The uIEC/SD I bought from Jim Brain was delivered Friday night (USPS
was actually unable to deliver for several days in our area). My
mail is currently going to a different location than we're living, so
I picked it up yesterday, and retrieved my customized C64 from
storage, and got everything plugged in last night (this was the first
time we'd been able to get our car out of the driveway in over two
weeks).
Once I figured out how to use it, all I can say it is seriously cool,
way better than my MMC-Replay for dealing with D64 images, and it was
a lot cheaper! I'm even able to use it with the MMC-Replay plugged
in so I have my Ethernet connection. With the MMC-Replay I was only
able to get one or two D64 images to work, with the uIEC most I've
tried have worked. I've been playing "Temple of Apshai" all day and
having a blast! :-)
Now to decide if I put it in some sort of case, or if I mount it
inside the C64 somehow.
Zane
--
| Zane H. Healy | UNIX Systems Administrator |
| healyzh at aracnet.com (primary) | OpenVMS Enthusiast |
| MONK::HEALYZH (DECnet) | Classic Computer Collector |
+----------------------------------+----------------------------+
| Empire of the Petal Throne and Traveller Role Playing, |
| PDP-10 Emulation and Zane's Computer Museum. |
| http://www.aracnet.com/~healyzh/ |
The SX-64 box has been claimed. This is the next one up. Same deal,
free for cost of shipping (I'll ship it in a larger box so the PO
doesn't mar up the fine Atari graphics) from 60074.
--
silent700.blogspot.com
Retrocomputing and collecting in the Chicago area:
http://chiclassiccomp.org
> Roger Holmes wrote:
>
> A couple of [keypunch drums] have come up on eBay in the last five
> years and both went for silly money which to me means there are
> more keypunches than drums.
That's one interpretation, but it just considers the scarceness factor.
You also have to figure in the saneness factor. If you want a punched
card era memorabilis, a drum is a heck of a lot easier to ship, store
and display than a whole keypunch machine.
Nope, not "box" as in slang for "computer" or "machine." This is just
the cardboard box (well ok, also the Styrofoam inserts and a plastic
bag) that the SX-64 came in. No serious collector should be without
one! Apparently, I'm not as serious as I thought, because I've got
three SX-64s (each broken in some unique way) and I've decided the box
takes up too much space. None of them matched the serial # on the
box, anyway.
So if anyone wants it, it's free for the cost of shipping from 60074
(or if you're local, come pick it up.) Please give it a home. Even
though I've got to shrink my collection and reclaim storage space, I
still can't let something as simple as an old cardboard box go to the
landfill.
-j
--
silent700.blogspot.com
Retrocomputing and collecting in the Chicago area:
http://chiclassiccomp.org
>I was checking in case they fitted my ASR33 but it uses narrower ones.
>I see lots of Teletype paper and paper tape on eBay but never ASR/KSR/
>RO 33 ribbons. Probably easy to get if you know what to ask the
>suppliers for.
>
Teletype ribbons are standard typewriter ribbons of the type with rivets
/eyelets at the end to automatically change the ribbon feed direction.
Should not be difficult to find. Ones with Teletype on the box
occasionally show up on ebay but I haven't seen one go by recently.
The Okidata Microline 80 etc ribbons are the style you need for an ASR33
and may be easier to find in a search.
Random matches from search
http://www.officesupplyoutfitters.com/okidataml80.htmlhttp://cgi.ebay.com/Okidata-Microline-80-82-92-Ribbons-Qty-7_W0QQitemZ26015…
Hi everyone. I'd like to add a mac iifx and a later model apple iie
(or possibly a 2gs) to my collection. I might also be interested in a
mac cube, a working IBM PC-AT (5170), or maybe more amiga hardware I
don't have. For trade, I can offer up a working amiga 2000 with a
hard drive (sans keyboard and mouse probably). I also have some video
editing hardware that I believe is from the late 80s or early 90s. I
have three giant professional JVC (iirc) VCRs, two playback and one
record. I also have what I think is an abner 2 editing controller and
a FOR-A FA740 time based corrector. I have no idea how to use the
video editing stuff. This came out of a working video editing lab.
I'm in the north suburbs of chicago. Let me know if you're
interested. Maybe we can work something out. Thanks.
brian
I don't know. You can use electrolysis to derust metal (loads of links available). Is there a similar process for other types of oxidation?
