test-drb

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

101090 discussions

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "John Allain" <allain(a)panix.com> > >Here's a pretty damn dumb question. > Can 5v regulators just be stacked up to get > more than 100mA? > One possibility is that the weakest one would > go first, then the rest after it's dead. > >John A. > Hi John There are ways to parallel these but most cause either loss of voltage regulation or current hogging. The the TO-220 packages are designed to handle 1 amp but for any of these, you need to consider heat sinking and total power drop. You may find that power drop will over load before current is reached. Most newer regulators are designed to both thermal and current shutdown safely. Like anything that is being stressed, running like this for a long time tends to shorten their life. Also, paralleling can cause oscillations. Especially if not all the regulators are running near their maximum levels. Proper bypassing is more critical when doing this. Dwight

22 years, 11 months

Sage-II

by paul＠grumpy.co.uk

Hi guys, Anyone got one of these beasties? I picked it up last year or the year before, in one of those daft runaway auctions, obviously ending up paying way more than it was worth. Unfortunately there was no OS with it, so it's currently a small, oblong shaped doorstop. Can anyone help me? Cheers, Paul.

22 years, 11 months

Removing duct tape residue.

by rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com

At 05:06 AM 1/29/03 -0600, Toth wrote: > >> For cleaning computer plastics, the absolute best product I've found (in >> the US) is Hoppe's No. 9 Powder Solvent. Found at your local sporting >> goods store. Even removes PERMANENT Sharpie. > >Has anyone tried removing Sharpie from a chassis with textured paint? I >have a couple of items that were marked up with a Sharpie, and short of >paint thinner (which seems to dilute and bury the ink in the paint while >damaging the texture), I've found nothing that seems to work. I've used alcohol on that stuff and it seems to remove some but not all of it. I've never found anything that would remove it completely. Joe

22 years, 11 months

Can anyone tellme why a Name plate goes for over $135

by jrkeys＠concentric.net

This Apple II name plate sold for over $135 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2729182422

22 years, 11 months

Data transfer from Apple ][ to PC

by cb＠mythtech.net

>I've got 2 IIgs' here, a ROM 00 one signed by the man himself and a ROM 03 >one. This means I only need a Shiva bridge....:) *hint to Mike Ford :o))* Do you not have access to a Mac built before the switch to USB? If you do, just use the serial localtalk port on it and skip using a bridge entirely, unless you have some reason that you need to go to Ethernet with the IIgs. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

22 years, 11 months

Did you guys ever find a source for any TIL306's?

