere... > >-Toth > Hi I've seen this same kind of failure in a small Automatic Kodak camera. One other thought would be to make a mold with a good gear and use that to make new gears using something like JB Weld ( I do like this stuff ). You'd mold the gear on the shaft so that there would be no tendency to split the gear from pressing it together. The gear in the camera looked like it was a nylon gear and not the typical plastic. I didn't make a check on it though. Dwight

23 years

Two new Apple toys

by healyzh＠aracnet.com

> > These would also work in a IIgs wouldn't they? > > Probably, but you don't need one for a ROM 03 IIgs -- they have built-in > boot-over-LocalTalk support. I wish I had a ROM 03 IIgs, but then I also wish I had room to have my IIe and IIgs setup. Unfortunatly all my Apple II stuff is in storage. :^( Zane

23 years

F/U HP 9134A HDD problem

by rhahm＠nycap.rr.com

Hello, I want to give some follow up on my problem interfacing a 9134A HDD to my HP 85. Nothing seemed to work and I was about to toss it when I decided to follow the advice of Alex Knight and vp**. Alex suggested removing the HDD and trying to initialize each one of the 4 logical drives with the HDD on it's side, "to loosen things up a bit". I took the top off, and hey, does HP use the biggest darn capacitors you have ever seen or what? There are two side by side capacitors in there that look like sticks of dynamite. Mindful of these I had the first screw holding the drive out when I noticed under a big dust ball that the ribbon cable connection from the HDD to the PCB was loose. I pushed it back on and to my delight everything now works fine! After a little detailing she looks and works great. Thanks again for your help. >I am having trouble interfacing an HP 9134 HDD to my HP 85. I have connected >other drives without difficulty such as the 9121D so I believe the computer >is set up properly. >I recently picked up a 9134A HD. It apparently emulates a 9895A 8" flexible >drive and 3 slaves each with 1.15MB capacity. >I set the HP-IB address to zero on the HD and typed MASS STORAGE is ":D700". >I then typed CAT and Initialize and keep getting a "Timeout". Also if I turn >the 85 on with the HD connected and running and type CAT the HD does not >respond as my 9121 would without typing a mass storage is command. >Can I assume the drive is bad or am I using the wrong syntax. The drive >spins up nicely, and the light comes on but I get that error message and the >disk access light does not come on. >I hate to toss this drive into the dumpster if it is functional. >Thank you for your thoughts. <Bob H

23 years

KIM-1 question

by ssj152＠charter.net

I recently got a KIM-1 Rev. A (on eBay) and have a question about it. This particular model, the Revision A, doesn't say Commodore, and has a low (< 3000) serial number on it. What it DOES have, is a PIN 10 of U26 is cut in half, and a twisted pair of wires are attached 1) at the chip, and 2) at the board. The end of the wires not connected to U26 is not connected to anything other than each other. The schematic showing this component is in the KIM-1 User Manual, section 3.7 Is this part of a known mod for the KIM-1? It looks to me like it might have been used with a switch on the free end to select half duplex (open) and full duplex (closed) for the TTY interface. Your suggestions and comments are solicited. Regards, Stuart Johnson

23 years

HP storage formats on ss80 protocol disks

by peterbrown10＠hotmail.com

Hi Joe and Paxton?, Joe, I'm using device level calls to the NI GPIB board via the GPIB-32.DLL so any NI card that uses this driver should work - that includes NI ISA based cards (TNT-GPIB etc.), PCI cards (PCI-GPIB - the one that I'm using) and probably the PCMCIA-GPIB as well. For the record, my development machine is XP based though any Win32 operating system should be OK. I'm going to try to tidy the code up a little - if people think that the idea of making an online catalog of files is a good one then I have no problem with making this application available to help making it. Paxton, Apologies if Paxton is where you live and not your name - I live in the UK so my knowledge of US place names is a little lacking! My development machine has two GPIB cards in it both are PCI based - one is an NI PCI-GPIB card, the other an HP 82350 card. The NI configuration utility only displays the NI card that is installed in the machine however the HP utility shows both cards. It may be that the HP card can be controlled using the NI software but I haven't tried it yet - I'll have a play this evening. If the HP PCI based card can be recognised then it is possible that an HP ISA card would be OK. If not then it should be OK to use an NI ISA based GPIB card (around $20 on e-bay). I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers Peter Brown _________________________________________________________________ Stay in touch with absent friends - get MSN Messenger http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