--- On Mon, 1/19/09, Teo Zenios <teoz at neo.rr.com> wrote:
Can't you buy an Aluminum Oxide stripper?
Well there's been some discussion about this. It is possible to *charge* a surface w/an abrasive, but usually this happens as a result of 2 metal surfaces coming into somewhat vigorous contact, w/an intervening abrasive. By comparison I would have to think the adverse effects are minor, but it might be a valid concern. I would think to make tiny flecks of metal or other substance imbed in a surface, you'd have to push pretty hard. But some loose particles could catch on porous surfaces possibly, though I'm not sure they'd tend to stick there permanently. But who knows.
?I have asked how you could test a surface to see if it was charged w/particles, but thus far no answers. Perhaps some type of fine paper or plastic if rubbed on the surface would alert to the presence of icky stuff. But then again how would you distinguish that from the jagged surfaces of metal itself?
--- On Mon, 1/19/09, William Donzelli <wdonzelli at gmail.com> wrote:
From: William Donzelli <wdonzelli at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oxidation
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Date: Monday, January 19, 2009, 10:22 AM
-----Inline Attachment Follows-----
> Steel wool?
No, using steel wool on many other metals will later result in more
corrosion. Steel wool leaves behind tiny bits of metal embedded in the
metal, and these can cause problems if there is enough moisture.
--
Will
gingerly. Fine steel wool (uh, #000 or #0000) is available at craft stores. Scotch Bright pads also. Use a lubricant, light oil (even cooking/vegatable oils), or paint thinner/mineral spirits, even water (like when you wet sand a paint job). Be careful of the refuse that will result. I'm not familiar w/this equipment, might need to do some dismantling. Rinse the surfaces thoroughly. I'm no expert..
--- On Mon, 1/19/09, Roy J. Tellason <rtellason at verizon.net> wrote:
From: Roy J. Tellason <rtellason at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Oxidation
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Date: Monday, January 19, 2009, 8:28 AM
-----Inline Attachment Follows-----
On Sunday 18 January 2009 11:23:42 pm Mike Loewen wrote:
>? ???I'm in the process of rejuvenating an IBM model 29 keypunch, and a
> couple of areas have some sort of oxidation on them.? The card drum is the
> worst:
>
> http://sturgeon.css.psu.edu/~mloewen/CardDrum.jpg
>
>? ???The steel parts are fine, but the rest has a white material over most
> of it.? I'm not sure what sort of metal it is, looks a bit dark for
> aluminum but the white material looks similar to aluminum oxidation.
I'll bet that stuff's galvanized (zinc-plated).
> What's a good approach to cleaning it up?
Steel wool?
--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space,? a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed.? --Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin
This is a short story about getting data off an old xenix pc. delete
now if that is not interesting :-)
A while ago friend brought over an old pc which was dead. It's a 386
Compaq, very old. It had been running xenix and it was never turned off
but one day the power failed. When the power came back it would not
boot - the clock battery was long since dead and had lost it's disk
setup.
Inside is a 386 with about 4mb of ram and a Compaq ESDI controller. And
a dead Dallas clock chip.
I dremel tooled the Dallas clock chip and soldered in a new battery
pack. I got a floppy disk image to reset the bios from someone here
(thanks!) But despite many tries it would not boot. The diag program
would not let me set the disk parameters exactly the way they needed to
be set. most frustrating.
So, I yanked the controller (ESDI), changed the jumpers and put
it in another old pc which had linux on it. I booted linux and
gave it the disk geometry via the command line ("hdc=1224,15,34")
Once in linux I made an image of the disk using dd. It turns out that
the "conv=" option is very important. I used "conv=noerrors,notrunc,sync".
Originally I use "conv=noerrors" and the resulting image was bad because
the disk had errors.
dd conv=noerrors,notrunc,sync if=/dev/hdc of=disk.img
I then put the resulting disk image on another linux box and wrote a
tiny C program to search for valid sysv super blocks. It found 3. I
then used "dd" to copy part of the image, with an offset (the start of
the first superblock), to a new file.
dd if=disk.img of=d4 bs=512 skip=2040
With that I had a valid sysv file system in a single file. I then
mounted the new file using the loopback option:
mount d4 /mnt -t sysv -o loop
and viola! I could see all the files and could make a tar file of
the root directory.
Flush with success (don't you just love it when things actually work? :-)
I decided to try and boot it. I used a recent copy of qemu and told
it the geometry of the original disk
qemu -hdachs 1000,15,34 -boot c -hda disk.img
Much to my shock, it booted xenix, cleaned the file system and gave me a
login prompt.