by wa7duy＠charter.net

Hello Joe. I ran across your message at http://www.classiccmp.org/pipermail/cctech/2003-January/007306.html about the TIL306. Did you or Toth ever find any TIL306's? I am also looking for some (8 of them to be exact) and like you and Toth have been able to find several TIL311's but no TIL306's. Thank you. Jim Pruitt http://www.classiccmp.org/pipermail/cctech/2003-January/007306.html and http://www.classiccmp.org/pipermail/cctech/2003-January/007252.html substitute for TI TIL306/307 Display? Joe cctech(a)classiccmp.org Mon Jan 6 01:37:30 2003 a.. Previous message: substitute for TI TIL306/307 Display? b.. Next message: Pinout for EECO Tape Reader? c.. Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ] ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- At 01:18 AM 1/4/03 -0600, you wrote: > >I have the datasheet for the 311 in pdf format if you'd like me to email >it to you. The 311 has a built-in BCD decoder, but not a counter, like the >306/307. I need the counter function but I'd like a copy of the PDF anyway. > >> > I'll make a note to check a couple of my local surplus dealers over >> > the next few weeks. If I find any TIL306 displays, I'll pick them up. >> > Should I also hunt for any 307s? >> >> 306's or 307s will work equally well. The one difference between them is >> that one has the decimal point to the left of the digit and the other >> has the dp on the right. My unit doesn't use the decimal points so >> either display will work fine. > >Ok, thats what I wanted to be sure of. Often devices didn't use the >decimal points, but I didn't want to assume that was the case. > >> > If all else fails, would it be possible to salvage your displays? I've >> > carefully ground back ceramic and plastic on other dip components to >> > attach replacement leads in the past, but it isn't a fun task... >> >> It's possible but all the leads on them are weak and I'd probably have >> to eventually replace ALL the leads. > >Been there, done that. I have a pile of early 74244s and other 7400 series >logic chips that have nearly nothing left of their leads due to the foam >that were stored in for roughly 15-20 years. Same here. I squirreled away a lot of parts over the years but found that many of them were damaged due to the foam. Fortunately I've get some pretty good scrap sources and I've been finding lots of military grade cards with socketed ICs in the last couple of years so I've been picking them up and pulling the ICs and storing them in parts cabinets. I've amassed a huge stock in just the last year. I was also lucky last year and picked up a good number of parts cabinets that have all the drawers made out of anti-static material. I had been keeping the parts in anti-static foam for AS protestion but now I don't have to. .Thankfully, the TIL311s and >most of the other chips that came in the same batch of parts didn't have >the same problem, though their leads had to be cleaned. I have a fair number of 308 and 311 displays that I've pulled from cards and the local surplus place has plenty of them but the 306/307s seem to be scarce. Joe > >-Toth > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- a.. Previous message: substitute for TI TIL306/307 Display? b.. Next message: Pinout for EECO Tape Reader? c.. Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ]

22 years, 11 months

Removing duct tape residue.

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Peter Turnbull" <pete(a)dunnington.u-net.com> > >On May 16, 15:28, Joe wrote: >> MEK has all but been banned in the US and is just about impossible >for an >> individual to obtain. Besides it EATS plastic! > >I believe it's still commonly used for certain industrial processes. > Yes, it does attack plastic -- that's it's principal use :-) Ditto >for actone. > >-- >Pete Peter Turnbull > Network Manager > University of York > Hi I used to use it to remove conformal(sp?) coating. It didn't dissolve it but softened it enough to be peeled off. It would have to soak for about ten minutes to even do that. Dwight

22 years, 11 months

Duct-tape residue

by jontitus＠attbi.com

To remove the residue from non-water-soluble adhesives left behind by masking tape, labels, duct tape, electrical tape, etc., I've used xylene or xylol with good results. You can find this fluid sold under the brand names "Goof Off," or "Oops!" in the paint sections of hardware stores. (It removed latex-based paint drips or "slop" from trim, baseboards, floors, etc.) Some hardware stores may sell plain xylene, too. Use outdoors, and try it on any material before going all out. It will dissolve some plastics such as polystyrene. As a fallback, you can use denatured ethyl alcohol (ethanol). Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol, a.k.a. isopropanol) as sold in pharmacies contains a lot of water and it doesn't do a good job. Jon Jon Titus 36 Sunset Drive Milford, MA 01757-1362 USA Phone: +1-508-478-8040 E-mail: jontitus(a)attbi.com Member, National Association of Science Writers

22 years, 11 months

Leaving the hobby

by charlesmorris＠direcway.com

> I am leaving the hobby/lifestyle of classic computing. There's a classic computing LIFESTYLE??? No one told me! How do I get one? > I will not participate in any discussion of the reason. OK, so we will just speculate wildly and discuss it without you ;) > The decision has been made. Sounds like someone decided for you. Best of luck, anyway. When I'm tired of my PDP-8, Sinclair ZX-81, VIC-20, Apple //e, etc. I just put them back in the closet for a while. -Charles

22 years, 11 months

Mac Classic

by tferkle＠comcast.net

I have two, fully funtional, Mac Classic's that I want to sell. Anyone interested? thomas.m.ferkle(a)lmco.com