23 years

Radio Shack/Science Fair bonus

by cb＠mythtech.net

>I found this: > > http://support.radioshack.com/support_games/3183.htm > >... but that is dozens, not hundreds. I could not find anything on >their website for the "10-in-1" kit (but I could find "30-in-1" and >"200-in-1"). > >Am I looking in the wrong place? You're looking in the right place... looks like they just don't have that one. And I didn't mean hundreds in that catagory, I meant hundreds of manuals in total. Unless they have removed a bunch recently. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

23 years

FREE Some kind of SIMM card

by cb＠mythtech.net

I have some kind of 72 pin SIMM card here. I am pretty sure I pulled it >from a dying Zenith 386 before the PC was scrapped. The only label on it says JABIL APE 240-7929-20 I think it might be some kind of BIOS card, or Cache card. Silk screened between two chips says 32K Cache 85-3749-01. I don't know if that refers to the card, or just the two chips it is printed between. None of the other chips on the card have screened labels of value. If anyone wants it, send me your address, I'll stick it in a padded envelope and mail it out to you. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

23 years

Coming up dry for Alps/Radio Shack/Atari/Commodore plotter g ears

by Robert_Feldman＠jdedwards.com

Allied Devices (http://www.allieddevices.com/web2000/documents/pinhubgears.80.120.html) lists 120 pitch gears. Making a die (internal cuts) is probably harder than machining individual gears. -----Original Message----- From: Ethan Dicks [mailto:erd_6502@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 10:13 AM To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org Subject: Coming up dry for Alps/Radio Shack/Atari/Commodore plotter gears Having worked out the pitch of the broken drive gears (120), and having looked on a couple of web sites _and_ contacted someone at Boston Gear, it's looking grim. According to the e-mail I got back, Boston Gear doesn't carry anything finer than a pitch of 64. When I asked who did carry such gears, the answer was: "I am not familiar with any company that makes miniature gearing." :-( My goal all along has been to find a company that has a bag of these on the shelf. I had no idea it was such an unusual item. I don't relish the idea of fabrication, but maybe that's what we're facing. Rather than machining each gear, I wonder how hard it would be to make an extrusion die to pump out a long gear and cut it into 5/32" slices? -ethan The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo http://search.yahoo.com

23 years

6850 IC needed

by acme＠ao.net

From: Ethan Dicks <erd_6502(a)yahoo.com> Date: 04/20/2003 8:57 PM > B.G. Micro - $1.75 > > http://www.bgmicro.com/prodinfo.asp?sid=08246180555555562416016975&prodid=I… > 0&page=1&cri=6850&stype=3 Thanks! Glen 0/0

23 years

6850 IC needed

by acme＠ao.net

From: Paul Berger <sanepsycho(a)globaldialog.com> Date: 04/20/2003 7:41 PM > You fixing an OSI system? > > Paul No, it's a LarKen 1000 floppy disk drive controller for the ZX81/TS1000. On the off chance that *anyone* on this list has a schematic for this critter -- I'd sure appreciate it! Later -- Glen 0/0

23 years

HP storage formats on ss80 protocol disks

by Innfogra＠aol.com

Ditto; I have several drives and would like to interrogate them. I also just picked up a HP ISA HPIB card at Goodwill (inside a Compaq Deskpro XE 466). It would help. Thanks a lot for developing the concept and prelim SW. Paxton Astoria, OR