Now I just have to clean up the mess in my office :-) Man that thing
had a lot of dust and dirt in it.
-brad
>Roy J. Tellason (rtellason at verizon.net) wrote:
>Ah, THAT was the missing piece...
>Now I understand what the concern is with this stuff!
Right - the issue is with the original PDU, which Ian specifically said
they did not rewire. That means one neutral, both inside the PDU, in the
power cord, and in the power plug. The loads inside the 780 (which are
single phase, as Ian said) have nothing to do with the issue.
So, the 780 PDU has a three phase wye power cord (five conductors,
including ground). I'm betting that they have a 220V split phase circuit to
run it from, so they've wired two of the three phases together for one side
of the 220V circuit, and the third phase to the other side. Best case,
assuming the loads inside the 780 are balanced, that would make the neutral
current the same as one of the phase currents.
But that's not really a safe situation - if any of the internal loads
within the 780 is turned off, disconnected, or blows its own breaker, then
the neutral current will _increase_ due to the imbalance. Worst case in
this situation the neutral current would be 2x normal. They probably get
away with this because the PDU isn't loaded to anywhere near it's rated
capacity.
And let's hope they really aren't running it from three separate circuits
on the same phase.
Were it my 780, I'd rewire the PDU to be 220V split phase (just
redistribute the third phase's outlets amongst the other two). The result
would only have 2/3rds the current carrying capacity of the original, but
it'd be a safe arrangement.
Bob
>
>> Ian King (IanK at vulcan.com) wrote:
>> We *are* running the machine off three separate 110V single-phase
>> circuits
> -
>> apparently you missed that part.
>
> People need to understand the danger in this - in any multiphase
> power
> system, the neutral current is the DIFFERENCE of the current in the
> individual phases. If the load is perfectly balanced, then the
> neutral
> current will be zero.
>
> But, if you run the same load from three separate single phase
> circuits
> and (worst case) the three circuits are all the same phase, then the
> neutral
> current will be the SUM of all three phase currents. That's 3 times
> what it
> would be otherwise and runs a serious danger of melting the neutral
> and
> starting a fire.
I agree with all but the last bit, because if he's running it from
three separate supplies, surely he will have three neutral conductors,
so no problem.
Roger Holmes
(Who has a 440v three phase computer drawing 13kVA which has three
phase bridge rectifiers to generate fairly ripple free DC)
-- "Chuck Guzis" <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
On 19 Jan 2009 at 3:15, jeff.kaneko at juno.com wrote:
>> I don't bother fixing Nokia wall-warts, for example. I do have
>> one here on my desk made for Motorola (13.5V @1500mA), though,
>> that has been taped together. I do what I have to to keep stuff
>> working around here . . . .
>
>I wonder if you could fuse the pieces back together with a little
>methylene chloride...
Oh yeah, also MEK, Brake Part Cleaner, 'Super Glue' :^P. But then
I'd have to split it again if I pop the fuse again. If I *really*
worry about the mechanical integrity, I use a zip tie . . .
____________________________________________________________
Click now and find huge savings on quality rechargeable batteries.
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-- "Teo Zenios" <teoz at neo.rr.com> wrote:
>> I probably should try to repair the ones that have switchers in
>> 'em, but I have neither the time nor the expertise . . . (sigh).
>
>I toss mine and get them from the local thrift for $1 or so, can't >stand split open plastic cases.
Actually, I don't like it either, but alot of times I have to
deal with wall-warts that either have strange voltages, strange
plugs, or a particularly high current rating. These usually aren't
readily available at the local thrift (although I have gotten
lucky).
I don't bother fixing Nokia wall-warts, for example. I do have
one here on my desk made for Motorola (13.5V @1500mA), though,
that has been taped together. I do what I have to to keep stuff
working around here . . . .
____________________________________________________________
Click to get free information on how to copy DVD's.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2oHlnHrAuwX0fE4ZNUDUYIuz0…
Referred here by Lord Nightmare...
I have a Princeton Graphics 12" CGA monitor, as well as a bunch of old 486 motherboards, CPUs, cases, PSUs, memory, etc. that I don't need/want. They are free to anyone willing to pick them up in West Orange, NJ. Please contact me at jay_k_wood at yahoo.com as I don't subscribe to this list.