22 years, 11 months

Preserving ancient media

by Paul.HILLS＠landisgyr.com

Answering my own question, (and if anyone else is interested), there is a utility here: http://www.alphalink.com.au/~edsa/#kcs that will make WAV files ine Kansas City Standard, or CUTS standard, from any input file, that can be recorded to a tape. It can also decode audio WAV files into data. Comes with documentation too, and looks pretty good. paul -----Original Message----- From: David Holland [mailto:dholland@woh.rr.com] Sent: 17 May 2003 02:36 To: Classic Computer Talk Subject: RE: Preserving ancient media The following MIGHT be a good place to start: http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Ridge/9965/ ZXTAPE 3.0 Its directed towards the zx81, but it could be applicable to your application. Dunno. I've a feeling every computers tape format is different, though. David On Tue, 2003-05-13 at 03:25, Hills, Paul wrote: > I have quite a bit of software on cassette tapes for 1980s home computers. > Does anyone know of a simple method (without having to design and build > myself a dual-tone decoder circuit + write suitable PC software) of getting > this information onto a PC? I guess the home computer emulator pages on the > web must have done this. > > Maybe I could record it as a WAV file then write a program to decode the > WAV? Or would MP3 encoding be capable of compressing and reliable expanding > the audio data (MP3 is of course designed to compress music which these > squeaks and whistles clearly are not, even if they lie within the audio > spectrum!). > > paul

22 years, 11 months

In search of Christopher Willis

by a.cranston＠selwaymoore.com

And you can reverse your vehicle up steep sand dunes too (see Ice Cold in Alex :-) -----Original Message----- From: Feldman, Robert [mailto:Robert_Feldman@jdedwards.com] Sent: 19 May 2003 15:08 To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org Subject: RE: In search of Christopher Willis My '73 Toyota Land Cruiser Station Wagon had a starting crank. -----Original Message----- From: Tony Duell [mailto:ard@p850ug1.demon.co.uk] Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2003 6:01 PM To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org Subject: Re: In search of Christopher Willis > The newest car that I've had that had a crank was a 1958 VW pickup, > although the U.S. models stopped in the early 50s. But the parts were I am pretty sure that UK Land Rovers had the starting handle at least until the late 1970s... The series 3 workshop manual shows the special dog bolt anyway. The starting handle makes some maintenance jobs (setting the valve clearances and the static ignition timing, for example) a lot easier too... -tony _____________________________________________________________________ This message has been checked for all known viruses by the Selway Moore Ltd (www.selwaymoore.com) scanning service, powered by MessageLabs. For further information visit http://www.messagelabs.com/stats.asp ________________________________________________________________________ ** Please note our new address for all correspondence and deliveries: ** Selway Moore House 169 Basingstoke Road Reading RG2 0DY Selway Moore Solutions t +44(0)118 903 7907 f +44(0)118 903 7908 Selway Moore Limited Recycle division sales t +44(0)118 903 7903 f +44(0)118 903 7904 Corporate and admin t +44(0)118 903 7900 f +44(0)118 903 7901 For our latest news http://www.selwaymoore.com/modules/news/index.cfm ________________________________________________________________________ This message has been checked for all known viruses by the Selway Moore scanning service powered by MessageLabs. For further information and statistics on current viruses visit http://www.messagelabs.com/stats.asp

22 years, 11 months

MEK

by vance＠neurotica.com

I checked... I can't seem to find any government controls on MEK in the U.S. anywhere. And the MSDS reads essentially identically to the one for Acetone. Peace... Sridhar

22 years, 11 months

MEK

by vance＠neurotica.com

I'm wrong. That was MEK-P. Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide. Peace... Sridhar

22 years, 11 months

MEK

by charlesmorris＠direcway.com

On Sun, 18 May 2003 02:22:02 -0500, you wrote: >MEK has all but been banned in the US and is just about impossible for an >individual to obtain. Besides it EATS plastic! > > Joe I bought a gallon can of it at Home Depot last fall. They also sell acetone, muriatic acid, and plenty of other "nasty" chemicals. -Charles