23 years

Apple IIe for $700

by jrkeys＠concentric.net

Another crazy price for an Apple IIe??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2168296821

23 years

PIP problem solved on Apple ][ CP/M

by vcf＠siconic.com

I was finally able to devote some time to my Apple CP/M issues and figured it out. It turns out that the version of MS CP/M that I'm using has got the device identifiers correct, even though Steve Hirsch warned that they were reversed in Microsoft's implementation. I apparently have a version where it is fixed. I first connected up my laptop to the Super Serial Card in slot #2 and then tried to PIP RDR:=B:file. I got a message to the effect that the RDR: device cannot be written to. Then I tried to get slick and use STAT to change the RDR: device to what PUN: was pointed to. That didn't work. Then I decided to just try PIPing to the PUN: device and it took, but I didn't see anything across the serial port. A little more digging and reading and I verified that, as Steve said, the Apple ][ CP/M standard is for a serial card in slot 2. In fact, the documentation I read indicated that the hardware configuration pretty much matches that of Apple Pascal. So I did a STAT DEV: to show me what devices were connected where. RDR: was set to PTR: and PUN: was set to :PTP (presumably Paper Tape Reader and Paper Tape Punch respectively). So then I did a STAT VAL: to see what the possible connections were for each device. PUN: could be TTY: PTP: UP1: UP2: I thought for a second and then figured it would be worth a try to see if UP2: stood for the device in slot 2. Sure enough it did, and when I tried a PIP to PUN: it worked. So I was able to PIP the files directly from disk over the serial port to my laptop. Very convenient. There apparently is a utility that allows you to copy files from CP/M disks to Apple DOS disks but it must have come on a DOS utility disk that I just don't have. I'm sure KERMIT or some sort of X-modem protocol was written that would have made this a lot easier, but I seem to have misplaced my Apple CP/M disks. Oh well. At least I know how it's done, and this can serve as quick docs for someone attempting to do the same in the future. -- Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org * Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *

23 years

Odessey 1 (was Re: Fw: Game console up to $200)

by cb＠mythtech.net

>I've had one these since I was a kid, but I've never seen the rifle >or the boxed games before. I've never seen boxed games, but then A: I was pretty young when I used to play with mine, (and I believe it predates me in existance), and B: I have a feeling mine was never obtained via the market, but rather as a test item directly from Magnavox, so it may never have been complete with market packaging (I know I have a white labeled box that the system and controllers and stuff goes in, I'm assuming that was standard packaging). As for the rifle. I don't remember everything it was used for, but I know I LOVED the haunted house game that used it. There was a haunted house overlay, and basically "ghosts" appeared at various windows and doors and you had to shoot them. (IIRC, the ghosts were nothing more than white blocks, but hey, for early 70's that kicked ass!) -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

23 years

HP 5036A microprocessor lab

by distante＠teleline.es

Hi Stuart, I'd seen your ad at: http://www.classiccmp.org/pipermail/cctech/2003-January/009065.html asking for the manual of the HP 5036A microprocessor lab. Have you got it ?? I also have one and also searching for a manual. There's no way to find it. Cheers Jose Madrid-Spain

23 years

US Gov't/Navy DEC clearout

by alanp＠snowmoose.com

DRMO is the group at a US military base responsible for taking care of surplused equipment. Some of it ends up being auctioned, for example, through web sites like www.govliquidation.com. Some of it ends up disposed of as scrap. alan ---Original Message--- From: cctech(a)classiccmp.org To: cctech@classiccmp.org,cctalk@classiccmp.org Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:05:15 -0000 Subject: RE: US Gov't/Navy DEC clearout Hi folks, Got this from a contractor working for the navy; how he found me before he found any other place that collects DEC stuff I don't know :) Replies to email address he's given me (suttonmr(a)navair.navy.mil), particularly as I don't know what the DRMO is! Pity there won't be any disks in that haul 'cos I could really do with some RZ29Bs....oh well. 'Course, it might also just be PCs. ------ realname: CECIL FINLEY email: ccfinley(a)bellsouth.net message: I'm a contractor for the US gov't and they are in the process of getting rid of a load of DEC equipement. You could get these items through the DRMO, but you'd have to pick them up and ship them personally. Contact: suttonmr(a)navair.navy.mil for further details. ------ cheers -- adrian/witchy www.binarydinosaurs.co.uk - the online computer museum www.snakebiteandblack.co.uk - monthly gothic shenanigans