----
"If I want to be free from any other man's dictation, I must understand that I can have no other man under my control." -- William Graham Sumner (1840-1910)
I've got a superfluous 600lpm Fujitsu band printer that would like a new home. Currently located in Niskayuna, NY 12309.
It's a big printer, and pretty heavy. I can get exact measurements if anyone needs them, but it's bigger than a washing machine. Wide carriage, 132 columns, and as far as I know, it works - it worked last time it was used, and probably even got a tuneup at the time. This was kept as a spare for a customer that used one. Problem is, that the customer's printer never really broke. These things are workhorses. I hate to see it get scrapped, but I just don't need it, and don't have space to store it.
Give your cats a nice, humming, warm place to sleep! Adopt a line printer today!
-Ian
I don't find it at all surprising that there would be a large
crossover between amateur radio and this list.
I got involved with electronics and radio before computers were
affordable for personal work.
I got my novice ticket in 1972, but let it languish and sold off my
Heathkit equipment over the years.
With the removal of Morse code requirements and web sites like
www.qrz.com I got my General class ticket a little over a year
ago. I only had to study up on the some recent stuff and dust off
some old neurons.
Dave. W1MMX
On Sun, Jan 18, 2009 at 6:28 PM, Mark Tapley <mtapley at swri.edu> wrote:
> Or hook one or more of our classic systems up to one, that would be even
> cooler.
Lots of packet radio gear out there for older computers. I've got a
PackRat-64 (Commodore) interface I'd like to set up some day. And of
course, any device with a serial port and comms software can interface
to a TNC box.
This reminds me of a very common salesman's pitch when I'm caught
eyeing any old computer at hamfests: "Great For Packet!"
-j
-- "Chuck Guzis" <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
>The ones in the USA are supposed to be at least thermally fused--but
>most are made in China, so who knows what's really inside. Now SMPSU
>wall-warts with fused-together cases are becoming more commonplace.
>Shame that--they could be profitably repaired.
>
>Anyway, sorry for the topic drift. Good to see that someone else
>hates the bloody things.
>
>Cheers,
>Chuck
I relish in 'repairing' these by slamming them into the concrete
lab floor, beating them into submission until I can get the case
to split.
Then I replace the fuse (if blown and so equipped), or replace
the rectifiers or filter cap, or whatever. Then I tape the
rascal back together. If the xfmr winding is open, out it
goes.
I probably should try to repair the ones that have switchers in
'em, but I have neither the time nor the expertise . . . (sigh).
____________________________________________________________
Shop & save on a huge selection of brand name clogs. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw3K5IoDvLZxgzGLt57UrQKHQ4T…
I just listed a bunch of stuff over at the Vintage Computer and Gaming
Marketplace including a pair of IMSAI 8080 systems, an Ithaca Intersystems
DPS-1, a dual 8" drive chassis and a few other odds and ends.
Hopefully some folks are interested.
-----
Erik Klein
www.vintage-computer.comwww.vintage-computer.com/vcforum - The Vintage Computer Forums
marketplace.vintage-computer.com - The Vintage Computer and Gaming
Marketplace
At 23:44 -0600 1/16/09, Jason wrote:
>KB9SXO here. Got my Tech license years ago at one of those
>cram-session deals through the local HAM club.
Same here. Years back, I spent weeks trying to learn Morse code for a
technician. My wife, listening over my shoulder while she read,
picked it up far better than I did. On the way to the exam, I taught
her V = I R and a few key frequencies, and urged her to take the test
too. Fortunately for me, the very kind and encouraging Elmers running
the test urged her to give it a shot as well.
She copied completely clean Morse Code, I squeaked by with about 72%.
I aced the technical stuff, she squeaked by with about 72%. We got
successive call signs, KB6UOH and KB6UOI. (How romantic, eh? Together
we make a good ham.)
Someday we really ought to get a radio or two and *exercise* those privileges.
Or hook one or more of our classic systems up to one, that would be
even cooler.
Maybe even on-topic.
73 de KB6UOH
--
- Mark 210-379-4635
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Large Asteroids headed toward planets
inhabited by beings that don't have
technology adequate to stop them:
Think of it as Evolution in Fast-Forward.
Greetings all,
I'm afraid I don't follow this list much any more so I don't know if
anything on the following list will be of any interest to anybody.
Since I can't bear to throw it away (sorry: recycle it...) without at
least asking, here I am. It is all small stuff and all I want in
return is however much it costs for me to ship it to the recipient.