22 years, 11 months

In search of Christopher Willis

by Robert_Feldman＠jdedwards.com

My '73 Toyota Land Cruiser Station Wagon had a starting crank. -----Original Message----- From: Tony Duell [mailto:ard@p850ug1.demon.co.uk] Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2003 6:01 PM To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org Subject: Re: In search of Christopher Willis > The newest car that I've had that had a crank was a 1958 VW pickup, > although the U.S. models stopped in the early 50s. But the parts were I am pretty sure that UK Land Rovers had the starting handle at least until the late 1970s... The series 3 workshop manual shows the special dog bolt anyway. The starting handle makes some maintenance jobs (setting the valve clearances and the static ignition timing, for example) a lot easier too... -tony

22 years, 11 months

anybody here have a HP 8752 or 8753 Network Analyzer?

by rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com

Just what the title says. Joe

22 years, 11 months

Can anyone tellme why a Name plate goes for over $135

by cb＠mythtech.net

>This Apple II name plate sold for over $135 >http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2729182422 Didn't you read the auction... it sold for that high because it is "Super Rare". Now, if it was a name plate with the case still attached, that isn't so rare... but to find just the name place sans case in the wild... wow! I hope my sarcasm isn't too strong. I'd maybe do a better job of making it clear, but I'm a little busy with my pocket knife trying to pry the name plates off some of my Apple II gear! -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

22 years, 11 months

Leaving the hobby

by loedman1＠juno.com

On Sat, 17 May 2003 Rich wrote: >> my collection at over $10,000, including my Kaypro 10 at $2,500, a PS2 at >> $1,500 and a 9 pin Epson at $160. The current wife is an electrician To which Sellam added, >Don't you know you're only supposed to brag about what your collection is >worth to other geeks? And Rich responded, I know, but sometimes it is necessary to grossly inflate the value in order to be allowed to enter the house with the latest "find". Oh and the word she used was most definitely not "geek", but then again I suppose that I should not have called her the C word in open court, but the more chins than a Chinese phone book comment did make the judge laugh. Rich

22 years, 11 months

Leaving the hobby

by cb＠mythtech.net

>I know, but sometimes it is necessary to grossly inflate the value in >order to be allowed to enter the house with the latest "find". Oh and the >word she used was most definitely not "geek", but then again I suppose >that I should not have called her the C word in open court, but the more >chins than a Chinese phone book comment did make the judge laugh. Lesson to be learned (besides being civil in court), always claim the most worthless item in the collection is the most valuable. That way she runs off with easily replaced junk and leaves all the real good stuff behind. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

22 years, 11 months

Removing duct tape residue.

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On May 17, 9:20, Chad Fernandez wrote: > I don't know if it's full strength or not..... what would it be thinned > with? I'll look too. I'm curiuos now. I need to go to Lowes any way > to buy a dust pan and broom for the basement. I wouldn't expect it would be "thinned" with anything. For use as a plastic cement, it's usually thickened by dissolving ABS or PVC in it. Pure MEK is a very light colourless liquid. -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