23 years

hmmm... oldish booklet

by geoffr＠zipcon.com

I was digging through some old paperwork I had laying around and found a copy of "Radio Shack Introduces the world of computers" from 1977

23 years

Quadram "Golden Quadboard"

by zorba＠mbari.org

Hello - I got your email address from a websearch - you seen to know about the Quadram Quadboard. I have a "Golden Quadboard", what the difference is between this and the regular variety - I don't know. However, I'd really like to be able to use the real time clock, is there a setclock program, and a readclock that sets the DOS clock from the board at bootup? Do you have any idea where I could get programs like these? Any help would be appreciated! Thanx! -Zorba

23 years

TrantorMini SCSI Epp

by xdale＠yahoo.com

Hi Fred: You Wrote:Trantor was bought out by Adaptec. You might try them. There were three models that I'm aware of: T338 (rectangular thin box) that hangs off of the parallel port, or screw it on so that it gets enough leverage to break the connector. The black labelled earlier sub-model is significantly less reliablke than the later blue labelled one. Also marketed briefly through NEC (they once had the drivers on the web) T348 cable based model. T358 cable based model with ECP/EPP support NONE of them are very reliable; but it's a handy way to hook things up to laptops, etc that don't have provision for a "real" SCSI controller. Would you like me to snail mail a copy of the disk? Or would you prefer e-mail attachment? COULD YOU KINDLY SEND ME THAT DRIVER AS AN ATTACHMENT IN REPLYIN TO THIS EMAIL? THANKS Doug Crosdale The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.

23 years

B&C microsystems UP200 software

by yarnhook＠charter.net

I am in need of software for the UP200 programmer. LMK if you have it and could send me a copy via email. Just picked up a unit and want to get programming. Thanks, Stan

23 years

5.25" drive identification

by alhartman＠yahoo.com

> From: dlormand(a)aztecfreenet.org (DAVID L. ORMAND) > > I have been told (by an IT professional, take that > for what it's worth) that 5.25" 360K drives have > the latch handle on the left side of the drive, and > the 1.2M drives have it on the right side. All the > drives I have in view right now, this is true. > > Anybody have a notion of whether this is absolutely > true in fact? You've already gotten an answer from others on the list on this. LOL! > It sure would make sorting drives easier than > trying them out on an old peecee! (Which actually > needs to be done anyways, to test for > functionality.) A rule of thumb I use, but I won't swear is universal... Is the LED color. USUALLY... Red LED signifies 360k/180k Drives, and a Green LED signifies 1.2mb Drives. And I also think that as for IBM Drives, the 360k at one point were made with and Asterisk molded into the front case. I could have this reverse. But, I seem to remember some discussion (perhaps here) that someone thought it was odd that IBM would start adding the asterisk to 360k Drives, hence having some with and some without, rather than just making all 1.2mb drives with asterisks. I may have this one reversed though. But, I've used the LED color as a good indicator for years. Also, if you look at the jumpers on the logic board, near the drive select jumpers... A 1.2mb drive should have a Speed Select Jumper (SS) to select High speed Data Transfer to work on AT-Standard Floppy Controllers, and low speed (for what? I don't know... Maybe to work on an 8in Drive Controller?) So, that's another indication of whether the drive is high or low density. Regards, Al Hartman The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo http://search.yahoo.com

23 years

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