Without further ado:
1 x Monitor Miser for SUN keyboard/mouse (gizmo that controls monitor
AC power based on user activity)
2 x SUN DIN -> audio in/out cables (probably Sparc LX related)
2 x Female 13W3 - Male VGA adapter cables (approx. 18" long)
1 x 13W3 M - M (basic SUN monitor cable)
1 x VGA M - F (extension) cable (approx. 6' long)
1 x M VGA - RGBVH BNC cable
2 x M 13W3 - RGB + sync (?) BNC cables (probably for older SUN monitors)
1 x 13W3 M - F (extension) cable
1 x F 13W3 -> M VGA adapter plug (may be from SGI)
1 x Apple MIDI adapter (really ancient)
1 x SparcBook 3 AC adapter
1 x SparcBook 3 SCSI adapter cable
1 x Sparc 10 external speaker
1 x SUN power supply (PN 300-1038-04 - Sparc 2?)
1 x SUN power supply (PN 300-1055-05 - Sparc 2?)
1 x Sony power supply (PN 68-1125-41, Model APS 24)
1 x SUN optical mouse pad (402105-003A)
- assorted narrow SCSI cables and terminators, various lengths
various connectors.
Go ahead and ask me.
1 x SUN Fast Ethernet (100-baseTX) SBUS card (PN 501-2702919...)
2 x SUN CG3 (8-bit framebuffer, 13W3 connector) SBUS cards (PN
501-1718048449)
1 x SUN TGX1 (8-bit framebuffer, 13W3 connector) SBUS card (PN
501-2325207994)
1 x SUN SunSwift (Fast/Wide SCSI + 100-baseTX) SBUS card (PN
501-2739046491)
1 x Magma SP16 (16 port RS232 serial) SBUS card
1 x SUN X3652A Ultra 2 Creator (3D 24-bit frambebuffer, 13W3 connector)
4 x SUN X7003A memory (64M each, 2 cards/"kit")
1 x SUN X7002A memory (64M; just the one card)
4 x SUN X7001A memory (32M each, 2 cards/"kit")
All this stuff is salvaged and was working fine when it came out, but
that was quite a few years back: caveat receptor.
I also have a SunBlade 100 system (1G memory, 2 x 120G IDE, type-5 USB
keyboard, USB mouse) but I'd actually like to see if I can squeeze a
few bucks out of that. Offers are welcome.
Please contact me off-list with questions and requests. In another
couple of weeks it will be out of here one way or another.
Many thanks for your attention-span.
Bob Bramwell | The birds have vanished into the sky,
| and now the last cloud drains away.
+1 902 531 2289 | We sit together, the mountain and I,
| until only the mountain remains.
| - Li Po, 8th Century Chinese poet
-- Rick Murphy <rick at rickmurphy.net> wrote:
>At 02:31 AM 1/17/2009, jeff.kaneko at juno.com wrote:
>
>>Wow, an EXTRA w/o the obligatory vanity call (or at least the
>>usual 1x2 or 2X1). That's pretty rare . . . .
>
>What's wrong with vanity calls? :-)
>73 de K1MU
> -Rick
Oh, I have nothing against vanities, it's just that
they're so commonplace now, it's almost unusual
to see an extra w/o one. Although I did find that
2x1 calls took a little getting used to . . . .
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-- Marvin Johnston <marvin at west.net> wrote:
>> Wonder who else?
>
>I'm VERY active with ARDF (Amateur Radio Direction Finding.) Check >out the
>www.homingin.com So. Cal results and the US ARDF team to give you an >idea. I got
>my extra only so I didn't have to worry about the frequency when >putting on 80M
>hunts.
>
>Marvin, KE6HTS
Wow, an EXTRA w/o the obligatory vanity call (or at least the
usual 1x2 or 2X1). That's pretty rare . . . .
____________________________________________________________
Want to put your personal touch on your home? Click for home improvement ideas and tips.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2eRIRLNOMG999LUr8KQHga28k…
Someone in Land O' Lakes, Florida wants to give me a MacTV, which I really
want, but they want to utilize the packing services of the UPS store,
which usually sucks and is overpriced.
Is someone in that area who would be willing to go retrieve the item, pack
it to my specs, and send it off? I'll be paying for packing materials and
the shipping of course, and will owe a big favor (or perhaps trade for
something that you may want).
Please contact me directly if you can help.
Thanks!
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
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