22 years, 11 months

Infotek Info RE: HP 9000 300 data acquisition card - Infotek AD200

by rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com

Peter, Did you ever find out anything about this card, other than the technical description that someone posted? I THOUGHT I might have a manual for it and I went looking for it today but didn't find it. (I'm still looking). However I did find an Infotek manual for a 2Mb memory board for the 9000 200s. It says that Infotek is a division of ALS Corporation and their address was 1400 N Baxter St, Anaheim, California. This manual is dated 1985 so they may or may not still be around but it might help in your search. I think there are several list members in that area, maybe you can get one of them to search locally. I have several Infotech devices including ROMs for the 9825, 9845, a memory card for the HP IPC and a couple of these 2Mb cards for the 9000 200 computers so I'd like to try and track them down too. One thing that prompted me to look for the manual is that I'm working with Bob Shannon on HP 1000s and he has a card for the 1000 that sounds like it's exactly the same thing in a different form factor. Even the specs look the same. We're trying to figure out how to program, trigger and read it and I'm guessing that that will be the same for both HP cards and your Infotek card. Joe > >Peter, > > What kind of terminal(s) does it have? It sounds like it might be a A/D or perhaps a D/A card. HP made some A/Ds I think I have some docs on it somewhere. I used to have one the cards I never got around doing anything with it. I never even pulled it out of the machine so I don't know if it was made by HP or if it was made by someone else. IIRC it had a row of screw terminal on the back side of it. I looked through the manual for the HP A/D card at one time and I don't think it took any special software. The system treated it somewhat like a GPIO card but the digital value that was input was converted from the analog input. If you output a digital value to the card it selected the channel number (12 channels as I recall) and range. If you think your card may be a A/D, I'll try to find the docs that I have. > > I forgot to ask, is this a DIO card? > > Joe > >At 09:47 PM 5/3/03 +0000, you wrote: >>Hi All, >> >>I've just acquired an HP 9000 series R332. In the back of it amongst the >>usual HPIB / GPIB cards there is a card marked Infotek Systems AD200 >>Converter, \ Assy 900-13992 rev E - I assume that this is some sort of data >>acquisition card. >> >>Does anyone have details of the card specification / the software required >>to drive it? >> >>Cheers >> >>Peter Brown >> >>_________________________________________________________________ >>It's fast, it's easy and it's free. Get MSN Messenger today! >>http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

22 years, 11 months

Sage-II

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On May 18, 22:51, Tony Duell wrote: > I have the same problem. I also have a Sage II but no OS. I think it can > run the UCSD P-system or CP/M-68K, but I've not found either for it yet. As I said earlier, I have UCSD p-System disks. I just realised I also have Teledisk images of CP/M-68K for it, which I think Don Maslin sent me the last time this came up on the list. -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

22 years, 11 months

Leaving the hobby

by loedman1＠juno.com

"R. D. Davis" <rdd(a)rddavis.org> observed, >Incorrect response to such a wife: "Yes dear." [wimpily spoken] >Correct response to such a wife: "You're right, we're not taking it >with us, I'm taking it with me. Either you're coming with me, or you >aren't. Make up your mind." [spoken very matter of factly and calmly, >then just let any arguments, shouting, screeching, etc. go in one ear >and out the other] My first wife called this bluff and left, leaving me with the son and all the bills. She filed property settlement papers that placed the value of my collection at over $10,000, including my Kaypro 10 at $2,500, a PS2 at $1,500 and a 9 pin Epson at $160. The current wife is an electrician with a case of "Pack rat syndrome" equal to mine. The only classic related disagreements we have are over whose turn it is to use the ancient ones and how nice it would be to get 1/2 of the spare room for her stuff, I tell her that she can have the bottom 1/2. Rich

22 years, 11 months

Running PCs on 12v

by rcini＠optonline.net

Joe: >> >> Any chance of using 48VDC? There's plenty of surplus industrial PCs (and >>PSUs) that run off of that. I've often wondered if you couldn't run a PC >>directly off of 12VDC (with a regulator to drop one line to 5VDC). I saw a lot of these in my usual surplus catalogs but producing 48v from batteries of a sufficient amperage is a bulky proposition. I envision a small cordura camera bag filled with two surplus 12v 7ah lead acid batteries (in parallel) and some switching gear for the scope and the PC. I also looked at some of the mobile MP3 projects but the most suitable solution was $150 and didn't have the right amperage ratings. I don't know...maybe I'm looking for something that really doesn't exist. I really wanted to avoid building my own supply, though. Rich Collector of classic computers Build Master for the Altair32 Emulation Project Web site: http://highgate.comm.sfu.ca/~rcini/classiccmp/ /************************************************************/

22 years, 11 months

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